Day 50 😍welcome to week 7 😃👌 Day 51 i like the colorchange 😍🙏👍 Day 52 everything seems to ok 😃🙏👍 Day 53 and a long weekend 😎🙏👍 after 3 weeks a new SF SE3000 has to build in 💪😃👌 Day 54 after 4 weeks with SE1500 LED i upgrade today to SE3000 from Spider Farmer 💪😃👌 Day 55 massive leave cuttings in the morning and after that nutrients 😵 we will see whats happens next 🙏

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Donutz Final Report - Harvest Week After just over 8 weeks of flowering, the Donutz have been harvested, marking the end of an incredible journey. The plants have gone from vibrant, healthy beings to dense, sticky buds that will soon be ready for consumption. Key Updates: Harvest Time: After monitoring the trichomes closely, it was time to harvest the Donutz plants. The buds had reached their peak maturity, with trichomes showing a perfect mix of cloudy and amber hues. Final Observations: The purple phenos added some amazing color to the grow, and the smell was out of this world, like a sweet bakery in full swing. The buds are looking promising, and now it’s time to cure and enjoy the fruits of this beautiful grow. Next Steps: Harvest & Cure: The buds are drying and will soon be placed into jars to cure. It’s now a waiting game to allow the flavors and potency to develop fully. Smoke & Harvest Review: The official harvest and smoke review will be coming in about 10 days, once the buds have been properly cured. The journey from seed to harvest was a success, and the Donutz are looking great. Now, we await the final review to see how they smoke after curing! Zuppler out. Thanks for following.

WW2 collapsed on itself and I didn’t notice for 2 days lmao... oops. All is well though I tied the buds up and added some support to help them stand. The other Northern Lights has been harvested and dried, and is just entering curing now after a week and a half. Even after just a few days of jar time it’s got an amazing scent and flavour. I think I dried WW#1 too much by burping too often and too much or something, smell is super light and bud is now pretty dry. However, it’s extremely smooth, has a good smell (just light). And it absolutely kicks my ass! WW#2 in the tent has nice looking buds considering how yellow and defoliated she is super impressed! The last NL has some funky buds going on compared to the last. Fox railing and such. Doesn’t bother me any but I’m wondering if it’s a sign of stress or genetics?

I haven't trimmed or dried the buds yet so I am looking forward to see the end results and updating my diary soon. Update: 240g of dry bud weight, not bad at all. I think the light helped a lot and should the issue of lockout not occurred half way through the growth then I'd reckon it would have been a lot bigger. Never the less, a great high and couch relaxing adventure. Mint and outdoor smell to it nice taste and denser buds now dried

Hello everybody 👋🏻 today full moon 🌕. I put the seed in a tupper on top of the router where it gives a good temperature😊. I will put the led at half power (400W) during vegetation and at full power (800W) in flowering. Blue Cheese Auto Blue Cheese Auto from Barney's Farm is a variety classified as indica / autoflowering, it will take longer to make more than the other cars in the catalog but it will surprise us when we finish its cultivation for its incredible quality. In an interior it is a large producer and not only a central truncheon, but it will have multiple satellites surrounding it with bright and compact buds. Putting 4 plants per focus we will extract the maximum potential, which we will have to tutor so that they do not double the weight; get ready to see 500g dry when doing a manual job. In outdoor crops it is ideal for hot climates, where we will get the best harvests when there is the strongest summer sun. The size that usually reaches is good, up to the meter; production is also reflected in the high compaction of this genetics, up to 50-80g dry for each car. It has average resistance to the attacks of pests and fungi so it is better to perform biological preventive treatments during the first 20 days. Type: Feminised Photoperiod: Autoflowering Cultivation INTERIOR / EXTERIOR Genetics Blue Cheese x Ruderalis Indoor Productivity (g) 500 gr / m² Productivity Average (g) 500 Autoflowering Harvest Time from Seed (days) 70 - 75 Height (cm) 80 / 100cm Height in Interior (cm) 100cm % Indica 80% % Sativa 20% Indica / Sativa Mostly Indica Medical No Mold Resistance (5 = Maximum) 4 Resistance to Botrytis (5 = Maximum) 5 Resistance to the cold (5 = Maximum) 5 Oidium Resistance (5 = Maximum) 4 Resistance to Red Spider (5 = Maximum) 4 Warm weather % Stable Stability Difficulty of Growth (5 = Difficult) 1 Bio Tabs Now fertilizing your plants will be much easier; we only have to add the Bio Tabs and the other components that are included directly in the pot when we plant, and the rest of the crop will only add water to our pots. In the middle of the crop you have to apply an irrigation with Orgratrex and Bactrex to reinforce the biological activity and that's it. We will have plants as always, the most productive and tasty, totally organic and without having to worry about excess nutrients or fertilize them. Dosage and how to use the Starter Pack of Bio Tabs step by step: Fill our pots to about 3/4 and add 3g of Mycotrex for each pot, no matter the size. More or less are 3 tablespoons of coffee rasas. Then we add another 25g of Startrex (which comes to be 2 tablespoons) every 5L of soil, so if we have 10L of pot then 50g and so progressively. We stir well to mix with our substrate and just fill the pot of earth. Then we make the hole to transplant our plant to the final pot, and in that hole you have to throw another 2g of MycoTrex into the hole itself and we can now transplant our plants. Then we have to add your Bio Tabs tablets, every 5L of earth a tablet on the substrate, if we have 10L then two tablets ... You have to bury them closer to the edge of the pot than in the center. They are buried about 5 cm deep in the substrate and we will have our plants fertilized for weeks. We make a mixture with the last component that remains when we plant, Bactrex. Add 1g to a liter of water and give the first watering with that mixture. From now on, you only have to water with water until the 5th week. At the 5th week, we will have to contribute a new help to our plants, we will add 20ml of Orgatrex and 1g of Bactrex in 500ml of water and stir well. Water only with that half a liter a plant and only once. Add water until the end of the crop, that's that easy.😋👏🏻👏🏻 Biobizz light mix With Light Mix of BioBizz we will be 100% sure of having bought one of the best lands available for your seeds. Saving on the ground is one of the worst mistakes we can make, since we are starting a job that the final result is to seek the highest quality and production. To think that is where the plant will have to live all its days of life so it will have to be of the best possible quality. With Light Mix you will have an excellent substrate, as each land has a different formula and composition, we will find out who will best resist this substrate, according to the climatic conditions where we are going to plant. It is characterized by its high proportion of water / oxygen retention, this soil pulls more towards water retention so it will be perfect for all those who live in warmer areas avoiding having to water the pots so often, it retains a lot of humidity. We will have to be careful with the first days of our plants so as not to soil the land too much, otherwise the roots will not shoot as they should and you could even drown your plants, this advice is worth all the autoflowering genetics that are more sensitive to root problems and excess irrigation. This sack of earth comes very light of nutrients, so this substrate should provide practically nutrients in all phases of the crop from the second week. Composition: Peat moss Perlite Ec: 1.2 Ph: 6.2

Easy trim✂️ The buds are solid like a diamond 💎💍 The smell : citrus pine & rosemary🍋🌲absolutely divine super fresh it’s a one way to the Mediterranean Sea☀️✈️

Guys, it's week 8 and the Purple seem to be ready to be at the en of flowering stage... I am really excited, but so afraid of doing a mistake... I Will now flush her for 1 week of two maybe depending on me receiving my microscope on time! For the amazing master KUSH, it is going well for the big one, budding seriously. Her Lil sis is not going that well we'll see! Enjoy my little video, if you like it please let me know and hit the like button :) Love and peace ✌️✌️✌️

Tipped and pruned fan leaves they were huge! Rub smells like candy. Will flower it in a week or so.

Day 57. All goes the best for this girl. How she looked on third week and now - is very nice improvement. Strain is very strong and resiliant to growers mistakes ;))) Mars Hydro TS1000 is dimmed to approximately 80%, great light no doubts , BUT i think i found one issue. That cover sink makes air circulation harder and it looks like she produces a lot more heat when is running on max output. Will take surface thermometer from work next week to check this. Ill post denial if i was stupid, but looks like 240W quantum runs colder than 150 upside down sink version. Yesterday girl got 3 liters of pure 6.3 ph water. No feeding in plans for at least two weeks. Happy Growing !!!

The 2nd week was great for the plants. Specially Banana Purple Punch and Forbidden Runtz They stretched and grow without no problem. I'm excited for week 3. I LST them, I did some defoliation and they got fed with Goldleaf feterlizer and I added mycos chum and cal-mag to the mix. Let see how they do.

The growth has continued to explode using all organic ingredients. Been using an aerated compost tea with worm castings every other watering. Used coast of main soil with buildasoil dry amendments plus some coast of Maine bloom.

Our Tangerine Dream by Zamnesia is a strong piece because? I come from an area where mandarins reign supreme, when I was a kid the peels ended up covering the numbers of the first rudimentary bingo games. We all have a clear smell of mandarin in our nose and olfactory memory and we distinguish it from other citrus fruits, at least lemon. I had a Jet Fuel that was strong with mandarin and my friends all went crazy for example, "you can feel the peel" they tell me. It's like this guys when a strain is good ok it has to be strong, but the terpene profile reigns supreme. It has to smell, remind you of something, have an olfactory configuration is essential in today's cannabis and those citrus ones are the most recognizable but the nuances between the citrus ones are pure love. Remember that we are growing a plant worked with the indicated techniques and another left to grow without pruning to preserve its speed; in the previous/next diary you will find the other plant of the same variety. In this diary we find it worked with the Main lining: we topped the third internode, we worked the very small brunches in growth trying to keep them low until the third internode and then topped again. We are topping the laterals, one was broken by mistake but we have enough brunches thanks to this topping on the laterals that I am improving also next week you will see... Slow down the use of nitrogen during this technique, you may not need everything that is recommended by the producers. So, if the leaves become too dark or, worse, the tips of the leaves arch downwards and the leaf becomes "crunchy", it is time to lighten or stop the basic fertilizer. Comparison is the salt of experience, so the plant in the other diary will be treated very differently, go and see it to compare. We have started the Plagron fertilization program, we are in 100% organic configuration, the soil is recycled Promix + 1/3 fresh soil + 10% Perlite + RQS Mycorrhizae Mix (4 g in the mix, 1 g under the small fiber pot). We fertilize with: 1 ml/l Power Roots - 1 ml/l Pure Zym - 1 ml/l Sugar Royal - 3 ml/l Alga Grow We sprayed 3 ml/l Vita Race foliar fertilizer once a week. https://plagron.com/it We always have the excellent RQS mycorrhizae flowing in the soil. https://www.zamnesia.io/it/5778-mix-micorrize-easy-roots.html Taste this strain a little bit, it's a cross of legendary strains ---- // https://www.zamnesia.io/en/10966-zamnesia-seeds-tangerine-dream.html Short Description Zamnesia // When legendary genetics are crossed, something exceptional can only be born. Tangerine Dream is the result of crossing classic strains. With citrus and sweet aromas and flavors, vigorous growth and euphoric and stimulating effects, Tangerine Dream by Zamnesia Seeds has it all. But don't take our word for it: order your seeds now and discover it for yourself. You can find the whole world of growing at Zamnesia and much more take a tour of the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. The whole world of growing and more is at Zamnesia: just take a look at the site and you will find "all the best that nature has to offer" in various shapes and colors. The new strains are fantastic and the old ones are no exception... -- // www.zamnesia.com

Quick foreword: I hate how Growdiaries does Harvest and Smoke separately and then messes up all the pictures. Please bear with me, I tried to label them all. Wowsers, what a trip this contest grow turned out to be! I am so sorry to submit it one day before the deadline, life got in the way, but the good news is this lovely plant has had a chance to fully cure and she’s been helping me through big changes in my life. Dry weights will be in the Smoke report. I have only input the mother’s dry weight as the total end dry weight. This is because this is a competition diary and the rule is one plant. Consider the clones a successful experiment. They are only here to document how hardy this plant is and how easy she is to clone. Remember, one of the clones was the top of the plant I cut off when topping her before flipping. I usually can never get those to root, but this plant clones very easily! As always, the main plant was dried in a cardboard wardrobe box, modified to have a 5v USB fan extracting air at the bottom. This helps prevent mold but keeps moisture in for a slower dry, which leaves some more terpenes. Drying took around two weeks. Trimming was a pain. I love the smell of this plant, but her lowers are so leafy. If you go back to around the weeks where I flipped, you can clearly see I left too many lower nodes and as a result I had too much of a bush. The Micro DWC experiment ended up surprising me the most. Check out the smoke review for its weight and taste! some people also asked me how far I keep my lights, I don't measure the distance, sorry. I use Photone on iOS and push the ppfd of my plants up to 1000 during flower. The Soil clones and the main competition plant were planted in organic soil from a local garden center mixed with organic fertalizer tablets and worm castings, the clones were in 1L and 3 gallon pots and the main competition plant was planted in a 5 gallon growbag. once the plants ran out of food I fed Plagron's Alga line. the DWC clone used just Plagron Hydro A+B and extra PK 13/14 in flower, this is by far the cheapest and most effective way in my experience, it could be due to lack of skill in organics, but you can clearly see, my DWC plant is frostier than my soil ones, and they're the exact same phenotype. I'll probably be going back to hydroponics, I'm not saying organic isn't the way to go, but for me personally, my skillset and way of growing better fits the artificial nutrients, and as a result my DWC plants flourish. I feel more in control with DWC, I know exactly what's going on in my buckets, whereas with organics I'm often scratching my head in frustration.

Variedad con una floración corta, entre 8/9 semanas. Procedente del original Exodus Clon (UK). Predominancia indica con un nivel de thc superior al 16% . Es muy fácil de cultivar y la alimentación la acepta muy bien en general . Cada etapa cumplió con mis expectativas y por ello aparte del sabor el colocon ... en cuanto a todas sus etapas le doy 9/10 . CEPA BRUTAL enserio.

EC 2.3 Ph 6.3

2025/01/07 The little ones are growing diligently. Ami and Amber have developed a CalMag deficiency, so I’ve slightly increased the CalMag dosage. 2025/01/08 Today, I transplanted them into their final 18L pots. Maybe a bit early, but I think it's better too early than too late. 2025/01/11 The ladies are growing great, and the CalMag deficiency seems to be resolved. 😊