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Cloning- When cloning what ph and ppm do you usually stay at or does every plant have different likes?

Grammo216
Grammo216started grow question 6 months ago
I have been trying different levels and seeing the changes. 3 clones just burned at 5.5 ph 89 ppm. But those same 3 were fine at a higher ppm with a ph of 6. Should I lower ppm and keep at 5.5 or back to 6? They haven’t rooted in 7 days. And what water level do you keep on them?
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Setup. Clones
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001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question 6 months ago
humidity and low light.. that's 90% of it. I've heard lower pH stimulates faster root growth. I've never had great luck at lower pH's. The key is the high humidity slows transpiration. You'll be itchy to harden it off and give more light, but ... be patient. Some nutes in your substrate should not be a problem because it won't drink much in the correct climate (low vpd). There's not a ton of growth so there shouldn't be a ton of nutes. Professional nurseries do this, but i don't know if any evidence supports it: Above ground temps are allowed to be nice and cool, but they use a heat mat to keep the substrate at a proper temp (76-82F ? 'to be refrenced'). This slows growth above ground but as with most things the plant compartmentalizes.. since the roots are at optimal conditions, they are the defacto spot energy will be used, and should theoretically speed it up a bit. I've used root hormone before. I think genetics plays most of the role of a fast rooter. Whether i save 24-48h off of that is not relevant to how i use clones, but your mileage may vary. I bought one bottle, stopped using it, and see very little difference. The plants that root fast still happen in roughly the same proportion. I would suggest you keep it as simple as possible till you have nearly 100% success accross numerous strains. Then, start adding things that supposedly help alot. heat mats that come witha thermostat soil probe are very useful for cold climates, for example, but not so much in warmer ones. It is nice as a humidity producer when paired with a humidity dome and wet substrate. much easier to control climate of a 10x20 tray than a room. If you see paling leaves, you need to reduce light a bit or increase humidity.. slowing transpiration will slow photosynthesis. You also need a gentle light early on. after 7-10 days you can test a bit more and if you see roots, can definitely give a bit more. some may exhibit some overt vege growth before 7-10 days, and speed up the schedule for those plants when they occur. A little paling is fine. Probably the right side to err on, i'd guess. The really good looking growth won't occur until after it roots and you get new growth tips.
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Mes9009
Mes9009answered grow question 6 months ago
سلام.ساقه ای که کات می کنید حداقل دو الی سه گره باید داشته باشه .و هر ژنتیکی می تونه فرق کنه،یکی قوی تره یکی ضعیف تره ,,, خیلی خیس آبش کمتر کن وگرنه ساقه خراب میشه
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Scrubbyjimbob
Scrubbyjimbobanswered grow question 6 months ago
I like about 6.0 personally, if you were using jiffy pucks you could probably even go 6.5-7. Beyond whatever rooting compound you're using, I wouldn't add anything else to your water. No roots means no feeding anyway. I always had a hard time managing moisture using rockwool, always too wet or too dry-and getting a little of both is important at different times to encourage root growth. I'm a big fan of Rapid Rooters. They're inorganic so usable in hydro setups and they're really easy to use.
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