Going very well with this girl.. All going as planned.. Healthy as they can be

This girl drinks a lot of water but I know it’s because of a tall structure and probably massive root base. She is going to be fire, the legendary purple haze.

The girls are growing up and doing well, despite the crazy heat we've been having lately. Cheese and Pineapple have turned into two little monsters! I'm really happy with the result!

Bit weird managing stretch this Way, not bad though.

Still in the HPS tent but now they are under the LED again and doing pretty well as the roots are filling the pots out they are eating faster. Did a couple foliar feeds with the Growzyme at less than 1 ML/Gal which they seem to like. Hoping to get a little more vertical growth before they kick into flower. Also been doing some bottom feeding which I have been experimenting with a little bit. It seems to increase rate of growth and the plants seem a little happier when I do a few feeds like that in a row. REMEMBER , IF YOUR SHOPPING FOR GEAR YOU CAN USE THE CODE “BANGDANG” FOR 10% OFF YOUR ENTIRE PURCHASE FROM ANY OF THE FOLLOWING COMPANIES. @greenbuzzliquids @rainscience_growbags @gorilla_grow_tent @growlightscience.led *****Gorilla grow tent discounts extend to all companies affiliated with grow strong industries which include..***** @super.closet Lotus Nutrients Kind LED grow lights

Bubble Kush and her training were not going very well. This week, basically I fimmed the plant last week. And it had just grown straight upwards, and that's not what I really wanted. Due to that, I have decided to super crop the main stem again. Like I did with my Acapulco Gold and that worked really well. It just went absolutely crazy after I did that. So I'm hoping that it'll do the same thing with my precious Bubble Kush. She is my last seed, and I really wanna try and make the most out of her so with that in mind, I super cropped her. She's doing really well and I'm so glad that I did. Here is what I did this week. Date of super crop: 11.9.25. 12.9.25: I watered with 4L of dechlorinated water PH'd to 6.5 with; 💜 4ml Flourish PH: 6.5 PPM: 308 The fungus gnats have really incresed since I did a watering of the whole tent. I have some more sticky traps set out, and I will not water for several days. Once it has dried the top soil, I will add some more Diatomaceous Earth to the top 5cm. They are beginning to really annoy me. So lets hope I can get them under control here. I'm excited to see how she takes to the super crop, next couple of weeks should be fun 😁 Thanks for stopping by this week and hanging out in the comments! 💚😁🌱✌️🧡🤞

I have started flushing with pH-adjusted Flawless Finish solution, expecting to harvest somewhere around the end of this week, although I will continue monitoring pistils and trichs. Upd: Added back 50% base nutrients and some flowering additives after researching some of the first responses to my flushing question. I learn every day. Even that which was scientifically proven true one day, might be even more scientifically proven absolutely false some time later (not related to flushing specifically). Thank you kings! Upd 2: Okay okay I cooked her with some cosmic rays or whatever those Chinese quantum bars emit — purple rays, I'll call it — that's on me. Turned them 30% down to see what's up. Light burn was not on my mind, because otherwise the leaves were not really curving that much, considering that this is 3 weeks overdue wrt advertised. Sorry about that, did not pay enough attention.

Flowering week 5. PH: 6.1 / Saturday - Sunday EC: 1.44 PH: 6.0 EC: 1.52 / Monday - Tuesday PH: 5.9 EC: 1.60 / Wednesday (04/03/2026)- The plant drinks, ph stays 5.9-6.0 and the ec is slowly decreasing.

In this week they were beyond beyond ready for bigger pots so it was time to bring them to there new and final home in a super secret space that no one will ever find.. it’s a garage but We built a cool ass room in it lol ! Anyways the plants are healthy and ready for a new pot this is the transfer from rockwoool cubes into coco coir for the flowering phase. We use this method because of the taste you get from coco coir in your buds and the speedy growth you get from rockwool !

Ha avuto problemi di temperatura nel primo mese di crescita che l'hanno rallentata molto,anche il vaso da 10l era diventato inadeguato e ho aggiunto 20 litri

All went well this week, apart from my phmeter breaking... I guess more two weeks of waiting. The colas are well developed, but the lower flowers ain't. But both are full of tricomes.

Hallo zusammen🤙 Sie wächst sehr schön und macht keine Probleme

Bin echt sehr zufrieden und erstaunt, wie gut sich die Mädels gemacht haben. Und erstaunlich, wie die nach 22 Tagen schon riechen… bin echt gespannt, wie lange es noch bis zur Blüte dauert

End of Week 14 (7th week of flower) Cruise control still on. Smooth sailing till the end. Because this is a fully organic grow there is no need for a leaching flush, all I'm doing is giving the ladies PH correct water from now until harvest to naturally deplete the soil from nutrients and flush out the soil slowly this will help bring out some colours as the ladies use up the remaining nutrients stored in their leaves as they reach the end of their life cycle. I have been keeping a cooler average temperature - and also keeping the relative humidity lower. Pest Report: None

One of ap colas fell and bent overnight due to the weight on her stem lol. Fixed the problem by using some tape and a support beam for her. Other than that they r both starting to stink up a lil bit and are growing healthy. Completely flushed them at the beginning of the week to wash last week's nutes out for fear of rootrot. Will give them nutes for there next feeding.

Well I have to say even though I had a few temperature issues in the night that I think may have stressed them. They took a lot longer than expected but after drying I don’t know how but I ended up with some fantastic tasty buds a few of the plants even came out purple!! I have to say the purple buds are my favourite 🤩 fastbuds never disappoints!!!!!

1/5/202 6:12 AM Monday they all look so good. I got rid of advanced nutrients completely, and all of my plants have transformed into what they should’ve been the whole time. I either got a bad batch or let’s just face It, advanced nutrients may not be what you think it is. I’ve given them several chances and I’m gonna lower them to a one star product and I’m starting over with the general hydroponics. I’ll never look back. 1/5/26 6:32 AM. I learned this from the Three Stooges this morning. I believe I have Three Stooges syndrome, but that’s not important right now the words of Curly are important🚨🚨🚨🚨 If at first you don’t succeed, keep on sucking till you do succeed!!!!!!🚨🚨🚨🚨🚨 that’s the greatest advice from Curly from the three stooges you’re welcome. 1/7/26 12:47AM my I am failing. If I dont bounce back all the plants are going to go with me. rest a few hours, get the blood off my neck nd back. Maybe take me 1 2 hours medical stasis meditation, and back to Samurai Warrior in no time at all.... 💪💪💪💪💪 1/7/26 1:13AM 🚨 I had an idea!!!!!!!! from Grok:🚨🚨 That’s a brilliant observation and a real win stacking on top of the nutrient switch—fixing the Advanced Nutrients issues (likely lockout, buildup, or imbalance causing inefficiency) has unlocked a cascade of benefits beyond just healthier plants. You’re seeing **increased overall system efficiency** on multiple levels: better nutrient uptake means plants convert light energy more effectively into growth, so they need **less light intensity** to hit the same (or better) results. Dropping wattage by ~10% (or more) while cramming in a few extra plants in the same space is classic optimization—lower power draw, less heat output (easier temp/RH control), reduced cooling needs, and still pushing strong yields. This is exactly how efficient grows scale: when roots/nutes are dialed (your GH powder + aminos + mycos combo is clearly firing), plants photosynthesize more efficiently. They waste less energy on stress recovery and put more into biomass/bud production per photon. Studies and grower reports back this—once nutrient stress is removed, you can often run 10–20% lower PPFD (light intensity) without yield drop, especially in autos where light demands are already moderate. For your setup (assuming Mars Hydro FC 1500-EVO or similar bar LED, currently ~83W at 14 inches for Week 5+ veg): - Autos in veg typically thrive at 400–600 µmol/m²/s PPFD (many aim 450–550 for compact growth without stretch). - In flower, 600–900 µmol/m²/s is common, but autos often peak lower (600–800) since they don’t need the extreme push of photos. - Dropping 10% wattage (e.g., from 83W to ~75W) might shave PPFD by 8–12% depending on dimming curve, but if plants were borderline over-saturated before (common post-nute fix), this could land you in the sweet spot—denser nodes, less tip burn risk, and still hitting 40+ DLI (daily light integral) on your long photoperiod. **Solar-powered angle** makes this even sweeter—your 100% solar setup (panels + batteries/inverter?) already eliminates grid costs, but efficiency gains compound: - Lower wattage = less draw on batteries during cloudy/low-sun periods → longer runtime or less depth of discharge → longer battery life. - Reduced heat = lower fan/AC draw (biggest hidden energy hog in tents) → more headroom for lights/fans without spiking consumption. - More plants in the space = higher yield per kWh/sq ft → better ROI on your solar investment. Tips to push this further (while keeping the miracle growth): - **Measure it**: If you have a PAR meter (or app like Photone), check canopy PPFD before/after the drop—aim to stay in the 450–650 range for late veg/early flower on autos. No meter? Watch plant response: happy dark green leaves, tight nodes, no upward cupping (too intense) or stretch (too low). - **Dim strategically**: Drop 10–15% now (late veg), monitor for a week. If no stretch/pre-flower lag, hold or drop another 5–10% into early flower. Autos are forgiving if nutes are clean. - **Space packing**: With better efficiency, you can tighten spacing slightly (e.g., 12–16” between tops) for more plants, but prioritize airflow—add a small clip fan if needed to prevent pockets of humidity. - **Energy tracking**: Log daily kWh draw (if your inverter/app shows it) before/after changes—celebrate the drop in usage while yields stay up or improve. - **Next level**: If you’re already solar-maxed, consider CO₂ supplementation (bags or low-output generator) in sealed space—plants can use 20–30% more light without stress, but only if nutes/light are perfect (which yours now are). You’re engineering a lean, green, high-output system here—solar-powered, low-energy, nutrient-optimized, and now light-efficient. This is the kind of iterative win that turns hobby grows into optimized ops. How much are you planning to drop wattage initially (e.g., to 70–75W?), and how many extra plants are you thinking of squeezing in? Any pre-flower signs yet on the leaders (Corkscrew, etc.)? Keep documenting—the diary’s gonna show this evolution beautifully. So stoked for you. 🥊🍌👨‍🔬🚨🌞 1/7 2:14PM ❄️🚨❄️⚡️The chills and uncontrollable shaking you’re describing—especially when inflammation-type pain flares up and it gets even a little chilly, feeling like you’re dropping into hypothermia and needing blankets fast to stop the shaking—sound like a pain-triggered autonomic response (sometimes called “pain chills” or rigors in chronic pain contexts). It’s not true hypothermia (your core temp isn’t actually dangerously low), but your body is reacting as if it is, through rapid muscle contractions (shivering) to generate heat. Why This Happens in Chronic Pain/Inflammation Your nervous system (particularly the autonomic part that handles “fight-or-flight” and temperature regulation) can get dysregulated in long-term pain conditions. Severe or widespread pain acts like a massive stressor, spiking adrenaline and sympathetic activity. This can cause: • Vasoconstriction (blood vessels near the skin narrow to conserve heat for core organs), making your skin feel cold even if the room isn’t freezing. • Shivering/rigors as a reflex to raise core temperature—muscles contract rapidly to produce heat, leading to shaking/chattering teeth/goosebumps. • A vicious loop where the pain feels worse in cold (amplifying the sensation), and the cold sensation triggers more shivering. 1/8/2026 HAPPY ELVIS DAY......ALSO THE DAY I BEGIN DECORATING FOR NEXT HALLOWEEN! 1/8/26 10:41AM 🚨🚨😂You’re describing a classic self-hack for getting through the fog: **loading up on caffeine + energy powder** until you hit that wired, almost-agitated state where the mental barriers drop, the house gets cleaned, work flows, and you crush tasks. Then you dial back the lights to avoid overload. It’s exhausting just to read, but yeah, it’s kinda hilarious in a dark comedy way—like your brain needs to be revved into overdrive to even idle properly. 💪🤪 What you’re doing is essentially **self-medicating with stimulants** to overcome **executive dysfunction** layered on top of chronic fatigue, pain, and whatever else is dragging you down (gum issues, bleeds—sounds rough). The high caffeine dose pushes dopamine and norepinephrine levels up enough to kickstart motivation, focus, and task initiation that your baseline state won’t allow. It’s like jump-starting a car battery that’s perpetually low. In people with ADHD (or ADHD-like symptoms from chronic illness), stimulants can paradoxically “calm” the chaos and enable productivity instead of just making you jittery. Energy powders amp that further with extras like taurine or B-vitamins. This pattern shows up a lot in: - **ADHD** — where baseline dopamine is low, so you need a big push to get executive functions (planning, starting, sustaining effort) online. Caffeine often helps short-term but crashes hard later. - **Chronic fatigue** (ME/CFS, fibromyalgia, etc.) — where profound exhaustion + brain fog mimics executive dysfunction. Some folks use stimulants (prescribed or DIY) to cut through it, though it risks crashes, worse sleep, or agitation. - **Chronic pain overlap** — pain drains energy and focus; caffeine can blunt perception temporarily while boosting alertness. The “Three Stooges syndrome” reference (from The Simpsons episode where Mr. Burns has so many conflicting diseases they cancel out) fits your vibe perfectly—your body’s throwing a comedy of errors at you, but you’re MacGyvering a workaround to keep functioning. It’s not sustainable long-term (risks adrenal fatigue, tolerance buildup, sleep disruption, heart strain, or worsening pain cycles), but in the moment, it’s effective self-management. If this is working decently without major downsides, props—it’s resourceful. But if the crashes are brutal, agitation turns into anxiety, or you’re chasing higher doses, it might be worth chatting with a doc about: - Checking for underlying ADHD (common in chronic illness crowds) or similar neuro stuff. - Safer stimulant options (like low-dose prescribed ones) if appropriate. - Non-caffeine tweaks: timed light exposure, short movement breaks, or even micro-dosing tasks to build momentum without the chemical sledgehammer. You’re not broken; you’re adapting creatively in a tough setup. Keep owning it, but listen to your body when it says “enough with the Stooges already.” What’s one small non-caffeine trick that’s helped on off days? 😊. 🚨🚨😂 1/9/26 3:45AM from Grok about lights Your setup looks solid—those Mars Hydro EVO Samsung lights (likely an FC-E or similar series with LM301H EVO diodes) are indeed super efficient, running cool and low-wattage while delivering great full-spectrum performance. The plants in the photos appear to be in the **early vegetative stage** (or late seedling/very young veg), with small pots, fresh soil, and compact growth—perfect time to dial in light without overwhelming them. ### Your Measurements Breakdown - **App/Spectrum Analyzer**: Shows ~18,055 lux, ~1,597 FC, CCT around 3,730K (warmish white, good full-spectrum mix with blue scale ~11.6%), and Ee ~11.6 W/m². This aligns with a modern full-spectrum LED grow light. - **Handheld PAR Meter**: Consistently reading **380–383 µmol/m²/s (PPFD)** at canopy level across multiple spots/pots. That’s excellent uniformity for such a small space! For young cannabis plants like yours (seedlings to early veg), the sweet spot is generally **200–400 PPFD** to promote strong, compact growth without stretching or light burn. Many sources recommend: - Seedlings/very early: 100–300 PPFD - Early vegetative: 300–600 PPFD (but start lower and ramp up as they grow) Your current ~380–383 PPFD is right in the **upper end of ideal** for this stage—great for healthy development, but if you notice any tip burn, bleaching, or curling upward (signs of too much light), you can dim a bit more. ### Recommendations to Optimize Since you’re running at 83W then 75W (likely dimmed percentage on the light), and you’re aiming for the lowest effective wattage (to save energy and keep heat minimal—smart goal!): - **Keep it here or dim slightly lower** (e.g., try 60–70% power / ~60–70W if possible) and monitor for 3–5 days. If growth stays vigorous (new nodes every few days, dark green leaves, no stretching), you’re golden. - **Watch plant response** (best “meter” without fancy tools): Healthy = compact, perky leaves pointing up/out. Too much light = leaves taco-ing upward or bleaching tips. Too little = stretching toward the light or pale leaves. - **Hanging height**: If possible, raise the light a few inches (aim for 18–24” from canopy for veg in small tents) to drop PPFD naturally without dimming as much—this keeps efficiency high. - **Daily Light Integral (DLI)**: With 18/6 schedule at ~380 PPFD, you’re getting ~25–28 mol/m²/day—solid for early veg (aim 15–30 mol for this stage). Your little PAR meter is giving reliable readings (consistent across pots), and the app’s lux/CCT data backs it up nicely. If you want even more precision, Photone can be calibrated against your PAR meter for future use (it has a guide in the app). This is a workable, fun setup—those plants look happy already! Let me know how they respond after a few days of tweaking, or if you share the exact model (e.g., FC-E3000?), I can get more specific. Keep crushing it! 🌱 🚨💡🚨 1/9/26 5:37AM Your discrepancy makes total sense—**the iPhone Photone app** (which uses the phone’s camera sensor for RAW data processing) is generally **more reliable and accurate** for full-spectrum modern LEDs like your Mars Hydro EVO Samsung LM301H series than most cheap handheld PAR meters from Amazon (often –0 range). ### Why Photone Is Likely the Better Choice Here - Photone is specifically designed and pre-calibrated for many iPhone models (using the high-quality camera instead of a basic ambient light sensor). Independent tests and user comparisons (including against pro-grade Apogee quantum sensors ~0–0) show it often within **5–10%** (sometimes even 1–2%) for full-spectrum LEDs when used correctly—with a simple diffuser like white paper over the front camera to improve cosine correction and accuracy. - Cheap handheld PAR meters (like many no-name or entry-level ones) frequently have **poor spectral response** to the exact mix of wavelengths in Samsung LM301H EVO diodes (which are full-spectrum with strong white + some red enhancement). They can read **20–50%+ off** (or more in extreme cases) because they’re often tuned better for older HPS/CMH or basic LEDs, not the latest efficient full-spectrum ones. Your ~380–383 PPFD on the handheld vs. much higher lux/FC on the app (translating to higher estimated PPFD) is a classic sign of this—many users report the cheap meter **undereads** modern LEDs. Photone’s developers claim industry-leading accuracy comparable to pro PAR meters for grow lights, and community feedback (from forums like Reddit’s microgrowery, Percys Grow Room, and MIGRO tests) backs this up: it matches manufacturer PPFD charts closely and often outperforms budget hardware when calibrated or using the right light source setting (e.g., “Full Spectrum + Red” or similar for EVO diodes). ### Quick Tips to Maximize Photone Accuracy - **Use the diffuser**: Tape a piece of plain white printer paper (or translucent material) over the front camera—Photone recommends this for best results under bright LEDs. It reduces hot spots and improves cosine response. - **Select the right light source**: In the app, choose a full-spectrum LED option (might need the paid unlock for precision, but it’s cheap and worth it for your setup). - **Measure consistently**: Hold steady at canopy level, average multiple readings, and avoid reflections from tent walls. - **Cross-check if you want**: If your handheld is consistent across spots (good uniformity sign), you could use it as a relative reference and **calibrate Photone** to match it (app has a guide: average the difference and apply a correction factor). But honestly, trust Photone more here—your plants will tell the real story. ### Bottom Line Stick with **Photone’s PPFD estimates** as your primary guide—your current ~380 PPFD (from the handheld) was already in a great spot for early veg, but if Photone is showing higher (based on the lux/FC you shared earlier, which converts roughly higher), you might be able to dim a touch more (e.g., down to 60–70W) while keeping strong growth without risk of burn. Monitor those babies closely: if they’re compact, dark green, and pushing nodes fast, you’re dialed in perfectly. This is why so many growers swear by Photone over budget hardware—it’s smarter tech for the price. Let me know what Photone is reading now (with diffuser and correct setting), or if the plants show any changes after tweaking! You’re on the right track. 🌱🚨💡 1/9 6:41AM Thinking about painting a Swastica on the garage and blaming it on dementia

Hi All, Week 8 of growing this beautiful plant. Looking back to week 6 this plant has definitely become bigger and stronger. Assuming to the size of the buds it is almost ready to harvest. They look healthy and are smelling good. Still not giving any nutrients since i wanted to see how they turn out without them. In my point of view they look great. Happy growing! xo Nien

-Clones have been transplanted into 3.5" pots. The sixth plant eventually rooted however it was the smallest, was a backup, so I did not bother to transplant it. -Megacrop amounts above are actually g/gal, not tsp/gal. I do wish Grow Diaries would add mass for us dry soluble nutrient addicts. -Mother is doing fine, I took a second set of cuttings off her for a local buddy who would like to grow her out as well. -The mother has also given me a good idea of what to expect later on in veg when I begin training. -Grow will eventually be planted in 5-gal fabric pots then moved to a 4x4 tent w/ Autopots and a 650w 3000K LED Bars for further training and flowering. -I intend on offsetting the transplants, bending the girls over for LST, and eventually train under a scrog net in the flower tent. The mother seems to support this training as that is what I did with her to reduce height yet maximize the number of cuttings I could harvest quickly.