training

Warte noch auf die vierte Nodie das sie kräftiger ist. Wenns eine Photo ist kannst du den Kopf abschneiden, eine woche warten und dann LST machen. Bei einer Auto würde ich kein Topping empfehlen, eher nur LST. Pflanze sieht aber sehr gut aus, warte noch etwas. Geduld zahlt sich immer aus !

I top at the 4th node personally and then I will start training after that. I see a big growth spurt at this point which is why I do it at this node versus other nodes. Training is best to do early on while branches are still flexible. They will eventually get woody and could snap or break if you try to bend them. This looks good so far! Good luck with your grow.

Hi, to me she looks okay so far. Did you take the photos right after lights on? She looks a bit droopy, which can be normal at that time 🌱 Once the third node is clearly visible, you can top and start with LST. Just bend the shoots very gently — they can break easily, especially early on Have a nice grow 👌

hi Chuligan..... Ich würde die Pflanze erst mal düngen, dass sie wieder stabil aussieht ....... Wenn sie wieder fit ist, würde ich sie nach der vierten Nodie toppen 😎 nachdem sie das toppen verkraftet hat und wieder fit ist, würde ich mit dem LST beginnen😉 Viel Glück

Start feeding soon. She's getting yellow and hungry. I wait until the 4th node to top. Some wait till the 5th or 6th. For LST, your plant needs to be tall enough to bend over, which she isn't yet. Or you have to wait until the side branches are long enough to bend down parallel with the soil

I top my plants at the 3rd node. LST isn’t really required when topping, the plant will get bushy enough (just look some of my diaries). Except if you don’t have enough space and want to grow a dwarf plant. You plants seems to be slightly overwatered, on your leaves you can see like interveinal speed bumps and wrinkles (a bit like your fingers when you stay too long in the water) and they are puffy. Your light is definitely too close, plants are miniaturized white short internodes, and you can see like interveinal clear stripes between the veins of the leaves. There’s only 3 PORBLEMS TO AVOID growing indoor, TOO MUCH LIGHT, TOO MUCH WATER, TOO MANY NUTRIENTS. So I will also suggest you to use an EC/TDS meter when using your nutrients, and to not follow manufacturer schedule neither manufacturer dosing instructions.

No don't top. More oxygen in the rootzones 🙏

A 4-inch lip (the distance between the soil surface and the pot rim) creates a significant boundary layer of stagnant air that acts as a localized "dead zone" for humidity. This depth disrupts natural air circulation across the topsoil, leading to stagnant humidity and reduced transpiration. Transpiration is the primary method by which vascular plants move water from the soil to the atmosphere, if it becomes limited or restricted then soil will remain saturated and in plastic pots growth stunt for a number of reasons. it is scientifically accurate that when soil becomes saturated—meaning the pores are completely filled with water—oxygen moves roughly 10,000 times slower than in air-filled pores. This dramatic reduction in mobility often leads to an oxygen flux (the total amount of oxygen reaching plant roots) that is up to 320,000 times lower than in well-aerated, dry soil. Doesn't matter how much perlite there is, its akin to locking out oxygen. Soon as oxygen goes everything moves from aerobic to anaerobic, at drops dramatically, lactic acid is released slowly lowering ph acidic. Low oxygen (hypoxia) in a growing medium creates anaerobic conditions that significantly alter nutrient availability, often leading to iron (Fe) deficiency, particularly in compacted or waterlogged soils. While waterlogging initially increases the solubility of iron (making it more available to the point of potential toxicity), the combination of low oxygen and oversaturation disrupts root respiration, which is essential for iron uptake. Iron is absolutely critical for the synthesis of new chlorophyll, and its unavailability leads to a rapid, visible cessation of chlorophyll production, often manifesting within 52 hours of a severe iron-deficient environment. While iron is not a direct structural component of the chlorophyll molecule itself, it acts as an essential catalyst for the enzyme systems that build chlorophyll, generally why she goes light green. Good luck.

hey 👋 u need to wait until you have 4 well formed nodes. Once you do, cut the top, leaving about 0.5 cm (or a bit more), otherwise you risk the plant splitting in two during training. At the same time, cut off the first two lower branches. u’ll then be left with 6 branches across 3 levels, which you can train however you like 👌