The weather's finally starting to warm up. It feels so good to have the sun out and to open the windows. With all this extra sunshine, my pound cake plant is really taking off! It's growing so fast, and it's starting to look really full and healthy. I can almost see tiny buds on the ends of the branches - maybe it'll even have flowers soon!

We are nearing the end and she looks beautiful. I will flush with plain RO water the next week or two while she ripens. I didn’t do any training to her. I have a clone from her and I cut a few leaves from the top of the meristem when she was vegging and she responded with 6-8 branches catching up with the top.

Here's the talley: 72g - Candesia [Candy Cane x Amnesia]  (top section) 112g - Candesia [Candy Cane x Amnesia] 116g - Candesia [Candy Cane x Amnesia] 119g- Candesia [Candy Cane x Amnesia] 127g - Candesia [Candy Cane x Amnesia] 184g - Candesia [Candy Cane x Amnesia] TOTAL: 730g 👍

Constructive interference is the phenomenon where two waves combine to form a new wave with a larger amplitude. This occurs when the peaks of one wave align with the peaks of another, and troughs align with troughs, causing their amplitudes to add together. For example, if two identical waves meet, their amplitudes will combine to produce a resultant wave with double the original amplitude. Constructive interference is a fundamental phenomenon based on the universal laws of nature, specifically the principle of superposition. 👋Top is a clean cut, no confusion for the plant, road ahead is clear, by completely removing the main growth tip, the auxin source is eliminated. The plant permanently halts vertical growth from that main stem and immediately sends its energy and hormones to the two new, evenly spaced branches just below the cut. Fimming slightly different because a small tuft of the top growth is left behind, the auxin disruption is temporary and less severe. The plant recovers more quickly and sends its energy to multiple surrounding growth points, often creating four or more new shoots from the same spot. It will eventually regain some vertical dominance after a few weeks if left to its own devices, but with a little more LST, bending the apex to the same height as the rest of the internodes, this shatters dominance, hopefully creating around 8-9 main shoots growing at equal height once recovered and grown out. Reduced environmental intensity for now and let her focus on dealing with this new stress for a week or two. When H+ ions are added to soil, the first nutrient displaced from exchange sites is typically aluminum (Al3+), if it's present, followed by calcium (Ca2+), magnesium (Mg2+), and potassium (K+), because aluminum and these base cations have different binding strengths. The order of displacement depends on the lyotropic series, where ions with a higher positive charge and those with weaker binding strengths are displaced first. The specific order of nutrient displacement is determined by the lyotropic series, which ranks the strength with which cations are adsorbed by soil particles: Al3+: Most strongly adsorbed, so if present, it will be displaced by H+ ions, leading to increased solubility of aluminum and potential plant toxicity. Ca2+: Displaced next, as it is more strongly bound than Mg2+ or K+ but less than Al3+. Mg2+ and K+: Displaced after Ca2+. The displaced nutrients can be lost from the root zone through leaching, becoming unavailable to plants. As H+ ions increase, the proportion of acid cations (H+ and Al3+) on the exchange sites increases, while base cations (Ca2+, Mg2+, K+) decrease, resulting in a lower soil pH. The amount of photosynthesis (water splitting) directly determines the availability of H+ ions (protons) in a plant. 90% of water is for cooling of photosynthetic apparatus the other 10% is split for its H+ among others things. Carbon sugars, like glucose, do oxidize in soil through a process primarily driven by microorganisms, which break down these sugars for energy. This oxidation converts the sugars into carbon dioxide (CO2) through cellular respiration, a key part of the soil carbon cycle, though some carbon may also be incorporated into soil organic matter. The rate and extent of sugar oxidation depend on factors like oxygen availability, the presence of Fe oxides, and soil redox conditions, which can all influence the process. My understanding of why we flush. Just plain water, what does it do? Strips the medium of salts and nutrients making it empty. What does that do? Triggers nutrient recycling within the plant. What's nutrient recycling? It is a natural part of plant senescence, which can be triggered once you know the switches. A 24:1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio will also trigger. Why won't it trigger autophagy for me? Nitrogen needs to be gone, gone, gone almost. Ammoniacal (organic) nitrogen takes 4-5 times more water to separate it from soil particles than nitrates so what happens is most people jist flush the nitrates, leave all the ammoniacal in there and this prevents autophagy initiating. Nitrogen decays differently depending on its form during the dry. Ammoniacal nitrogen will oxidize in the air, leaving no trace. But nitrates do no decay and turn volatile and smelly and remain trapped until smoked, no matter how long you cure it does not oxidize. This is why you need to trigger it and begin the denitrification process prior to harvest to get rid of all the nitrates. Otherwise, you will smoke it. Flush till autophagy begins, just make sure you add no nitrogen afterwards. Micronutrients for trichomes. Don't leave the medium empty for 2 weeks, that does nothing but reduce yield 10%ish. Trichomes are another thing. Trichomes themselves are not directly affected by flushing; rather, flushing affects the plant's nutrient uptake, which influences the development and final state of the trichomes. Trichomes are filled with antioxidants in the last weeks, which is what makes them cloudy. A lot of the processing of antioxidants requires energy and nutrients (mostly micronutrients ), so you don't want that soil empty for 2 weeks, you just want the carbon nitrogen ratio 24:1and no higher. She still wants what she needs to ripen. Processing antioxidants is energy-intensive; heat and light accelerate the rate at which THC converts to CBN. This is why you lower DLI, lower temps. By doing so, you reduce the oxidative workload caused by photosynthesis, which opens up the oxidative capacity for the production of antioxidants. THC is mostly processed at night when the plant's oxidative capacity is generally moreso "free and available" for work. Oxygen is the alchemist's "fire"

Hallo zusammen 🤙.

We have passed the month and we are madly in love with all our autoflowering plants, we have two per strain, one worked with a mainlining adapted according to the characteristics of the plant and one that grows straight, we can't easily give up the main cola. For now we will show you those worked with the techniques that are more interesting to see and later planted earlier to make them finish more or less together with those that will grow straight and fast. We really like our Green Cure CBD F1 worked with the Main Lining. It has an average interodal distance which allowed me to bend the lateral branches properly and obtain a great shape. I really like it to see. So topping at the third internode, main lining, no pruning until the third internode and topping them again so we have multiplied the buds adequately. The application of the techniques is a delicate moment also for fertilization. Topping slows down the growth of the plant a bit and does not make it require all that Grow fertilizer that is normally recommended. So you have to go really slow and understand when to reduce the nitrogen. Better to prepare the soil with fertilizers to mix with the soil probably. The problem is sweeping now that it is going into flowering, the plant has shown the first fluff, declared the sex, and the fertilizer will soon be needed indeed. You have to swell. In any case everything is under control and I will demonstrate it to you during the flowering phase. Wait for the Uncle BreadandBuds and see what he does. Remember the cold temperature makes the girls absorb food much more slowly than in summer so be careful to give the right amount and to dry the plant in maximum 2 days or you risk imbalances. We are always using soil, feeding and all the recommended additives of Plagron 100& organic we have only lowered the amount of grow in this topping phase for the reasons given above. ---- Decide on the right soil and calculate your fertilizer card based on the soil on the official website. -- www.plagron.com Try a seed of this variety that drives us crazy.. ---- https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10672-zamnesia-seeds-green-cure-cbd-f1-automatic.html Description Zamnesia // Zamnesia's breeding team has harnessed F1 genetics to bring you Green Cure CBD F1 Automatic. This autoflowering cultivar is easy to grow, accessible and reliable for all levels of experience. Ready in just 11 weeks, growers can expect impressive yields of tasty buds with a clear-headed effect that's ideal for meditative moments. All the best that mother nature can offer is on ---- www.zamnesia.com

Growing the famous Alien OG by The Cali Connection, highly recommended, not just the strain but the Breeder themselves. I will be putting alot more effort into my diaries and try to provide you guys as much detail as possible all the way until harvest. Any questions guys just ask Thanks & Happy Growing 💚👍🏾🌱

Sticky Broccoli Auto – Week 8 Update (Week 4 Flower) Overall Plant Status Week 4 of flower and things are… interesting. All 4 plants are showing excellent health overall—no visible deficiencies, strong color, and vigorous growth. However, there are some growth irregularities across the canopy. • Bud structure is developing oddly and slower than expected • One plant (back left) is showing re-veg–like traits • Another (back right) is absolutely dumping trichomes early • Front two plants appear the most “normal,” but still not bulking heavily yet Despite being labeled an 8–9 week auto, this run is clearly trending longer. Estimated finish now looks closer to 11–13 weeks, likely leaning toward the longer end. ⸻ Environment & Light Notes • UV was being applied but has now been turned OFF (3/15) to rule out stress-related responses • Light schedule unchanged otherwise • Feeding timing: • Auto irrigation ~30 min after lights on (2:30 AM) • Secondary feed mid-day (~1:30–4 PM) Observation: The re-veg–like growth (3-finger leaves, excessive leafy growth) is unusual for autos but can be triggered by: • Spectrum imbalance (UV/IR stress) • Genetic instability (more likely with some autos) • Environmental stress (though unlikely here given overall health) ⸻ Watering & Nutrients General Range This Week: • PPM: 860 → 1200 • pH: 5.7 – 5.9 • Runoff: 0% → 20% depending on day ⸻ 3/11 • 4 gallons total • Split feeding (AM + PM) • Minimal runoff initially, slight runoff later • 1200 PPM / 5.8 pH Per gallon: • .5ml Silicium Bloom • 2ml MagCal • 5ml Cocos A • 15ml Cocos B • 4ml Pure Zym • 3ml Green Sensation • 2ml Power Buds • 5ml Ruby Fulvic • 5ml Photosynthesis Plus ⸻ 3/12 • 4 gallons total • ~20% runoff achieved • Plants evened out in height • 1000 PPM / 5.8 pH (Same mix minus Photosynthesis Plus) ⸻ 3/13 • Split feeding again (AM + PM) • ~15% runoff • 1000 PPM / 5.7 pH (Photosynthesis Plus reintroduced) ⸻ 3/14 • Light defoliation + lower branch cleanup • ~15% runoff • 860 PPM / 5.8 pH ⸻ 3/15 • No feed • Observed abnormalities: • Back left plant showing re-veg–like growth (3-finger leaves, excessive foliage) • Back right plant heavily coated in trichomes • Front plants stable but slow to bulk • Action taken: UV turned OFF to troubleshoot ⸻ 3/16 • 4 gallons total • 10–15% runoff • 947 PPM / 5.9 pH Mixing order adjusted: • Silicium Bloom → MagCal → Green Sensation → Base nutrients → additives ⸻ 3/17 • 4 gallons total • Initial 0.5 gal per plant (low runoff) • Second feeding planned later • 940 PPM / 5.9 pH ⸻ Plant-Specific Observations Back Left Plant (Problem Child) • Throwing 3-finger leaves • Excessive leafy growth vs bud formation • Appears to be in a partial re-veg expression • Most likely cause: genetics or light spectrum sensitivity (UV suspect) Back Right Plant • Frost monster • Heavy trichome production early • Slightly behind on bulk but resin production is top tier Front Two Plants • Most stable phenotype • Normal structure • Slightly slow bulking but otherwise on track ⸻ Next Week Game Plan (Week 5 Flower) • Monitor re-veg plant for normalization after removing UV • Maintain: • 900–1000 PPM • 5.8–5.9 pH • Watch for: • Bud set transition → bulk phase • Consider: • Slight increase in PK (Green Sensation / Power Buds) if bulking still lags by end of Week 5

Buds are growing day by day. The smell is still weak but very pleasant. We are halfway through the flowering, so the final countdown to the final cut down will begin soon 😎

She's unstoppable. Looks like we are about to be in pre flower. It's show time.

🤤**Grow Report by Zuppler - Week 5 Flowering Phase** 🌅 Yooo, what’s good? Zuppler here with that Week 5 flowering update, straight from the capital. We’re deep in the game now, and these girls are lookin' like straight-up champs. Buds are swellin’ up nice, and the resin’s startin' to drip like syrup on pancakes, ya feel me? The canopy’s thick, them colas just stackin' higher every day. That front-left queen I mentioned last week? She’s still flexin’, lookin’ even better than before. Buds on her are fattenin' up like she knows she’s the star of the show. Definitely a keeper, no doubt about it. Environment’s still locked in tight, no changes on my end. Lights are sittin' right where they need to be, and them girls are lovin’ every minute of it. Advanced Nutrients still doin’ the trick, and the RO water’s keepin' everything clean and mean. Ain’t no issues here – just lettin’ the magic happen. Trichs are startin’ to cloud up, and the smell? Bruh, it’s gettin’ loud in here, like a bass drop in the club. We’re just lettin’ them do their thing now, and it’s lookin' like we’re on track for some serious heat. That front-left queen, she’s gonna be somethin’ special when it’s all said and done. Zuppler out. Stay hard!

2.3.2024: More of the same. "Plants" are getting bushier. 2 Nodes with the 3rd coming through. Look healthy. Top soil is dry but a few millimeters below is still moist. Once the 3rd node fully develops i'm considering topping but we'll see. Definitely can tell the Crystal Meth has a different structure then the Emerald Fire OG. I'll add pics at some point today 2.4.2024: Watered 32oz at 6.3ph. No run off. 2.5.2024: No water today. Plant is still super moist. Temp hovers around 77-79 and RH has been struggling to stay at or above 60%, even with the humidifier on and the inline fan speed at 2. I've increased the humidity output with the goal of getting it to the 60%-65% range. Leaves are getting bigger and everything is nice and green but i'm surprised at the lack of vertical growth. Its only day 17 from seed so we've got time. Just raised the light to 14 inches from soil and increase power to 50%. 2.6.2024: Moving along nicely. Plant is a little stubby. Nodes are tightly spaced when compared to the Emerald Fire OG. Perhaps thats just the difference in genetics? Raised the light again to 16 inches from soil with the hope of inducing some vertical growth. 2.7.2024: No change to current state. Struggling for lower shoot development due to fan leaves blocking light access. I couldn't help myself so i clipped the single leaves on the bottom of the plant. Probably a big mistake but it'll be a learning lesson if it comes back to bite me. Not much change in vertical growth so i'm thinking about raising the light an inch or two to see if that will help them stretch. Watered 64oz of 6.3ph. Small bit of run off, ph also at 6.3. 2.8.2024: Day 20 from seed. At the moment, the very small haircut i gave the plant didn't seem to have any adverse affect. Lamp at 14 inches from top of the plant, still at 50% power(75watts). Fan leaves are nice and full but rather stubby without much outward growth so I can't really LST or even leaf tuck. There are 3 sets of shoots that i'm struggling to give ample light. Not sure when/if to increase power and/or change height. 2.9.2024: Day 21 from seed. End of week 3. Plant looks healthy but leaves aren't as flexible when compaired to prior days. Wouldn't say crispy or brittle, just a little firmer to the touch. No nutes given yet as the FFOF still has amendments the plant is using. First sign of sex showing too.

Still Hot AF! We’re at 100F everyday. All except the jelly rancher seem fine with it. The banana mango isn’t bothered. It’s interesting the heat difference on strains. All were planted the same time July 24, for the first time high today will be 90! Not 100! Shooting up like rockets! July 27th - supercropped the banana mango and it’s crazy wide and like a huge solar array! It rained yesterday! Real, soaking, non-drought rain. The plants loved it…

Finally we are done, I spent one 10 months on Durban Poison, this is my best sativa strain and im absolutely in love. So next report will be with some Clones of Durban Poison.

🌈💐🍬🌈💐🍬🌈💐🍬🌈💐🍬🌈 Hi and welcome to another grow again from Kannabia we are talking about my second attempt at the strain Runtz Auto it's going to be a single plant diary and I'll be LSTing HSTing topping and pruning like last time. Only difference is that I’ll be trying a different nutrient schedule this time to try and avoid pH fluctuations as much as possible as the last pheno seemed a bit sensitive on pH issues, so I’ll be keeping it more simple but maybe at a higher dose let’s see what she wants. Thank you Kannabia for the chance to try out your awesome seeds 🙏🏻❤️ 🌈💐🍬🌈💐🍬🌈💐🍬🌈💐🍬🌈 💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭 ❗Events"&thoughts worth noting❗ 💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭 23.10.24(GW)(morning)The little lady popped her head above ground. 23.10.24(VW1)(afternoon)Soaked her with (*1) again, I really hope I won’t burn her, what I’m doing is not advisable but I’m a greedy man I guess, it’s all or nothing 😉 27.10.24(VW1) Add 10ml TriPartMicro to (*1) and use at next feed. 30.10.24(VW2) in the clip I’m just strengthening the main stem for her future training and not just being mean😉 02.11.24(VW2) Add another 10ml of TriPartMicro and get it to 20ml and let’s see how she reacts, use on next feed✅. 05.11.24(VW2) Topp her and prune nodes not needed and start training preparations, add clay pellets up to the first node from the bottom that I’ll keep (if possible of course)📸✅. *part of training preparation👇🏻 05.11.24(VW2) Add another 10ml of TriPartMicro and get it to 30ml and let’s see how she reacts, use on next feed✅. 08.11.24(VW3) noticed the leafs being too green nearing slight N toxicity so I’ll feed with (*1) at 50% strength the next two feeds observe and act accordingly. 09.11.24(VW3)Did first LST session and then fed her(📸) 13.11.24(VW4) She seems to be happy with nutes at 50% strength so I’ll keep it that way for another few days observe and give her a regular 100% strength feed hopefully timed right with the flowering stretch. 16.11.24(VW4) Pruned excess bud sites and defoliated (📸) 20.11.24(VW5) LST until stretch is over and maybe do one last pruning of excess bud sites just as the first bunch of pistils/buds appear. 23.11.24(VW5) Did my last major HST & LST session✅, end of the week I'm switching the diary to flowering as first pistils are visible and I'll keep on doing a light LST until harvest, might do a last pruning session though maybe middle or end of next week. 27.11.25(FW1) Did a defoliation and LST session✅📸. Noticed some leafs with brown spots📸so she seems to need a bit more PK so I dropped TriPartMicro to 20ml from 30ml and increased GreenBuzzBloom to 40ml from 30ml✅. 02.12.24(FW1) Added 20ml TriPartBloom. 💭❗💭 ❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭❗💭 🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼 🌼Day to day tasks & actions🌼 🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼 18.12.24(FW4) No feed no water 19.12.24(FW4) fed with (*1) 5l 20.12.24(FW4) No feed no water 21.12.24(FW4) fed with (*1) 5l 22.12.24(FW4) No feed no water 23.12.24(FW4) No feed no water 24.12.24(FW4) No feed no water 🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼🐝🌼 🍶💦🍶💦🍶💦🍶💦🍶 💦Nutrients in 30l(*1) 💦 🍶💦🍶💦🍶💦🍶💦🍶💦🍶💦🍶 💦TriPartMicro: 10ml*20ml*30ml*20ml 🍶TriPartBloom: 0ml *20ml 💦 Fermented🌿juice:0ml 🍶GreenBuzzBloom: 30ml*40ml 💦Cal-Mag: 60ml 🍶buxXtrade citric acid Ph- 💦🍶💦🍶💦🍶💦🍶💦🍶💦🍶💦 ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️Tools & equipment ✂️ ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ ✂️➡️2xMarsHydroSP3000 ⚙️➡️MarsHydro150mmVentilatorACF ✂️➡️Trotec (big) dehumidifier ⚙️➡️Small no name dehumidifier ✂️➡️Kebab stainless skewers 3 (LST) ⚙️➡️wire+roast beefskewers(LST) ✂️➡️trimming scissors.(HST) ⚙️➡️Waterproof vacuum cleaner for ✂️spills. ⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️✂️⚙️ 🍭🍦🍬🌈🍭🍦🍬🌈🍭🍦🍬🌈🍭 🍦RUNTZ AUTO KANNABIA 🍬🌈🍭🍦🍬🌈🍭🍦🍬🌈🍭🍦🍬 🌈Seed:Auto Zkittlez&Gelato😋. 🍭Effect: Balanced 🍦THC: 20 %. 🍬Features: For beginners 🌈Flavor: Earthy, Floral, Sweet 🍭Complete cycle: 70 days. 🍦Average height: 100. 🍬Yield: 450-500 gr/m2. 🌈🍭🍦🍬🌈🍭🍦🍬🌈🍭🍦🍬🌈,

still growing fast as fuck. i was falling more and more in love with her as time passed. she was showing signs of hunger so i gave her, her first feed of veg nutes on december 5th 2021. I mixed 1/2 tsp to each gallon. I used a bucket with 3 gallons of dechlorinated tap water. Decmber 8th: same amount of veg to gallons of water with the same 1/2 tsp. phd to 6.4. December 10th gave her a feed honestly dont know how much. id say about 10-20 cups worth of dechlorinated tap water with 1/2 tsp of veg nutes to 3 gallons.