The Grow Awards 2026 🏆
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@Moss420
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Ended up flushing Mumma for about 10 days - got her ppm down real low. Night before harvest I set the timer so the light would not come back on in the morning before I harvested (I've seen people who swear by this and other who say it doesn't do anything but figured it couldn't hurt). At this point the other plants are pretty disappointing compared to Mumma so they aren't getting as much "love" lol.
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4/27/2024 Flower Week 10 Day 1- Water Change Day!!!! Still about a week out.. but her grow sister is ready.. I setup the Dry tent, and I have moved everything in the Cannatrol so I have room for 2.2lbs wet in the cannatrol and everything else will be hanging.. I have my AC unit in the tent, I have my Dehumidifier's setup and I have my fans. I have one more fan that will be delivered tomorrow and I needed one more Carbon filter and inline fan and that will be here tomorrow as well. As soon as they get in I will go ahead and check one more time on the Trichomes of her grow sister and as long as she is where I want her to be. My Dry tent temp will be 70 and my RH will be 55. Timber...... I added 36 gallons and the accompanying Nutes I added the following Nutes: CalMag= .50Mil/Gal= 18Mil FloraMicro = 2.3Mil/Gal= 83Mil FloraGro= 1.3Mil/Gal= 47Mil FLoraBloom= 4.0Mil/Gal= 144Mil ORCA = .5Mil/Gal= 18Mil SIGNAL= 3.0Mil/Gal = 2.0Mil Liquid KoolBloom= 2.5mil/Gal = 90Mil EPSOM- 1 Big pinch 4/28/2024 Flower Week 10 Day 2- Did a Trichome check just to see where she is.. I think still about a week or 2 out.. will just keep looking every couple of days and see where we are. I love being able to grow. 4/29/2024 Flower Week 10 Day 3- Didn't do anything today but just get a few photos... 4/30/2024 Flower Week 10 Day 4- Didn't do anything today.. 5/01/2024 Flower Week 10 Day 5- Didn't do anything today but get a few pics.. 5/02/2024 Flower Week 10 Day 6- took Her grow sister down today.. Her grow sister was just ready and it giver her more space and light to herself.. 5/03/2024 Flower Week 10 Day 7- Didn't do anything today but get a few pics.. She is already starting to darken up on the side that her grow sister was on that didn't get much light. Since I took down her sister yesterday I have 4 days until I can take her down.. I will need to move the flower once dry from the cannatrol and put that in an auto cure tub and then put in a fresh 2.2lbs of wet from this harvest. Excited..
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Hey guys, 31/5/21. We are seeing clear signs of bud. Looking very nice. Both purple lemonade are flowing. However as I previously mentioned before I had a problem with a water pump. On one tray. This has set the plants back in this tray. Wedding cheesecake and grape gushers. However because the are all autos I am lucky as in my light cycle hasn't changed. So effects are not dramatic as they could've been. Happy growing people's đŸ‘ŒđŸ€ŸđŸ‘âœŠđŸ‘ŠđŸŒ±đŸđŸŒż
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@DjHairy
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Week 10 and the plant is growing nice buds. The smell is still pretty weak. Tons of white hairs and looks like the buds still need to bulk up a bit. The lower fan leafs are turning yellow. Since I had to flush the plant I kinda hit it hard with nuts feeding it on a straight water day which I usually wouldn’t do. That may have caused some nutrient burn since I see some burnt tips but over all the plant is looking great.
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@nonick123
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DĂ­a 42 (27/02). Riego 1,25 Litro H20 + Wholly Base 2,5 ml/l + Solid Green 1,5 ml/l + Rise Up 0,5 ml/l de Gen1:11 TDS 898 PPMs - pH 6,5 (mĂ­nimo ajuste con pH+ para subirlo desde 6,2) Plantas sedientas con un intervalo de riego cada 4 dĂ­as. A partir de ahora regarĂ© cada 3 dĂ­as DĂ­a 43 (28/02) Las ramas crecen muy rĂĄpido y se van colocando para recibir el mĂĄximo posible de luz. Es impresionante su evoluciĂłn dĂ­a a dĂ­a! DĂ­a 44 (29/02) Han crecido 17 cm desde que cambiĂ© a 12/12. Alucinante! 😍😍😍 DĂ­a 45 (01/03) Riego 1,25 Litro H20 + Wholly Base 2,5 ml/l + Solid Green 1,5 ml/l + Rise Up 0,5 ml/l de Gen1:11 TDS 891 PPMs - pH 6,25 Añado un poco de substrato al top y a los bordes de la maceta antes de regar, porque se ha compactado ligeramente. DĂ­a 46 (02/03). Las plantas siguen su crecimiento imparable. 3 cm al dĂ­a 😍 💩Nutrients by Gen1:11 - www.genoneeleven.com đŸŒ±Substrate PRO-MIX HP BACILLUS + MYCORRHIZAE - www.pthorticulture.com/en/products/pro-mix-hp-biostimulant-plus-mycorrhizae đŸŽšïžControlled by TrolMaster TCS-1 Tent-X System Main Controller - https://www.trolmaster.com/Products/Details/TCS-1
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@Genji
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Woche 6 startet wie gewohnt ohne Probleme. Die Buds werden dicker und schwerer. RLF pendelt aktuell zwischen 45-52%, Temperaturen schwanken etwas mehr von 18-26°C. Noch halten die Buds sich von alleine aber ich denke zum Ende der Woche könnten sie StĂŒtzen gebrauchen. Der Geruch im Zelt ist extrem. Sie stinkt so stark, das ich das Zelt nicht lange offen lassen kann.😎 Die Masse der BlĂŒten ist auch ziemlich gut. Wird bestimmt heftig.
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0.23v tuned to 7.83Hz Plants exposed to the Schumann resonance often show greater resistance to stress factors such as drought, diseases, and pests. It is possible that these natural electromagnetic waves strengthen plants' immune systems and increase their ability to resist disease. Pretty neat, in the afternoon when the tent hovers around 84F the plants are 🙏, can visually see in time around 10 minutes after I opened the tent the temp had dropped to 76 pressure was lost, she is still chilling but she doesn't quite have that perk anymore. *Salinity3.5% - 100ml H2O=100g The concentration of salt in a solution 3.5%= 3.5g in 100ml. Growing well. Not going to top or do any training, I'll let the plant do its own thing, she is constructing foundations now for what she senses ahead. Smart girl. ✚ Let her, do her thing, let me do mine. The voltage that is needed for electrolysis to occur is called the decomposition potential. The word "lysis" means to separate or break, so in terms, electrolysis would mean "breakdown via electricity. Green hydrogen is hydrogen produced by the electrolysis of water, using renewable electricity. The production of green hydrogen causes significantly lower greenhouse gas emissions than the production of grey hydrogen, which is derived from fossil fuels without carbon capture. Electrolysis of pure water requires excess energy in the form of overpotential to overcome various activation barriers. Without the excess energy, electrolysis occurs slowly or not at all. This is in part due to the limited self-ionization of water. Pure water has an electrical conductivity of about one hundred thousandths that of seawater. Efficiency is increased through the addition of an electrolyte (such as a salt, acid or base). Photoelectrolysis of water, also known as photoelectrochemical water splitting, occurs in a photoelectrochemical cell when light is used as the energy source for the electrolysis of water, producing dihydrogen . Photoelectrolysis is sometimes known colloquially as the hydrogen holy grail for its potential to yield a viable alternative to petroleum as a source of energy. The PEC cell primarily consists of three components: the photoelectrode the electrolyte and a counter electrode. The semiconductor crucial to this process, absorbs sunlight, initiating electron excitation and subsequent water molecule splitting into hydrogen and oxygen. Water electrolysis requires a minimum potential difference of 1.23 volts, although at that voltage external heat is also required. Typically 1.5 volts is required. Biochar, a by-product of biomass pyrolysis, is typically characterized by high carbon content, aromaticity, porosity, cation exchange capacity, stability, and reactivity. The coupling of biochar oxidation reaction (BOR) with water electrolysis constitutes biochar-assisted water electrolysis (BAWE) for hydrogen production, which has been demonstrated to reduce the electricity consumption of conventional water electrolysis from 1.23v to 0.21v. Biochar particles added to the electrolyte form a two-phase solution, in which the biochar oxidation reaction (BOR) has a lower potential (0.21 V vs. RHE) than OER (1.23 V vs. RHE), reducing the energy consumption for hydrogen production via biochar-assisted water electrolysis (BAWE). BAWE produces H2 under 1 V while eliminating O2 formation: key word "eliminating". Air with a normal oxygen concentration of around 21% is not considered explosive on its own; however, if a flammable gas or vapor is present, increasing the oxygen percentage above 23.5% can significantly increase the risk of ignition and explosion due to the enriched oxygen environment. The addition of ion mediators (Fe3+/Fe2+) significantly increases BOR kinetics. Air: Nitrogen -- N2 -- 78.084% Carbon Dioxide -- CO2 -- 0.04% Hydrogen in homosphere H -- 0.00005% Hydrogen "GAS" H2 in homosphere - 0% "Nitrogen, oxygen, and argon are the three main components of Earth's atmosphere. Water concentration varies but averages around 0.25% of the atmosphere by mass. Carbon dioxide and all of the other elements and compounds are trace gases. Trace gases include the greenhouse gases carbon dioxide, methane, nitrous oxide, and ozone. Except for argon, other noble gases are trace elements (these include neon, helium, krypton, and xenon). Industrial pollutants include chlorine and its compounds, fluorine and its compounds, elemental mercury vapor, sulfur dioxide, and hydrogen sulfide. Other components of Earth's atmosphere include spores, pollen, volcanic ash, and salt from sea spray." Although the CRC table does not list water vapor (H2O), air can contain as much as 5% water vapor, more commonly ranging from 1-3%. The 1-5% range places water vapor as the third most common gas (which alters the other percentages accordingly). Water content varies according to air temperature. Dry air is denser than humid air. However, sometimes humid air contains actual water droplets, which can make it more dense than humid air that only contains water vapor. The homosphere(where you live) is the portion of the atmosphere with a fairly uniform composition due to atmospheric turbulence. In contrast, the heterosphere is the part of the atmosphere where chemical composition varies mainly according to altitude. The lower portion of the heterosphere contains oxygen and nitrogen, but these heavier elements do not occur higher up. The upper heterosphere consists almost entirely of hydrogen, cool. 78%nitrogen as N2, a far too stable bond to be used by organisms. 20%oxygen 0.04%co2 0.00005% hydrogen When lightning strikes, it tears apart the bond in airborne nitrogen molecules. Those free nitrogen atoms N2 nitrites then have the chance to combine with oxygen molecules to form a compound called nitrates N3. Once formed, the nitrates are carried down to the ground becoming usable by organisms. Will it react with the oxygen in the air spontaneously, the answer is no. The mixture is chemically stable indefinitely. A mixture with air near the release point can be ignited, but if this does not happen then when its concentration gets below 4% it will be unable to carry a flame. Taking a small detour into chemistry here, a key concept to understanding the health impact of nitrogen-based compounds is knowing the difference between nitrates and nitrites. What Are Nitrates and Nitrites? A nitrite (NO2) is a nitrogen atom bonded to only two nitrogen atoms. Very strong bond A nitrate (NO3) is a nitrogen atom bonded to three oxygen atoms. Weaker bond The optimal pH for nitrate (NO3-) depends on the process and the type of bacteria involved. Nitrification The optimal pH for nitrification is between 7.5 and 8.6 Nitrification is the process of oxidizing ammonia to nitrate and nitrite Nitrosomonas has an optimal pH between 7.0 and 8.0 Nitrobacter has an optimal pH between 7.5 and 8.0 Nitrification ceases at pH
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So guys, one of my 4x4 tents 3 of the plants have been harvested so the Wedding Cake have been relocated for their final week as I am starting a new grow. Very exciting, can't wait to share with the rest of the gang. Bang Bang
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My tent is full!....my crude tie back seems to be keeping everything away from the light....not able to get good pics.... we are at day 70 and still drinking a half gallon a day.... seeing nice swelling
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Regular floral food 5:5:5 On BUD: https://growbud.co/shared/sharedGrow?plantId=MSEevo942h
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Week 5 Veg Report: SCROG Netting, Massive Leafs & Precise Data Mastery! đŸŒ± Girls Growing Stronger Than Ever! đŸŒ± This week has been truly epic in the grow room—so much so that it’s time to bring in the SCROG net! With the canopy expanding and the younger ones still working to catch up, the SCROG net will help me achieve that perfect, even canopy. A well-placed SCROG not only ensures better light penetration but also gives the smaller plants a chance to spread out and thrive alongside their bigger sisters. Now, let’s dive deep into the SCROG method. The Screen of Green (SCROG) technique is a grower’s secret weapon for maximizing space, light efficiency, and yields. The concept is simple but powerful—train the plants to grow horizontally along the net, forcing them to expose multiple budding sites instead of just a single cola. This way, the canopy spreads evenly, improving light distribution and air circulation throughout the tent. As the plants grow, I’ll gently weave their branches through the screen, ensuring they fill every square inch of space. The end goal? A sea of buds all basking in equal light! đŸ’Ș Huge Leafs Everywhere! 🌿 One thing that’s really catching my eye this week is the size of the leaves—they’re HUGE! Honestly, they’re so big I couldn’t resist a little fun, so I made myself some fashion accessories: leaf earrings and a cap from the Super Sativa Seed Club Green Papaya! 😂 And, of course, I captured the moment. But seriously, large leaves at this stage are a great sign of healthy, robust plants. These “solar panels” are hard at work soaking up all the light, driving photosynthesis, and fueling growth. So, what does it mean when your plants are showing off big, luscious leaves? It’s a clear indication that they’re happy, healthy, and thriving in their environment—big leaves mean lots of energy being produced and stored for future bud growth. Exactly what we want! 💧 Precision Feeding with Aptus Nutrients 💧 This week, I took a deep dive into my Aptus nutrient lineup and shared a video explaining how each product affects the water’s pH and TDS. Using the AMP-3 Precision Meter, I’m getting real-time water readings and keeping everything dialed in perfectly. Let’s break it down: ‱ pH: 5.83 ‱ TDS in solution: 445 ppm ‱ Water temperature: 25.2°C The Aptus products are incredible for balancing nutrients without throwing off the pH or TDS too much. I’m fine-tuning my feedings based on these readings to make sure the girls are getting exactly what they need. The precision I’m able to achieve with the AMP-3 is mind-blowing—I get immediate feedback on pH, temperature, and EC, allowing me to make real-time adjustments and ensure the perfect environment for nutrient uptake. 📊 Environmental Mastery Thanks to TrolMaster 📊 Speaking of control—let’s talk about the TrolMaster system! Between the DSH-2U Humidity Station and all the other sensors, I’ve created the perfect environment for my plants. Here’s where we’re at this week: ‱ Temperature: 26.2°C ‱ RH: 70.6% ‱ CO2 levels: 775 ppm ‱ VPD: 1.0 kPa ‱ PPFD: 423 Thanks to TrolMaster, I can monitor and adjust these metrics in real time, and the best part? I can do it all through the TM+ Pro app, even while I’m lounging in my green papaya leaf hat! 😆 Whether I’m checking the CO2 levels, adjusting the lights, or fine-tuning the humidity, it’s all in my hands with just a tap of my phone. Talk about convenience! đŸŒ± P.S. – Inline Sensors: Heavy-Duty Precision đŸŒ± Now, let’s talk about the heavy-duty players in this game—the (PCT-2) Heavy Duty Inline EC/Temp Sensor and the (PPH-2) Heavy Duty Inline pH Sensor. These bad boys are connected directly to the AMP-3 Precision Meter, and they’ve been absolutely crucial in giving me the most accurate readings on my water and nutrient solution. The PCT-2 keeps me informed about the electrical conductivity and temperature of my solution, which is key for monitoring how well my plants are absorbing nutrients. Too high or too low, and we’re asking for trouble, but this sensor ensures I’m always in that perfect range. The PPH-2, on the other hand, is all about maintaining the perfect pH balance. A fluctuating pH can mean nutrient lockout or deficiencies, but thanks to this sensor, I get a constant read on my pH levels, so the plants are always in their sweet spot for optimal nutrient absorption. Together, these inline sensors allow me to run a super-tight ship—every drop of water and nutrient is dialed in to perfection, keeping the plants happy and healthy! Shout Outs! As always, huge thanks to TrolMaster and ThinkGrow LED for the amazing gear, to Aptus Holland for their top-notch nutrients and Pro-Mix for the best soil i have used so far. Big love to the seed banks, the amazing Grow Diaries community, and all my followers—you guys make this journey so much more exciting. Don’t forget to catch up on my social media, Instagram, and YouTube for real-time updates and exclusive content! Stay tuned for more—next week is going to be epic! DogDoctorOfficial Discount Codes so you can save big on your next check out 💚💚💚 Kannabia - DOGDOCTOR 30% off SeedsmanSeeds - DOGDOCTOR 10% off CannaKan- DOGDOCTOR 15% off terpyz.eu - DOCTOR 15% off The Neutralizer - PORKIT5-DOG 15% off Growers Love to you all 💚💚💚
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@Pblc_10
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Ich hab vor ein paar Tagen umgetopft und n paar LST Clips Ran getan und hoffe das die so richtig sind😅👍 Umgetopft wurde in BioBizz allmix Lampe bei 50cm Abstand auf 35% (280ppfd) Jetzt nur noch abwarten dann Seitentriebe etwas selektieren und denn geht's auch schon in die blĂŒte wenn alles passt👍
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@Hawkbo
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Finally got the temps up to an average of 78°F with the lights on and things turned right around. Someone on here reccomended I try putting a small 250w heater inside the tent with a fan behind it and it worked so shootout to @lionsshare. I took the autos and clones out and put them in the other tent. I have to take cuts of everything in here in case there is something special. It's been non stop work. The video was taken on day 2 of flower. I gave them a 36 hour dark period as well so they should stretch a little more and I might throw a few more plants in if there is room. These crosses I got 2 females which are in 1 gal pots but I might throw them in a 3 gal half full so they dont dry out as fast and throw my feeding schedule off.
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@alexb420
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probably won’t work with these for a bit. BUT was fun to grow something out and soon i’ll be able to try it out.
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Transplant week! Some of the girls in the tent started to droop but this one didn’t! She’s looking pretty good to me Come hang out with us in the discord!
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Created this diary for the video—- soon to be harvested âœŒïžđŸ»đŸ’šđŸŒ±đŸŒż
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last 3 days no watering and last 48 no light. drying conditions are RH 50% and temp 14°C.
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First week of flower in the bigger tent and on the Autopot xl smart pot system. Trying a new product on this run which is rock resinator which starts on Monday. Will leave these now to grow through out each week till day 20.
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Unfortunately, the plants have numerous leaves which look unhealthy (discolored, droopy, crispy/decayed). I removed the 3-4 worst looking leaves from each plant every other day, although I know that can be harmful to autos. Started adding in "Sensi Cal" this week to hopefully rebound from potential mineral deficiencies. Still using Recharge microbes once a week. Nutrients are now being administered accurately and at 1/4 the recommended level. Despite the unhealthy state of the plants, the pre-flowering bud sites look pretty good to me. I'm happy to see healthy looking pistils. Needless to say, I'm very eager to get these girls back on track and looking vibrant and verdant ASAP.
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START WEEK 03/29/22 +Started with some Medium Defoliation this week. Sort of spooky. The girls don't enjoy being jacked around. However, they seemed to have recovered nicely. I'm relieved. +Saw some real stretch the past week, beginning to form buds, pretty amazing and fun to watch the girls grow! +I do realize my plants are different sizes because of experimentation. Not a good idea in practice but great learning. 2 plants have been ScrOG, topped, fimmed, supercrop, you name it. 1 plant just fimmed and 1 plant untouched. The results speak for themselves. 2 plants really wind up being trellised and natural. I hope I can make some decent and consistent buds to make "sort of" final comparison. +bumped ppm to 1200 +beginning to smell VERY strong. +I will do some leaf picking (not enough to consider defoliation) this week just to expose a few more sites. These plants have been extremely bushy and a challenge for a Newbie like me. +Basically, I am just letting the plants do their thing. $Organoman $M0use $QuickOne $gottagrowsometime THANKS FOR THE ANSWERS TO MY QUESTION LOTS OF HELP. BASICALLY, THE SAME CONCEPT. PROBABLY DIDN'T DO ENOUGH DEFOLIATION BUT IT GETS A BIT SCAREY (WHEN EVERYTHING DROOPS) AND I DO SORT OF SUBSCRIBE TO "LESS IS MORE" . May be incorrect but at least on this 1st grow it will probable be my practice. THINKING OUT LOUD ?Should I? Can I? supplement red spectrum light? I have the ability just don't know if it is necessary. Also, might just be curious to see how my newly purchased light flowers. It's claims to be full spectrum? ?Do I need any additional boosters or additives? They appear to veg very well but I would like to make sure they get what they need to flower. ?Should I be popping seed for my next grow? Gotta get me a nice dedicated Veg light. Or maybe try autos?
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10/19: This morning when I opened up the closet I wanted to rearrange a little, but they were so packed in, it was almost impossible. So, I went up in the attic and ran some cables and hooked up my other 200w light in the top section. I moved the 4 smallest plants up there and it created a little bit of desperately needed space in the lower section...but I still doubt very seriously that I'll be able to grow all 15 to completion in there..it's only 14.5 square feet of space!😳 10/20: I foliar fed everybody with some SP-90 humic/fulvic acid and kelp me kelp you today. They will probably get fed again tomorrow. Drying out quickly- 10/21: I applied Axiom again today..I sprayed a whole liter of the finest mist I could produce..tops and bottoms of all leaves to the point of runoff. I fixed up a 5 gallon batch of nutes and fed everybody about a 1/4 gallon each. Later the same day.... Several of them look very overwatered..and it's mainly the plants in the back in fabric pots that have seen a grow or two. I think my pots are mainly just too close together for airflow to dry the bottoms out well enough. I put another big fan in the closet and turned off the evap cooler for the night. 10/22: Most of them look better this morning, but a few are still droopy, so I used a stainless steel skewer to poke a thousand little holes in the lower part of all the fabric pots in the garden to try and improve oxygen availability to the roots. I also carefully arranged the garden so that there are gaps between all the pots. I think I'll also space my waterings a little further apart. The topsoil is drying out well enough, but I don't want their roots sitting in muck. 10/23: Several of them are flowering now, and starting to stretch a little bit. I raised the lights about 2 inches today and dialed the ac infinity's high temp trigger up to 88f for a bit to get them to dry out a little faster, so the RH climbed a little higher as well...so I also set the ac infinity's high humidity trigger threshold to 65%. After observing signs of nitrogen toxicity on several of them, I realized that I made another rookie mistake...(where is my head??) The new 5 gallon bucket I'm using to mix a batch of nutes must be about 2 inches shorter than the one I had been using, and I never bothered to calibrate it....which I did today. So, for the past couple of feedings, I've been mixing in enough nutes for 5 gallons, but in only 4 gallons of water!!! I foliar fed them with BoomBoom Spray and gave them about 8oz each of boomerang and cal-mag early in the morning, and by 5pm they all looked happier. I'll give them a little drink of plain water tomorrow, then start them on flowering nutes the next day. 10/24: Several are starting to stretch now...and all but one are flowering. This morning I fed them another little dose of boomerang and cal-mag, and also added some bembe and open sesame to the mix. This afternoon, I foliar fed everybody very thoroughly with some humic/fulvic acid, seaweed extract, yucca extract, and big bloom (for the earthworm castings and minor and trace elements) I repotted the dwarf in a smaller container and gave it to my son. He's a bonsai enthusiast, so it's right up his alley...that's one less plant to deal with! 10/25: This evening I mixed up 5 gallons of pretty much everything except grow big. and gave everybody about 1/4 gallon each. I plan to flush them with sledgehammer on Sunday or Monday and only do foliar feedings like BoomBoom spray and fulvic acid until I resume normal bloom feeding mid-week. Because I've had such a good veg, I'm pretty sure the maximum number of plants I'll be able to fit into the lower section is 13...and maybe only 12. So, that will be my 4 or 5 shortest plants in the area above..in which case, I'll need more light... I think the new UVB light will have to wait until my next grow because I've got so spend a couple hundred bucks on seeds to be able to start another batch right before my current run finishes.đŸ˜–đŸ˜žđŸ˜©đŸ˜Ą