En esta primera semana mantuve las luces muy alejadas lo que provocó un estiramiento prematuro lo que a mi gusto no me gusta mucho a sí que para la siguiente prepararé un transplante. In the very first week I kept the light so far so the it create a early grow on the structure but for me its not so good so I prepare a transplant for The next week.

used my own fish shit to do a massive watering of nutrients and microbes into the soil. added some more power bloom because I ran out of stepwell bloom amendments. should have some in next week. they are looking like they are 3 weeks into flower at week 2. grow fam, love ya!

It should be said that originally, I had planted 3 ASD and 1 Critical+ only to discover down the road that one of the ASD's was not a genetic abnormality as I thought (Even Humboldt replied back that it was a genetic anomaly. I think it's a Black Dog. Totally different plant). As we go, you'll see Black Dog suddenly appear once I had made up my mind that's what it was.

NOTE: other harvest pics will be in the week before. I can't upload everything into this week so I picked a few but I want to save space for dry bud pictures as well. If you wish to see more harvest pictures. Go to the week previous and look at the end. Chopped at day 63 with about 15% amber on the top buds and then only cloudy on the mids and lower

INTOXICATING GAS

HIGH LEVEL From EVA SEEDS 6th Jan 2020 ** Hi all I have done a couple of alterations since my last update , firstly I erected a greenhouse to cover all of my photo girls and I finally ended up transplanting plant number 2 . I ended up deciding to put her straight into the ground as I had nowhere else to put her to be honest. Since the transplant the new growth looks different than it was prior to the move. It could be completely unrelated to the transplant but if you look at pics 3&4 you will see the new growth I'm referring to. Plant 1 is really getting stinky even tho it's still in veg , just an accidental brush past her omits an incredible skunky smell which means she'll be very stinky during the actual flowering ( well that's what i reckon anyway) Plant 1 is a big girl and will almost certainly get much bigger once the flowering stretch begins next month. Thankyou for checking in and reading my latest update see you next week 👍

Hey everyone 😀. These weeks they have continued to develop very well 👍. They have made a huge leap forward since they were repotted 😃. They will be topped again this week, and will then move to the flower tent next week 😍. I am very curious to see how it will develop until next week. I wish you a lot of fun with the new update, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 🌱🍀 You can buy this Strain at : https://sweetseeds.es/de/cream-caramel/ Type: Cream Caramel ☝️🏼 Genetics: Blue Black x Maple Leaf Indica x White Rhino 👍 Vega lamp: 2 x Todogrow Led Quantum Board 100 W 💡 Bloom Lamp : 2 x Todogrow Led Cxb 3590 COB 3500 K 205W 💡💡☝️🏼 Soil : Canna Coco Professional + ☝️🏼 Fertilizer: Green House Powder Feeding ☝️🏼🌱 Water: Osmosis water mixed with normal water (24 hours stale that the chlorine evaporates) to 0.2 EC. Add Cal / Mag to 0.4 Ec Ph with Organic Ph - to 5.5 - 5.8 .

This strain has been easy to grow from the start and very quickly packed the weight on during flower, for a free seed I'm more than happy with the outcome, if you're gonna grow it give it a good 13 to 14 weeks It's quite an uplifting smoke a nice head stone

Expected to be harvesting the plants this week but they keep pushing on. Last week of flowering it is... Buds are looking heavy, hard and frosty

Day 56 This plant is clearly in a much better state than the others. The leaves are standing more firmly with a strong, healthy green color across most of the canopy. There’s no significant drooping, and overall it shows good vigor. One of the standout differences is the structure: it has developed many more internodes compared to the stressed plants. The spacing is consistent, giving the plant a dense framework with plenty of future bud sites. This compact but vigorous growth suggests the roots are functioning well and nutrient uptake is steady. While there are still a few minor signs of stress here and there, the plant overall looks balanced and much more capable of handling the transition into flowering. The canopy is filling out nicely, and it already shows strong potential for multiple tops to develop evenly. Compared to the weaker plants, this one feels “on track” — healthy, structured, and ready to keep building momentum. The priority now is to maintain stable conditions, avoid overwatering, and let the plant continue its natural growth without unnecessary interference.

🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸 Hi and welcome to another Kannabia grow! This time I’m running their Apple Fritter (feminized photoperiod). She’s going to veg under 24hr light and be manifolded. Still cleaning the rest of my Candy Cream GF (11.04.25) — going to sow the seed tomorrow (12.04.25) *been lazy, sowed on 14.04.25 🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸🍏✨🍭🌸 --- 💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭 ❗Events & thoughts worth noting❗ 💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭 12.04.25 (GW1) – Cleaning + flushing the old coco coir. Might need to add another brick. *No new brick needed ✅ This is how I recycle my coco coir — fast, cheap, no BS. 🌿 Harvest plant ✂️ Chop roots small — they stay in for structure (organic perlite) 💦 Hot water rinse — remove salts & dust 🍶 Pre-soak with light feed:   Micro 10ml   Bloom 0ml   GreenBuzz 10ml   Cal-Mag 60ml   FFJ/FPJ 10ml (new disgusting batch)   pH down (citric acid) ♻️ Media stays — Roots stay — Back in service. 14.04.25 (GW1) – Planted seed in final pot ✅ 16.04.25 (GW1) – Did last tent clean up + setup ✅📸 17.04.25 (GW1) – Seed germinated 🎉📸 — roughly 48hrs in final pot. Solid start👌♥️ 23.04.25 (VW1) – Minimal burnt tips 📸 — not progressing, not a concern. 26.04.25 (VW1) – Started using the new batch of FPJ/FFJ https://growdiaries.com/diaries/266849-grow-journal-by-yan402 30.04.25 (VW2) – Increased TriPartMicro & GreenBuzzBloom 10ml → 15ml 03.05.25 (VW2) – Increased TriPartMicro again 15ml → 20ml, topped the plant, and added final layer of clay pebbles around the base, trimmed side branches and did LST in preparation for "manifold" 📸 08.05.25 VW3 finished manifold📸 13.05.25 VW4 Increased TriPartMicro to 30ml and GreenBuzzBloom to 20ml. 15.05.25 VW4 Done defoliation and LST 📸 18-19.05.25 VW5 pruned all the shoots bellow my "mains" and did a full defoliation📸 24.05.25 VW6 increased GreenBuzzBloom to 30ml 04.06.25 VW7 did a cleanup📸 11.06.25 VW8 increase TriPartMicro to 40ml 17.06.25 (VW9) – Final structure pass 💈🌿 Did a clean perimeter prune + removed weak shoots. Ended up with 12 tops, was aiming for less, but she made the call Didn’t fight it, just shaped it the best I could Airflow’s good, structure’s stable 🛑 No more cuts until post-stretch Pics coming shortly 😘 Flip coming soon — we’ll see how she handles it. 20.06.25 VW9 Switched lighting to 12 hours, may the stretch begin 🤞 22.06.25 VW10 Did a good LST session,made some pics, and came to some conclusions and a small change of plans: Originally planned for 8 mains — long, spaced colas and maybe a couple stronger “titans” if she wanted to go that way. But she’s showing me something else, and I’m not here to fight her — just guide her. Now after stretch, I’m keeping side shoots only if they: Fill real canopy gaps Don’t crowd neighboring tops (minimum 15cm spacing) Aren’t growing into walls or toward the next plant Anything too close, too low, or heading into shade gets removed. No point forcing it. Looks like I’ll finish with 14–16 solid tops, depending on how she settles. I’m just trying to give each one enough light and space to stack properly. No overcrowding, no larf — just letting her do her thing with a bit of structure. Increased Tri Part Micro to 50ml as well. 28.06.25 VW11 one week since I flipped to 12/12 and she is stretching nicely, a bit shy in showing pistils compared to the Fantasy Feast regulars I have in the same tent. 29.06.25 VW11 increased GreenBuzzBloom 30→ 60ml 06.07.25 FW1 TriPart Micro: 50→ 30ml TriPart Bloom: 0 → 20ml Home-made FFJ/FPJ (Watermelon + Pumpkin): 10 → 30ml 12.07.25 FW1 GreenBuzzBloom 60 →40ml, TriPart Bloom: 20 → 60ml, fpj 30→60ml 19.07.25 FW3 Got some bleached tops, been out and about at job interviews and didn't notice a last minute stretch spurt 😭, should recover fine though plenty of time left 😁 22.07.25 FW3 TriPartMicro 30→20ml , TriPartBloom 60→80ml , GreenBuzzBloom 40→50ml 24.07.25 FW3 Cal-Mag 60→40ml 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 🌿 Day to day tasks & actions 🌿 🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱💦🌱 19.07.25 FW2 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 20.07.25 FW3 – Fed 5l of #1 → 2l runoff 21.07.25 FW3 – Fed 5l of #1 → 1.5l runoff 22.07.25 FW3 – Fed 5l of #1 → 1.5l runoff 23.07.25 FW3 – Fed 5l of #1 → 1.5l runoff 24.07.25 FW3 – Fed 5l of #1 → 1.5l runoff 25.07.25 FW3 – Fed 5l of #1 → 1.5l runoff 26.07.25 FW3 – Fed 5l of #1 50% strength→ 1.5l runoff (*RUNOFF reused for tomato plants) 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 Nutrients in 30L #1 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 💧 TriPart Micro: 10 → 15 → 20 → 30 → 40 → 50ml → 30 → 20ml (0.67ml/L) 🍶 TriPart Grow: 0ml (0.00ml/L) 💧 TriPart Bloom: 0 → 20 → 60 → 80ml (2.67ml/L) 🍶 GreenBuzz Bloom: 10 → 15 → 20 → 30 → 60 → 40 → 50ml (1.67ml/L) 💧 Cal-Mag: 60→40ml (1.33ml/L) 🍶 Home-made FFJ/FPJ (new batch): 10 → 30 → 60ml (2.00ml/L) 💧 pH Down: Citric acid (buxXtrade) 📦 TOTAL: 250ml per 30L 🔬 8.33ml/L 🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶💧🍶 ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️ Tools & equipment ✂️ ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️ 2× MarsHydro SP3000 ⚙️ MarsHydro 150mm ACF Ventilator ✂️ Trotec dehumidifier (big unit) ⚙️ Mini no-name dehumidifier ✂️ Kebab skewers (LST – stainless) ⚙️ Wire + roast skewers (LST assist) ✂️ Scissors (HST) ⚙️ Vacuum (for spills & cleanup) ✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ --- 🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬 Apple Fritter (Kannabia Seeds) 🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬🍏🍪🌬️🍬 Species: 50% Indica / 50% Sativa Genetics: Sour Apple × Animal Cookies THC: Up to 25% Effect: Euphoric, relaxing, creative Flavor: Sweet, fruity, pastry notes Flowering: 56–63 days Resistance: High Indoor yield: 450–500g/m² Outdoor yield: 600g/plant Structure: Strong, bushy, dense buds

This week we’ve had abit of growth not as much as I’d hoped, most of the side nodes have been ate my snails so must have stunted her a lot, I topped her few week ago and both new heads started to come out then the slugs had ate one so I’m back to 1 head and no side branches, hoping now I’ve dealt with them and won’t get attacked again and she can do her thing. We will see, was hoping to get a net over her soon to spread her out but not looking promising with no side branches left just a main head again. That’s all this week, happy growing 🌱

- The trichomes photos have been taken just before the harvest. - Drying was made at 20°C and around 50% of humidity (4 days). - Curing done with humidity in jar between 60-65%, temperature around 21°C (2 weeks). Veg time : 44 days Flowering time : 60 days Total time from seed to harvest : 108 days Height : 96cm Pot size : 26l

week intel: its time for second pruning they grew up too fast and need second pruning as below : first i remove big fan leaves and only leaves then let them rest for 1 day then the second part of pruning will get done that is removing branches based on these conditions: 1-if the branch is very low and never can make it to the top , 2- if branch is in shade even after pruning fan leaves , 3- if there are too many branches at the small space then non of them will get resources so if there is no space for branch then , they must get remove. everything is perfect! stresses : pruning big fan leaves and lower branches + a little E.C stress around 1.7 once a week feeding: i feed them 3 times this week with this order : day 1 : i feed them heavy with silicate +base nutrients(calcium & micros + Bloom) about 884 ppm - 1.7 e.c to cause a little stress. day 3 : i feed them low dose of Feeding Booster + Karbo Boost around 325 ppm - 0.6 e.c to let them recover a little but not fully recover still a little stress will caused. day 5 : i feed them with low dose of Top-Max + B-52 around 213 ppm - 0.4 e.c to let them recover the stresses to get ready for another stress next week. guide of the week : no more stresses from now on till the end and from next week i'll reduce the amount of nitrogen and calcium to below half to the end.

New week new updates smell is strong,they look great and in the best shape, even if they are growing slow a bit I don't mind it. As long they look healthy. Ghe rippin time.

The seeds were planted three days after the paper towel and the first one grew out of soil the same day.That seed was planted with its first leaves(cotyledons).

Removed autoflower and put her in her own pot outside the tent. Foliars applied in strong blue 430nm with 4000Hz tone. 20-minute dose prior to application. In essence, you're seeing a combination of the infrared light reflected by the plant, which the camera perceives as red, and any residual visible blue light the plant reflects, which results in a purple hue. I was doing more stretching of the stems, adjusting weights, just a little too much, and it snapped almost clean. I got a little lucky in that it was still connected, wrapped her almost instantly while holding her in place with yoyo's. The core framework is now in place. If your soil has a high pH, it's not ideal; you want a pH of 6.4, 6.5, or 6.6, which is ideal. If you are over a pH of 7, you have no hydrogen on the clay colloid. If you want your pH down, add Carbon. If you keep the pH below 7, you will unlock hydrogen, a whole host of new microbes become active and begin working, the plant will now be able to make more sugar because she has microbes giving off carbon dioxide, and the carbon you added hangs onto water. Everything has electricity in it. When you get the microbes eating carbon, breathing oxygen, giving off CO2, those aerobic soil microbes will carry about 0.5V of electricity that makes up the EC. The microorganisms will take a metal-based mineral and a non-metal-based mineral with about 1000 different combinations, and they will create an organic salt! That doesn't kill them, that the plant loves, that the plant enjoys. This creates an environment that is conducive to growing its own food. Metal-based: Could include elements like iron, manganese, copper, or zinc, which are essential nutrients for plants but can exist in forms not readily accessible. Non-metal-based: Examples like calcium carbonate, phosphate, or sulfur are also important for plant growth and potentially serve as building blocks for the organic salt. Chelation in a plant medium is a chemical process where a chelating agent, a negatively charged organic compound, binds to positively charged metal ions, like iron, zinc, and manganese. This forms a stable, soluble complex that protects the micronutrient from becoming unavailable to the plant in the soil or solution. The chelate complex is then more easily absorbed by the plant's roots, preventing nutrient deficiency, improving nutrient uptake, and enhancing plant growth. Chelation is similar to how microorganisms create organic salts, as both involve using organic molecules to bind with metal ions, but chelation specifically forms ring-like structures, or chelates, while the "organic salts" of microorganisms primarily refer to metal-complexed low molecular weight organic acids like gluconic acid. Microorganisms use this process to solubilize soil phosphates by chelating cations such as iron (Fe) and calcium (Ca), increasing their availability. Added sugars stimulate soil microbial activity, but directly applying sugar, especially in viscous form, can be tricky to dilute. Adding to the soil is generally not a beneficial practice for the plant itself and is not a substitute for fertilizer. While beneficial microbes can be encouraged by the sugar, harmful ones may also be stimulated, and the added sugar is a poor source of essential plant nutrients. Sugar in soil acts as a food source for microbes, but its effects on plants vary significantly with the sugar's form and concentration: simple sugars like glucose can quickly boost microbial activity and nutrient release. But scavenge A LOT of oxygen in the process, precious oxygen. Overly high concentrations of any sugar can attract pests, cause root rot by disrupting osmotic balance, and lead to detrimental fungal growth. If you are one who likes warm tropical high rh, dead already. Beneficial, absolutely, but only to those who don't run out of oxygen. Blackstrap is mostly glucose, iirc regular molasses is mostly sucrose. Sugars, especially sucrose, act as signaling molecules that interact with plant hormones and regulate gene expression, which are critical for triggering the floral transition. When sucrose is added to the growth medium significantly influences its effect on floral transition. Probably wouldn't bother with blackstrap given its higher glucose content. Microbes in the soil consume the sugar and, in the process, draw nitrogen from the soil, which is the same nutrient the plant needs. Glucose is not an oxygen scavenger itself, but it acts as a substrate for the glucose oxidase (GOx) enzyme, effectively removing oxygen from a system. Regular molasses (powdered if you can), as soon as she flips to flower or a week before, the wrong form of sugar can delay flower, or worse. Wrong quantity, not great either. The timing of sucrose application is crucial. It was more complicated than I gave it credit for, that's for sure. When a medium's carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio reaches 24:1, it signifies an optimal balance for soil microbes to thrive, leading to efficient decomposition and nutrient cycling. At this ratio, soil microorganisms have enough nitrogen for their metabolic needs, allowing them to break down organic matter and release vital nutrients like phosphorus and zinc for plants. Exceeding this ratio results in slower decomposition and nitrogen immobilization, while a ratio below 24:1 leads to faster breakdown and excess nitrogen availability. Carbon and nitrogen are two elements in soils and are required by most biology for energy. Carbon and nitrogen occur in the soil as both organic and inorganic forms. The inorganic carbon in the soil has minimal effect on soil biochemical activity, whereas the organic forms of carbon are essential for biological activity. Inorganic carbon in the soil is primarily present as carbonates, whereas organic carbon is present in many forms, including live and dead plant materials and microorganisms; some are more labile and therefore can be easily decomposed, such as sugars, amino acids, and root exudates, while others are more recalcitrant, such as lignin, humin, and humic acids. Soil nitrogen is mostly present in organic forms (usually more than 95 % of the total soil nitrogen), but also in inorganic forms, such as nitrate and ammonium. Soil biology prefers a certain ratio of carbon to nitrogen (C:N). Amino acids make up proteins and are one of the nitrogen-containing compounds in the soil that are essential for biological energy. The C:N ratio of soil microbes is about 10:1, whereas the preferred C:N ratio of their food is 24:1 (USDA Natural Resource Conservation Service 2011). Soil bacteria (3-10:1 C:N ratio) generally have a lower C:N ratio than soil fungi (4-18:1 C:N ratio) (Hoorman & Islam 2010; Zhang and Elser 2017). It is also important to mention that the ratio of carbon to other nutrients, such as sulfur (S) and phosphorous (P) also are relevant to determine net mineralization/immobilization. For example, plant material with C:S ratio smaller than 200:1 will promote mineralization of sulfate, while C:S ratio higher than 400:1 will promote immobilization (Scherer 2001). In soil science and microbiology, the C:S ratio helps determine whether sulfur will be released (mineralized) or tied up (immobilized) by microorganisms. A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio smaller than 200:1 promotes the mineralization of sulfate, when the C:S ratio is low, it indicates that the organic matter decomposing in the soil is rich in sulfur relative to carbon. Microorganisms require both carbon and sulfur for their metabolic processes. With an excess of sulfur, microbes take what they need and release the surplus sulfur into the soil as plant-available sulfate A carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio higher than 400:1 will promote the immobilization of sulfur from the soil. This occurs because when high-carbon, low-sulfur materials (like sawdust) are added to soil, microbes consume the carbon and pull sulfur from the soil to meet their nutritional needs, temporarily making it unavailable to plants. 200:1 C:S 400:1: In this range, both mineralization and immobilization can occur simultaneously, making the net availability of sulfur less predictable. This dynamic is similar to how the carbon-to-nitrogen (C:N) ratio regulates the availability of nitrogen in soil. Just as microbes need a certain amount of nitrogen to process carbon, they also require a balanced amount of sulfur. Both mineralization and immobilization are driven by the metabolic needs of the soil's microbial population. Sulfur is crucial for protein synthesis. A balanced ratio is particularly important in relation to nitrogen (N), as plants need adequate sulfur to efficiently use nitrogen. A severely imbalanced C:S ratio can hinder the efficient use of nitrogen, as seen in trials where adding nitrogen without balancing sulfur levels actually lowered crop yields. Maintaining a balanced carbon-to-sulfur (C:S) ratio is highly beneficial for plant growth, but this happens indirectly by regulating soil microbial activity. Unlike the C:N ratio, which is widely discussed for its direct effect on nutrient availability, the C:S ratio determines whether sulfur in the soil's organic matter is released (mineralized) or temporarily locked up (immobilized). Applied 3-day drought stress. Glucose will hinder oxygenation more than sucrose in a solution because glucose is consumed faster and has a higher oxygen demand, leading to a more rapid decrease in oxygen levels. When cells respire, they use oxygen to break down glucose, and this process requires more oxygen for glucose than for sucrose because sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose before it can be metabolized. In a growth medium, glucose is a more immediate and universal signaling molecule for unicellular and multicellular organisms because it is directly used for energy and triggers a rapid gene expression response. In contrast, sucrose primarily acts as a signaling molecule in plants to regulate specific developmental processes by being transported or broken down, which can be a more complex and slower signaling process. Critical stuff. During wakefulness (DC electric current) life can not entangle electrons and protons. During the daytime, the light is sensed as multiple color frequencies in sunlight. Coherence requires monochromatic light. Therefore, at night, IR light dominates cell biology. This is another reason why the DC electric current disappears during the night. The coherence of water is maintained by using its density changes imparted by infrared light released from mitochondria in the absence of light. This density change can be examined by NMR analysis, and water is found to be in its icosahedral molecular form. This is the state that water should be in at night. This is when a light frequency is lowest and when the wave part of the photoelectric effect is in maximum use. 3600

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 49 VPD is okay now - temps at 75F RH also now at 65% with ILVent at 50% = VPD of 1.04 - ppfd also same as yesterday mostly 480 to 490 around the ring with 510 and 520 in the center Took ph readings as well - 3 readings 6.43, 6.48, and 6.37 to avg 6.426 Which is good because she's starting to show signs of stress after the topping and defoliation from a couple days ago. The leaves are starting to curl at the tips and the bronze color stripping is happening again - however this time seems to be a slower progression so Im hoping that having the correct ph this time will help while she's re-routing her resources. I 'did notice also that the growth tips seem to be growing at a slower rate than before - I think she's at her limit in colas and the roots are having to find more space to spread, may even be too big for the 5 gallon pot. I have no plans to change her out just yet, but will monitor. Soil is drier today - so I will be watering tomorrow with de-chlorinated water at 6.4ph Day 50 VPD was good at 74/64 with the tent open while I feed that I left it open for a bit and took time in feeding and cleaning - after all that still good at 74F/61%RH/50%ILV ppfd was checked after water and setting back - same as yesterday as most of the newest growth is still coming from the new colas - most seem to be adjusting 1 at a time in each split but both are showing growth now on all cuts. Started feed by making new ph buffer solutions, calibrating/testing both meters. The have about a .15 variance between the two. Checked weight and made 1.5 gallons of feed. started at 228ppm added 450ppm veg and 150ppm bloom for a total of 833ppm feed/epsom salt - splashed h2o2 and ph'd to about 6.4- I fed via watering can and spray and fed the whole amount slowly since I was feeding until bottom drip and she took it all before starting to bottom drip. Afterwords I let her drain (about a quart came out) and checked ppm from runoff at 2500 (telling me she's okay but isnt eating as much as before her topping yet) ph is a mystery - I show 3 readings from top level of 6.62, 6.57, and 6.57 for an avg 6.586 but 2 separate readings from 2 meters (4 readings total) on the bottom runoff showed 5.3 and 5.6 then confirmed later. I expected a variance since the wood ash probably stuck to the top side of the soil - but I didnt expect that much of a difference. I will monitor but honestly dont know what I should do, if anything other than watch. made a video of the fan movements and runoff drip Day 51 What I am calling "stress burn" is progressing as expected. I am monitoring the ph from the top as I did before, but again, not much I can do other than over water, so I'll just watch for now and compare rate of spread until she fixes her resource pathways. It seemed to take about a week to clear up after the ash treatment last time, so I am on day 3 of 7 for now with no treatment. Looking for a spurt of new growth to show and then I'll know she's better. Adjusted the lights to accommodate a week 6 level of 500 to 600 ppfd - that means I can raise the lights to the top of the tent and increase power. So now set at 3 tick up and 37 inches from the soil or 26" from the plant top. Now her ppfd reads about 540 on both of the center colas and 500 to 510 on the surrounding ring. Adjusting lights meant I had to adjust the fans up to medium power and re-directed them to blow at the edges of the pot; made a video. VPD is steady, but still warmer than typical (only by a couple degrees nothing too much) 76F/61%RH/50%ILV for 1.15 kpa on room VPD Day 52 VPD is higher now that I have the lights to the top of my tent and the fans on the lights blowing down at the pot. I moved the IL Vent to the top sucking out with the motor and vent outside the tent now. I also opened two lower air holes with my heater set for fan on the opposite side of the tent than the vent. Currently, I am at a max of 1.2 room VPD and ranging down to 1.0 so I'll take it until it does something else. 74F/65% RH/75%ILV - I will monitor to ensure it's stable. ppfd is same as yesterday as there's little growth still. Spots are still progressing on the oldest leaves at the same rate as before - however the newest leaves are not showing signs yet, so I will continue to monitor. Day 53 ppfd was a little changed today, showing that there's growth coming back now. lowest on outer ring was 500 with most at 520 and 530 highest, center colas were tested at 540 and 560ppfd. VPD was stable as I watched it most of the day since I made changes yesterday. Temps were 74 to 76 and RH was 61% to 68%. ILV was set to 33% with the bottom heater on fan to draw in air. lockout continues on the oldest fan leaves at the last top nodes. New growth is already marked in a couple of spots. I have about 6 gallons of tap water burning off chlorine now and will use about 2 gallons to flush at 8ph. I plan to dunk this weekend with feed so this will allow time to dry out and hopefully reset the ph and lower my ppm readings at the lower part of the pot before then. Day 54 Took Control pics measured VPD and ppfd Lights are at the top of the tent and second tick from highest power level. Lights to soil is 37 inches and lights to plant is 12 inches shorter so 25 inches leaves to light. currently ranging 530 to 550 around the ring and 575/580 ppfd at center (after feed and replaced). Moving the lights (day 51) made the tent hotter so I changed my ILVent to suck out at the top and fresh air in at the bottom - I have been fighting to keep temps under 78 managed to hit 74 to 75 with the heater being set just to fan for the bottom air vents- I did also raise humidity to a setting of 65% a day before moving the lights, so Im hitting 61 to 68% between power cycles on the humidifier. Overall Tent VPD is 1.0 to 1.2 as max. Took controls for feed. Weight 16lbs 11oz. tested and calibrated 2 meters and took 4 ph readings of 6.55, 6.77, 6.53, 6.85 to avg 6.675. from top of soil (last runoff measured 5.6 and 5.3 on two meters) prepared 2 gallons of feed at 500 ppm over tap. (burned chlorine off overnight) starting ppm was 217 - added 75/25 veg/bloom ratio. ph balanced to 7.8 and 7.63 on separate meters (rinsed and retested to be sure got 7.79 and 7.63 again) I used 4 knitting needles in the soil about 3 inches from the plant center. Poured feed water over the needles until it pooled slightly on top of the soil, I then pulled the needle out a little to allow the water to drain into the holes better. I did this in 8 different spots. As soon as she started dripping water from the bottom I poured a little on the leaves and then moved the plant to another drip pan to finish pouring the rest over the top of the soil without dripping any over the sides. Took videos of the drip and waited 10 min before putting her on another clean drip pan and back in the tent. Runoff from second drip pan was measured twice at 5.8ph and 2410 ppm - and first pan 5.85 and 2670ppm (expected higher ppm since I moved perlite on the bottom with the needles) Defoliated the oldest leaves before lights out. Day 55 She mostly looks like she appreciated the clippings and ph balance from yesterday - slower progression of the lockout issue and largest new growth since topping day. So speaking of new growth, I plan to use LST in the next few days to set these colas in what will hopefully be their last bind around the ring. VPD is steady at 75F to 77F and RH is between 63 and 68%. My ILV have been set to 33% and the lower fan blowing rather than heat. top soil ph was measured with 3 readings, on a tested and calibrated meter. 6.47, 6.7, 7.12 to avg 6.763 (kinda wild in those readings so I double checked them all twice and got the same in each hole)

Hi everyone :-) This week a lot of nice things happened in the flower tent :-) Everyone looks super nice, and is growing stronger and more beautiful week by week 😍👌. The blue cheese smells like a dream ;-) As usual from this variety 👍. The kosher tangie is also very, very tasty 👏🏻. Both got Pk 13/14 this week for the last time :-) Everyone else is developing very well 👍, That will be the last diary with several strains together :-) In future everyone will come individually 👌. I wish you a lot of fun with the videos, have a nice weekend, stay healthy 🙏🏻 and let it grow 😎👌