Biosys insteat micobe tea once a week

Monday- flush Tuesday- dry day Wednesday- dry day Thursday- 3ml Cal-mag 120ppm/ph6.2 Friday- dry day/ doctor zymes IPM solution Saturday- dry day Sunday- light ph 6.2 watering Aswell as topped #2 #3 of the blue gorrila pineapple 🍍 and they are recovering good

She is looking amazing and stretch is coming along very nicely....she seems to be flowering a little faster so i guess the product by greenbuzz liquids actually works....you gotta see it to belief it they say

Great to see you and I missed you, I had some time so I created a video to thank our lovely foster company, who were so kind to let us try their light in return for a review. Now, most of you don't know I'm also into making music, mostly Techno but I also love HipHop and Gangster rap, mainly 90's Westcoast, although I'm fond of East Coast and a little dirty South, so this was an excellent time to showcase one of my tracks. So please check my Autumn-themed, not commissioned, or approved by Mars Hydro, visualization video in thanks for @MarsHydroLED. The grow has been going great! If you don't count the about a thousand fungus gnats I have been fighting. I'm manually manifolding and training the girls, into the desired shape, which is a bit hands-on but I see it as a collaboration more than a 50 shades approach to training. You can't just bust out a rope and domination on girls like that. We ease it in there, going to the limit every time, making them stretch and curl underneath the touch of our tender but firm hands. And when they are used to a little groping and fixation, we might bring out a few ropes here and there to spice it up a little. Anywaaaays.... I'm getting carried away here, back to the grow. I had bought some coco-peat, after leaving none for the top layer as I suggested to all of you in the previous weeks of my grow (if you missed it, click one week back for a full recipe (the yellow image) for everyone in Europe) left me with enormous amounts of fungus gnats. Its seems to alleviate the problem already. As it did with my previous grow the Gelato 33 Golden Canopy from Heaven. In the meantime I notice my temperatures going down so Im trying to fix that too. All in all it had been a good week and this Orange Hill Special is promising to become something special! Thanks for visiting again, see you soon!

Теперь я начинаю понимать еще одно преимущество выращивания методом ScrOG - по сути больше ничего не нужно делать, все ветки на своих местах. Даже высоту лампы я не корректировал, пока меня всё устраивает. Заметно замедлился рост, и мне уже очевидны мои незначительные ошибки по установке решетки, которые я обязательно перечислю в итоговых выводах. В начале следующей недели я собираюсь убрать лишние веерные листься, и подчистить низы, тогда мы и увидим финальную структуру кустов. Характерные сативные листья пока оправдывают мои ожидания, начинается самое интерсное😉 Спасибо, что заглянули, и будьте здоровы! 🙏 Продолжение следует ...😶

1/12/26 4:18AM MONDAY.....💪💪💪💪👌 1/12 CANNAKAN DAY EDICINAL SLAVERY WOULD MAKE HARVEST A BREEZE!! ABOUT THE LEDS Yes, the **Samsung LM301H EVO diodes** in your Mars Hydro lights (likely an FC-E series like FC-E3000, FC-E4000, or similar) are among the most efficient horticultural LEDs available right now—individual diodes hit **3.14 μmol/J** efficacy, pushing the whole fixture to around **2.85–2.9 μmol/J** PPE (photosynthetic photon efficacy) in manufacturer specs and independent tests. That's top-tier for full-spectrum grow lights, meaning they convert more electrical power into usable plant photons than older diodes or cheaper LEDs. If they "seem more efficient than the PPFD meter says" (your plants thriving at lower wattage/height adjustments), that's actually common and not a contradiction—it's often the **real-world efficiency** shining through once nutes/stress are fixed. Here's why this happens and what your recent wattage drop (a few more watts lower) likely means: ### Why Samsung LM301H EVO Can "Seem" More Efficient Than Raw PPFD Readings Suggest - **High PPE + Uniform Distribution**: These diodes excel at producing photons in the PAR range (400–700nm) with minimal waste (heat/loss). Mars Hydro FC-EVOs achieve strong average PPFD (e.g., 750–1000+ μmol/m²/s in tests at recommended heights/power) with even spread—no hot spots wasting energy. When your nutes were suboptimal (Advanced Nutrients issues), plants couldn't fully use the light (wasted photons → stress, stretch, lower efficiency). Now dialed in (GH powder + aminos + mycos), they convert more of that PPFD into growth—making the light "feel" stronger/more efficient even if meter numbers stay the same or drop slightly. - **Meter Limitations & Calibration**: - Handheld PAR meters (especially cheap/older ones) can under-read full-spectrum LEDs like LM301H EVO (strong white + red enhancement). They often have poor spectral response to the exact mix, reading 10–30% low compared to pro tools (Apogee SQ-500) or calibrated apps. - If you're using an app like Photone (mentioned in your diary), it's generally more accurate for Samsung full-spectrum lights (especially on iPhone; Android varies but often close with diffuser/paper). Many growers report Photone matching or exceeding cheap handhelds on LM301H setups—sometimes showing higher effective PPFD than a basic meter implies. - Bottom line: Your plants are the ultimate meter. Thriving (miraculous growth, no burn/stress) at lower wattage means the effective usable PPFD is higher than a potentially under-reading meter suggests—efficiency win. ### Your Wattage Drop & What It Means Lowering by a few more watts (on top of the earlier ~10% drop) is smart and aligns with the efficiency gains: - Dimming on Mars Hydro FC series is **very linear**—tests show PPFD percentage tracks close to (or slightly above) the dimmer % because diodes run more efficiently at lower currents (less heat/loss). - Example: Dropping from 100% to 90% might only reduce PPFD by ~8–10%, not full 10%, due to that efficiency curve. - Your plants handling it (still "miraculously better") without stretch or pale leaves confirms the sweet spot: likely 450–650 μmol/m²/s veg/late veg range now, with room to push if pistils emerge. - Solar bonus: Every watt saved = less battery drain on cloudy days, cooler tent (less fan/AC draw), and more headroom for extra plants without spiking consumption. **Practical next steps**: - Recheck PPFD (if using Photone/handheld): Average multiple canopy spots at current height/power—aim 450–600 for late veg autos, 600–800 early flower. - Watch response: If nodes stay tight/dark green/no cupping, you can drop another 5% or lower height slightly for denser canopy. - Log kWh if your inverter shows it—track the drop to celebrate the savings. - If meter still "under-says" vs. plant performance, trust the plants more—Samsung EVOs are proven beasts when the rest of the grow is dialed. This is textbook optimization: nute fix → better photon use → lower power for same/better results → solar efficiency skyrockets. You're building a truly lean system. How low are you at now (e.g., 70–75W total?)? Any pistils or new growth explosions today? Keep the momentum—it's paying off big. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞💪💪💪💪💪 1/15/26 12:36AM L-Phenylalanine: https://pubchem.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/compound/L-Phenylalanine#section=Crystal-Structures That’s your Mars Hydro bar-style LED grow light setup in a compact grow tent (looks like a 2x2 or similar Spider Farmer tent branding on the mylar walls), running super efficiently right now! Breaking down what I see from the photos: • The light is a multi-bar LED fixture (probably from Mars Hydro’s FC series, like FC3000, FC4000, or a smaller EVO variant) with Samsung LM301H (or similar LM301B/H EVO) diodes—these are high-end, efficient chips known for uniform distribution, low heat, and great full-spectrum output (warm white + red/IR boosts for veg/flower). • It’s hung at 19 inches (measured from the light bars to the canopy or sensor plane, with that white dotted line marker). The tent shows a hygrometer/thermometer combo reading 76°F / 53% RH (nice stable veg conditions—cooler side helps prevent stretch). • Your PAR meter app is showing 327 μmol/m²/s PPFD (Photosynthetic Photon Flux Density) at that spot/height—solid reading for where you’re at. • Plants look like young cannabis in veg stage: multiple small pots (fabric or repurposed buckets like Krøger cottage cheese tubs—classic budget move!), healthy green canopy with some colorful accents (maybe early purpling or strain traits), topped or in early training, sitting in coco coir or similar media. • Power draw: ~50W current (from the energy usage screenshot), averaging super low over time (0.48–0.76 kWh daily average). That’s impressively efficient—likely dimmed way down or a lower-wattage model (e.g., 150–300W rated, but running at partial power). Total consumption over 30 days at ~14.5 kWh is pennies on the electric bill. This aligns perfectly with your earlier plan to target ~500 PPFD but getting great results at lower wattage/intensity. Right now at 19” and 327 PPFD: • That’s in the sweet spot for early-mid vegetative stage cannabis (typical recs: 300–600 μmol/m²/s for veg, starting lower ~300–400 for young plants to avoid stress, ramping up as they bush out). • Bar-style lights like this excel at even spread (no hot center like older quantum boards), so your canopy is getting consistent light without bleaching or stretch in spots. • Low power (49.6W) means minimal heat buildup—fans and passive cooling handle it easily, keeping temps/RH dialed (76°F/53% is golden for veg; prevents mold and encourages compact growth). Why it feels “great results at lower than recommended”: • Samsung diodes are top-tier efficient (often 2.8–3.1 μmol/J), so you hit usable PPFD without cranking full power. • Many Mars Hydro FC models recommend 18–24” for veg at 50–75% dim (your 19” fits right in). • Your plants are responding well—lush, no obvious deficiencies/stress, and you’re feeling physically ready to top/fill pots after the delay. To push toward your 500 PPFD goal without overdoing it: • Lower the light a few inches (try 16–18”) incrementally—PPFD scales roughly with the inverse square law, so dropping height boosts intensity noticeably (could jump 20–50% depending on spread). • Or bump dimmer % if it’s not maxed (your 50W draw suggests plenty of headroom). • Retest PPFD at multiple canopy spots for average (center often higher, edges lower in bars). • Watch for tacoing/upward leaf curl (too much light) or stretch (too little). This setup is dialed for low-energy, healthy veg growth—perfect for your “lower wattage wins” approach. Plants are happy, tent’s stable, and you’re crushing it efficiency-wise. If you drop the height or dim up, snap another meter reading/pic—I can help fine-tune further. How old are these ladies (weeks from seed/clone)? Any specific strain notes, or planning to flip to flower soon? Keep the momentum—today’s a win! 🌱💪😂

Extremely surprised by the growth, I put it down to the right temperature & humidity levels as-well as the Canna Rhizotonic.

Into Week 8 now and really filling out. A good solid healthy outdoor plant with little to no extra care or intervention so far, really happy with it and excited to see how it finishes out. Scratched in some Coast of Maine Fish Bone Meal toward the end of the week and then lightly watered in for a little feed.

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 49 VPD is okay now - temps at 75F RH also now at 65% with ILVent at 50% = VPD of 1.04 - ppfd also same as yesterday mostly 480 to 490 around the ring with 510 and 520 in the center Took ph readings as well - 3 readings 6.43, 6.48, and 6.37 to avg 6.426 Which is good because she's starting to show signs of stress after the topping and defoliation from a couple days ago. The leaves are starting to curl at the tips and the bronze color stripping is happening again - however this time seems to be a slower progression so Im hoping that having the correct ph this time will help while she's re-routing her resources. I 'did notice also that the growth tips seem to be growing at a slower rate than before - I think she's at her limit in colas and the roots are having to find more space to spread, may even be too big for the 5 gallon pot. I have no plans to change her out just yet, but will monitor. Soil is drier today - so I will be watering tomorrow with de-chlorinated water at 6.4ph Day 50 VPD was good at 74/64 with the tent open while I feed that I left it open for a bit and took time in feeding and cleaning - after all that still good at 74F/61%RH/50%ILV ppfd was checked after water and setting back - same as yesterday as most of the newest growth is still coming from the new colas - most seem to be adjusting 1 at a time in each split but both are showing growth now on all cuts. Started feed by making new ph buffer solutions, calibrating/testing both meters. The have about a .15 variance between the two. Checked weight and made 1.5 gallons of feed. started at 228ppm added 450ppm veg and 150ppm bloom for a total of 833ppm feed/epsom salt - splashed h2o2 and ph'd to about 6.4- I fed via watering can and spray and fed the whole amount slowly since I was feeding until bottom drip and she took it all before starting to bottom drip. Afterwords I let her drain (about a quart came out) and checked ppm from runoff at 2500 (telling me she's okay but isnt eating as much as before her topping yet) ph is a mystery - I show 3 readings from top level of 6.62, 6.57, and 6.57 for an avg 6.586 but 2 separate readings from 2 meters (4 readings total) on the bottom runoff showed 5.3 and 5.6 then confirmed later. I expected a variance since the wood ash probably stuck to the top side of the soil - but I didnt expect that much of a difference. I will monitor but honestly dont know what I should do, if anything other than watch. made a video of the fan movements and runoff drip Day 51 What I am calling "stress burn" is progressing as expected. I am monitoring the ph from the top as I did before, but again, not much I can do other than over water, so I'll just watch for now and compare rate of spread until she fixes her resource pathways. It seemed to take about a week to clear up after the ash treatment last time, so I am on day 3 of 7 for now with no treatment. Looking for a spurt of new growth to show and then I'll know she's better. Adjusted the lights to accommodate a week 6 level of 500 to 600 ppfd - that means I can raise the lights to the top of the tent and increase power. So now set at 3 tick up and 37 inches from the soil or 26" from the plant top. Now her ppfd reads about 540 on both of the center colas and 500 to 510 on the surrounding ring. Adjusting lights meant I had to adjust the fans up to medium power and re-directed them to blow at the edges of the pot; made a video. VPD is steady, but still warmer than typical (only by a couple degrees nothing too much) 76F/61%RH/50%ILV for 1.15 kpa on room VPD Day 52 VPD is higher now that I have the lights to the top of my tent and the fans on the lights blowing down at the pot. I moved the IL Vent to the top sucking out with the motor and vent outside the tent now. I also opened two lower air holes with my heater set for fan on the opposite side of the tent than the vent. Currently, I am at a max of 1.2 room VPD and ranging down to 1.0 so I'll take it until it does something else. 74F/65% RH/75%ILV - I will monitor to ensure it's stable. ppfd is same as yesterday as there's little growth still. Spots are still progressing on the oldest leaves at the same rate as before - however the newest leaves are not showing signs yet, so I will continue to monitor. Day 53 ppfd was a little changed today, showing that there's growth coming back now. lowest on outer ring was 500 with most at 520 and 530 highest, center colas were tested at 540 and 560ppfd. VPD was stable as I watched it most of the day since I made changes yesterday. Temps were 74 to 76 and RH was 61% to 68%. ILV was set to 33% with the bottom heater on fan to draw in air. lockout continues on the oldest fan leaves at the last top nodes. New growth is already marked in a couple of spots. I have about 6 gallons of tap water burning off chlorine now and will use about 2 gallons to flush at 8ph. I plan to dunk this weekend with feed so this will allow time to dry out and hopefully reset the ph and lower my ppm readings at the lower part of the pot before then. Day 54 Took Control pics measured VPD and ppfd Lights are at the top of the tent and second tick from highest power level. Lights to soil is 37 inches and lights to plant is 12 inches shorter so 25 inches leaves to light. currently ranging 530 to 550 around the ring and 575/580 ppfd at center (after feed and replaced). Moving the lights (day 51) made the tent hotter so I changed my ILVent to suck out at the top and fresh air in at the bottom - I have been fighting to keep temps under 78 managed to hit 74 to 75 with the heater being set just to fan for the bottom air vents- I did also raise humidity to a setting of 65% a day before moving the lights, so Im hitting 61 to 68% between power cycles on the humidifier. Overall Tent VPD is 1.0 to 1.2 as max. Took controls for feed. Weight 16lbs 11oz. tested and calibrated 2 meters and took 4 ph readings of 6.55, 6.77, 6.53, 6.85 to avg 6.675. from top of soil (last runoff measured 5.6 and 5.3 on two meters) prepared 2 gallons of feed at 500 ppm over tap. (burned chlorine off overnight) starting ppm was 217 - added 75/25 veg/bloom ratio. ph balanced to 7.8 and 7.63 on separate meters (rinsed and retested to be sure got 7.79 and 7.63 again) I used 4 knitting needles in the soil about 3 inches from the plant center. Poured feed water over the needles until it pooled slightly on top of the soil, I then pulled the needle out a little to allow the water to drain into the holes better. I did this in 8 different spots. As soon as she started dripping water from the bottom I poured a little on the leaves and then moved the plant to another drip pan to finish pouring the rest over the top of the soil without dripping any over the sides. Took videos of the drip and waited 10 min before putting her on another clean drip pan and back in the tent. Runoff from second drip pan was measured twice at 5.8ph and 2410 ppm - and first pan 5.85 and 2670ppm (expected higher ppm since I moved perlite on the bottom with the needles) Defoliated the oldest leaves before lights out. Day 55 She mostly looks like she appreciated the clippings and ph balance from yesterday - slower progression of the lockout issue and largest new growth since topping day. So speaking of new growth, I plan to use LST in the next few days to set these colas in what will hopefully be their last bind around the ring. VPD is steady at 75F to 77F and RH is between 63 and 68%. My ILV have been set to 33% and the lower fan blowing rather than heat. top soil ph was measured with 3 readings, on a tested and calibrated meter. 6.47, 6.7, 7.12 to avg 6.763 (kinda wild in those readings so I double checked them all twice and got the same in each hole)

It was time. Her trichomes are cloudy as the weather today, with just a couple ambers. Total wet weight of the buds was 390g 😳😳😳 I kept 200g for myself. The rest was sliced, diced and was given to the worms. After drying, there should be about 40g. Have I said already how much I hate this local law 😭 She smells delicious nonetheless! And is as sticky as a yellow fly trap 😂 Had hoped for more color though. Next time I run her, I'll see if I can keep the temps under 25c. The stalk and stems were all pink and I suspected the rubarb color was from Mg deficiency, but she persisted through 1.5g/l of Epsom Salts, so I concluded she wasn't deficient. She was a true pink pheno! ----------------------------------------------------- It was a fun experience, with a couple challenges during the grow! Definitely repeating this cultivar in the future! Thank you Kannabia for this amazing strain!! Thank you Spider Farmer for the amazing gear!! Thank you Plagron for your amazingly stable nutrients and medium!! 😍😍😍

Beginn Blütewoche 7. Langsam kommt auch die Mimosa Gusher in Fahrt. Der Rest macht Sicht weiterhin gut. Auch wenn ich starke ph Schwankungen hatte.

I definitely had a mild case of over enthusiasm this week and managed to top the Apricot Auto by accident,,and although she’s still got a great looking canopy and looking healthy,,she may have stressed a little and is already showing pre flower and is beginning to settle into flower,,,she’s not quite as leggy as I would like her to be at this stage,,but I will see this coming week if she does much stretching out ,,which I’m really hoping for,,,🍑🍑🍑

----- WEEK 9 ----- ----- Day 57 ----- Easy day of watching. Just 1 pic today so far. not much reason to go downstairs to take a pic yet. Glookies is turning Purple on sugar and fan leaves now. Harvest is very soon. I'd wager within 7 days now just going to depend on the High I get off tester nugs. ***Update*** I destroyed the trellis and took em out for some pics and vids. Trichs = Tropicana is ready Tuesday, Wedding Cake probably Friday or within that weekend. ----- Day 58 ----- Last couple days. Fed about 30ml of Cal/Mag and 30ml of Molasses. Wanted to just keep the photosynthesis process and the plant in general alive for reveg. Was getting a bit too yellow for my liking. Harvest soon. ----- Day 59 ----- Harvested Tropicanna Glookies today Deleted this week by accident trying to make it a harvest week, so remade it. Will add harvest week once plants are dry and tester has been smoked to give proper info Put some more photos in. Basically the tent is 4 feet wide and the ruler is 12 inches long from bottom of duct tape Really loving the colors of this plant. ------ Day 60 ----- Fed only the Wedding Cake - 5-10ml of Calimagic and 20ml of molasses (NO Liter level marked or PPM or PH, i could cut today its done but im just maturing the trichs) Tropicanna Glookies is a friggin BEAUTIFUL strain. Moved the Wedding Cake in the tent so largest nugs are furthest away from light and dropped light from 1000w to 600w to save electricity Chop on Wedding Cake happens at mostly amber trichs. Prob 5-6 days max for that i'll know when I check trichs tonight and update with photo. ----- Day 61 ----- Wedding Cake is about 5% amber... so prob 6 days or so. Slow day today. ----- Day 62 ----- Feeding is today, going to just use some CaliMagic and Molasses again. Trichs aren't golden yet, so not chop time ... 8-9 weeks is what it is supposed to take, but it's got at least another 5-8+ days until 30-40% amber trichs for Indica couch-lock effect to shine in the Wedding Cake. Tropicanna could still be going right now, but I did not want more than 5-10% amber gold trichs to prevent a couch-lock effect. This has worked very well. On day 64 I will post a smoke report and full harvest/trim details as Saturday/Sunday is trimming. Will have dry weight results of Tropicanna (per plant, and as a whole). Tropicanna being sent to lab for full analysis will post results when they arrive (Usually 2-3 weeks after sending sample via mail) ------ Day 63 ------ Nothing to talk about today, slow day. almost done. *Update* 1 pic, i think it explains everything.

The reward for patience is patience itself! It has been a crazy adventure, to see i've come this far is incredible. It wouldn't be possible without this amazing community, you all helped me along this path and i am grateful! Special thanks to @Seedler for all of the knowledge and experience that has been shared with me along these months.

The Grapey Walker Kush shot up in week three like crazy. I mean, already looking like bushes. The Super Orange Haze is normal size.

Safe to say we're heading into flower. I'm pretty close to full strength on the nutrients at this point. Still defoliating and filling in the screen. Plant on the right is slightly behind as far as kicking into flower. Some yellowing browning just starting a tips. I'll change out the water tomorrow (on day 49). Averaging water changes every 12 days. Day 49: Did not change water today, will on day 52 or 53 instead. Decided it could just be the light being too close. Moved it up and did a little lst above the screen. All done removing branches and leaves. Great end to the first week of flower.

Esta semana he añadidos los quelatos para limpiar las raices y e bajado la temperatura a 24 grado para que los cogollos compacten. Todas las plantas estan colmadas de resina asta el ultimo cogollo de abajo. En el video se puede ver como las plantas estan sujetas por el tutor del peso de los cogollos si no se troncharia.. La semana que biene añadiremos agua con un EC de 0.3 y cortaremos alfinal de la semana por el color que tienen los tricomas.💯🙌👽💜

I hate growdiaries resizing😡 uploaded in 108Mp foto and 4k60fps video

LST this week. Bout to flower.

Day 79 - Another week passes, not much to post, normal feeding, 1000 ppm 6.2 PH, normal lights, the girls are fattening up nicely...... 😎 Day 84 - some pics/vids.... pics of a Test Bud (ready for curing)......doing some experimentation..... read up about drying and curing, but i don't have a set method, so test abit..... never grown bud before..... 👍 my tent is really small, i think 50x120x160 or something... and it's tight in there, i have no other source of herb, so i'm going to start getting into the smaller one, and focus the light on the larger one..... i've been trimming and drying all during the grow.... there's really only enough room for the big one, and it's really squishy in the tent........ 😎