LED vs HPS - heat output

High Greenbean420, With a proper LED like Mars Hydro TS3000 you temperatures will go down a few degrees. Next to that they are way more efficient. So more Lumen with the same watt input. Happy Growing! 😋

Marshydro use mostly Epistar LED chips, but in some of their higher quality models they also utilize Cree or Osram LED chips and now bridgelux

As a final answer, I researched HPS vs LED upgrade for a fellow grower with specific needs recently, in depth. Get an airflow box for the HPS and decent extraction worked out CFM from grow space and factors for now. If you upgrade after that save and get the FCE6500 and 4x4 space. I don't care how many fractions difference LED is between bridgelux and Samsung or how many more hours it will last, it is awesome light, much brighter coverage claims to be 1200 HPS equal, with a new led configuration that works. Hope we helped, I have a TS3000 with less than a week on the clock I'd sell cheaper than Mars 😉

@NobodysBuds, "just looked at the TS3000 -- i'm not familiar with the bridgelux chip, but based on pricepoint there's very little likelihood it is a true 2.7umol/J light... " I can tell you it's not! I can tell you FCE6500 Bridgelux IS close to 2.7umol/J indeed,very impressive light. They do say " close to 2.7umol/J " in their specs.

the SP 3000, SP 6500 lights, and FC series use Samsung chips which are well-received. So it’s shocking to know that Mars Hydro stops using Samsung chips in their new featured product - FC-E series grow lights. Wanna know why?🚬 Initially, we considered using other brands because Samsung wasn’t able to provide enough chips last year and we had to find alternatives. After searching and testing a sea of LEDs, it’s a big surprise to see a comparable chip brand emerges - BridgeLux, an American brand. According to our professional test data, the maximum brightness of the Bridgelux chip can reach the same level as Samsung's, and with a lower price! This is to say, Mars Hydro is now able to provide budget growers with an LED grow light that has equivalent efficiency to lights using Samsung, and with the lower cost! Isn’t it fantastic? Consequently, Mars Hydro FC-E series lights released! FC-E grow lights adopt a new removable bar design, which is very flexible to adjust the bar position according to your plants' space and arrangement, making the light fully utilized on the plants without waste. In addition, FC-E has a more uniform distribution, PPE is up to 2.7μmol/j, ensuring that the whole plants can grow evenly and produce the same good bud on the edges. In a word, the FC-E series light is recommended to beginners or limited budget growers who also require premium results. However, Samsung also has its unique advantages, well-known and high efficiency. If you prefer Samsung chips and have enough budget, welcome to choose our FC or SP series

HPS has better light dispersal, most led lights will be hot by the time you reach height for late flower. I have a ts3000, decent enough light, like grannie correctly says, Mars have removable driver for in tent use which is a big win on heat. I have Mars FCE6500 bar type in tent also which is nice in a 4x4 sog but runs about 31-32c at late flower 100% power. It's all about how you deal with it. Bar system is better.

it varies.. depends on efficacy... it is proportional to it... so even if you don't understand the metric, you can know if something generates 50% more heat if the number is 2/3rd the efficacy of another light. the key is joules per second (heat production) and watts per second are 1:1 convertible. so when you see "2umol/J" that means it is creating 2 umol of photons per 1 joule of heat. hps are 1.8-2.0umol/J ? and, that's a big maybe if theyr hit 2.0... not sure. really shitty LED are probably slightly better than that. 2.0-2.4 ish range... not helpin much here, but probably save a couple degrees. Mid ange will be 2.4-2.5ish... and the better LED will be up around 2.7-2.9. Both of these will provide a more noticable difference... again it's all proportional to that umol/J metric. cheap lights lie like crazy on their spec sheets, so assume they are bat shit crazy. mid range led lie a little bit - hit or miss and sometimes bat shit crazy too - and, the high end stuff might fudge on rounding a bit in some cases. bottom line they all fib a bit, but the cheap and midrange stuff you really gotta check their math. high end mas lights are spot on.. midange and lower are iffy. I just looked at the TS3000 -- i'm not familiar with the bridgelux chip, but based on pricepoint there's very little likelihood it is a true 2.7umol/J light... not at 0. i'd want to look into longevity curve too... spot check some things before choosing a lesser diode for 300+ USD. https://www.mars-hydro.com/ts-3000-led-grow-light It's probably 2.4-2.5ish... they do have a new 1w diode out that is fairly comparable to the LM301b or lm301h by samsung... i don't think it's in this model though at this price. if you can get that info from mars, go check out real spec sheet for that diode on bridgelux's website (or samsung to verify the things i said above for that matter - they don't lie) https://www.mars-hydro.com/fc-4800-samsung-lm301b-commercial-led-grow-light -- exampple of price range for a 480w light with high efficacy. you could probably find something high-end on alibaba for 300-400 delivered.. maybe, even less. just in case you read some nonsense.. there is no difference between lm301b and lm301h ... lm301d is however up to 10-15% less efficient diode (top bin option comparison, but don't recall an overlap.. gets reall close comparing best to worst option though relative to these high-quality chip models) my 2 cents.. save another 200 and get the fc 4800. it'll do way better with photoperiods... could even cove a bit more than 4x4 for autoflowers... (due to bar style, you get more spread of light off one axis than the other.. so 4'x5' or 4.5' x 5' ... may even need to dim 10-15% initially.. which is beneficial. as you lose some intensity over 50,000 hours or more, you can simply dim it less over time and maintain same level of coverage as day 1. over time all LED generate more heat relative to photons as it dims... "L90" is generally used - 90% of original intensity - to give the estimated hous of life. You only hit that estimate if running the diodes at 0.25w per diode and likely a gentle breeze needed too. So a 2.8umol/j after 50,000 hous is down to 2.52umol/J but that will take 5-7 years of constant use. that is another thing most spec sheets lie their asses off about... longevity... they base it on best case scenario even if they are over-driving the chips relative to the spec sheet info they are using.

Mars-Hydro, I believe, has the option of placing the driver outside the tent to enable you to reduce the heat inside... additionally, LEDs produce more light and less heat than HPS so you gain there as well... and finally, LEDs are easier on your electric bill - so I'd say that's a win-win-win! Good luck!