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Nutrients for Auto flower plants

swed203
swed203started grow question 3 years ago
Do you recommend adding soil as opposed to adding nutrients for auto flowers? I've had issues with nutrient burn even when halving the recommend feeding schedule. I tried this grow without nutrients.
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Week 6
Feeding. Schedule
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Coopmc
Coopmcanswered grow question 3 years ago
This article is great on nutrient lockot and how to fix and prevent it https://growace.com/blogs/learning-center/how-to-fix-nutrient-lockout
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Roberts
Robertsanswered grow question 3 years ago
Provide potassium and phosphorus light nitrogen. Plant wants that for bud development right now. If you do not get proper run off nutes will build up in soil causing burn and ph issues.
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 3 years ago
If you talking about top dressing your plants for nutrients with dry amendments or super soil vs using liquid feed you can do that. I feel if its just more soil it will not be fortified enough for the plant to sustain its self till end of flower. Will need some other things in there like Dr.Earth/GaiaGreen Soil is normally only good for transplanting and you should not transplant an auto. just not enough feed in it. Dry Amendments will need a top up every 2.5-3 weeks and take a few days to kick in. If you still have liquid feed kicking aorund this is a handy tool. Use this feeding chart for a guideline of how much you should be feeding. It used EC/PPM https://www.autoflower.net/forums/threads/med-man-method-feeding-chart-ppm-ec.47856/ Good Luck.
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603grower
603groweranswered grow question 3 years ago
I would not recommend transplanting if your already in flower. I found when feeding autos use half of what they recommend. I’ll even start out at 1/4 strength and work my way up.
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NobodysBuds
NobodysBudsanswered grow question 3 years ago
you could, i guess.. Many "pot" brand fertilizers make suggestions that are bat shit crazy high. You are in soil, so it is as much about art as math... you have to be familiar with how quickly the soil loses what it comes with and slowly increase concentration to compensate over time. I wouldn't feed above 650-750ppm, but i'm a soilless grower.. i need to give everything immediately and at all times. it is more of an on-demand feed. ymmv with soil. who knows what balance comes in that soil to start... it may need more of this or that before other things. This is where familiarity will build up, but before then you have to wing it. i'd take notes at which point you saw symtpoms and after if you figure it out, make a plan of action for "next" run and see how that works out... as well as what you did throughout relative to fertilizers - frequency and concentration of what was fed -- per element as well as total being important. as a baseline, check out a ppm table i have in virtually any of my diaries. Between soil and fertilizer the ratios should add up in similar ways -- you may need less or more in your fertilizer due to what is in the soil already... when soil leeched out completely, you'll want your fertilizer 650-750ppm in similar proportions to what i use in a soilless all the time. Early on in soil, 'some' runoff ensures you got the whole thing wet with no dry pockets building up dried solutes (you don't want much, cause that's just pissing away the nutes that came with the soil). Later on, if it leeches out and you are giving full complement of nutes, try getting at least 10% runoff to maintain equilibrium (this isn't necessary in super soil or if you do decide to just keep transplanting into fortified soil as you go). do make sure the whole thing gets wet, though. dry pockets are bad for both methods of growing. they can cause problems months down the line. despite the impedance that exists out there, this is about math and science even in a organice or living soil context... just more guessing going on. but, if you conceptualize it properly, the cause and effect of what you should do when a problem arises will be clearer.
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Coopmc
Coopmcanswered grow question 3 years ago
I found this article packed full of good info https://dutch-passion.blog/autoflower-cannabis-plants-nutrient-feeding-schedule/
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 3 years ago
Auto flowers are a bit more sensitive to nutrient burn. You Should be using a TDS pen to calculate the strength of feed you are giving them. Most feeding schedules are designed for Photoperiod plants that can take a lot more feed in their system. This link is a good reference point for where to aim on feeding strenghts. https://www.autoflower.net/forums/threads/med-man-method-feeding-chart-ppm-ec.47856/ Its good to note that you will still need to keep an eye on your plants, and if they are more hungry or less then adjust from there. Some autos are heavy feeders and some are not compared to each other, over all less then photoperiods. Best Of Luck and Happy Growing!
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