Lockout during transition

I think you can then draw the conclusion that growing on Cocos is not possible for you. Because you have this many times... At Cocos you don't have to do perlite... And knowing that Cocos has no ec value and you have to measure it yourself and feed it in the right way. This doesn't bother you every time so I advise you to do it differently... Or growing soil on potting soil a bit forgiving. is that not an option. Then do a hydro setup success

This is from switching to bloom nutrients too early, cannabis still needs adequate nitrogen in early flower. What I have been doing for close to 30 years is to continue with grow nutrients until there are small "budlets"/tufts of white pistils, then changing to half grow and half bloom for the next 2 weeks and only then finally changing to straight bloom nutrients through until maturity. This seems to produce the biggest blooms on plants that don't exhaust themselves and end up a sickly yellow come harvest time. It took me almost 10 years to work this out in the first place! (yes, been growing for close to 40 years!) They also seem hungry for P and K, something that is easily solved by adding/upping dosage with a P/K booster. Also, those are some funky genetics on your Mountain Top Mint plant!!!!!

forgot to say, check out any of my diaries.. i hae a ppm screenshot... i actually use closer to 720ppm... but the proportions are the same. i mostly change concentration across the board relative to VPD + plant observations (mainlny the latter as i don't have anything mapped out,... yet, but i noticed a corelation last winter... first run is much higher VPD, and 2nd run needed a 10-15% boost for a reason i couldn't figure out.. .but 99% sure it was the VPD difference in hindsight as other environmental variables were mostly static) it is worth it to know these things in a soilless or hydro grow. in a short time, if done right, you'll never be confused or lack confidence as to how to react to what you see... and rarely see any problems if you continue to hone it. if you want to boost p/k i'd avoid the marketing bullshit. get some concentrated 0-45-0 and 0-0-54 or similar and do the math... add "ppm" learn ppm levels. if you adjust based on this instead of unequivalent npk ratios due to differing concentration doses, things becomes much clearer. plus, you need to know more than just a weighted average of NPK... secondary nutes are just as important. Ca / Mg / S .. i'm sure "primary/secondary" have some connotation to the biology that takes place later, but from our point of view, one is not more important than the other.. they are equivalents... not primary/secondary concerns.

despite a lot of marketing that says otherwise, the plant doesn't need drastically different ratios of nutes for flower. What is below is relative... pH, VPD and all sort of other relativistic factors could make it slightly different for your garden, but the overall gist will be the same. This is a soilless context. whether in sphagnum peat or coco it matters not unless the coco is poorly fabricated and full of Na and a fucked up ratio of cations that will fuck up the balance of anything you pour into it... coco is dangerous if poorly processed. you'd know if you got a bad batch early on... In my experience.... 200-210ppm of K is on the edge of toxicity in both vege and flower phase. I feed up near top from early on to harvest.. if i "boost" it's simply going to burn the shit out of my canopy. 50-60 ppm is up near high end of P. If i go over, i get symptoms. Again, i feed this from seed to harvest (maybe not "seed" but you get the idea) so, if i "boost" or change my P/K i get a fucked up plant... how does that help? I think the ppl who see benefits fro boosting P/K could probably "boost" it earlier. it's less of a boost and more about finally feeding what it can handle. all isee with ppl 'boosting' things is a bunch of lockout and damaged canopies... which can't photosynthesize as effectively when damaged. The sugars produced from photosynthesis and the carbon it takes in from atmospher are 90% of what is needed, if not more... so reducing those 2 factors in any way is a big No-No for me. it would be very very difficult to overcome the costs. use a Nutrient ppm calculator... learn what you feed in a more resolved way. you may see the sae things i do... that there's a lot of unresolved bullshit out there. misguided suggestions etc etc... lots of confiration bias and selective memories protecting fragile egos. i would drop nitroget a bit in flower phase, but not immediately after 12/12 flip. i'd wait for "vege" growth to cease. (vege growth = elongation of stems and leaf production) Taper it off as that transition ends, but only 5-10%... nothng drastic. this one (N) seems a bit more erratic plant to plant. some easily handle 130-140ppm early to harvest... others i need to drop to 120-ish ppm N to avoid overly lush leaves slowly building up toxic levels of N the ratios and concentrations i use work for 90-95% of plants i grow. rarely do i need multiple mixes for multiple strains. "boosting" p/k rarely happens because i am already up near the ceiling based on plant behaviour. I find VPD impacts what i want to feed more than other things... i change my concentrations based on VPD. if it's unusually high, i will reduce concentration because a lot more water if flowing through plant wiht increased transpiration... this way it receives roughly the same grams of variousl needed molecules as opposed to more than normal. plant cells are made of very similar things... we could look at how this varies and make a much better assumption about what needs to change for flower.. but blindly doing so is suspect,,, it's ppl making assumptions beyond their senses capabilities... like saying "flushing reduces minerals in flowers" which is incontrovertibly untrue. ppl were super confident about it without ever testing it... just made the assumption first and ppl followed. this is the same damn context... it's a good candidate for being untrue or otherwise poorly resolved because no effort was made beyond some superficial, low-res observances of unsuitable sample sizes and numerous inconsistencies in methodology.

Looks like your cutting out the micro for flower. This contains all of your micro nutrients and nitrogen. Which is why your getting the yellowing, not enough nitrogen. Feed chart says you should be cutting out the grow during flower. Which is how the nitrogen is being cut back.