Anyone use Farm Lite bar grow light?

I have the 6 bar in a 2x 4 and it thrives....I'm still new to growing but I have had very successful harvests so far! I read it doesn't have uv or infrared or something like that but I have had no issues.

You're welcome! ^^ Basically: The DLI is the amount of light you plant [should] receive in one day. In a nutshell, you should give your plants the same DLI during the vegetative and the blooming phases (by adjusting PPFD/dimming the driver). The PPFD is the instantaneous luminous flux in the visible spectrum emitted by a fixture in a specific area, measured in μmol/s.m² (the ePPFD also includes non visible lights like UV and IR). They are the numbers you see on coverage maps (don't trust the brand, trust testers/reviewers' Apogee). The Watts are just electrical power draw from the wall. Some growers are used to less efficient gas-discharge lamps (like HID) and need to see an equivalence (sometimes called "radiant flux"). So if you see 2 values in Watts for the same LED fixture, the lower one is generally the real number, the bigger is an estimated equivalence (but generally exaggerated, especially on amazon). The coverage is important too. The fixture should physically cover almost all your grow space. Be careful with "Quantum Boards" as they can retain heat (bar style powah). Also, you may still see a spectrum map, but don't bother: today we used a mix of cold and warm white with a bit of 660nm red, sometimes also 730nm "far-red" and that's cover the needs of the plant for a personal grow ("blurples" was heresy). It can be a bit technical, but you can learn more here: https://www.cocoforcannabis.com/grow-light-guide/ This website also have calculators and some reviews. But to give quick numbers, with this kind of design, actually 300W is for <= 3×3ft ; 480W for 4×4ft and 730W for a 5×5ft area (depending of the design and efficiency). Bigger models are generally for greenhouses or to use CO₂ (to increase max DLI). Your 200W fixture should be okay for the vegetative phase on a 3×3ft grow space max. But for the blooming phase, 300W should give you better results.

Oh wow thank you for all the answers. I definitely haven’t bought it but I’m only just beginning to understand lighting frankly and I figured it is probably too good to be true at that price point for a bar light considering how much others cost. What confuses me the most is the watts vs ppfd or DLI. For example, my Vivosun gives me great DLI and PPFD on 4 plants that are still pretty small but it’s only 200 watts so I have no idea if I need more watts and how I would keep from giving the plants too much light if so. I have a hard time understanding plants caring how much electricity I use and pay for at the end of the day. I don’t see many on here obsessed over wattage but when I first started looking into growing I read a lot on how important it is to have enough watts and I think it’s really confused me frankly. To me the Vivosun is a good light but I know many who think Mars and Spider are better. I’m leaning towards adding another light and have been looking into Vipraspectra as they seem to have good lights as well as great deals on many of them. I would love to get a bar light but I don’t have that kind of funds. I’m holding off on adding another light until I better understand and get a feel for how the one I have does. I’m learning a lot from seasoned growers on here which I appreciate.

.7mA? 🤣

if the diode count is 1056 for the 240w, that's going to be okay, fwiw. the math is good. .22w per diode is proportionately lower than the ".25 / diode for the lm301 which is tested at .7ma. .65 / .7 * .25= .23 watts per diode.. they are just under that on the 240w if the do in fact have 1056 diodes. again, their par maps are probably wrong. compare this light to any similar dimension light and 240w of decent efficacy and it'll cover similar space. this would be okay for a 3x3 space on a 12 hour cycle (maybe 8-8.5 sq ft to max out DLI in ambient co2 conditions, can grow great weed without maxing out DLI, just a point of reference). could cover 150% more with autos on an 18h light cycle. again, depends on the diode count. if 1056 is accurate for the 240 and it is the "lm281+pro..." bcause the other variants are 75% as efficient and all of this goes out the window, lol. it's actually decent on paper. their par map is probably not accurate, though. This is the tough part when buying from an unknown quantity... if the parts are true and the diode count is true, it's probably an okay light, suprisingly.

probably not great, but doesn't mean it can't work or grow decent weed -- decent weed is more about genetics. efficacy is what is usually lacking in the less expensive lights. it runs hotter and uses more electricy per photon produced. i used some really shitty cob led lights first few grows. they gave over 1g/watt despite the shit efficacy. Quality is dictated by genetics as long as some minimum amount of light is given for decently formed buds. (not airy/larfy) Samsung LM281B+Pro -- not familiar with this new variant. if accurately labeled looks like decent efficacy. if a normal 218 diode it's barely more efficient than an HPS bulp. now, this diode, the better one, is listed ast operating at .65ma. if more amperage is used, you lose the efficacy and lifespan while creating more heat per second. i don't see any details on number of diodes, but if you get that value you can work with the watts and deduce how hard they are driving the diodes... this is what separates a good light from a shitty one - assuming decent heatsink and no faulty wiring etc.. common sense applied. This is where they can lie and hid important details. Based on price, i'd lean toward something shady here, but i dont have the info to bakc that up -- which is also a bad sign. i don't think their (farm lite) PAR maps are accurate on amazon, either. if you can properly assess a no-name brand, you still have to be concerned about any lies about parts used. Some of these sources lack integrity and it permeates their existence. in a smaller grow the lower efficacy isn't a huge extra cost -- if you are paying 50/month you could probably pay 2/3rds of that with a high efficacy light and produce same amount of photons per second. amounts to a few dollars, but the larger area you cover the more important this becomes... 33% off of 200/mo is more noticeable.

Same problem with the SZHLUX PT5000: too few LEDs (and fancy numbers). The efficiency of LED is easy to understand: the more electrical energy you put into it, the more it will heat up (joule losses) and the lower the efficiency. This means that the money you save by buying a fixture with fewer LEDs will be lost on electricity consumption. By the way, most of the time, the indicated efficiency is generally from the LED data sheet itself, at lower intensity for best efficiency, and rarely corresponds to the actual output of the whole lamp. That's why MH or other serious brands are more expensive: you buy more LEDs, running at lower intensity, for a better efficiency and more lifetime.

If your looking for a light that brings bang for the buck, I'm rather impressed with the SZHLUX PT5000 I just got. Granted I haven't flowered under it yet but I think it's gonna do the job well.

1056× LM281B ? 240W for a 4×4ft space? A better coverage in a 4×4ft space than a Mars Hydro FC-E3000 (300W) in a 3×3ft space? lol. At this point I don't need to run math, just look at the LED density of both fixtures: https://www.mars-hydro.com/media/catalog/product/cache/707491cb15beee590eb40fd1503b42bf/m/a/mars_hydro_fc-e3000_led_grow_light_1.jpg Save your money, don't buy random brands on amazon.