I'm very happy I've already got 107 grams out. I still have 2 plants drying and I'm excited to see how they turn out😊😊💚

Day 35, start of week 2 in flower, everything is going great so far✌️🏼🌱 Day 37 - All the ladies are looking great✌️🏼🌱 Day 38 - ladies got watered today, looking good & starting to put off a nice smell😍 Day 40 - Still have a lot of yellowing leaves towards the bottom of almost all the plants can’t figure out exactly what’s wrong😅😅

The outdoor ladies are enjoying the nice weather and doing very well. Divine Rapier is also beginning to bloom. Unfortunately, it's supposed to rain a lot next week. We're hoping for the best!

Taken these pics and video today as im gonna start defoliation and lollipopping, such a shame visually as they look really healthy but its yime to start getting ready for those big nugs......hopefully

You walk into the back yard and it’s a straight face punch of smells. Looking like some indoor rn moved all plants to safer place in case storm hits so now I atleast have a wind break

Big Buds

Hey guys so here we are week two into flower and the tent is filling right up now got some awesome bud sights forming and my aim of 1kg dry out of the 2 plants is on course . Root structure is amazing and I have always had good results when I get the wrapped root over top as can see in pic . Anyway til next week guys

DIVINE OG KUSH / DIVINE SEEDS WEEK #17 OVERALL WEEK #4 FLOWER This week she's doing good no issues she's looking good buds are growing she's getting nice trichome coverage she's got a nice aroma going about her!! Stay Growing!! Thank you for stopping by and taking a look it's much appreciated!! THANK YOU DIVINE SEEDS!! DIVINE OG KUSH / DIVINE SEEDS

This plant couldnt have grown any easier. She had a great smell, amazing structure, branches full of buds and responded well to everything i did to her. will be growing this again.

They cut all my plant and take it. Bad friends. The yield and number of plant was higher. Unfortunately. I walk away with 500gr of 16 different strain. No trace of Super Lemon Haze

Can't wait to blazeeee Feeding💪 10/17 Water30L+Cleanse80ml+calmag@190ppm Ph6.3 Ebb 10.42/11.32/12.26/13 Clone 11.35/12.21/13.05/14 Average runoff ec1.5 Keeper 300ml per pot 10/18 Water26L+Flawless90ml+calmag@300ppm Ph6.3 Ebb 11.38/12.24/13.17 Average runoff ec1.2 ph6.5 Clone 12.38/13.56/15.20/16.10 Average runoff ec1.5 ppm750 10/19 Water26L+Cleanse80ml+calmag@200ppm Ph6.3 Ebb 11.12/11.48/12.24 Average runoff ec1.4 Clone 11.50/12.12/12.37/13.37/14.40 Average runoff ec1.3 ph6.6 10/20 Water30L+Cleanse30ml+Calmag@190ppm Ph6.4 Ebb11.42/12.22/13.20/14 Clone 12.40/13.20/14.20/14.45/15.15 Average runoff 1.2ec ph6.4-6.7 10/22 last light day 10/23 2 Pm Cut and hang Plan 21day at 23temp 55rh

Added Enhancer

Alrighty, the fun part’s over—now it’s time to dial things in. The plants seem to have used up the nutrients in the soil and now require a different feeding approach for the flowering stage. But hey, you’ve got to grow to know, and the fix is simple. From now on, I’m fertilizing once a week with BioBizz organic nutrients, following the provided feeding schedule. I’m sticking to the basic components only. I’ve also added some calcium and magnesium, as the lower fan leaves are showing signs of deficiency. Since the plants have become quite bushy, I pruned the lower third over a few sessions—spreading out the stress and avoiding cutting too much at once. Lastly, I’ve set the oscillating fan to medium intensity to prevent stagnant air. The duct fan is now tuned to maintain a VPD between 0.7 and 0.8 kPa.

144v Lux in tenebris lucet. Aristotle said "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Those who are able to refrain from judgement long enough to genuinely research and weigh the evidence from all sides of a given subject are those most likely to arrive at the truth. Those who instantly resort to knee-jerk ridicule and continue to believe whatever they were first taught are those most easily deceived. Very high light intensity can slow vertical growth. She just doesn't want to grow vertically any longer; once the flower is initiated, that goes right out the window. Apical dominance is shattered; you now have every single stem fighting for survival against each other, with none given particular precedence over another. That is some stretch for a week, explosion. Doesn't matter if they are crowded now; there is space up ahead, and plant perception will fill every inch of available space. The divine intelligence that drives plant growth is far more efficient than any canopy I could make or spread myself. No defoliation. Sometimes you just need to give her what she needs to fill the space herself. All I do is guide the initial framework into the desired outcome, keep everything else flowing and in optimal parameters. Fast-growing leaves to have a lighter green color, sometimes appearing almost yellowish-green, because they haven't had time to produce much chlorophyll yet. New leaves are soft and pale, but they will gradually darken and become a deeper green as they mature and are exposed to light. Every morning, new lime green, with the micros supercharged, may be immobilizing nitrogen in the medium, magnesium was creeping in earlier, so I'll try to hold the line and see what progresses. The ratio of sugar leaves to buds is determined by a combination of hormonal signaling, nutrient availability, and genetics. Sugar levels act as a key signaling molecule, with high sugar availability influencing hormones like auxins and cytokinins to promote bud outgrowth, while nutrient deficiencies can limit development. Specific genes also play a critical role in leaf and bud initiation, expansion, and the overall balance of growth. Buds are like balloons! Need lots of pressure to blow up lots of balloons! Sugar balloons! Plant transpiration and turgor pressure are crucial for bud development because turgor pressure provides the cell expansion needed for growth, while transpiration creates a "pull" that draws water and nutrients up through the plant to fuel this process. High turgor pressure is essential for cells to grow and expand, allowing buds to open and young leaves to unfurl. Transpiration maintains this necessary turgor by driving a continuous flow of water from the soil up to the leaves, where it evaporates. No holding back, this is it, 4-5 weeks of all-out war! What we develop now will be all we have for the final 4-5 weeks. The carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio indicates how much carbon is in a substance relative to its nitrogen, affecting nitrogen availability in soil through microbial activity. A high C:N ratio (like in straw or corn residue) requires soil microbes to use a significant amount of nitrogen for decomposition, temporarily tying it up and making it unavailable to plants. A low C:N ratio results in a more rapid release of nitrogen for plant use. The carbon-to-sulfur C:S ratio in plant residue determines whether soil microbes will immobilize or mineralize sulfur (S) during decomposition. This affects the availability of sulfate SO42, the primary form of S that plants can absorb. Mineralization is the process by which microbes decompose organic matter and release excess nutrients, like sulfate, into the soil in an inorganic, plant-available form. Immobilization is the reverse process, where microbes absorb inorganic sulfate from the soil to meet their own nutritional needs, making it unavailable to plants. Glucose typically uses more oxygen than sucrose in a medium because it can be metabolized more directly, while sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose, which can involve additional energy costs and a slower overall process. However, the efficiency of oxygen use can vary depending on the specific organism and conditions, as some bacteria, for instance, can use sucrose for a growth advantage under certain circumstances by producing exopolysaccharides that are more efficient at oxygen extrusion. Why glucose is generally more oxygen-efficient: •Glucose is a monosaccharide and can be used directly by many organisms in cellular respiration. •It does not require an initial enzymatic step to break it down before entering the metabolic pathway, unlike sucrose. •Due to its direct use, glucose can lead to a faster rate of oxygen consumption and carbon dioxide production in comparison to sucrose under typical aerobic conditions. Why sucrose might seem to use more oxygen in certain contexts: •When sucrose is metabolized, it is first broken down into glucose and fructose. This initial hydrolysis is an extra step that requires enzymes. •The fructose component is metabolized differently from glucose, and its specific metabolic pathway can affect the overall oxygen demand. •Some organisms may have regulatory mechanisms that lead to a higher initial oxygen demand when switching from glucose to sucrose, especially if the organisms have specific metabolic pathways that are optimized for sucrose. •While glucose may be used faster, sucrose might provide a growth advantage under certain oxygen-limited conditions due to the specific metabolic pathways and products it can generate. Seems my initial concept of sucrose was inaccurate. Really need to study up on all of this in the coming months. Take care. 9 To get the closest possible NPK ratio of 1-3-2 in 5 gallons of water: Add 2 tsp of the 7-4-5 Grow fertilizer Add 3 tsp of the 3-12-12 Bloom fertilizer Calcium can interact negatively with phosphorus and sulfur, add your Cal-Mag supplement to the water first if needed.

Another cold wet week. Witnessed the spiderlings band together for a few days, web making at night. Then one day the wind picked up and they all disbanded, stretched out their silk and flew away all over my yard. It was such an incredible experience to watch! I should have an army of Orb weavers come flower time. Did another top dress of compost mixed with 70/30 Gaia Green AP/PB, maybe 20Tbsp. When I pulled back the mulch I got to see all the soil creatures and roots consuming the material, this really does help build extra root zone over time. Minor defoliating, I'm keeping nodes 1, removing 2 and final top at 3 (next week) to keep her spaced, then let her stretch and trellis. Should all help fill in the canopy.

To grow shes a pleasure , looked healthy all the way to crop ,, solid buds what absolute stink , its air dryin at roof hight and im still convinced everyone can smell it ,,,, honestly am drewlin knowin i got the summer time chedder

Days 35-42 (Day 36) Some minor problems starting to arise here. A few times this week it got up to 90+ degrees which I think may have caused a bit of heat stress in some of the plants. I’m seeing a bit of cupping/crinkles on some of the fan leaves and some of the new growth is looking pretty gnarled and twisted. I hear windburn can cause this too so I’m turning my fans down to low speed. This could also be a problem with humidity so I’m going to turn off my humidifier, dim the lights and raise them. During my last feeding I mulched in some worm castings but it seems like they’re keeping the soil/coco from drying out. Pots are still decently heavy and even the surface is still quite moist but they aren’t showing any major signs of overwatering. I figure it will only be a few weeks before the castings break down so I will just leave it. A few of the plants are starting to show yellowing leaf tips which is probably some kind of micro nutrient lockout from my PH being slightly too high. It could also be from nute burn so I will water in 6.0 until I see some runoff. Although the most likely culprit is potassium excess. I’ve been feeding potassium almost as much as nitrogen so far. I know that can cause the yellowing of leaf tips by locking out trace minerals. It can also cause leaf problems like crinkling. Excess K can even cause water retention! Will water at 6.0 until run off next watering. The lst is coming along nicely. It was a good idea to remove the first two sets of branches (not leaves). Now I have 4-6 perfectly even stems coming from each plant that I plan to top one more time each. (Day 37) Today I’m going to vacuum, clean, wipe down and spray all my equipment in the tent. I’ve been letting the floor get quite dirty and I haven’t had the chance for a thorough clean since last round. I’m kind of surprised I haven’t seen any powdery mildew yet. I guess the prevention spray is working because the room has to be infected from my last crop. (Day 40) I was reading that you can foliar spray whatever you are deficient in for an immediate uptake. I‘m going to try that with my current potassium excess since it locks out trace minerals. I’m going to foliar feed a bit of phytoplankton at 15ml/L and some MagnifiCal + VeloKelp from Remo nutrients both at 5ml/L. The cal mag is not organic but as long as it’s not going into the soil and doesn’t contain chlorine I’m fine with it. I’m also going to be changing the light cycle to 18/6 for the remainder of veg. This will be their first dark cycle so they can properly foliar feed. Edit: humidity shot up to 85% a few hours after foliar spray. I went to top dress everything today and I mixed up the plants while doing so! So the ones I was unsure about I gave 1 extra tablespoon. I won’t top dress again for at least 10 days. Might give a light tea sometime next week. I also tilled the shit out of the top of each pot. It had a hard crusty layer on top that was keeping the medium from drying out properly. I’m not going to water again until everything is bone dry. Then I will water until slight runoff at 6.0 ph with some Dr. Marijane bacteria/root probiotic. I’m starting too see a lot more of these abrasions on some of the bigger fan leaves. It almost looks like thrip damage but I’m 100% sure it’s not a pest above ground. It could be bulb mites, which I found in my worm castings but I can’t check until the roots are more established in their pots. The leaves themselves are cold and feel damp to the touch. I haven’t even seen a fungus gnat since I last fed. I’m hoping it’s related to the K excess and clears up with the troubleshooting. (Day 41) Just ordered a wire cube rack to prop my plants up with and help evaporation/root warmth. Each cube is 11.8”x11.8”x11.8” and it comes with 16 cubes. So it will fit just perfectly in my 4x4. Depending on the size, I might order another one for the flower room where I would need 25 cubes.

2024-05-17 And they are in Turbo- Mode. ( explosive grow) They were growing around 30 cm, i did some training on them. but you dont see it anymore, just the topping is to see you can watch them grow, literally i think next week we will see some flowers. and they will go outdoors ( probably) just waiting for the best time reeders Info: Fatso GMO F1 Auto, a feminized hybrid strain, emerges from the crossbreeding of two autoflowering varieties: Fatso Auto and Cotton Candy Auto. This California-derived cultivar leans slightly towards sativa, offering growers a straightforward cultivation experience coupled with impressive yields, robust THC levels, and a delightful palate featuring sweet, candy, and fuel undertones. Thriving both indoors and outdoors, Fatso GMO F1 Auto exhibits above-average resistance to mold, while still benefiting from adequate ventilation, particularly in environments with higher humidity levels. Its exceptional resistance to pests and pathogens ensures hassle-free cultivation. While indoor plants maintain a compact stature of around 100cm or less, outdoor specimens can stretch a bit taller, reaching heights of up to 130cm when grown in open ground. Completing its entire lifecycle within a maximum of 75 days from germination to harvest, Fatso GMO F1 Auto delivers yields considered average yet impressive for an autoflowering strain. The combination of high resin production and elevated terpene levels renders it an excellent choice for cannabis extract production. Its terpene profile presents a sweet and funky aroma with savory hints of Skunk complemented by pine and floral notes. On the palate, it delights with flavors reminiscent of sweet candy underscored by subtle fuel undertones. With THC levels reaching a high of 24% and minimal CBD content, Fatso GMO F1 Auto delivers a balanced and uplifting effect, appealing to enthusiasts seeking a satisfying and harmonious experience.

The plants seem to develop quite well so far. Nice big leaves

60x60x120cm tent. Basic cheap one not sure what brand, if any. 200w CFL for veg, and a 250w HPS for bloom. Gonna continue with biobizz and maybe a couple of other supplements later down the road. Soil is biobizz allmix. Says pH ready so no need to adjust. Hopefully that's right!