Tent-X Ultimate Grow Challenge / Mcnuffy

I used Beauveria (Watering to the pot) to deal with them last time/switched with Fipronil 5% ( it used to be used with Thrips but it worked, I didn't spot them after a 1months of war)

You should anchor the base of the plant to the side of the pot. To prevent it uprooting when you bend the main top down.

genetics, but check your feeding, girl is not happy, i see light clawing, sign of nitrogen toxicity. those funky colours plants needs way less feeding i noticed personally.

First photo mechanical damage to stick from wind and brushing. Second - clawing leaves, nitrogen toxicity. Slow down with food ! Less is more in weed growing. Golden rule !

Lots going in in this photo. Lots of weeks missing in the journal for this strain, so I'll do my best guess based in my experiences. Pretty sure I've experienced this before. Looks like late stage light burn, maybe wind burn as well. The lower leaves under the canopy are dark green, not necessarily unhealthy. This light or heat stress is holding things up IMO. Overvtime it is killing your plant. It is definitely a problem up top. One bud almost look like bud rot about to set in. The other plant, top of your pic, not 100% in the photo with all the pistils, has twisty and curled up fan fingers, usually related to PH at the roots in young plants, and early stage heat or light stress in older plants. Abnormal growth patterns often due to imbalanced nutes and the plant improperly transpiring. Humidity and temp check required as well. PH at the roots, and over watering issues can affect a plants ability to deal with a perfect environment, have a grower chasing all sorts of issues. lights, heat, etc, affecting transpiring and ability grow the plant healthy. It's a weed so it pushes on, ugly with less than ideal fruit. I strongly suggest looking at Environmental issues but look into the media PH at the roots as well and your watering practices. Because this is a common issue. Use a cheap probe meter to know when to water. Not for accuracy, but reference. For the banana, start by lifting your lights. Do not follow the manufacturer distance to plant canopy unless your environment is dialed in.. if you can afford get a good Par/light meter. It's a game changer. It's too late into flower for new growth to let you know when You've actually corrected the issue, so I'd say focus on observing the health of the plant under those burnt tops. Bud rot is systemic so if you let it take hold the whole plant is compromised. You also may find that the necrotic sugar leaves could turn into bud rot after harvest as they died off inside that really burnt bud...so if the banana makes it to harvest store those tops separately.. I have measured my light for years , as I have experienced similar issues when I first went to LED lights. Cob and LED specifically. The light too close and too intence even though heat wasn't the direct cause..I learned less is more. Also realize when you zip up your tent the reflection from the material can increase your light intensity. Allot. This is my go to advise I got from a master grower via another forum. I wish I could give cudos to the guy who wrote it. Following this with LED lights greatly increased my quality and quantity. From home grown to top shelf. "For ultra dense buds in my experience with cannabis, I have found the following gives the best grow results using LED's. 250 PAR - Seedlings 450 PAR - teens up until around 9-20inches of height and until I can spread out to a flat canopy. 500 PAR - Switch to 12/12 lighting 750 PAR - Mid bloom week 3 850 PAR - mid-late bloom week 4-6 sometimes 7 400 PAR - Last three weeks 7-10 This works great and the 400par shading nearing the end harvest time ensure the plants very low photo-response. so letting her rest those last two to three weeks causes phenominal girth and trich output ! Hard tight nugs." All the best.