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🌸 Flowering Week 4 – Blütenaufbau & erste Harzbildung Jetzt begann der eigentliche Blütenaufbau. Die Buds wurden dichter, die Kelche fingen an zu stacken. Erste Harzansätze waren sichtbar, besonders an den Zuckerblättern. Der Geruch entwickelte sich bereits leicht – erste Anklänge von Zitrus und Cheese. Die Pflanze wirkte stabil und vital. Ende der 4. Woche das letzte Große entlauben. Mein Weihnachtsgeschenk, der spiderfarmer bodensensor, ist auch direkt zum Einsatz gekommen.
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@Kmikaz420
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Voilà dernier jour pour la bannana x purple punch à qui j ai mis un gros rinçage ;) les couleurs sont juste folle !! Mais j espère que la plante n aura pas le goût de son odeur (elle pue un truc dingue !!) Et on en arrive à ma chérie la west coast og !!! C EST JUSTE LA SOUCHE LA PLUS BELLE A MES YEUX !!!! et de loin sérieux regarder les photo !!! Une dinguerie et l odeur vraiment terreuse de kusch avec sont retour citroné !!! T est obligé d aimer...d adoré sa!! Pour ma part c est la variété de chez fast bud qui me plaît le plus !! 1=facile à faire pousser 2= presque pas de feuilles et pas besoin de lst ou autre . 3= CRISTALLISATIONS JUSTE MAGNIFIQUE 4= ODEUR DE KUSCH MAGNIFIQUE 5= T EN A TOUBOURS PAS COMMANDÉ ? TU DECONNE;) 5= POUR UNE PLANTE PRETE EN 9 SEMAINE LA RECILTE EST VRAIMENT SYMPA ET LES TÊTES DUR COMME LA PIERRE !!! GROSSE GROSSE SURPRISE SUR CEtTE VARIÉTÉ !!! VRAIMENT
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With this thick headbud, there is a risk of getting wet and bad weather and we dont want any budrod so we cut the headbud after 66 days from seed to harvest we took away some fan leafs and hung it up to dry. the lower buds may need a few more days. Its really unbelieveble how much resin she produces. smoking report is following
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It's actually the beginning of week three. Things are moving along nicely. Not much to complain about!
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@deFharo
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Bienvenidos cultivadores de marihuana! 🖐️ 👨‍🌾 - Doce semanas desde que puse la semilla de Panamá Red a germinar! 🌱 - Diez semanas desde el trasplante a la maceta final. - Ocho semanas desde el corte apical - Cuatro semanas desde el cambio a horario de floración a 12/12H. - Tres semanas desde que comenzó la floración... a jugar! 😋 ¿Qué decir de esta mítica cepa? Ella crece con extrema fortaleza y a la vez con enorme discreción, sólo requiere la justa atención, riegos regulares y profundos cada tres días, yo le doy mezclas suaves y variadas con mis Bio Fertilizantes Orgánicos solubles, ella lo agradece mostrando brotes florales cada vez más bellos. 🌼🌼. Esta semana he quitado todas las ataduras a las ramas, una recompensa merecida! las ramas están preparadas para llenarse de enormes cogollos y soportar cualquier peso... me estoy desquitando de mi anterior cultivo de esta cepa! 😍 https://growdiaries.com/diaries/249559-zamnesia-seeds-panama-red-grow-journal-by-defharo Y por fin, hace dos días, la planta, generosamente cedió su esquina super iluminada a otra planta que necesita mucha luz para poblar sus largas ramas: https://growdiaries.com/diaries/286333-grow-journal-by-defharo Ahora Panama Red continúa su vida feliz en el centro trasero de la carpa de cultivo, un lugar calentito y bien iluminado... nada puede fallar! 🤣 😁 HASTA LA PRÓXIMA. SALUD Y SALUDOS PARA TODOS! ============================== PANAMA RED (Zamnesia): "Si te gustan los efectos eufóricos, sociales y creativos, tienes que probar la Panama Red. Esta variedad landrace sativa centroamericana te animará al instante y deleitará tu paladar con un intenso sabor cítrico. " - Genética: 100% Sativa Landrace - Tiempo de Floración: 11-12 Semanas - Hasta 350g/m² - THC: 17% https://www.zamnesia.es/10652-zamnesia-seeds-panama-red.html ==============================
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Upgraded my grow light. Did a little LST. So far its looking good. The GG4 is really slow though. But again from my research strains like this start slow but they are robust in the stretching phase soooo I will let her do her thing. On to the next week.
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Without really knowing i think its starting to look pretty good, few mistakes with the way the stem is bent.
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@valiotoro
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Hello everyone😎 Week 6 of flower for the LCC🍋🍒🍪 All the top buds harvested✂️ I had a lot of fun growing this strain🤩 The smell is absolutely out of this world…the colors…💜 I have 3 different pheno,all purple,some smells more citrus and the others more ripe cherries! One more week for the lower buds and finito I already feel nostalgic😜 *what’s coming out of the yuzu is essentials oil,every year I make Yuzucello feel free to ask me the recipe🍸🍋
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Beginning of week.. I am beginning the flush today.. I ran some FloraKleen thru the medium.. Then just watwr tomorrow.. Then FloraKleen once more the next day.. Then just water till harvest! Not even going to pH the water and I want to see if it brings up the runoff pH any.. Just for shits and giggles, I suppose. Look at those colas! Man, they are gonna be delicious! Mid week.. Wow.. These girls are maturing quick! I think I could harvest in the next couple days.. But 1 more week should do wonders! They are both neck and neck with eachother it seems.. A few ambers starting to pop up all over the top colas.. I think by next week they should be perfecto!!! So excited! I did a super late defoliation.. I know that is not ideal to do this so late.. But the humidity is getting crazy out of control at times.. It doesn't sit there very long.. But my dehumidifier is much needed. The fans should be helping combat any mold.. I hope 🤞🤞🤞 should be fine.. These are some super sense nugs! Even the lower nugs are pretty dense! So so SO excited!!! End of week... Posted a video this update.. Plants are looking great! The Mandarin Cookies is flopping all over the place lol.. I COULD harvest now.. But I'm going to wait 1 more week.. They should be perfect! That will be 10 weeks from 12/12.. As of today.. The mediums of both plants should be good and flushed by now.. I've been using unpH'd rainwater to flush (30 - 40 PPM at 7.0 pH).. And some FloraKleen (2x for both plants) and now the runoff is reading about 80 PPM at 6.8 pH for the ETHOS Cookies and about 100 PPM at 6.3 pH for the Mandarin Cookies.. Very excited for this run to be over.. Kinda wanna try a 1 plant ScrOG'd in this 2'x4' tent under the Optic Slim 320H before I swap out tents and start bustin out the autoflowers till it's cool again 😎 but I am ready to start smokin these ladies! Anyways... On to the LAST week!!!...
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Friends Growth Period about 9 Weeks, Blossoming 10 Weeks, Plant With Great Christmas Tree Structure. As far as nutrition is never said, it's never enough or more, he wants, for the rest any mold problem .... Very sweet aroma requires filter in the cultivating chamber.
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Easy strain to grow, it is true to it's name and grows some big buds. You will need to tie them up or use a trellis to keep them from dropping. Overall I am satisfied with my results with over 2 ounces per plant.
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Over all was an amazing grow, super sticky dense nugs with smell of berries, highly recommended for everyone!!
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"You will know them by their fruits" 46-47 days from germination, she fills the canopy herself, and the apical dominance is broken. It's not all about the amount of light, but the ratio too, as this will dictate growth through the ratio of phytohormones. In order for correct bud development, there needs to be a correct ratio of RGB. Different wavelengths have different penetration depths. When one grows using top-down lighting, only the entire canopy is limited to 2-3 layers of leaf, meaning there will only be correct bud development in those layers, regardless of getting 45DLI. The biomass potential of a plant is linked to root mass. Generally, when a plant reaches its maximum biomass, you can help to chop off parts of the plant that are in less than efficient areas of the plant (low light). So that it can create new biomass growing towards the light. Strength is the maximum potential, and power is the rate of conversion. You can have the biggest veg period of 18 weeks, and it means nothing, as soon as you start flower, the chronological clock starts ticking, the only metric that matters to bud size is how much energy you convert each cycle, not by how long it took you to build the framework. Each leaf is like a satellite receiver attached to an antenna called a stem; each leaf removed lowers the energetic potential of conversion. Not saying you cannot defoliate for a reason, only that you should have one, and at the right time. Don't defoliate 30+% on autoflowers or 4 weeks into the flower period and expect an increase in yields; it doesn't work like that. There is certainly room for dictating growth patterns and clearing out overcrowded nodes, but it needs to be done in veg because once that timer starts and buds start growing, it's all just energy conversion. Most grows I barely defoliate at all in a 4x4 because with side lighting, turning a 2d canopy penetration into a 3d, even lower buds are 90% the quality and density of top ones. The rate of photosynthesis and the ultimate density of lower buds aren't just about the sheer number of photons PPFD. The specific ratio of R:G:B dictates canopy penetration and drives different photochemical reactions. The Electron Transport Rate (ETR) measures the speed at which electrons are driven through Photosystem II (PSII) during photosynthesis. The ratio of Red, Green, and Blue (RGB) light heavily dictates this rate. Plant leaves continuously perform cellular respiration regardless of the time of day, using energy and oxygen to fuel essential metabolic maintenance. If you over-defoliate, the remaining canopy may be unable to produce enough net sugars during the day to offset the constant respiratory demands of the plant. Must balance fixation with assimilation; there's no point in capturing 45 DLI if you only convert 20% every cycle due to an extreme lack of respiratory capacity to perform cellular oxidative phosphorylation. A crinkle-cut French fry has more surface area. When it cooks, it has a higher capacity for energy transfer/conversion, which is what makes it slightly crispier than a regular straight-cut French fry when it comes out of the oven. You can have a 4x4 canopy or a 4x4x4 canopy. Oversimplified, but you get the idea, yes, we know that side lights are not as effective at absorption from the sides or underneath, but it's not about DLI, it's never been just about efficiency, it's about the penetration ratios of RGB that drive ETR of/photosynthesis and trigger correct bud development. The size of each bud is its own ability to perform the ETR required for its own personal growth, and bud development is dictated by the ratio of RGB. It drives localized growth and acts as a regulatory switch for that development. Turgor pressure is another very important factor in understanding if you want big buds, for it is the "steam engine" that dictates the rate of bud expansion. Simply, never going to happen playing it safe metabolically at ambient 75F. Because buds have less chlorophyll, they do not suffer from the same photosynthetic shutdown that over-exposed, light-stressed leaves do. They can soak up direct light energy to swell in density and size. Their tolerance to intense light is heavily limited by the temperature and humidity, but if you can control those temps and keep the rot away, buds have a much, much higher tolerance to high light than leaves. Beneficial to hammer with high light before trichomes appear. Balancing this with trichome maturity is key for rich terpene and flavonoid profiles, want it just right, somewhere in the middle, not too much, not too little. Find cannabis plants can defoliate themselves come harvest, given the right signals. Every last ounce of potential is recycled into buds by the plant itself (senseceance), given you can keep the level of conversion high enough to prompt a need to do so. Get the canopy @ optimal PPFD range, 45-55DLI, then let the plant "stretch" the stems into a "PPFD range much higher, one that leaves don't like to grow in, but buds thrive in. What is optimal for a bud is different than what is optimal for a leaf photosynthetically. Genes provide the blueprint, but the environment dictates how, when, and if those genes are expressed. Must first signal the condition to increase the expression you want to exist through stress and response, cause and effect. A well-buffered CEC medium prevents extreme nutrient swings, allowing plants to maximize their dedicated genetic expression. A plant is either genetically expressing "growing" or "recycling" genes based on its nutrient starvation level in the medium. Constantly toggling between "growing" and "recycling" hormonal states creates a futile cycle that wastes valuable metabolic energy. Plants rely on sophisticated biochemical switches to manage this trade-off, and prevent rapid fluctuations that disrupt that balance. This energy inefficiency is a recognized biological challenge. Plants avoid this costly "flip-flopping" by using hierarchical master regulators (like the TOR and SnRK1 protein kinases) that act as strict molecular switches. These networks enforce cellular commitment to either growth or survival, preventing mixed signals. This is something that was missing from previous grows. Under nutrient-rich conditions, TOR promotes protein synthesis, cell division, and structural expansion. Under starvation, TOR is inhibited and SnRK1 is activated. This triggers autophagy—where the plant breaks down old macromolecules and organelles to scavenge and reallocate essential nutrients to critical sinks. "What's the point in flushing?" The core idea behind a PK booster is to deliver a massive, concentrated surge of P&K exactly when buds are swelling in conjunction with a N starvation. Because these are short, targeted windows, the nutrients must be highly bioavailable so the plant can process them immediately. As soon as you go "organic," that's out the window. Much slower release, uncontrolled, very difficult to "spike". to cause the ratio that will initiate a response. High-volume PK spikes rely strictly on the immediate uptake capabilities of mineral fertilisers. Making it far less efficient in organic/living soil setups. When you use organic nutrients, it changes the dynamic with which the plant delivers and trades its nutrients; organic is always releasing new nutrients into the immediate EC. This prevents a lot of autophagic responses from occurring due to a constant stream of new nutrients into the immediate medium's EC. This can prevent nutrient starvation signalling. PK boost is essentially just N starvation, triggering an autophagic response. Concentrated ratio of P&K while tapering off the Nitrogen base. To the plant, the sudden drop in Nitrogen registers as a severe environmental stressor—essentially, the beginning of starvation protocols. She aggressively strips nutrients and proteins from older leaves and vegetative structures and shuttles them directly to the developing flowers and fruit. Ta daaa. Call it a PK booster and sell it. Nothing to do with the P and K itself, it's the ratio immediately available in the medium triggering a nutrient recycling mechanism within the plant itself; all the "booster" sells is the trigger to the signal. Very difficult to initiate a response when organic nutes are doing their thing. It takes 4x5x more water significantly to leach or wash ammonia out than it does nitrates. This alone will prevent flushing from having its normal impact. I'll be manipulating the C:N ratio in the medium instead. One autophagic response has multiple potential signal triggers. Nutrient starvation is not an option. Well, it is, just it's going to be manipulated Nitrogen starvation through Excess Carbon, instead of starving the medium entirely(EC).
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Plant has shown slow but healthy growth since its arrival, LST continues and I've managed to keep the plant at the same height it was last week but now at a horizontal angle. I did up the nutes for one feed to a slightly under recommended dose but in the days following I noticed the plant looking a little 'droopy' and since she has been with me she hasnt been drinking very well so I opted to flush her for a feed, since then she has seemed very happy :) whilst drinking much better (possible nute lock was imminent). Now back down to half doseages with the exception of CalMg (to help after flush) but will be increasing them in the following days. As of next week I will be transferring her and another plant my partner is nurturing into single bucket DWC set ups. Fingers crossed I will see some hearty results for making the crossover to hydro.
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Planta hermosa, de estructura resistente y cogollos rocosos y repletos de resina. Resistente bien el entrenamiento LST y topping, pide bastante alimentos y te recomiendo lavar bien las raíces antes de cosechar si has usado fertilizantes. Los frutos desprenden una fragancia exquisita y muy dulce.
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Die Pandora geht nun in die Haupblüte über und der Stretch scheint abgeschlossen zu sein. Man sieht ihr den Rudersliste Einschlag deutlich an, doch die Blütenbildung wirkt sehr harmonisch und sie entwickelt dicke Stigmen. 💚
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6/16 Fed today. Left out the microbe and kangaroots due to time. I'm adding the kelp me kelp you as well but it was a rush this morning. Didn't get spinosid applied last night. I found a spittle bug in it's bubbles and killed the nymph. I noticed random little munch's so that makes me think the spinosid is a good idea. Plants seem very happy. 6/17 Transplanted the rooted cuttings of 9lb kush and NYC Skunk Ape into a gallon of happy frog. From there they'll go in either a five gallon bucket, 10 gallon bag or right in the bag. Considering how late it is I think the two ten gallon grow bags would be perfect. The two Black Widow/GSC seeds kinda dried out but got transplanted to two red solo cups of happy frog. It will be interesting to see which strains do well in this harsh climate. Didn't get the spinosid sprayed and I'm unsure of I will tonight. Looks like rain. I'd rather apply when sky is clear. I love being able to do this. Every morning I start my day off right. Great boost to mental health! Internet is fucking up so I'm having difficulty loading pictures. Rrrrr 6/20 Took a bunch of pictures but forgot to add them and my internet connection is to slow to upload right now. I haven't had to water this crop only a couple times this year. Temperature shot down to 45 last night. I noticed some more WPM on the interior of some of the GDPs. Also leaf hopper damage and random munches from other bugs. I did some interior defoliation and spot treated with k bicarb and dawn. I'll attempt to upload pictures again. Black widow/GSC has germinated. 6/21 Watered the girls with the hose. Was super pressed for time so I couldn't pH the water. The hose looks like it's about 6.5 but I know it's a little more alkaline. Oh well it's what I've always used. I should've fed but again...crisis. girls look wonderful. I took a bunch of great photos but I used the app to take them and the didn't upload. On the plus side I got some older ones up. I haven't spent nearly the amount of time I usually do on my garden. However I will say the k bicarb has been stellar. Even using it as spot treatment. 6/22 FED 3 gallons today. Kept the same schedule but added a 1/4 tsp microbe brew and a 1/4 tsp kangaroots. Didn't have the kelp with me so I left it out. PM seems to be controlled pretty well. A few interior leaves were defoliated but overall things look great. Especially considering the 35-40 degree temperature swing we've been seeing. I don't really see any insect damage. I'll wait until the temps settle before I do a foliar spray.
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How big and wide she get under the evo-4 80 its crazy, i think she its the biggest one i ever grow. And how dark she turn with the Master recepi from advanced nutrients its amazing. Love that stuff as well
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@FCFLOWER
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It's looking great. Good grow this week from all plant. Took some leafs off for more light on stem and reduce humidity.