Week 6 – Fat Lemon Energy 🍋🔥 Week 6 is here and the Lamin-O-Gs are doing their thing – stacking, swelling, and smelling like straight-up citrus bombs. Buds are thickening up, pistils are firing everywhere, and the canopy looks like it’s ready for takeoff. 🚀 💧 Feed for the week (15L): • 20ml Topmax • 70ml Bloom • 50ml molasses • 30ml EM (Effective Microorganisms) • 30ml CalMag The nitrogen fade is on point – older leaves are gently fading, feeding the flowers, while the tops stay lush and green. No drama, just bloom power. These girls are soaking up every watt of light without a single complaint. Full throttle. Lemon OG jungle vibes. 🌴 Next week? Expect even more frost and bulk – these ladies are just getting started. Stay tuned, amigos. Only buds, no stress. 💚

Day 75 watering with just ph controlled (6,2) water to finish flushing her Day 77 looks incredible frosty now, I Tonino I’m really close to CUt her. This afternoon I will check with microscope and, I’d like 25%amber and 75% milky

Just fed water for the last week, had to dry in a drying rack due to lack of space. Nice flowers. Both plants look very similar but both smell different to each other. Both smell nice. Will update.

7/31/2018 Wow 2 weeks since update?hmm. Well #1 is in training still getting Wide, about 36 sq feet..6x6 area, tops starting to stretch, I think. Feeding Tomato 🍅 tone 3-4-6 maybe a slight boost of high p guano to help transition to flowering in next week or two, we'll be at 10hours of dark. And flowering will commence.👍 08/04/2018 Pre flower starting,post some pics soon. Got the little booster i mentioned above it is Fox farms big bloom as I said a slight boost. #5 is definitely different from other plants, she is super stinky and sticky as hell, when stripping leaves. Took 3 clones for future testing.

@twenty20mendocino Ateam R&D Update ~ Let’s Go day 18 of 🌸almost 3 weeks in an we are looking great! Gave em another aggressive trim up some lollipops this week hopefully wasn’t too early but hey it’s we learn as growers, but they are bouncing back super nice, praying a looking happy y’all! Can’t wait to see what these girls do over the next few weeks, y’all have to keep them eyes peeled for next weeks update. Y’all have an amazing productive rest of your day as well as great rest of your week! Hope y’all enjoy, peace love an positive vibes to all y’all Cheers an blaze on 😶‍🌫️💨💨💨💨

Week 1

You don't become confident by shouting affirmations in the mirror, but by having a stack of undeniable proof that you are who you say you are, outwork your self-doubt. Nitrogen fixation is a chemical process by which molecular nitrogen (N2), which has a strong triple covalent bond, is converted into ammonia (NH3) or related nitrogenous compounds, typically in soil or aquatic systems but also in industry. The nitrogen in air is molecular dinitrogen, a relatively nonreactive molecule that is metabolically useless to all but a few microorganisms. Biological nitrogen fixation or diazotrophy is an important microbe-mediated process that converts dinitrogen (N2) gas to ammonia (NH3) using the nitrogenase protein complex (Nif).[2][3] Nitrogen fixation is essential to life because fixed inorganic nitrogen compounds are required for the biosynthesis of all nitrogen-containing organic compounds, such as amino acids and proteins, nucleoside triphosphates and nucleic acids. As part of the nitrogen cycle, it is essential for agriculture and the manufacture of fertilizer. It is also, indirectly, relevant to the manufacture of all nitrogen chemical compounds, which include some explosives, pharmaceuticals, and dyes. Nitrogen fixation is carried out naturally in soil by microorganisms termed diazotrophs that include bacteria, such as Azotobacter, and archaea. Some nitrogen-fixing bacteria have symbiotic relationships with plant groups, especially legumes.[4] Looser non-symbiotic relationships between diazotrophs and plants are often referred to as associative, as seen in nitrogen fixation on rice roots. Nitrogen fixation occurs between some termites and fungi.[5] It occurs naturally in the air by means of NOx production by lightning.[6][7] All biological reactions involving the process of nitrogen fixation are catalyzed by enzymes called nitrogenases.[8] These enzymes contain iron, often with a second metal, usually molybdenum but sometimes vanadium. Green clover (Fixation) White clover (Fixation) Red Clover. (Fixation) Yellow Clover. (Fixation, deeper roots) Sweet Thai Basil. (Terpenes) Italian Basil. (Terpenes) Chamomile.(Oil production) Borage.(Pest attraction taste) Lavender.(Pest attraction smell) Marigold(Pest attraction visual) Mycorrhizae are beneficial associations between mycorrhizal fungi and a plant’s root system. Mycorrhizal fungi spores germinate in the soil, creating filaments (hyphae) that penetrate the root cells, thus establishing a symbiotic relationship. This collaboration leads to the development of both intra-radical and extra-radical networks of filaments, enabling efficient exploration of the soil for enhanced access to nutrients and water. Consequently, these vital resources are transferred to the plant, resulting in numerous benefits for crop cultivation. Various mycorrhizal products are available in diverse formulations (powder, granular, and liquid), concentrations, and qualities. Ongoing advancements in products, technologies, and research are reshaping our understanding of mycorrhizae. Despite these positive developments, certain misconceptions persist. In the following discussion, we aim to clarify the truths and dispel the myths surrounding mycorrhizae products. MYTH #1 A HIGHER NUMBER OF MYCORRHIZAE SPECIES MEANS BETTER RESULTS. Contrary to common belief, having a higher number of mycorrhizae species in a product does not translate to better results; in fact, it often yields the opposite outcome. A plant can sustain only one association with a particular mycorrhizal fungi species. Introducing multiple species creates competition among them, which is not advantageous for the plant. The initial colonizer does not ensure the highest success; instead, it gains precedence. It is recommended to select a product with a concentrated presence of a single mycorrhizae species known for its effective performance, rather than opting for a product with multiple species at lower concentrations. MYTH #2 ECTOMYCORRHIZAE ARE EFFECTIVE FOR CANNABIS PLANTS. Although ectomycorrhizae can colonize five to ten percent of plant species, cannabis is not among them. Ectomycorrhizae do not penetrate the root cells; instead, they develop around the roots and on the exterior. For cannabis plants, it is essential to seek out endomycorrhizae. Endomycorrhizae are capable of colonizing 70% to 90% of plant species, including cannabis. Unlike ectomycorrhizae, endomycorrhizae penetrate the root cells, forming structures like arbuscules for the exchange of nutrients and water with the plant. MYTH #3 WHOLE INOCULANT (PROPAGULES) PERFORM BETTER THAN ONLY VIABLE SPORES. The propagule count specified on most mycorrhizae products indicates the presence of spores (viable and unviable), hyphae, and root fragments. However, it is crucial to note that only viable spores, those with the capacity to germinate, can successfully colonize a plant’s root system. Spores are to mycorrhizal fungi what seeds are to cannabis plants—a fundamental component enabling fungi reproduction. Consequently, even if a mycorrhizal product boasts millions of propagules, its effectiveness hinges on the presence of viable spores. Without viable spores, the product will not contribute to plant development. Therefore, the genuine value of a mycorrhizal inoculant lies in the quantity of viable spores it contains, as only viable spores can efficiently initiate symbiosis. MYTH #4 ALL METHODS OF APPLICATION YIELD IDENTICAL RESULTS. To establish the symbiosis, mycorrhizal fungi spores must be close to the plant roots. The optimal recommendation is to directly apply mycorrhizal inoculant to the roots, either in powder, granular or slurry form. This method ensures maximum proximity between the spores and the roots, facilitating a rapid establishment of symbiosis. Particularly with crops like cannabis, which have a short growing cycle, employing this technique is the most effective way to obtain optimal benefits. Alternatively, techniques such as blending the inoculant with the soil are effective, but there may be a delay in the establishment of symbiosis. This is because the roots need to grow and come into contact with the dispersed spores throughout the growing media. MYTH #5 MYCORRHIZAE CAN ONLY BE GROWN ON LIVING PLANTS. While the predominant method for commercially producing mycorrhizae involves growing them on the root systems of living plants (in vivo production), it is not the exclusive nor the optimal technique. In fact, this production approach has notable drawbacks that the “root organ culture” method just does not have (in vitro production). In vitro production occurs in meticulously controlled, aseptic laboratory conditions, allowing for the consistent generation of products that are viable, highly concentrated, species-specific, and free from pathogens. Achieving such precision and quality is impossible when relying on the cultivation of mycorrhizal fungi on plants exposed to external conditions. In conclusion, it is crucial to take all these factors into consideration when choosing the appropriate product for your crop to fully harness the wide array of benefits provided by a high-quality mycorrhizal product. STRONGER PLANT – Stress resistance. FASTER GROWTH – Improve plant structure and shorter veg time. INCREASE YIELD – Overall more biomass. IMPROVED QUALITY – Increase cannabinoids and terpenes content.

Día 34 (27/05) Riego con 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + P-Boost 0,5 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/l + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 Día 35 (28/05) Riego 750 ml sólo H2O pH 6.2 Día 36 (29/05) Riego con 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + P-Boost 0,5 ml/l + TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 Día 37 (30/05) Riego 750 ml sólo H2O pH 6.2 Día 38 (31/05) Riego con 750 ml H2O + Regulator 0,15 ml/l + P-Boost 0,5 ml/l + CaMg-Boost 0,25 ml/I +TopBooster 0,2 ml/l - pH 6.2 Día 39 (01/06) Riego 750 ml sólo H2O pH 6.2 Día 40 (02/06) Riego con 750 ml de Té de Compost de Floración 💦Nutrients by Aptus Holland - www.aptus-holland.com 🌱Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae

Muchas gracias por dejarme participar BsF y grow diariaries y compartir este cultivo gorila glue 4. Fue un hecho en scroog en un metro veinte cuadrado usando dos masetas de 23 ltrs usanso microorganismos y productos orgánicos súper contento con esta sepa, fueron criadas con dos focos galoponeros en un armario con poco a lo q tengamos podemos hacer mucho lo importante es aprender un poco todos los días y disfrutar de nuestras cosechas un fuerte abrazo para todos @gorilaweed420

Strawberry Gorilla Auto - FastBuds Welcome to week 11 of my grow diary, which is also the last week. As predicted last week, the weather has become even warmer. The heat has now completely taken over the house, and it has also rained for a few days, causing the humidity to rise again. Unfortunately, this led to mold forming on one shoot, so I decided to take action. Normally, the plant could have stayed in place for another 1-2 weeks for my needs, but I didn't want to take any risks and harvested it in week 11. Overall, I was satisfied with the growth of the plant. Environmental conditions are unpredictable in summer and more difficult to control than in winter/spring. I was able to gain more experience with this grow and now know that I should take a break in summer from now on. I really liked the mainlining. Before, I topped above node 2 and left 4 main shoots. With 2 main shoots, it is much easier to work with and does not require as much defoliation as with 4. I will definitely use this technique again in the future. Here's some initial feedback on the Strain "Strawberry Gorilla Auto" from FastBuds and the Organic Starter Kit from Advanced Nutrients: The plant grew really well and has enormous potential. The buds were so swollen towards the end that I was amazed. The organic fertilizer from Advanced Nutrients probably also had an influence. This was my very first purely organic grow, and I think I can be satisfied with the result. I can wholeheartedly recommend the fertilizer. I will definitely use it again in future projects and will probably do a comparison grow between the mineral and organic starter kits. Avg. Temperature - 27°C Avg. Humidity - 68% Avg. VPD - 1,16kPA The lamp runs at 60% which is 356w according to the energy meter. At a distance of 20cm the plant gets around 950-1100ppfd. Thank you for following me so far. I will give you an update after it has dried. I hope you enjoyed my grow diary. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask me. See you next week ✌️ Soil: Plagron Lightmix N 180 mg/L - P 210 mg/L - K 360 mg/L Fertilizer used: Advanced Nutrients - Vodoo Juice Plus Advanced Nutrients - Iguana Juice Bloom Advanced Nutrients - Big Bud Tent: AC Infinity Cloudlab 844 Exhaust air: AC Infinity Cloudline T6 incl. activated carbon filter Lamp: Kingbrite P55 / 480w, dimmable Fan: AC Infinity Cloudray S6 Gen. 2 Controller: AC Infinity Controller 69 Pro Pots: Gronest 25L PH Pen: Bluelab Onepen

First of the 4 plants that goes down, i am going to give one more week to the other three. 🍁🍁

BPP started the fourth week showing potential, the plant is thick, vigorous, I start to regret not having put it in a bigger pot. On the 25th day I applied my homemade FAA in the morning, 2ml/L. On the 27th day the cultivation of up to 6 female marijuana plants was decriminalized in Brazil, as well as the possession of up to 40g 🙌 On the 28th day I made a new mixture of soil with bone meal, dolomitic limestone and bokashi, I used some perlite for the aeration too.

Last week of flowering is behind us and today I harvested. Since I barely defoliated my plants I had quite a bit of leaves to remove. I hung them up to dry in a dark growtent with light airflow. Expect a Harvest report in about two weeks

Floracion (Tiempo estimado 64 dias) Quinta Semana de Floracion 05/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se hace cambio de solucion nutritiva, con parametros ajustados a la semana, Se hace Lavado de cubetas, tuberias, bomba, humificador, y perifericos, Se realiza limpieza completa del indoor, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos, el olor es mas penetrante pero gracias al filtro de carbono se mantiene fuera del indoor sin aroma, empiezan a observarse mas el crecimiento de los Cogollos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 06/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 07/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 08/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Realize por la mañana riego foliar con agua de osmosis sobre toda la planta, quedo empapada, al iniciar el ciclo de luz y verificar la planta se noto lama dentro del recipiente de la solucion y canastilla hidroponica por arriba y abajo de ella, La unica accion que realize fue quitar la malla de guia para que subieran los tallos y no se contaminaran, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 09/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se realizo limpieza de la mold en el cubo hidroponico, acomode los aspersores de modo que el chorro de agua diera al mold, cambie la bomba de oxigeno, se nota un cambio por la tarde considerable, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 10/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se observa mejoria considerable en las raices y el cubo hidroponico, Se limpia el prefiltro del extractor de 8 pulgadas, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad. 11/02/2024 - 5:00hrs y 22hrs: Se nota una mejora considerable en la raiz y en el cubo de reserva, Parece haber desaparecido el moho, Se verifican parámetros básicos del agua, mantener cuidados específicos. Agua de osmosis: Ph 6.0, PPm 950-1200, Ec 1.9-2.3, Temperatura 18°C - 24°C Ambiente: Temperatura 19-25 °C, Humedad 65%, Ventilación 20%, 12 hrs de luz , 12 hrs de obscuridad.

Going good so far..

Beginning of week 3. Great development good healthy color.

WOW!! She is a stonking little plant!!!!!!!! Grown another 17cm this week..... Now over a meter tall from a 1 Litre airpot!!!!!!!!!