Hallo zusammen 🤙. Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme. Sie fängt an zu riechen 🤤

It was a very good experience for me because they were most bigger and higher than when you using soil, I didn't expect that)) It was my first time when I used DWC...

Second week of veg in 40L pots

Day 8 Another day, another cm of vertical growth. The Blumat Digitals showed that the soil moisture was still in an ok range (115-131 mbar) but the topsoil was a bit dry so I sprayed each plant with 1 liter of water (pH 6.3). Day 9 The leaves are getting wider with no additional vertical growth. The right plant is noticeably larger but both look healthy. Day 10 Plants are a bit wider but all in all pretty uneventful. Day 11 Another day of the plants are getting wider but no vertical growth. The cover crop on the other hand has been growing quite a bit so I trimmed it down a bit. Day 12 The Blumat Digitals showed that the soil moisture was in the 114-162 mbar range so I gave each plant around 1.3 liters of water. Dumb as I am I forgot to pH the water though so I guess it was around 8.0 as that is where my water normally is. Oh well, gotta remember it next time. I also removed the humidity domes as the leaves of both plants started to touch the side of the domes. Day 13 The right plant is clearly larger than the left plant, being both 25% taller and 40% wider. Let's see how it progresses from here, maybe one plant is simply slower or maybe it's a different phenotype. Day 14 Not much to report except that the right plant is still growing at a fast rate while the left plant is creeping along. My girlfriend was transplanting our tomato plants today so I put a few in the tent as there was some extra space. I sure hope though I didn't bring in any silly bugs into the tent. Oh well, let's see... We keep the rest of the tomatoes and chilies under a ViparSpectra light in our front room until the weather finally gets good enough to move all the peppers and tomatoes outside.

The tricombe production on this strain is ridiculous! It looks amazing under my microscope. The heads are mostly milky coloured so this may be finishing sooner than expected. The space in the tent is getting a bit tight so I'll be glad to have more room when this lady has done her thing.

9/8 starting to look frosty, starting to ever so slightly start looking more like buds. Switched to beastie bloomz. Shes the one plant barely affected by these high winds we have. Shes a short stocky ultra durable plant producing heavy resin so far 9/10 plants filling out nicely. I lollipopped some of the lower branches that werent really producing any buds at all. Should've done it like a month ago but oh well.

I've pretty much been hands off this grow. Just letting the plants do what they want. I did a spray with insecticidal Soap which shocked some of the auto genetics. Had some leaf loss but they are bouncing back. I saw one tiny fly and wasnt worth the shock some of the susceptible plants had. Lesson learned. I havent done much more than fimmed, topped, and lsted very lightly. Testing out fimming on autos. So far the lst only autos started flowering around day 23 to 25. The fimmed autos have stayed in veg much longer and were way more resilient. They are just starting to flower or show pistil. One of the Double Grape is showing completely different pheno than the other double grape. So much that I thought it might need 12/12 to flower. However it started showing pistils a day ago. Double grape responded very well to Fim and so did the northern lights big bud auto and purple scoops. I had problems with a driver on a brand new fc3000 blowing up, mars hydro sent me a replacement driver. They then wanted to squabble about replacing the plastic piece that connects the driver to the light. Two weeks later they sent the part after I told them I had to buy an HLG cause I couldnt believe they wouldnt send me a plastic part. Then the HLG I was sent was the 65 version not the 100 but they sent me the correct light right away and my plants and the clones loveeeed the HLG 100 v2. So much so that I bought the 65 version they sent by mistake and they gave me $10 bucks off for my troubles. Even though I had to be persistent with Mars Hydro they did do me right and now both my LEDs are working. However I had a 4 by 8 of plants all stacked on one end under 150 watts for weeks trying to get this solved. I had multiple power and light issues with adding the new 4 by 8 tent that costs my plants I'm sure. I decided not to freak about it and let things go with the flow and not stress. Things will not be optimum but I learn each grow about my setup and this is my first grow in soil so learning curves. I'm feeding very small amounts of calmag and seaweed extract in each watering which is every two to three days with ro water. I started this week three when the plants showed shock from the spray. It seemed to help them recover. I'm using light warrior, ocean forest and living soil layered mix. I kept 1 king tut, 3 alien tech clones which are doing good nice and rooted directly in light warrior. Transplanted week three in 3 gal pots. Never cloned before so is a learning process.

Going towards some Dark cloudy and rainy days, but all of the 3 girls are looking veryy good beautiful! And Can really Tell now Why the breeder is called sweet seeds, because they’re really stsrting to smell soo sweet, berry kinda, especially seed 1( the darkest of Them all) but so far so good, only feeding Bloom nutes now, so i Think they’re hopefully Ready to put on some Weight 🙏🏽🙏🏽💪🏽

💩Holy Crap We Are Back At It And Loving It💩 Growmies we are at DAY 42 and she's just killing💀it👌 👉We are in full on flowering , gotta say the pink to redish hairs look amazing , not to mention the frost 👈 even the stems and branches are sticky icky 👈 OMG I LOVE THE PINK PISTOLS 👈 So Shit , I gave them just a tad to much nutes on the first few feeding 👈 But I have since fixed it So I'm still doing some low stress training 🙃 and some defolation 😳 Lights being readjusted and chart updated .........👍rain water to be used entire growth👈 👉I used NutriNPK for nutrients for my grows and welcome anyone to give them a try .👈 👉 www.nutrinpk.com 👈 NutriNPK Cal MAG 14-0-14 NutriNPK Grow 28-14-14 NutriNPK Bloom 8-20-30 NutriNPK Bloom Booster 0-52-34 I GOT MULTIPLE DIARIES ON THE GO 😱 please check them out 😎 👉THANKS FOR TAKING THE TIME TO GO OVER MY DIARIES 👈

So I started flushing this week .Next one will be harvest post

This week was very good plants look great. Flews are gone🙏 ✌️✌️ Buds grow perfect. I am very surprised, that they go so good. Hope they will stay healthy till the end.

Apr 28: all three seeds germinated strongly. Keeping the soil fairly dry this time and will focus on keeping them misted with water. Historically I watered the soil before planting the seed, but I think that likely slows down root formation as my plants always looked slow to start. So, will try it with drier soil this time to see if things start faster. Apr 30: some spring snow. May 3: plants are a bit stretchy so I’m transplanting into bigger pots. Now in 1.5 L (approximately) pots. Used Pro-Mix with about 10~15% compost. #seedsman420growoff #seedsmanseeds

Week 26/11 - 2/12

This plant was another fastbud success. Even though I struggled with climate during part of this grow,this plant managed to get big and vigorous in the end. The bud structure is not may favourite and maybe she overstretched as I was also trying things with the light. The Turps coming out of this girl are loud,smell of sour orange candy,with some floral tones. Beautiful fade with orange and purple colours with a good amount of frost.

Grow Diary – Day 88 (Flowering Day 68) Strain: Sour Frootz by Karma Genetics Plants: 4 clones Training: HST + SCROG Nutrients: Green House Feeding Bio Line – finished Lighting: LED at 50% (final phase) Date: June 8 Status: Harvest Day After 68 days of flowering and 88 days total, the Sour Frootz have reached full maturity. Today marked harvest day. Trichome Check: A final inspection confirmed the ideal moment—mostly cloudy trichomes with 10% amber, delivering the perfect mix of potency, flavor, and effect for me. Buds are fully resinous, and carry an intensely rich aroma: sour fruit, citrus, and that underlying gassy funk Sour Frootz is known for. Harvest Process: • Whole-plant harvested • Plants were cut at the base, intact, and hung upside down • Leaves were left on for a slow dry to protect terpene profile and promote even moisture loss • Drying environment set to ~17–19 °C with 50–60% RH • Complete darkness and steady airflow maintained This method should allow for a 7–14 day dry, depending on bud density and ambient conditions. After drying, a slow cure in jars will follow to fully develop smoothness, flavor, and complexity. Final Notes: • No signs of mold, pests, or stress at harvest • Natural fade complete; plants finished cleanly after flush • Aroma at harvest is deep and terpene-rich • Resin content is heavy – scissors and gloves were coated during harvest Next Steps: Drying will be monitored daily. Once stems snap, the buds will be dry-trimmed and moved into glass jars for curing (burping daily at first). Initial smoke test expected in about 10–14 days, with full cure developing over 4+ weeks.

"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).

All in all everything is fine, the only problem is these very small forms of life that do not go away, I have sprayed neem oil in the soil and they seem much less, now I have a small problem, I find myself original amnesia too high compared to the others, but the lamp has reached the end of the stroke, how do I solve it? and one last thing you advise me to do a defolation in the bottom of each plant or I leave everything like that.

We are out of week 3 and into week 1 of preflower

@twenty20mendocino Ateam R&D Update! Let’s Go!! What another great week it’s been ! Today is day 39 for all but the 2 Queen of Diamonds an 2 VSOPs got trimmed up a tied down for nice training ! Really opened them up a lot so we get all them heads hit, just wait to see how bushy these girls get, let’s get em big! Your not gonna want to miss next week’s update an see how these girls bounce back! Hope y’all enjoy Peace love and positive vibes to all y’all Cheers 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨🤙🏻

Отличный рост , ну а дальше все сами увидите на фото и видео . Радует душу , глаз и вскоре будет радовать тело :)