LED

Not familiar with those products. A good led lamp should be a minimum: Diodes Samsung LM301 diodes -- doesn't matter if H or B type.. same thing, different label. these are you base diodes and will be ~95% of them. "Some" 660nm red diode -- best is cree xp-g3 photoboost red. Osram is what you'lllikely see. It's less efficient but only ~5% of diodes, so minimizes corner cut. Drivers - meanwell is a baseline. if equally efficient or better and ~7 year warranty, you can consider those drivers an equivalent. One last math check... Divide real Watts / number of diodes. If this value is significantly above 0.40 watts per diode, it is likely lying about efficacy of any value nearing ~2.8umol/J. This is a common tactic out there... list the efficacy at a lower current, but drive the diodes twice as hard... that's a trash lamp that does that.. and a trash-d^ck company that takes advantage of people's lack of specialty knowledge. You don't need to know v x a = watts to live a life. you don't need to be able to read a LED diode specifications, but to avoid the cheats in this context, you do. This is teaching someone how to fish, not giving them a stinky fish. This info will allow you to pick out a high quality light. lxwxh? 120 x 80 x 60? so 1.2 x .8 = ~1m^2... you want a minimum of 500umol/s per meter^2. If you want to max out with ambient CO2 levels, ~800-900umol/s per meter^2 is the goal. Going ~20-25% over this value allows you to maintain exact same intensity and coverage for ~60,000 hours of use (this assumes <=0.40watts per diode). As the diodes dim to 80% intensity slowly over 60,000 hours, you can slowly increase power and maintain same exact quality of coverage for 7+ years.