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Please Help On My First Grow (attempt 2)

2
51
8
901
8 months ago
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2
Indoor
Room Type
ScrOG
weeks 12, 15
LST
weeks 4, 6, 8, 10
HST
weeks 4, 6
Main-Lining
weeks 4, 6
Topping
weeks 3-4, 6
Defoliation
weeks 6, 8
LST
weeks 7
Defoliation
weeks 7
Perlite
Grow medium
Coco Coir
Grow medium
11 L
Pot Size
0.63 L
Watering
Grow Conditions
Week 13
Flowering
13.2
cm
inch
Height
12 hrs
Light Schedule
14+ conditions after
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Nutrients
ml/l
ml/gal
tsp/gal
3+ nutrients after
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Commented by
ObserverInterest ObserverInterest
9 months ago
Finally had the buds swell. Still no stretch TopMax went mouldy so didn’t give
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Grow Questions
ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question a year ago
How far am I from “Vegetative state” so that I can start using fertiliser and switch my light to 50% intensity
Solved
Plant. Other
1 like
m0use
m0useanswered grow question a year ago
Once the seed sprouts its in Vegetative State. It can be a sprout, and young plant or a mature plant all in the time it is in veg, it just depends on its age. Photoperiods only switch to flower when you give them 12/12 light cycle. Its the uninterrupted darkness that does this. that's why you can keep a photoperiod plant in veg for years on 18/6 as the darkness is not longer enough. 50% dim for seedlings sounds ok, but cannabis can take a DLI of aorund 40 from seed, so give it all it can handle for maximum output of growth. I would not go above 40DLI though as it requires more CO2 and other enviroments to be in control. If you have any PPFD maps for your light at different hang heights and intensities "dim settings" you can figure out your DLI that way and get its in a ballpark range. I have to run my twin lights at aorund 60% to get 40DLI on 12/12 schedule. Good Luck!
ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question a year ago
I upped the nutrients to week 2 of veg state (biobizz) and put the light to 50% intensity. I put the light at 6 inches above recommended height (which is recommended on the Mars Hydro website for beginners). . IS THIS NUTE BURN OR LIGHT BURN?
Solved
Leaves. Curl up
Leaves. Color - Yellow
2 likes
Scrubbyjimbob
Scrubbyjimbobanswered grow question a year ago
I'm not familiar with your nutes, but I think you're probably going too hot(strong) too soon. A plant this age barely has a root zone big enough to absorb anything to begin with, coco or not. With the nute line I use I'm barely using a teaspoon total per gallon on a young plant and you're pushing over 8 tsp per gallon. Feed light until either growth picks up or you are getting pale leaves, which tells you it's ready for more. You can't just load up a plant with nutes that's not ready and expect it to take off. Your first couple weeks are about building a root zone.
ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question a year ago
How am I doing so far? Have had some issues with nute burn but from an experienced perspective - what does this look like to you?
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Incognitus
Incognitusanswered grow question a year ago
FC 3000 - 66% 18" 18/6. over 12/12 bump to 100% from same distance. May need 19" but will take a long time to see any bleaching of buds. If you see any bleaching, 19" is probably better at 100% power and 12 hours of operation. If giving more than this, consider backing off. It may take a while for a light-stunted plant to recover.. may take a week in some cases. The FC-sereis of lights are powerful relative to the area they cover. You can use CO2 with these lights if the focus on grow area is sized right. So, it's easy to stunt plants with these lights when just relying on ambient CO2. the early weeks are tough to see, but looks like they got a bit too much light, which may be why they are a bit slow. A top-down view is not the best, but just in case, i am mentioning it. you can see better in real life whether the nodes are too tightly spaced or not. training leaves is fine, but make sure the top of the leaf is not shielded from light. Don't worry if the leaves shield the early branching. Light hitting all that surface area is FAR more important than any anecdotal reason to let light hit axillary buds more.
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question a year ago
Keep on keeping on.....it seems you have a plan, stick to it and don't worry what others think or say about what you are doing. You are the master of your own destiny!
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TheUk420Show
TheUk420Showanswered grow question a year ago
Hi buddy forst of all that is not nute burn by my eye anyway that seems to be sypmtoms of overwatering to me. I understand my fellow growers outrage. You are growing photoperiod plants so training early can be a good idea though you haveto weight up weather stunting a plant a seedling stage is worth the waste of time in growing when you could of been patient and topped them at a larger size so they did not stress so much. I would just use normal water for a few days and they let them growing like gotta said the best tool we have as growers is patience plants take time to grow and the more you in there fiddling around the less time they have to grow nice lol best of luck anyway ease up of the feed and if you dont wanna do that always follow your nutrients feed table its all there for you :)
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ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question a year ago
My humidity goes up to about 80% with the light off (6 hours light off). What will the effect be on my plants. We in veg state
Solved
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AsNoriu
AsNoriuanswered grow question a year ago
in veg stage nothing, in flower some bud rot or other mold ciguhikkgjan start with such spikes. you will need to increase air circulation later in stage or think about wise defoliation.
ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question a year ago
My humidity is high but it is the same as outside the tent, which is the same as my whole house - my extractor fan is strong (if I use a lower fan the tent gets too hot as I have a 300w in a 2x2). What do I do? Closing the door makes the entire room and tent too hot
Open
Setup. Ventilation
1 like
Answer
SkunkleDamo
SkunkleDamoanswered grow question a year ago
Hi there. I have just bough the FC-E 3000 and I run it in a 3x3. I have a 2x2 and run a 200w. To address the heat I would dim your light first. In veg you want about 20-30w per square foot and in flower no more than 50w. I would start dimming your light right down, get a smaller light or a bigger tent. Either bring air from outside or exhaust outside. Never have any water laying in trays or puddles. I was thinking of putting the 300w in the 2x2 or the tsw but it's just too hot. Try a phone app for light intensity. A dehumidifier does also help. If you can have it to drain constantly it helps as they fill up quick. Plants only use about 3% of water you give so have this in mind when sizing the dehumidifier
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Scrubbyjimbob
Scrubbyjimbobanswered grow question a year ago
Are you running your exhaust out of the room/house? Doing that helped me lower my humidity from the 60s down into the 40s.
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TheUk420Show
TheUk420Showanswered grow question a year ago
Better intake and out take fans is the key to lower humidity or you can bite the bullet and buy a small de humidifier that is another option there is always the option of adding more air curculation fans to try and get the warm moist air out the tent quicker the choices are yours buddy best of luck :)
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ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question a year ago
Using a 300w light in a 2x2 tent so the tent got very hot. I put in a powerful extractor fan and all is good. Now the heat/humidity is the same inside and outside the tent. However the house humidity is too high. How would I bring it down?
Open
Setup. Ventilation
1 like
Answer
SkunkleDamo
SkunkleDamoanswered grow question a year ago
Dehumidifier for humidity Smaller light for heat so door will close Growing autos can be done without tent Smaller difference between night and day temps (checkout RELATIVE humidity)
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SkunkleDamo
SkunkleDamoanswered grow question a year ago
Wrong light for tent. As I told you a couple of days ago. Most questions have a right and wrong answer that won't change from repetition
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HeavyHittah
HeavyHittahanswered grow question a year ago
Dehumidifier/ strong extractor fan and leaf stripping is the only way Tbh. Not really worth AC for a 2x2 tent.
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ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 10 months ago
When I take off a layer of soil there is a whole world of tiny white insects in my soil. What is this? Is this normal? Good? Bad? I’m using coco and perlite mix. They jump around very quickly when I expose them
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SkunkleDamo
SkunkleDamoanswered grow question 10 months ago
Springtails and they are harmless. I had them underpot . If bothered treat them. I put some pesticide of some sort on them and they did jump then lol
ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 10 months ago
What are these and are they bad? I thought they were springtails but they actually not jumping they walking around
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ohighoan
ohighoananswered grow question 10 months ago
Here’s a link to save ya some time I think. growdiaries.com/grow-questions/61162-helppppppp-in-need-of-help-with-these-pests My question may make your anxiety worse at first but I can assure you both the white and brown ones were not a problem for me whatsoever
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ohighoan
ohighoananswered grow question 10 months ago
Hey man, go look at my diary “organic autos round 2” these look and sound similar to what was crawling on the outsides of my fabric pots. I did spray the plants and fabric pots one good time with diluted 3% hydrogen peroxide which killed a lot of them but I saw them throughout the whole grow. I really noticed them going crazy after heavy waterings. I also don’t think they even bothered my plant. I saw some going up and down on the lower parts of the stem and some would even get stuck in the lower buds but i think It was because I’d water so heavy they’d have to scurry out of the soil. I wouldn’t worry too much about them unless you are seeing them all over your plant or your plants health declines
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GanjaGecko
GanjaGeckoanswered grow question 10 months ago
Hi grüß dich. Springschwänze kommen erst beim Gießen an die Oberfläche und springen wenn Wasser an der Oberfläche ist. Sobald das Wasser einsickert, laufen sie eher an der Oberfläche und suchen sich den Weg zurück in die Erde. Springschwänze ernähren sich in der Regel von totem material. Solange deine Pflanze ein gesunden Eindruck macht, sind die Springschwänze kein Problem.
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ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 10 months ago
How long after my final mainline topping should I flip into flower
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 10 months ago
I agree with others 1-2 weeks. Good Luck!
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Scrubbyjimbob
Scrubbyjimbobanswered grow question 10 months ago
**flip.
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Stork
Storkanswered grow question 10 months ago
1 2 weeks
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ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 10 months ago
What is this leave discolouration ?
Open
Leaves. Color - Dark-brown
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Answer
Mattn
Mattnanswered grow question 10 months ago
To me it looks like phosphorus deficiency. Most likely due to pH too high.
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m0use
m0useanswered grow question 10 months ago
This looks like something I had before when I overwatered some of the leaf tips started dieing like that. Best to have a bit of a dry cycle in the medium so its not so waterlogged. then anaerobic bacteria flourish and upset the dynamic sometimes cause rot or PH swings. Good Luck!
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ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 10 months ago
I moved my kids to a new larger tent. There is a larger distance from the light to to plants, different air flow and slightly cooler (more ideal temp range). The kids seem to not be growing super fast anymore. How long till they adjust? Week 7
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Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Dog
Sit_Ubu_Sit_Good_Doganswered grow question 10 months ago
greater distance but new light.. missing some details to know if it is more or less light.. insufficient as is to draw a conclusion from this information. however, after transplant i find plants can slow down slightly at first and have nothing to do with shock or anything like that... the roots search out new confines of the new pot before growth above really kicks in. Bigger the difference in pot sizes at translplat the longer this process takes. still.. ensure intensity of light at canopy is the same... greater distance with more power can still be equal to what was given before (DLI is the metric here to use so that it accounts for differing hours of operation and differing size of garden covered by that light) 35-40 DLI "at diode" is a good starting point for ambient CO2 conditions and typical hanging distances for LED.
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Organoman
Organomananswered grow question 10 months ago
Less light intensity = less plant growth..........lower your lights and growth rates should return to normal. Plants can't tell they are in a different tent, but will not like less light from a higher up, less intense lamp.
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Hashy
Hashyanswered grow question 10 months ago
I can't see moving from one tent to another would really stress the plant out unless the 2 tents environments are completely different from each other.
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ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 10 months ago
My humidity goes up to 70% with the light off (20C/68F) from around 55% with the light on (25C/77F). Will this humidity be a problem for mould when I flip into flower?
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Hashy
Hashyanswered grow question 10 months ago
My thoughts with high RH are that at 70% during lights off will be fine so long as your temps get to low, 20c should be fine, at 16c I'd imagine you will start getting rot or Wpm. This is as long as you are running your exhaust fan and oscillating fans. Your day time Rh and temps are at a decent level. Most of the time I can keep my night Rh around 60% but there are certain times during the year its almost impossible to keep it below 70%.
ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 10 months ago
Spent a lot of time in the tent yesterday. Everything was fine and this morning there’s bad discolouration on the leaves of some plants. I did lower the plant (was way too high) so may beight burn - but it’s only on some plants I did make two mixes of water/nutes
Solved
Leaves. Color - Dark-brown
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TommyBVRSA75
TommyBVRSA75answered grow question 10 months ago
Not really a huge problem and very simple to solve it. It is clear that you have a calcium imbalance, probably due to two main issues : at the moment perhaps the PH rate is very low (I assume that your PH rate is around 5.8 up to 6, and this rate is not the best for the calcium integration); second measure that you should start to provide right away is linked to the calcium available. You can solve this imbalance in not more than 36 hours, by raising the PH up to 6.3 to 6.5, after that you can provide some CalMag or solve some Bone flour in your watering process and to facilitate the integration of calcium you can put some Kelp (Ascophyllum nodosum) on the watering solution both by fertirrigation or spraying in foliar sprinkling. You have one of the best liquid kelp supplies on the Cultivers brand (on Amazon) and kelp is a kind of the magic solution for almost every stress or imbalances that you can pass trough your grows. So as I told you you can solve this problem (easily and fast - within not more than 2 days): raise up PH to 6.3/6.4 ; use a little CalMag (important...not a lousy brand but a good one, and preferable a mineral one) and finally use kelp as a stress reducer and as catalysator to calcium integration (the calcium normally is available in much products, but it's vertical availability and the way that is integrated is hard. The last option and once for me was the most optimal (but almost desperate) solution was using what a botanical PhD friend of mine, though me to do as desperate measure, that was to pick tomato seeds, let them fully dry and after that using a Moulinex grinder (the ones that you pull 1-2-3) and make a tomato seeds flour. That flour has a strong compound of calcium, the calcium oxalate that is very solvable in water and highly absorbable by the root system. So I used that once (not on cannabis, but on peppers that have revealed nasty lack of calcium along their growth) and solved my problems, very very fast. So try this and you problems with calcium shortage will be end in few days.
ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 10 months ago
My humidity near my canopy is 70% and a bit to the side is 50%. I have a decent fan inside and an extractor fan. Is this normal ?
Solved
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Hempface86
Hempface86answered grow question 10 months ago
Ya it's normal .. humidity can accumulate in some areas and not others depending on air flow and how cramped an area may be ... all should be ok just try to get better circulation in the area at 70%
ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 10 months ago
I am flipping to 12/12 light today but some nice buds sites are covered by long leaves. What’s the thoughts on defoliation just before flower. Should I defoliate lightly or not
Solved
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fatrottengrapefruit
fatrottengrapefruitanswered grow question 10 months ago
You could: - defoliate lightly before the switch (a week to a few days). So they stretch a bit more. - Lollipop two weeks after the switch
ObserverInterest
ObserverIntereststarted grow question 10 months ago
Changed nutrients as I am Now flipping to flower. What is the yelllwing of the tips of the leaves
Solved
Leaves. Color - Yellow
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SkunkleDamo
SkunkleDamoanswered grow question 10 months ago
Magnesium defic
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Budz_Bunny
Budz_Bunnycommentedweek 4a year ago
Moin ObserverInterest, Ich growe selbst auf Erde mit Bio Bizz . Deine Pflanzen sehen meiner Einschätzung nach Überwässert aus aber das kann auf Bildern gern täuschen . Wurzeln brauchen nicht nur Wasser sondern auch Sauerstoff deswegen brauchen sie unbedingt auch trockenere Phasen um Staunässe zu vermeiden was Wurzelfäule verursachen würde, zudem kommt kein Sauerstoff mehr zu den Wurzeln, siehts auch mit der Nährstoffaufnahme schlecht aus . Gerade wenn du ein Anfänger bist , fang an in kleinen Töpfen und pflanze dann 2 mal um. Der Vorteil besteht ganz einfach darin das die Wurzeln die Feuchtigkeit schnelle aufnehmen so das du alle 3 Tage gießen kannst und sicher stellst das die Wurzel auch genug Sauerstoff bekommt . Wenn der Topf dann richtig durchgewurzelt ist umtopfen in eine Zwischengröße und dann in den Endtopf . Meine beiden Vermutungen nach gibst du entweder zu viel Wasser oder Düngemittel , da die Wurzeln das was du letzte Woche gegossen hast noch nicht aufgenommen haben , da sie die Erde nicht komplett durchwurzeln . Zudem spielt dein EC wert auch eine Rolle wenn du diesen nicht kennst und normales Leitungswasser benutzt , würde ich nur 1 mal in der Woche Cal/Mag benutzen sowie 1/2 vom Düngeschema anwenden. Meine Empfehlung lass die Töpfe erstmal richtig trocknen , so das die Wurzeln deiner PFlanze trocknen können , aber Vorsicht , der untere Bereich der Töpfe wird warscheinlich nie ganz trocknen da die Wurzeln ihn Schätzungsweiße noch nicht vollständig durchwurzelt haben . Dann würde ich einmal mit , Bio heaven 2ml/l , Acti Vera 2ml/l und cal/mag 0.3 ml/l gießen auf PH 6.3 . das alles nur wenn du mit Leitungswasser arbeitest . Danach dann immer Fortfahren nach 1/2 des Düngeschemas aber nur 1 mal in der Woche Cal / Mag außer du hast einen Mangel . Die Pflanzen werden es aber trotzdem schaffen da bin ich mir sicher . Weiterhin viel Erfolg und Glück .🙏
Anchorbottom
Anchorbottomcommentedweek 0a year ago
Good luck!
Hempface86
Hempface86commentedweek 168 months ago
Congratulations on your first harvest! Great job!
gottagrowsometime
gottagrowsometimecommentedweek 139 months ago
Plants are looking good Going thru ur diaries. Some basic mistakes. HST is for near the end of pre flower.. unless used for super cropping it adds no extra energy to the plant until its stems stop growing. Until then you're just bending stems slowing veg down. (This is widely done & it's wrong. U don't HST a growing stem as the point needed for the energy boost is to the bud. If that's your point in HST idk. Yes its a tool for scrogs but topping and training the stems under the net and grow up into it is a much faster method. Giving a more desired affect imao.. All in all looking good Once pre flower is over Id start removing those huge leafs from them top bud sites. (Look over your plant as though your site shines down this will help show you were light is not moving down. With scrogs u can't move plants so to stop leafs and buds below from going dead or to larf u have to put the light wheres needed.
ViejoLoko
ViejoLokocommentedweek 1a year ago
Estas bien en intensidad y riego. Estimulante radicular a base de algas, en forma intensa en los riegos te recomendaría. Con una buena base radicular puedes acortar la fase vegetativa bastante, lo cual te conviene por la cantidad de bebes que muestras. Método y constancia es un buen camino hacia buenos humos.
MowerGrower
MowerGrowercommentedweek 0a year ago
If your grow medium is just coco and perlite then you can start to feed now. If you have any compost or organic matter I would wait for two or more weeks to feed. And the first feed I would go 1/4 to 1/2 of the recommended dosage.
James
Jamescommentedweek 0a year ago
Happy growing, and good luck with this one! 🌱
Ringoworm
Ringowormcommentedweek 0a year ago
Remember it's a weed very hard to stop so not so hard to grow just let it do its thing not to hot or cold and feed it and it will take over your room