So I am harvesting sweet Bourbon Kush Autoflower. It grew really fast. It smells like a wooddy sweet Bourbon. Hence the name. 🤷. She grew great for me in coco/perlite in a 1.5 gallon Potter. She has a great smell, great frost. Looks delicious. I am super eager to try the results. Thank you Spider Farmer, and Super Sativa Seeds Club. 🌱🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱❄️🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g

She is so big 😍I'm not even kidding she is growing in 6L pot and. she is today 53 and 80cm tall with lots off main cola not couple over 6 main colas im immersed can't be anymore happy thanks alot too fastbud Day 54 I start too feed her with monkey bloom nutrient bloom A bloom B And I add bio heaven(bud denser)recommend by grower friend 💚

La planta viene creciendo bien y ha superado con éxito el transplante, creció 11 cms de una semana a otra, las hojas están lindas, se regó con micorrizas 1ml x litro y 2ml x litro de oro negro de namaste, para complementar un poco mas en esta etapa.veremos que sucede mas adelante.

Bienvenidos cultivadores de marihuana clandestinos, y también, a los que tienen la fortuna de no serlo!🖐️👨‍🌾 16 semanas de vida para esta planta hija de una Reina, nacida en casa y ahora cultivada al calor del hogar, siete semanas en horario de floración 12/12h y todavía tiene mucho que decir, su madre tuvo un periodo de 11 semanas de floración y si esta princesa sigue sus pasos los cogollos vana a ser majestuosos... a jugar He estado fuera unos días y al llegar todas las plantas gozaban de buena salud, las flores crecen y esta planta apesta, mis dedos se quedan pegados a las flores si las toco! Hoy al llegar he preparado una comilona para todas mis plantas, ahora, todos reunidos con música de fondo, hemos bebido felices y comido con placer y en abundancia... que siga el juego! Hasta la próxima... SALUDOS Y SALUD A TODOS!! ================================ Semilla obtenida el año pasado de la planta original, probablemente un retro cruce S1, un paso más hacia la auto suficiencia total en cultivos de marihuana! Mira el diario original: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/146971-grow-journal-by-defharo Info de la cepa original: https://en.seedfinder.eu/strain-info/Queen_Mother/Delicatessen/ Floración: 8 semanas Queen Mother es una cepa sativa estabilizada, gracias al minucioso y sistemático trabajo de selección y mantenimiento de la cepa, que el breeder Mario Bellandi, afincado en España desde hace más de 30 años, desarrolla sin descanso y con la máxima coherencia. El cruce inicial de esta cepa, y que hoy permanece intacto, surgió a finales de los 90 entre una sativa desconocida, cultivada en los altos de Tarragona (España) por la misma persona desde los años 60, unas semillas de la isla de Reunión y semillas de un cruce estabilizado de dos landrace congoleñas... ==============

Como se puede ver al dia de la fecha (19/01) las plantas de macetas vienen creciendo con un problemita,que no sé cual es, pero las hojas algunas están tomando un color amarillo. Pensando que puede ser una carencia, le suministre 2 ml x litro de agua de oro negro de namaste, en los próximos días tendré que ver los resultados para ver si mejoran. Con respecto a la planta de la tierra, viene creciendo bien y fuerte, doble sus puntas principales para que crezca más horizontal.

Como se puede ver al dia de la fecha (19/01) las plantas de macetas vienen creciendo con un problemita,que no sé cual es, pero las hojas algunas están tomando un color amarillo. Pensando que puede ser una carencia, le suministre 2 ml x litro de agua de oro negro de namaste, en los próximos días tendré que ver los resultados para ver si mejoran. Con respecto a la planta de la tierra, viene creciendo bien y fuerte, doble sus puntas principales para que crezca más horizontal.

I don't think much more will happen in case of Bud thiccness, just getting more ripe. But i hope im wrong, wouldn't mind if they get a little bit more swollen. Since im Colorblind i can't say for sure, but i think RG #1 is turning kinda Purple? RG #2 has still the biggest buds and starts to fade now. There are still a lot of white pistils and Trichomes are also not ready yet, still not milky and i surely want some amber in it also. So i guess at least another 2 weeks, mostly 3. Don't want to harvest them too early, they should have the time to get ready. This week they also got again 10ml of Bio PK, next week will be the last time, then only water for 2 weeks. So see you next week then! :)

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Empezamos la semana cambiando los nutrientes al observar ya unos pequeños pistilos o estigmas , en definitiva, empezaron a mostrar tímidamente el sexo. Empiezo con poco y iré subiendo la dosis hasta 4ml/L hasta que vuelva a cambiar de nutrientes. Creo observar del Lumatek ATSpro que le fataria un punto de luz en el centro del panel. Por lo general con otras luminarias la planta del medio me solia crecer mucho mejor y esta vez está quedando retrasada. Seguiré cultivando y si me sigue pasando lo mismo entonces no tendré ninguna duda, por ahora solo son conjeturas, xd De lo anterior rectifico , tengo que decir que pasados dos dias lo estoy viendo diferente, la del medio parece que sigue por buen camino, ahora apenas notaria la diferencia. La semana anterior, la sexta, se les hizo una segunda pulverización con dosis alta de 3ml/L con spiderbloom ( "fitofortificante de impacto muy rápido") pero de nada sirvió, durante esta semana subió la temperatura a 30ºC un par de dias y las arañas salieron a pegarse el gran festín. Una vez constatada la existencia de araña roja correteando por el envés de las hojas solo toca desinfectar bién el armario, lavarlas a todas una a una con agua corriente para arrastrar el máximo de arañitas y una vez secas darles con algun acaricida químico. De no hacerlo ahora me seria imposible más adelante y no tengo ningunas ganas de dejar perder este cultivo. No soy partidario de lo químico pero menos de dejarlas perder.

This week I made the decision to remove the ScrOG net because the plant has stunted growing and the leaves were droopy before and after watering . Given the fact she is an indica dominant strain, my approach to training wasn't the best. Also the light intensity has been adjusted to PPFD level of 700. The light schedule is 18/6, so the DLI is about 45, which is the recommended maximum for autoflowers. I will keep my eyes on her, how is she will react.

Week 2 Light cycle=22/2 Light power=86w=36% Extractor controller settings High temp= 24c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= 70% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=5 Speed min=1 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on= 02.00am Radiator on= below 19c Radiator off= above 20c Humidifier on= below 64% Humidifier off= above 67% Dehumidifier on= not in use Dehumidifier off= not in use Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=00.00am Radiator on= below 16c Radiator off= above 18c Humidifier on= not in use Humidifier off= not in use Dehumidifier on= not in use Dehumidifier off= not in use Friday 29/12/23 #3 (Day 8) 📋 This is looking strange, the leaves seem to have lots of blemishes, almost like tiger stripes, early leaves do show up weird growth at times so I'll put it down to that. Saturday 30/12/23 #3 (Day 9) 📋 Still got strange leaf markings. Was H=8cm D=77cm DLI=19.5 Now H=8cm D=70cm DLI=19.0 10.00pm Switch to 20/4 Light power was=86w=36% Light power still=86w=36% Lowered light by 7cm. Extractor controller settings High temp= 24c Low temp= c Temp step=0c High Rh= 68% Low Rh= % Rh step=0% Speed max=5 Speed min=1 Smart controller settings (during lights on). Lights on=20/4 (04.00am) Radiator on= below 19c Radiator off= above 20c Humidifier on= below 62% Humidifier off= above 65% Dehumidifier on= not in use Dehumidifier off= not in use Smart controller settings (during lights off). Lights off=20/4 (00.00am) Radiator on= below 16c Radiator off= above 18c Humidifier on= not in use Humidifier off= not in use Dehumidifier on= not in use Dehumidifier off= not in use Sunday 31/12/23 (New year's eve) #3 (Day 10) 📋 wet the soil. Monday 1/1/24 (New year's day) #3 (Day 11) 📋 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Method= manual Neutralise=0.1ml/L Roots=5ml/L Feed=nutes Volume=200ml Easy Ph down=0 drops/L Ec=0.27PH=6.1/6.2 Time=9.00pm Runoff. Total runoff=45ml Ec=2.5 PH=5.7 💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧💧 Tuesday 2/1/24 #3 (Day 12) 📋Humidifier didn't come on autopilot. Wednesday 3/1/24 #3 (Day 13) 📋 Maybe top tomorrow. Thur 4/1/24 #3 (Day 14)***** 📋 ✂️ Topped after the 3rd set of leaves (5 fingered). Removed lower leaves and nodes (single fingered). Tomorrow will be the 1st day of 18/6 so altered the light at 10.00pm Light power was 86w 36% Light power now 120w 50% Was H=10cm D=67cm DLI=18.9 Now H=10cm D=67cm DLI=22.0 Been another good week, she is still sporting some cool tiger stripes on some of the leaves. She has been topped so I should have 4 main colas, I may top some of them further down the line. Back soon. Take it easy.

This week I made the decision to remove the ScrOG net because the plant has stunted growing and the leaves were droopy before and after watering . Given the fact she is an indica dominant strain, my approach to training wasn't the best. Also the light intensity has been adjusted to PPFD level of 700. The light schedule is 18/6, so the DLI is about 45, which is the recommended maximum for autoflowers. I will keep my eyes on her, how is she will react.

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Eccoci qui, Settimana all'insegna del Topping e dell'LST per far si che la piccola cresca con cime di serie a! Verrà eseguito scrog a breve non appena si allungheranno le cime. Topping eseguito il 16/01/2024, dopo un giorno ha reagito molto bene, sarà interessante lo sviluppo!!! Grazie a tutti per il supporto ❤️🔥🌲

8th week of flowering. There is a light at the end of the tunnel. After a tip from here, I put all the LED lamps I had in the tent. Doesn't matter how cheap they are. The two light bulbs produce 6500k daylight... And it really bears fruit. The resin production around it is clearly visible. I'm excited. I realize that the trichome photos are a little too early, but I'll test the photo quality.

8th week of flowering. There is a light at the end of the tunnel. After a tip from here, I put all the LED lamps I had in the tent. Doesn't matter how cheap they are. The two light bulbs produce 6500k daylight... And it really bears fruit. The resin production around it is clearly visible. I'm excited. I realize that the trichome photos are a little too early, but I'll test the photo quality.