Specific to your context:
You have a 5x4 tent = 20sq ft.
18h operation starting point range:
20 x 70 x .67 = 938
20 x 80 x .67 = 1072
Call it 950-1100 umol/s produced at diode with reflective walls and orthodox hanging distances.
FCE-6500 claims 2044umol/S
1100 / 2044 = about 54%.
So, yes, 50% would be a good starting point. You still need to observe and adjust no matter what you choose. In the end the plant and environment together dictate maximum DLI you can give.
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Why... (or, learn to fish for yourself)
It's the same concepts and doesn't really change. You start around the same DLI and you allow the plant's growth to dictate adjustments for your local variables.
How much any plant can handle per day without hurting itself depends on several variables, therefore how much light you give will inevitably be different than how much someone else can provide, safely.
PPFD is only half the equation. That's like miles per hour (a rate alone is not entirely useful). That needs to be multipled by hours of operation (simplified). DLI tables can be found with a simple google image search for reference. Start somwhere around 35-40 DLI (ambient co2 conditions) and adjust based on plant growth -- too lanky? add more. too tight? reduce. Simple after that. If your temps, rh and atmospheric co2 remain consistent throughout the year, you can use the same settings and hanging distance. Otherwise, go through the same observe and adjust process for each seasonal change... take notes so you only have to do it once. Very minimal adjustments may be needed after that, unless you ahve some sort of professional lab control over your climate :P
12h operation, maybe 70-80umol/s per sq ft (umol/s at diode and orthodox hanging distance)
18h operation 67% of that rate needed to get to same DLI.
16h operation 75% of that rate needed to get to same DLI.
You can multiply that by 10.764 to get PPFD. (10.764ft^2 / 1m^2 onversion)
DLI is what matters. DLI is what needs to jive with your climate and atmospheric co2 to avoid damaging a plant. if you stick to standard hours of operation, you'll get just as familiar with your specific umol/s needs from light (at diode).
There is little to no difference with autoflowers compared to photoperiods except for how it switches to flower phase. No matter how good a suggestion is in regard to light intensity, you absolutely will have to make some minor adjsutments based on local variables. It may even take several weeks to see any symptoms of too much light.