Buds fattening and quality with light or darkness?

I' ve found this video on the tube, https://youtu.be/dQlOJ1zvoPI The author compares three photoperiods on lattuce, at same DLI: 12/12, 16/8, 20/4 And the result is that 20/4 have in absolute the best production, but 12/12 have relative best quantity (wet weight product) at the best cost, but even at the best quality (low burnings). 18/6 isnt a lot different than 12/12. The photoperiod of this kind of lettuce is similar to cannabis. Anyway, It 'd be nice to see a a specific comparison for autofowering with 20/4 and 12/12 photoperiod. I bet that 12/12 is not 9nly the more convenient, but not so far lower in productivity than 20/4. Maybe the less is more

Your plants consume sugars a lot at night, I get great results with autos on 12-14

fuck yeah, @m0use! "20/4 for best prodcution" with no context is just something said by a person that doesn't actuallyknow what they are talking about. photons per second, which umol/s of PAR is, is a rate. How long that rate is applied matters. There's a limit to how much energy a plant can receive in 24 hours. it is relative to several other factors - Temp, RH, ambient CO2 (these three all local to each leaf's surface), and delivering a proper ratio and concentration of dissolved minerals (npk et al) relative to rate of growth. All of this is compartmentalized across leaf surface of entire plant. areas that get too much will show light damage over time. Through trial and error you can find this "max" point. unless you tightly control everything, it will fluctuate a bit. Changing hours of use will have a proportional effect on resulting DLI. Dimmer will be dependent on how the equipment works at various loads but can be thought of as mostly proportional. Distance from canopy can also be used to reduce DLI in hotspots and spread it out more evenly in general. Distance probably wastes the most watts, but in common sense contexts it's arguably worth it. Few more photons miss plant and or absorbed by walls with increased number of reflections -- which also give wider angles of attack on lower areas of plant, which is why it can be worth it as opposed to diming or adjusting hours of use. i use 16/8 to better slot into the 12 hours of reduced electricity costs at night during the plant's vege phase. DLI is what matters. trial and error to push that boundary. take notes on power and distance from canopy.. even temp/rh is useful info to recognize / avoid any patterns of light damage.