What do you recommend

@Creepy_Steve you should write all your experience up in a blog for permanent reference. Very helpful!

Cal mag for coco, and a bloom booster. Ph up and down. To answer you questions without a ton on nonsense

masterblend is another the ones that don't put the trace elements in teh calcium nitrate are the non-predatory companies. it's a lame trick to force you to buy their product rather than a generic calcium nitrate that is potentially half the price and atom for atom the same exact thing....

southern ag, athena or floraflex pro line, and others all have a distinctly similar ratio and it is all based on teh same science. the fact athena or floraflex charges 10x more than others should be a huge red flag to avoid such a predatory company. the ingredients of such fertilizers are ubiquitous... there is not premium pricing needed. that's retarded.

all of the products available use ubiquitous ingredients... this doesn't mean all work well, but they are definitely made of the same stuff and there is no quality difference in ingredients. with soil nutes or "organic" nonsense, it is much less precise as far as what is in it and the consistency in which it comes. so the quality is found in the process of putting the product together. with soilless/hydro nutes it is precise and accurate on the guaranteed analysis labels -- some non hydro/soilless fertilizer comes with these sorts of dependable labels, too. the plants need roughly the same stuff in vege as bloom. you can see this based on people who "boost" pk only to end up with a burnt canopy and all sorts of health issues visible on the leaves by the 3rd to 5th week and beyond in bloom. this is clearly overfeeding if the plant cannot use what you are providing fast enough. Also, in five years of tracking individual ppm of every molecule i feed (n/p/k/ca/mg/s + trace) i can tell you with good confdience that the formula does not need to change much to have a healthy plant from seed to harvest. that means it was fed at a proper rate relative to growth (use of said buildingn blocks and in proper ratio to each other). the plant will show tox signs above 200ppm of K in vege or bloom. i highly doubt teh plant uses any significantly higher amount of K in flower.. this is likely an urban myth for marijuana. this value may vary because of local ph and ratio of nutes used - there are several antagonistic and sympathetic relationships involved with the nutes... if oyu raise one you sometimes ahve to raise or lower others to balance it out properly. Mulder's chart displays these relationships. Studies have been done on this stuff and using qualities of fertile soil on earth as a starting point. these ratios are seen in multiple products, like jacks 321. follow the science and not some person growing in their basement. (jack's, souther AG and even soem of the grossly overpriced marijuana brands have this hydro-soilless ratio fertilizer - they are all so similar it's hard to miss. whether the base is 5-12-26 or 5-13-25 etc.. the weighted average of the products used is close to 7-7-15. at a 1.3-1.5EC total concentration, you'll get: 120+ N (maybe as high as 140 for some strains) 50+ P 190+ K 100+ Ca 75+ Mg 100+ S -- but i find it's best to keep this one under 110, and Ca and Mg can be a bit higher... always observe and react to fine-tune such things. local environmental variables will be relevant. N is probably the most likely thing you need to adjust, and unlike common belief based on anecdotal onsense, you absolutely need N in bloom. it is part of dna, for fuck's sake, lol.. cellular growth cannot happen efficiently without it or the others in a proper ratio and overall concentration. pH around 6. gives more leeway than the common 5.5 low end... 5.5 is a bad idea.you can make it work but you have to screw with concentrations of various things to avoid deficiencies in a few molecules. so you feed more and waste more at 5.5.