Se encuentra perfectamente bien. En toda su etapa no tuvo ningún problema. Los cocos ya se encuentran pesados y con muchos tricomas. En estos dias estare publicando mas imagenes de como se encue

Hi everyone, masters and beginners. This week we will use the fimming technique on these beautiful photoperiodes to promote more gems. Thanks to the Fimming Technique, The Growth Hormone Reaches All The Side Ramifications and Not Only The Main One of the Central Stem. Stay on the piece for subsequent updates

Ya se encuentra en su segunda semana de floración. Su desarrollo es muy bueno, crece rápido y fuerte. Su aroma ya se puede sentir. En estos dias estaré publicando mas imágenes de como viene.

[pt-br] Início da semana: 15/outubro Luz à 63cm de distância do vaso. 19/outubro ligado o ventilador interno. Temperatura/umidade: - 16/outubro: 26°C e 68% RH - 17/outubro: 27°C e 62% RH - 18/outubro: 26°C e 60% RH - 19/outubro: 23°C e 60% RH - 20/outubro: 23°C e 60% RH - 21/outubro: 22°C e 65% RH - 22/outubro: 25°C e 60% RH Regas: - 15/outubro - 400ml por planta com 0,5ml/L dos fertilizantes B52 e Grow A/B - 18/outubro - 500ml por planta com 0,5ml/L dos fertilizantes B52 e Grow A/B - 21/outubro - 500ml por planta com 0,8ml/L dos fertilizantes B52 e Grow A/B Fim da semana: 22/outubro

Respect for all of you, brother farmers! masters and beginners! thank you again for gathering on the pages of my diaries! we carry out our work with dedication and live on ambition! Come on guys!🙌👽🙌 WE WANTED TO CELEBRATE WITH YOU OUR 3 YEARS OF AGRICULTURE ON THE PLATFORM. GREETINGS TO THE FRIENDS OF @GROWDIARIES WHO MADE THIS POSSIBLE!

first self made clones... yeahhhh fyto lights and tents perfoming perfect. no complains at all! 3 different mothers.. hope all clones will survive. wedding gelato/ green punch and afghan og.. will what genetic will perform best for my plan to make SOG... ;)

A very healthy week 2

All feeds with nutes use either a whole ratio or combination of "Veg Mix" and "Bloom Mix"concentrates DILUTED in water until a total ppm of add in is reached using a (Total Dissolved Solids)TDS Meter measured in PPM (parts per million). The "Veg Mix" concentrate will eventually be added in smaller ratios and "Bloom Mix" concentrate what will eventually replace the "Veg Mix" concentrate entirely with the ppm and ratios listed when I feed. Veg mix recipe is on week 3. Bloom Mix recipe is on week 5. Day 28 Just a quick update for this morning since I had to move the ties a little. LST, I now have them above the 3rd node branches. Stats are normal and the growth tips are turning upward now. Stats 73F/ 63% RH /IL Vent at 33% - Lights also same as before 345ppfd highest, 330 center, and 315 at lowest. No need for adjustment. She seems to be taking the training well. Day 29 Water day - checked last night and decided it was time again - Water by weight again so no runoff to measure at about 4 cups. (4 days since last feed by weight) 13lbs even par is 15lbs 4oz so I prepared 2lbs 4oz of water. Tested my meter and discovered it needed calibration (the temp is off and cant be calibrated - so I used a trusty meat thermometer. started with 4ppm and added 300ppm of epsom and vegmix ph balanced to 6.34 at 69.8F - then splashed with H2O2. Poured around roots and splashed the stem base - sprayed some on the leaves and use the whole amount. Had to adjust lights now to be brighter so I brought them down to 18.5" and ppfd is now 375highest 360 center and 345 at lowest. VPD is normal at 1.0 with 73F /63% RH /33% IL Vent - fans are pointed to directly now as the leaves are starting to get rough feeling - so I moved them a bit to blow less directly Training is doing good nice upward turn on the training (making small LST movements with the ties other than than... just letting it make new branches. Day 30 Checked PH and got 5.0 on my meter(+1.25 tested differential = 6.25) Stats normal too - 73F /64% RH /33% IL Vent - Lights at 385highest 370 center and 355 at lowest Removed cross ties since they are no longer needed to hold the fan leaves- training still looking nice as the new nodes are formed with 2nd node leaves growing already. Day 31 Identified an issue this morning - went back through my pictures, identified the start, looked at the day before, and noted my changes that I took notes on at that time. Went to google to diagnose a few possible hypothesis and am now testing with a treatment. (suggestions from more experienced growers welcome) This morning the issue was brown spots on the older fan leaves. Mostly just the left fan leaf. Seems to have started 2 days ago (day 29) when I changed the lights and fed her. When I fed her, I left water droplets on the leaves instead of drying them off after a short time (I had been drying them with a tissue after a wet pic. The fans were also adjusted after the lights were dropped closer as well. Hypothesis: I think the water was magnifying the light and caused light stress at the those spots. I dont think the wind of the fan had much to do with it other than they helped dry the leaves faster as noted by the water being completely gone by the time I took pictures later that night for measurements. Test: Raised my lights to a max of 350ppfd (from 385 highest reading this morning) Had to adjust fans again since they rest on my lights. Will observe looking for improvement over the next few days. ... another possibility was given to me by Guru @Roberts (thank you) as it possibly being a ph issue locking out calcium. So I thought I might test ph and then try diluted cal/mag in a spray if my soil is too low (also looked at pics and seen VERY close similarities in my pics and those) and so on that advice, I tested/calibrated my soil meter (it FINALLY calibrated for me!)I found my soil was avg of 3 readings at 5.153 (5.08,5.09,and 5.29) NOT GOOD - potentially locking out most all nutes. I weighed out about 2 cups of purified water with and added about half ml of CalMag, ph balanced the water to 6.5 at 69.7F (my research shows Calcium lockout starting at 6.3 or lower) and splashed with H2O2 - I poured most around the base and sprayed the leaves too. I made sure to use the whole solution by pouring the last of the solution in the spray bottle over the stem and stem base. EOD follow-up Found a possible calcium blockade in my ph and on my leaves (of which are now starting to curl so I placed my fans on oscillate to ensure they aren't doing more damage) --- fully documented now. otherwise measurements are now documented too. -- second node is starting to pull away from the last top so I will be looking to top again (3rd of possibly 4 total) and then HST and bind in a new spot Day 32 Doing a morning and evening check her now while I see this issue resolved. So far no sign of improvement since last night - might have gotten worse in comparison (will check pics side by side today) but I think because it's a immobile micronutrient so it should take time to stop then reverse. So in the mean time I am doing a slurry test as a 2nd test for my soil before I treat it. I took soil from 3 different spots and made sure I got some from about 4 inches deep in each spot (ensured calibrations were still good with buffer tests) 1st test is a PH meter tested directly in the soil. After using the 2 cups of 6.3 yesterday I got 3 readings today = 5.47, 5.32, and 5.5 to avg 5.43 - (yesterday's readings prior to treatment were 5.08, 5.09, and 5.29 to avg 5.153) - still far below the normal 6 to 7 for soil and the requirement of 6.3 and above for calcium to enter roots. suggesting again lockout. So while I am checking the plant conditions I also looked at the new nodes - 2nd node is starting to pull away from the first, but not quite enough to top yet - thinking I will be able to top tomorrow evening - should be able to correct the ph tonight, so I can see if there's results in that by then as well. I also set the fans to oscillate last night, so here's a video for that now. Measurements, ppfd, and vpd will be in tonight's check-up Day 32 So I started this evening by testing the run off with 2 meters, 5.7 and 5.67 - prepared 1 gallon of 7.5 ph water and splashed with H2O2 (checked with both meters) Before flushing, I documented the leaves again - still curled and look very dry but they still have some flexibility with them - they dont seem to getting any worse so the spray may have gotten enough to the leaves most affected. The new nodes and growth tips seem to be okay but not growing as fast as they were. That would still mean that the soil needs treatment before the roots begin to die off and I end up with stunted growth overall. SO I flushed the whole gallon and noted the runoff from the sides and bottom. I then tested the soil directly with 3 readings 5.95, 5.8, and 5.73 for avg 5.826 and tested the runoff water with 2 separate meters for 5.91 and 5.85 Not sure if I should feed dunk in 7.5 still or just use that number on the next feed in like 3 or 4 days. will discuss Other than that ppfd highest is 360, 350 at center, and 330 at lowest. VPD was 1.0 with temp at 74F /63% RH /33% IL Vent Growth tips could be ready to top again tomorrow night, but I would like the get the ph taken care of first. Day 33 Started the day by noticing the lower branches seem to stop turning and the next level branches seemed to have finally turned but nearly as fast as the first. (Noticed them having a start yesterday) Newer branches dont have any signs of issues. So the plan today is to make Bloom Juice for later. Feed Dunk with 100% Veg Juice at a ph of 7.3 test runoff and ppm. Top the 4 nodes and remove the lower leaves. Calcium issue or not, that was always the plan with main-linning the plant. However, because of the health issues, I dont think I am going to go past these 8 colas - rather instead I will simply stop here and do some HST to set them how I want them to grow and let her recover and finish her veg for about two or three weeks. Dunk had 300ppm of Epsom, Veg juice, in a little over 3 gallons of purified water. I had 7.4 ph and splashed with h2o2. I pushed the entire plant into the water and soaked for a few seconds. Drained by hanging the pot up for about 10 minutes and the stream started dripping instead. Checked the runoff with 2 meters 6.01 and 5.93 with 2580ppm. Then I topped all four nodes and removed the fan leaves from under my mainline. I used LST to finger press the new branches apart into the direction I plan to move them to get the nodes powering up. Next I will wait for a day to do HST on those new branches. Tonight I will simply let her rest. VPD still at 1.0 - 73F /63% RH /33% IL Vent - Lights are at 365 highest, 355 center, and 335 lowest. No need to measure for growth now as I dont plan to top anymore Day 34 Early entry to day for HST the morning after topping. So I started off the morning checking stats and health. PH levels are still low. 3 soil meter tests 5.41, 5.41, and 5.44 for an avg of 5.42 - kinda at a loss here but can only monitor now. VPD and lights are mostly the same - 74F /63% RH / 33% IL Vent - VPD not relevant today as the settings are the same and I am using HST to change the plant position. leaves are noted for future reference - all four lower fan leaves have signs of calcium deficiency but not progressing nearly as fast as the first two did, so I think my attempts via higher ph water and feed may have helped. (I know the microbes in the soil are supposed to help get past ph issues , but mine seem to not be heathy) HST used a cuticle rod from my wife's nail case and a paint stick to press the rod against the branches and smash the inside of the elbows I want to bend. LST I then cut 4 strips of garden wire at the same length, hooked the ends like candy canes and aligned them about 1/2 inch above the new node and into the soil. From the side they look level but have the leaves now facing sideways. They will turn in a day or two.

Boom explosion of gas in your face this is straight gas with some awesome genetics I love when the plant wraps around the stalk all the way up like this one. Where ever as got the genetics they are on the right track. Onto bad thing is it’s taking forever to finish flowering I’m on week 11 of flower must have some wild genetics in her

Week 4 for the majority in the veg tent. Orange creampop had a rough go with the happy frog soil. Almost lost her but transplanted and she is taking off. Just topped her on 3/30.

Bubble Kush and her training were not going very well. This week, basically I fimmed the plant last week. And it had just grown straight upwards, and that's not what I really wanted. Due to that, I have decided to super crop the main stem again. Like I did with my Acapulco Gold and that worked really well. It just went absolutely crazy after I did that. So I'm hoping that it'll do the same thing with my precious Bubble Kush. She is my last seed, and I really wanna try and make the most out of her so with that in mind, I super cropped her. She's doing really well and I'm so glad that I did. Here is what I did this week. Date of super crop: 11.9.25. 12.9.25: I watered with 4L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 with; 💜 4ml Flourish PH: 6.5 PPM: 308 The fungus gnats have really incresed since I did a watering of the whole tent. I have some more sticky traps set out, and I will not water for several days. Once it has dried the top soil, I will add some more Diatomaceous Earth to the top 5cm. They are beginning to really annoy me. So lets hope I can get them under control here. I'm excited to see how she takes to the super crop, next couple of weeks should be fun 😁 Thanks for stopping by this week and hanging out in the comments! 💚😁🌱✌️🧡🤞

Bonjour à tous les padawans et les maîtres jedis Cette plante est vraiment exceptionnelle! Elle représente la force et j'en suis fier 😍 La semaine 4 est déjà la ! Ma plante est saine le LST ce passe relativement bien je l'ajuste tout les jour je le combine avec la technique du pincage d'Apex cela me permettra d'avoir une canopé plus homogène donc une meilleure pénétration lumineuse et par conséquent un meilleur rendement. Le pinçage est une pratique courante en horticulture. Beaucoup de cultivateurs l'utilisent pour améliorer le rendement de leurs plantations cannabiques ou autres. Il est souvent question de 'taille' des bourgeons apicaux. Cette taille se pratique également mais il n'est plus alors, à proprement parler, question de pinçage. A l'instar d'une taille, le pinçage va permettre de stimuler le développement des ramifications tout en préservant les sommités en vue de la floraison. Il est très utile pour uniformiser une canopée. Pour réaliser le pinçage, il vous suffit de presser 'fermement' la tige [entre le pouce et l'index] aux environs de l'apex jusqu'à sentir un léger 'crAck'. Cela aura pour résultat d'endommager les vaisseaux impliqués dans la circulation de la sève [situés dans le pourtour de la tige], la tige conserve toutefois une certaine rigidité. Pour obtenir le même résultat, il est également possible de vriller légèrement la tige sur elle-même. L'interruption du circuit d'alimentation entre le ou les apex et le reste du plant va provoquer un déséquilibre hormonal qui aura pour conséquence le développement des ramifications antérieures au point de pinçage. Jour 25 j'arrose mon pot normalement avec un quart de son volume en eau toujours avec un PH de 6.3 à cette eau j'ajoute 0.7 gramme de greenhouse feeding enhancer pour favoriser son développement racinaire. Par la suite je n'aurai plus qu'à ajuster mon LST jusqu'au stretch et surveiller mon arrosage, Je pincerai mes apex suivant la pousse de la plante pour uniformiser la canopé. Petit rappel de ce que est le LST et comment le pratiquer le plus efficacement possible: Quand commencer à appliquer la technique LST De nombreux cultivateurs commencent la manipulation dés que les plantes possèdent entre 3 et 6 nœuds ou une paire de feuilles. Durant cette première étape de la croissance, le tronc encore flexible est pliable sans risque qu’il ne se casse, même si au fur et à mesure du développement de la plante il sera de plus en plus difficile de le plier. Nous pouvons continuer à guider la croissance des branches durant toute la culture, même durant la floraison, ce qui pour cette étape représente un grand avantage face à la taille, qui n’est pas du tout recommandé une fois que la formation des têtes commence, cela stressera en effet la plante, ce qui aura pour effet de retarder la récolte. Comment appliquer la technique de guidage LST Si nous sommes prudents, la flexibilité naturelle des fibres du cannabis permet de plier leur tronc et branches avec une relative facilitée, même durant la floraison des plantes. En utilisant une corde fine, nous pouvons accrocher la pointe de la plante à la base du pot par exemple ou à un tuteur que nous aurons planté dans le substrat. Nous plierons le tronc avec précaution et nous le fixerons avec la corde, à partir de là, nous pouvons augmenter progressivement la tension de la corde, chaque jour un peu plus, jusqu’à obtenir la position souhaitée. Soyez attentif à la réaction de la plante, essayez de ne pas appliquer trop de pression sur la corde et rappelez-vous que la flexibilité des branches peut varier d’une plante à l’autre. Pour obtenir de meilleurs résultats, il suffit de suivre quelques règles simples. Pour commencer, nous devons choisir une corde fine mais pas trop pour ne pas blesser les troncs au fur et à mesure qu’ils grandissent et qu’ils deviennent plus gros. Nous pouvons utiliser des crochets en plastique souple ou de n’importe quelle autre matière flexible pour éviter d’endommager les plantes. Spécialement en intérieur, utiliser des cordons en plastique de couleur (voir les diaries de @Silky) est très pratique pour voir facilement les accroches et faciliter le travail au milieu du réseau formés par les cordes, les tuteurs, les mailles ou les supports que nous aurons dans la culture. Bien entendu, en culture extérieure et surtout en guerilla nous ferons juste le contraire et nous utiliserons des matériaux de couleur qui n’attirent pas l’attention pour que notre jardin reste discret. Pour stresser les plantes au minimum, la mieux est de réaliser ces manipulations le soir ou juste après que les lampes en intérieur s’éteignent, ce qui leur permettra de se remettre durant la nuit. Normalement, le jour suivant nous pourrons observer comme les pointes des branches que nous avons pliées se dressent de nouveau vers le haut à la recherche d’une source de lumière. Je combine un pincage d'Apex (explications plus haut) au LST cela me permettra d'avoir une canopé plus homogène donc une meilleure pénétration lumineuse et par conséquent un meilleur rendement. Que la force soit avec vous 💪

Das Wetter ist seit 14 Tagen sehr schlecht. Extremer Regen, Hagel, bedeckter Himmel. Tagsüber 15°C, Nachts runter auf 10-12°C. Der Sommer kommt ja hoffentlich noch…

Well looked at the trics and I seen about 40% ambers so I put her in dark for 2 days before I harvested her pulled her out or the dark checked the trics. again and seen zero ambers while I was confused I knew she was not ready so I had a space in my veg. Tent so I threw her in there for her last week or 2. She looks so bad as I let her dry out big time and with the ph issues I had earlier in the grow there's not a leaf on her that's not got part of it dying off. Hopefully this is last week of flower as it's week start of week 10 and I really wanna try her out although most will go to concentrates as this grow was not ideal and the frost is minimal compared to other gg4 I got flowering right now.

bislang keine probleme aufgetaucht nur ein tag ögend ein ausfäll das ich 90 % luftfeuchtichkeit hatte aber das war nicht lange aber riskant nicht jetz vor der Zielgrade