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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@Barb420
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👋👋Hi Week 2 all 4 cheese 🧀 girls are up👀💯, All in 14 ltr LST Fabric pots, 🌋larva rock
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hello everyone we some part in flowering with 8 Ricky G-41s and we find ourselves with 4 beautiful little females and 4 males that I cut at the beginning of the week. our ratios and 50/50 isn't crazy or I'm not lucky with girls. kisses to all and happy Growing
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The new 300w Mammoth nova sun lights are installed and I'm loving them already. I'm running both lights on a lower power for now because the ppfd is hitting 1750+. 640w of power in there now with the mammoth driver outside the tent but the spiderfarmer driver inside.Temps are no problem and winter is fast approaching so I can ramp up the power soon to match the Co2 1200-1500ppm. Smell is starting to really hang around now. 2 mostly smell like a Gassy banana and 1 smells like Gassy grapes and one very grapey smell. I do see why it has strawberry in its name though it does have a strawberry smell when the grape and banana smell mix.
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Very nice and healthy and easy veg grow..flipped
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23/07 - Special queen #1 is now officially in flower! Super excited to see the growth the next few weeks. This strain may become 2.5x taller than its current height. I will water both of them with 1-1.5L of water w flowering nutes. They are drying up quick. A few yellowing tips but not getting worse. 24/07 - watered both plants with 1L with 0.5ml biogrow, 1ml biobloom and 1ml topmax. They are at the same height of the scrog net. In a few days I will be ticking them and covering the whole space. 28/07 - Watered both with 1L of just water at ph 6.5. They were slightly droopy as I was away for a few days but they are already perking back up. Hope you have a great day! Peace
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The NYC Diesel is growing well! A slight skunky smell is already developing around the plant, so I expect she is going to get quite pungent as she develops. Recovery after the FIM seems fine to my inexperienced eyes, and I will be starting LST with lawn staples/plant stakes later in the week. She has been growing low and bushy which is good for my space, and I expect her to explode with growth over the next few weeks. Now that she is growing quickly, I am going to slowly increase the megacrop and cal/mag accordingly. I don't want to overdo it, but I want the feeding well dialed in for when flowering begins.
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Der Gorilla hat sich auch das Herbstkleid übergeworfen. Er darf aber noch ein bisschen bleiben. Prachtvolle Pflanze. Riecht himmlisch. Super schöne Struktur.
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Sapphire scout og bred by Humbold this phenotype surprise me a lot, frosty resins the amazing bud shape and dense. Intense flavor and aroma of pines,flower. Sadly humboldt not available in seedcity now so I purchase ripper seed to grow next season instead. Enjoy growing mate🎉
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D64/F20 - 03/06/23 - The situation is under control now. I'm going to change water asap (maybe tonight) D65/F21 - 04/06/23 - 👉 Water changed, some hours without nutes... D66/F22 - 05/06/23 - EC 0.8 ph 7.0 D67/F23 - 06/06/23 - EC 0.8 ph 7.3 - added pH- D68/F24 - 07/06/23 - Added water and nutes EC 0.9 and pH 6.3 D69/F25 - 08/06/23 - EC 0.9 and pH 6.3 D70/F26 - 09/06/23 - Added water and Calmag, Connoisseur Bloom A-B. Added pH-. EC 1.0 and pH 5.5
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Started using a fish 5-1-1 (one Tbs /gallon) twice a week with a general 3-2-2 (1oz/gallon). Noticed some holes in leafs starting from underneath, had seen this a little last week and trimmed those leafs off or at least most of them. I notices different leafs were affected and was worried it mite be spider mites. In response I mixed 3 essential oils (Cedar Mint, Peppermint, & Melaleuca Oil) with some water (pH 6.25) but did not check the ph of the mixture in the spray bottle. I sprayed the leaves and underneath the leaves and the surrounding environment in the tent. May have put too many oils in the the spray or perhaps the mixtures pH was way off because when I went to check on them again the leaves looked sick. I haphazardly trimmed off the leafs that were ill looking but left the ones that were not as effected and were not drooping. Hopefully the defoliation will inspire Runtz (one with rocks) to grow more branches/ potential bud sights as well as to inspire Blue Cookies (Middle ) to spread out her branches some more to increase surface area. Team Cream (Left-side) was affected the least from the spray and didn't have to prune more than a leaf or two. Team Cream is definitely consuming the most water of the three, being potted first and was the largest clone initially. She is full of surprises in terms of how I think she'll grow. None the less she is responding to training fairly well. If I'm not mistaken I would assume she has more sativa traits than the other two due to her wanting to grow in hight opposed toeing bushy and branching out. IDK it might be how I trained her /got her. Runtz is second in water consumption and responds to training the best of the three, although some lower branches are taking time to develop. Blue Cookies is consuming the least amount of water and has the most run off. Possibly due to being potted a day or two later as well as being the smallest of the clones at first and also suffered the most nutrient burn durringthe 1st or 2nd week when I was feeding them too much.
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@Trip614
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So I'm flushing this week, Sunday I used Flawless Finish and watered heavy early, and did a 2nd plain ro flush 6 hours later, I did the same thing Monday. Tuesday I did not give any water at all, Wednesday I flushed the same way with Flawless finish, but water 2 times after that night, I let everything dry Thursday and Friday, It is Saturday, Today I have used only RO water, I am done adding anything. I think I could call it good, but I am going to keep things going after today, tomorrow/Sunday, and Monday, I will not water again, Tuesday the light will not even come on and I will give it a couple days of dark to finish. I could use some tips on how to get some better pics. I try, I really do, but I'm not getting the pics my eyes are seeing, so in the center of the area is all yellow and marooning leaves, and the buds have a pink tint in that area. The trics are getting there, but not yet, I figure by end of week they should be right... almost all cloudy now, a few clear left, but barely any, the few amber here and there, but I'm also not taking a piece to check from the top either, I gettin a look at a few small little buds, near the top, but not the top, I feel like I'm close... , So anxious had to phone a friend to tell me why to wait today... lol, I'll test my runoff ppm's tonight just to be sure, but the way the coco is taking the water makes me think its clean. I'm always ready at the end, Garden of Green seeds have ALWAYS made me look like a great grower. I'm excited, The smells, is very strong, it has a sweeter smell, next week I should have harvesting pics... Thanks for checkin it out
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@Sonic_Y
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Day 79 / Flower 31 / Flip ~40 / 18.03 Plants look super frosty. They should be ready in a about 1-2 weeks already. Need to check that carefully though. I will harvest at 10% amber. I'm watering every second day, actually. Using the EC again, but hesi got also organic nutrients in their coco line. EC is at 1.6, i'm using RO (EC 0,0 water). So i'm using even more nutrients, then shown in the hesi nutrient chart. Plants like it, i guess. No signs of burning. It looks like they turn a little bit into purple. I will start to use only water soon to begin flushing and i plan to let them dry out the last 6-7 days. Stress them as much as possible... Day 80 / 19.3 Started flushing stage. Every 2 days. Flushing with EC 0,0 water till 40-50% drain. I have a RO system, costs were 90 e.... Works fine... I have tap water in EC 0,8...The off water from the ec 0,0 water, is still nice, it's ec 0,4... If you want to optimize your grows, that's a thing to do... :) Day 82 / 21.3 Drain EC 0,4 I didn't used any additional heating in this grow. I guess, the temperature was always under 25 degrees. Yield will be lower due to lower temperature. Terpent profile will be better due to lower temperature. I will now do a proper flushing and drying out.. Nutrients will be soaked out of the cocos and the leafs.. Final weed will tatse better like that. That's the idea.... This 2-3 week finish sounds pretty good to me... :)
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Holky dozrávají ??💣💣 Co k tomu řict přátelé a se daří ať to roste všem 🌱🍀?😎💚
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@Zanto
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Day 46: Looking healthy and fresh. Didn’t get fat as expected. Although they are beautifll and full snowed. Got some trips in the plants so im using Neem Oil and Potasic Soap organic blend.
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