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When to incorporate MonsterBloom, and is watering till run-off necessary if i do occasional 1/4 dose feeds?

XanHalen
XanHalenstarted grow question 2 days ago
When should i begin supplementing with MonsterBloom, I'm in the second week of flower, and I'm using GH Trio and CalMag. peep the pics to show flowering status as of now, and peep the attached diary for more info. also, should I be watering till runoff at least once in a while?
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Week 5
Buds. Other
Setup. Strain - Autoflowering
Feeding. Other
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question a day ago
is it soilless? Yes, it is important. And stop doing wahtever it is you think a "1/4" dose feed is.. sounds like incomplete irrigation to me. This will train roots to grow superficially as they turn toward greater moisture at the top due to the ncomplete irrigation. Watering is simple. Don't overthink it. 1) fully saturate with10% runoff (in soilless). If in soil, a minimal runoff barring any leaf symptoms is fine. This is so you don't leach off all those amendments you paid for in the soil, but you still want the entire thing to get wet. This is not "overwatering" 2) wait for appropriate loss of wait or 'dryback' -- not really about drying and more about the plant drinking. Rinse and repeat... If you get any droop, that is indicative of a poorly constituted substrate and nothing else... shouldn't see droop unless running a shit ton of water through th esubstrate and drowning the roots for 5-10 minutes or more. (not referring to a slow drip that takes 10-15mins to complete the task -- limits compaction doing this. this is not a large volume of water, just slow) If making it more complicated that that, it's probably more about OCD-type behaviour than any benefit from it. in soil if you run into a buildup in the substrate, extra runoff can help dilute that, but it's a reaction to a problem observed and not just done randomly. Flushing is stressful and slows the plant down, so tehre should be a good reason to do it. You paid for that soil, so you should minimize washing the nutrients down the drain that came with it. Promix Bx is essentially soiless after 5-7 days. It does come with a basic pre-charge of nutes around 1EC. A plant will exhaust that very fast. I use BX or HP - whichever is cheaper at the moment, but also add enougghvermiculite to bring the sphagnum peat moss to perlite+vermiculite to 50/50 (or 1:1, whichver you prefer). This is results in a better gas:water mix. Youou should rarely have to flush with a soilless growing method. That means you aren't adjustingn your formula based on what the plants tell you and overfeeding them for long periods of time. The 10% runoff maintains a consistent resulting EC of nutesin your substrate. This consistency is the primary benefit of soilless along with the nutes being 100% available to the plant the moment they are added. Any symptom seen is 100% caused by your formula and nothing else. (assumes it is ph-balaced. that should be common sense). This eliminates a multitude of other potential cuases to any symptom seen - making diagnosis an dfixing the problem easier -- plus, you should be able to avoid that particular problem in the future with a more optimized formula going forward. keep nutes of not only concentration given but also ratio of each nute.. or elemental ppm of each.. fertiization is a culmination of everything you've done since it was planted, and not just last night or last week.
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question a day ago
I agree with numbers, more PK does not = bigger better You'll likely over feed with it and cause more issues. GH Trio is a pretty good product from eveything I have heard.
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question a day ago
also, more p/k is not always better. It depends 100% on how much you already provide. if adding more results in skinny fingered, pale leaves at the top, you added to much, as that's one of the initial signs of P and K toxicity. Reference any leaf symptom chart to verify that. Adding more is more often just pissing excess nutes down the drain. if in soilless it's easy to give some thresholds, but this doens't apply to soil P 40-60 ppm is enough. K 180-200? maybe even a skosh less. Always read and react to plants, but in general these levels are all you need and empirical studies show adding more has no benefit to yield nor potency. Botk P and K rely heavily on "active transport" to enter the plant. Through some sort of feedback loop in the plant, it 'knows' to grab p and k on demand based on need. Excess p and k in the soil is unused. Unlike the nutes that freely enter through "mass flow." This info you can find in higher level plant nutrition textbooks. it is not bro science or opinion.
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All_our_small_plants
All_our_small_plantsanswered grow question a day ago
Hoi guten morgen, also ich würde dir empfehlen ab der 3 oder 4 Woche der Blütenphase den Monster Bloom mit dazu geben. Und ja du soltets auf Runoff gießen damit die überschüssigen Salze aus dem Boden gespült werden. Und du woltest dann auch den runoff kontrolierren auf PH Wert und EC wert so kannst du sehen ob alles in Ordnung ist. PH in der Blüte solte 6.4 bis 6.5 haben un der EC wert zwischen 1.4 und 1.8 aber immer unter 2. Viel erfolg. Sieht bis jetzt gut aus. Kannst auch jetzt deine DLI auf 40 bis 45 erhöhen.
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greenAF
greenAFanswered grow question a day ago
yes your in soilless, if you dont feed to run off the nutes will build up quick in the substrate. That simple, the more runoff the lower the final ec will be and vice versa. You should always be feeding to runoff on soilless bottom line.
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