Tag 105: Noch 7 Tage bis zu Ernte! Kann es kaum erwarten 😍

Hello, long time, no grow. I’m trilled to start on a new grow project, i’m away from growing a long time, but my love for ot was always present, i miss it a lot so i have got a few strains from Fastbuds to test and come back with a minimal setup. I have got the Festberry, Bluedream, and the 1:20 cbd, they have sent in the Banana Purple punch Ok, so what is a minimal setup? For this grow i have choose to grow in my balcony, it is fairly big and i gave good sunlight, we are in summer now, so temps are high, swinging a lot. It is raining often as well so I did not need to water much. For the nutrients i will go organic i think, in my substrate i have about 30% warm castings, so i’m good for till mid grow length +-, i might add a bit of nutrients in 30 days mark. The objective of this experiment is to use as little as possible, 360 degrees. For the germination process i have used a mixed process method, that i have learned from Fastbuds and i have loved it, 24h in a glass of filtered water, paper towel for about 24h -48h and then the Floraflex gremination pellets, i have tested on the jiffy and worked fine as well. Cool about this method, if you are more on the anxious side or like to control more the process this is the way, you can follow the hole process and see the development in parts. I will add images later on, for this breakdown. Well that is it, lets hope for a cool, safe journey for this girls. — The Blue dream i had germinated two and both look great so I have decided to keep two in one vase. Never done it, so let’s see what will happen.

finally they are in flower! Yay final foliar spray applied. They are still smelling like chocolate and peanut butter. Did not get 1 drop of rain this week. It is getting so frustrating plants are 1/4 what they should be this year.

Der Stamm ist schön dick geworden. Die Wurzeln sind unten schon komplett angekommen und zeigen sich beim Untertopf. Gelbtafeln und Blautafeln angebracht.

Mold started :(

Been feeding just water ready for the chop. Some of them have all brown pistils and have pretty much stopped all together. The kalimist indica pheno is still flowering so I'll let it go until it looks ripe 👍

I would like to thank all those in charge of this site. Also all those who supported me and followed me thanks to everyone I will ‏ I will keep you update guys win while the flowers are drying 😍

Noticed smell when entering the room.

week 3 finished up and on to week 4. Lambs breath is doing very well. I LST early to just promote some stem growth which worked. The undergrowth is growing in and i will probably pin it down maybe once and spread the branches from there. Dont want to cause too much stress to the atuo.

Día tan esperado de esta cosecha de crítical mas con cogollos muy duros y muy apretado y compactos y grandes con un aroma muy fuerte con un olor a diesel

Stopped training this week. The mains are around 6 inches above the screen. I was shooting for around 10-12 inches above the screen so I think I’m right on track to get there

My own blended recycled living soil water passion love & respect only. ...... added soil biology includes Wallace wonder organics myco fungi .. extreme gardening AZOS ... and synergro ... along with my own farmed castings also inoculated.500wQB running at 300w

Nutrient deficiency? or over feeding nutrients? Normally feed 3days nutirents 1 day ph water messed up my feeds which made me feed nutrients for 4 days instead of my intended 3days which may of caused yellow tips. only on a couple of the leaves i (THINK) i might of caught pretty early Flushed with ph 5.9 water saturday 18-1-25 as of 19/1/25 24 hours later no signs of it getting worse or on any other leaves decided to cut big fan leaves of to try and direct the growth more to the nodes going to leave it an hour or 2 to see how she reacts to what ive done then if all is good i shall feed with nutrient Nutrient mix 5litres H202 2.5ml Silicate 3g Calmag 5ml Micro 5ml grow 5ml bloom 4ml Ph 0.1ml 22-1-25 no feed for two days to see how it holds up..(Its holdin up) last feed was 20-1-25 just some light LSTand defoliation today on 22jan just to keep all branches around the same level the banana cookies that was planted same time seems to be a bit behind and is not on the same path

Harvested Shiva Skunk, Zombie Kush and Sweet Love.

This is plant one and two, plant one cane down 5 days before plant two so didnt get the exact wet weight, 5 days into hang dry plant one weighed 250g, plant two was cut down and chopped for box dry, weighed 200g for the heads and 300g for the lower plant produce, will update when dry and tested

Harvest day 68 since time switch to 12 / 12 h Hey guys :-) Finally it's time 💚 The lady is done the large leaves have been removed and hung upside down to dry in the dark drying room. You can now stay there for 13-15 days at a temperature of 18-20 degrees and 55-62% humidity. After 13-15 days it is neatly trimmed by hand and placed in jars with boveda packs 62. After 4 weeks Boveda 58% come in and are ready for testing ;-). After everything has been cut cleanly, the last update comes with the smoke report and the finished pictures. Let's get to the plant 💚. First of all I would like to compliment Green House for this genetics. Unfortunately, the rating system at Growdiaries is a bit strange because I have to give the stars before the Smoke Report and in the end it might have led to more stars in terms of taste. Unfortunately, this phenotype is nothing special, which is very annoying given the price :-( The smell is ok, but nothing great, but the high is good, which is less important to me. Have fun and stay healthy 💚🙏🏻 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 ‘Powered by GreenHouse Feeding’ Copy the link for 10% off all Nutrients 👇🏼 http://shop.greenhousefeeding.com/ affiliate/madelngermany_passiongrower/ 👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼👇🏼 Water 💧 💧💧 Osmosis water mixed with Cal/Mag (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 290 ppm and Ph with Ph- to 5.8 - 6.4 MadeInGermany

Hello everyone, One hour ago the peyote cookies experienced for the first time total darkness and are officially in flower mode. I vegged the plant for 7 weeks and am a little bit disappointed, they didn't stretch much and the main stem is to the thin side, but it is what it is. Thanks for stopping by and have a nice day. Growfather

Things are going well. Very good root growth. The two new main stems have grown enough to be tied down for Low Stress Training. I don't think I'll top again. I want to see how fast I can get a good canopy with DWC, and see if Manifold-style training can get me a similar shape to the Mainline I did last year where I lost a ton of time from topping 4 times and doing a bunch of pruning to maintain a certain shape. I set the lights to 18/6 to encourage some rest and regrowth, and frankly to save myself a bit of light and noise at night. The reservoir is still full so I'm going to leave it this week and change out the water next week. The leaves are looking a bit stressed so I raised the light and moved the fan back a bit. I have a window fan pulling air out while there's no smell but I think I'll need to switch that to intake, turn on the exhaust and replace the jet with an oscillating fan. There is a fan on the cool tube for my light as well. I think I need to hang something heavier on the front to dampen the sound. All the fans are getting loud for my small apartment. Lol I topped it again the next day. I have wires tying down all the main branches. I think it's worthwhile to spend the time in veg making a good canopy. I'm following the instructions for Nebula's Manifold technique but I haven't done any pruning yet except for the topping itself. I have a vision of what I want taking form. June 16 I checked the pH and it was 6.5 so I brought it down to 5.5. I'm going to change out the water and nutes tomorrow. It needs a top-up so I'll just change out the whole thing tomorrow. I'm leaving out a bucket of water overnight for the chlorine to evaporate.

Bis auf das Problem das es in unserer Region Arsch Kalt ist und ich im Grow Temperatur Probleme habe läuft es gut. Die Ladys haben eine gesunde Farbe und sie sind in der Vorblüte. Leider musste ich eine Gorilla Glue entsorgen, die andere Erholt sich gerade. Bin mal gespannt was aus ihr wird. Da ich noch sehr Unerfahren bin und ich bei meinen ersten Grow durch ein Zwitter alles zerstört habe bin ich mir nicht sicher ob auch jetzt einer dabei ist. Habe ein Bild hochgeladen. Vielleicht kann mir ja jemand sagen ob ich mir Sorgen machen muss. Bis jetzt läuft es Überraschend gut. Beobachte Die Lady weiter und hoffe das es kein Zwitter ist. Glaube aber nicht. Den anderen Damen geht es super.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.