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You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.
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@Krissci
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Day 2 - no training needed..plants need ntime to recover
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@bms1208
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Buds poppin' off nicely. Rigged up some bamboo skewers to spread the canopy. Scent's a wild mix - citrus vibes with that diesel kick. Like fuel-soaked shop rags, no joke. Word is this strain ain't a monster yielder, but don't sleep on it. Sometimes the lowkey ones surprise you. Can't wait to see how she turns out. Gonna be fire.​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​​
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Starting to stretch & bud, the 2 C99 in the middle ahead of the rest as they look more sativa, fed all today, Average runoff PPM is 2985, high but expected with the feed (2083 average solution PPM), still running acid but the plants look ok, organic feed is crazy. Added High CFM Kit but I think I need another & ordered it.
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@Se7en616
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This week has been extremely hot! Inside the tent reaching up to 30C ! So I’m going to need to get that in check this week, she seems to be handling it like an absolute trooper though!
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Looking good. Little curling from the heat but other than that looking good.
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The calyxes are blowing up on the pheno 1, great purple shades on the leafs and sugar leafs. The trichomes on the leafs showing a few amber heads, important to check the trichomes on the bud. In mine case mostly cloudy at the moment. Pheno 2 is creating more trichomes. It seen that the buds are getting more frostier and giving them the last boost by foxtailing a bit. Not because of the heat or the light, but getting to the end of their life.
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@starke
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SECOND UPDATE - 27th of February 2020 - DRY WEIGHT & LOVE (smoke report to follow) 16. Nov. 2019 - 15. Feb. 2020 - 90 Days grown from Seed - Topped at Day 22 37g total dry weight, after I gave them a very nice trim. They started curing in glass jars on 20/2/2020 and are currently between 61-63%RH inside. Burping every other hour for couple of minutes. She's a beauty, her colors, her stickiness, everything. Her fade 😍😍😍She took well to late topping & nutrients, didn't show any overfeeding etc.; Lots of crystals started showing at the beginning of week 9; Started fading in Week 10 (might have been enhanced by Flawless Finish). Pink & Yellow leaves, orange hair, soooooooo many crystals. I’m in love whooooaaaaaaa 😍 Trimming her took me 2 days, never have I trimmed a plant that sticky, it's not hard, since only my 2nd grow, still... WOW 😍She was almost crumbling of glitter, very different experience from trimming the other plants. I tried collecting all her kief, just moving her from tray to tray, she lost a lot. I must say, collecting kief sucks, I don't have the right tools, it seems. Please share your trimming & collecting technique and tools. Also she lost a lot of calyxes, I was surprised there was still something on it 😱I collected those too hehe, who knows, maybe I decorate a Cannagar with it, this will be my next project. More details: Chop on 15. Feb 2020 - 316g Put in vase with PH water for 2 days in Dry Tent Trimmed on stem then Dry tent on 17. Feb 2020 (50% humidity & 20°C/68F) - 205g Out of dry tent 20. Feb 2020 in jars on stems Trimmed on 24. Feb 2020 - in jars @63% Total wet - no trim - 316g Total wet - trimmed - 205g Total dry - no trim - 63g Total dry - trim - 37g ----------------------- FIRST UPDATE - She is still drying and not yet trimmed or ready to show herself 😍Also I have a lot of respect trimming her, never had such a sticky plant... Can I just leave everything on??? 😁 I will update as I go on with her. She's a beauty, her colors, her stickiness, everything. Her fade 😍😍😍 Can't wait to trim her 🙏We have snacked a lot of her while she was still growing, almost all smaller buds (she had a lot) 😌I'm blaming science and documenting, but seriously, she was already really strong, wow wow wow. Day 90 - 15. Feb of 2020 - she was chopped and put in a vase full of PH water in a dark place for 48 hours. Day 92 - 17. Feb - she moved into the drying tent. Her trichomes were nicely amber with some milky and some clear, good mix. Only 3 days later - 20. Feb - I panic harvested her out of the tent. My two other plants got really dry, so I panicked and cut her stems down and put them into jars. So she had a total dry time of 6 days, if you include the 2 days in darkness. I monitored the humidity, it spiked up to 70%, that's when I took them out, spread them and aired them out for several hours. Back in the jars they sit at a comfortable 65% now, being burped and pampered every day
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These guys seem to have some stunted growth from being in that shitty rock wool dish setup I had but they are making up for it now that they are in the air pots. I transplanted them into sunshine #4 because my other plants have had problems with N tox in coco loco, the only other soil mix I have...probably won’t ever be using fox farm soil again. Too expensive for what it is and it’s a pain in the ass dealing with nute probs. Day 8: into the new grow tent tomorrow Day 10: My Timber Grow Lights 480/500W QB came in! This thing is so sleek. I got it in 3000k which is a tiny bit orange/yellow because I plan on spending most of my time in flower with autos. But I find it works just as well for veg too, hard to notice any slower growth or anything. Since I’m in veg I might add my 2000w blurple to the mix to keep the girls happy
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The girls bounced back very nicely from their topping! They are growing out, rather than up and are on their way to filling out my tent. I will be transplanting these ladies next week, probably to a 4 gallon tall pot. I am thinking I want to flower sooner rather than waiting the typical 8 weeks of Veg that I usually do…
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this cultivar does not like to be bent at all. Starting to show those colours too. This one needs to be LST at a very early stage and it likes to stiffen up like an old school sativa, gets real brittle. Going to start foliar sprays with silica because they help tighten up node spacing, and I know this plant also has longer node spacing typical to landrace sativa cultivars.
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@Regenwurm
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Diese Woche war ein Berg ab und Berg auf! Nachdem die Ladies nach dem entlauben ohne Befeuchter stellenweise auf eine RLF von unter 30 % gefallen sind habe ich den Befeuchter wieder im Zelt installiert! Nun sind es in Tag und Nachtphase 40-45 % also perfekt. Am Tag 41 die Leistung der HID Lampe auf 600 Watt erhöht. In dieser Woche die Pflanzen mit einem pH von 5,8 und ec von 1,1 gespült. Die Temperatur ist konstant gut. Die Pflanzen wurden ebenfalls zum denke ich letzten Mal stark entlaubt um Licht an die Buds zu lassen. Von der Größe der buds stehen sie der x haze etwas nach,, Ich bin aber zufrieden. Es fängt an gut zu riechen 😁 bis nächste Woche ✌️🏾
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Ich kann mich über rein gar nichts beschweren. Bis jetzt würde ich dem Durchgang eine 9,5/10 geben und dem Strain sogar eine 10/10. Diesen intensiven beerigen, süßen Candy Geruch habe ich noch nie in meinem Leben gerochen. Ich bin überwältigt. Nichtmal in Californien habe ich so etwas gerochen.
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@Trinidad
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Week 8 day 56. Trichomes are turning milky, most still clear. I should of defoliated before but this being my 1st auto flower and me being a newbie I didn't want to take the chance. Lessons learnt for next time. Day 61. Approaching 9 week mark. Buds are getting frosty. Not sure if I should give more nutrient or just continue topping up with water. No sign of amber. Pistils on top buds are changing to brown.
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@NG420
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Fattys are growing and seem to be thirstier.Used foliar spray to help the leaves and also started tucking. When the plant was topped pistils were seen for first time.
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@semechkin
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growing fast, seems I was skip few weeks in this diary.
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@Aedaone
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This week started of good except for ph and iron. I'm phing feed and water to 6 but my naturally 7.6 ph water is raising ph. I've realized my water and organic soil don't have iron in them. It's keeping these from greening up properly. I do have blood meal in the soil but not enough. I'll be adding an iron supplement next week when it arrives. Until then I'm going to feed a little masses and blood meal with the ph water. I've had a difficult learning curve switching from coco and salts to organic and soil. #2 got topped on day 1. I'm going to clone this top so I'll have this plant for the future.