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Every time I get to week 6-7 of veg or later I sta...

HiddenMessage
HiddenMessagestarted grow question a day ago
Every time I get to week 6-7 of veg or later I start to notice a lack in my feeding. what is it that im not giving enough at this point? they seem to be a little too light green in some areas , more in the new growth. Im using fox farm 6-4-4 rn and calmag . what else can I add?
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Leaves. Color - Pale
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gREEn7o0
gREEn7o0answered grow question a day ago
Hmm... sorry this is typed weird, its pretty much my though log with me checking your grow info between thoughts.. The bottom is dying off which would mean its mobile. Originally first glance I was thinking you may be light on your calmag (mag is mobile, cal is not) but based on your grow log you are almost triple dosing at 4ml/L vs the 5ml/gal that product calls for. I don't think you are root bound in a pot that size for a plant that size. Nor should it take so long to dry out that you are getting root rot. That leaves nitrogen. Mobile - check Yellowing - check Based on your grow log you are feeding 14ml/L So triple dosing there as well.. So either we have a typo/data error on your logs, or you are over feeding the fuck outta your girls. If you are feeding what log says flush and feed according to recommended values. (5ml/gal cal mag, 15ml/gal grow) If there is typo or data error then that also solves it. For normal feeding: Increase calmag 1ml/gal Increase grow 1-6ml/gal You are slightly light for both. For recovery feeding: If you have a tds/ec meter it would help you ensure you don't over feed and lock out the plant. That said for next feed/water I would up cal mag a good amount to start (probably double dose on next feed/water), it also boosts N which should help if it is nitrogen deficient. At the moment if it is showing a deficiency due to cal or mag its already weeks old and it would be the first thing I target as it would help resolve either issue. Once you hit with that feed keep an eye and see if plants are still yellowing, or if the issue has stopped spreading. For following feed I would up grow to 20ml/gal And keep cal mag around 6ml/gal as long as that keeps my ec/tds level reasonable. Thats my thought process on it. Good luck.
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 12 hours ago
Plant captures light, collects energy, mixes nutrients with captured light energy it catches from the air to make "carbohydrates" Carbo"Sugar" - Hydrates"water". Plant makes "Sugar water", called glucose glucose is then mixed with nutrients and carbon to form amino acids, enzymes and more complex proteins. Vast portion of a plant's daily energy consumption goes Into creating these complex aminos and enzymes. I'm not sure of % but I've read it's very labor intensive for a plant to create its own aminos. By supplying aminos, enzymes, lots of yummy glucose in various forms should alleviate a huge workload on plants when provided with correct aminos/enzymes the plant can focus its energies on bud production instead.
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Ninjabuds
Ninjabudsanswered grow question a day ago
Possible your overwatering. Also check the ph level of the run off water
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modmyplants
modmyplantsanswered grow question a day ago
Hey mate, you could use micro-nutrients such as Fox Farm Bush Doctor Microbe Brew, Botanicare Vitamino, or a product that contains chelated iron, zinc, and manganese. And you could try another fertilizer for that phase with higher N in it, or add stuff like blood meal which is basically pure N.
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001100010010011110
001100010010011110answered grow question a day ago
Consider what you change heading into bloom and add that to the list of possible causes. Ramping up P/K too high can have negative impects. Locking things out or too much buildup of P/K which leads to chlorosis in new growth with thinner blades among other symptoms. based on ratios, probably too much P even if that is not a cause of the visible symptoms. FF trio is just a shitty ratio, that's all. It'll take more trial and error to figure out a formula that works and almost awlays need to add a source for caclium with their products if the soil can't provide it by itself. the plant may have both buildup and deficiency from the diet, which makes diagnosing strictly from visible symptoms difficult at best. This stuff doesn't happen overnight, so consider the changes you made 2-3-4 weeks ago or even longer. Maybe it's your bloom formula over long-haul that simply is not balanced properly for a wide variety of plants. just becasue it works for "1" plant doesn't mean it is a good formula or that the problem lies in the plants it doesn't work well with - that's called hubris. the fault almost always lies with our actions and not the plants. i'd find some people that successfully use FF trio and mimic what they do and adjust relative to your local variables -- the plant will dictate what to do. Or, better option... buy fertilizer that doesn't have a cartoon graphic like it's trying to market sugary cereal to children, lol. "Marijuana" branded stuff is usually poorly thought out, esoteric formulas that don't work as well as existing general knowledge of fertiization needs/methods and over-priced. Fertilizer is made from cheap ingredients athat are commodities. that means that unless you are working with some oddball products, there is no such thing as quality differences.. paying more doesn't get you better fertilizer. Just buys some fancy clothes for the emperor that nobody else can see.
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