Blue dream Auto's a lil help..

Cada planta si no es de clon son seres vivos independientes, unas comen mas, una puede que no haya tolerado esos niveles de comida, que ec estas abonando

Every seed is a unique, individual organic being, marching to the beat of its own drum. As you can see, the yellowing one is more advanced in flowering and has needed extra feeding compared to the other. You need to feed plants to their individual requirements, not just give everything the same thing and think it will be fine for eveyone. The yellowing one might benefit from the addition of a P/K booster at this stage of flowering.

B4 anything, ensure pH is solid and fairly consistent where you want it. in my experience, a good mnute mix (soilless contexxt) works for nearly all plants.. 90-95% will be happy with 1 mix. I've got 6 strains and "many" plants, one looks odd, but i'm pretty sure it's a genetic defect behind it. Some others may need a little more N than others. That's what i find the be the biggest fickleness in regard to nutrient needs. just to give an anecdote that shows the common thought that tehy want drastically different things is not universally experienced. I think it's just a matter of imprecise concoctions of nutes.. i.e. ratio relative pH. How about the environment? The other side of that multi-faceted coin is rate of use in the plant which is impacted by your environment. so it could be taking up nutes faster or slower than before (primarly VPD impacting that, which is relative to Temps/RH%). There may be different levels of CO2 in atmosphere. while i do see what you are saying, at least this is a minimal issue at moment and you can be patient with it. This is mostly picture 5 of 6 from diary? the mottlinng? up top is concerning. anyway, some tip burn, a little interveinal chlorosis on some mid level leaves.... You just started boosting P/K i assume with the bloom feed the last 2 weeks... you might be licking something out. what are watering habits? i see you are not purely soilless... so i assume you treat it a bit more like a soil grow with the worm castings and not wanting to waste those amendments. So water and wait for top layer to dry a bit (less with coco than soil.. maybe at color change or just pre-empting it). If weight of pot is same each time, it'll take same volume to get it all wet again with minimal runoff. if that deviates at all from what you are doing, give it 7-10 days with better irrigation habits and see if that mottling goes away. A dry pocket can cause oddities... it takes a while for the problem to become apparent, so the cause and the effect are split by a lot of time that makes it difficult to attribute at times. always make sure entire pot gets saturated whether adding water-only or fertilized water. minimal runoff in soil.. if you dial it in perfectly with just a sopping bottom of pot, that's good too. if you are treating it like soilless, you want a religious 10% runoff or more everytime you irrigate as that is how it maintains a safe equilibrium in substrate seed to harvest (may be slightly different at various life stages but should get the concept in a general way). this would leech off what your worm castings add though... would still work, just diminish faster.

Only from clones can you expect to get similar results buddy by using the same methods. All phenos (seeds) are different. Some require more than others. Might also be your mix on the other is heavier. (Pick it up, and you'll know, if so it means less o2/co2 are getting to your roots when your sub dries out. (This can change factors by a lot) But, my guess, if its not that Its just different phenos pal. 2 dif ladies never like to be treated the same. All are individual.. and need dif things at dif stages. Good luck.