NOTE: THE COUNTING OF DAYS STARTS FROM THE DAY THE SEED STARTS ITS PROCESS, IN THIS GROW DAY 1 WAS THE MOMENT THE SEED GOT INSERTED INTO THE EASY START (i do not recomend this method for experienced growers, but higly recomend it to unexperienced growers that might accidentally damage their seedling's new root as they move them from the germination zone into their next or final pot, with easy start you can just pick up the small cube of soil and place it inside the next pot GENTLY).
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Gorilla Glue Autoflower, also known as Gorilla Glue 4, has been gaining a lot of popularity lately. Somethings that's not surprising when you consider that Gorilla Glue has won several awards (Cannabis Cups).
By the way, the name 'Gorilla Glue' is due to the difficulty in cutting off the buds. The resin is so sticky that the blades of the scissors stick together. A good sign. Because these sticky buds contain an extremely high THC content of up to 26%!
Gorilla Glue Autoflower also has a fantastic taste and is easy to grow because it is an autoflower.
Origin
Gorilla Glue 4 was created by mixing three powerful variants: Chem's Sister, Sour Dubb and Chocolate Diesel. This has resulted in a super hybrid (50% Indica, 40% Sativa and 10% Ruderalis) which is now known as a 'heavy-hitter'. While smoking you will notice that you don't want or can't get off the couch anymore. That's how it relaxes you.
Effects Gorilla Glue 4 Autoflower
We've already revealed it a bit above, but the effect of Gorilla Glue 4 is strong. The THC content of this plant shoots through the roof and gives the concept of being relaxed a new dimension. Still, you don't have to worry about falling asleep, because the effect of Gorilla Glue is cheerful and euphoric rather than soporific. It's the ideal weed if you want to chill out and relax with friends.
Specifications Gorilla Glue autoflowering feminized seeds
THC level 26%
CBD level 1%
Variety 50% Indica / 40% Sativa / 10% ruderalis
Genetics Sour Dubb x Chocolate Diesel x Chemโs Sister ruderalis
Max yield indoor 400 to 600 grams/m2
Max yield outdoor 450 to 800 grams/m2
Height indoor 60 to 100 cm
Height outdoor 100 to 150 cm
Flowering time 56 to 70 days
Fungal Resistance High
Growersprofile Beginner
Cultivation Indoor, Outdoor, Greenhouse
Climate Temperate, Mediterranean, Arid, Tropical, Mountains
Flavors Citrus, Diesel, Fruity, Sweet, Pine
Effects Energetic, Euphoric, Uplifting
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First pot substrate mix:
2.5l โAuto Mix 2.0โ (CBG)
1l Aged eucalyptus leaf and trunk fibers
1l Organic garden soil
Final pot substrate mix:
47.5l โAuto Mix 2.0โ (CBG)
10l Aged eucalyptus leaf and trunk fibers
10l Organic garden soil
22l Coco
10l Perlite
5l โMega Wormโ (Plagron)
1.8l Vermiculite
600g โNitroguanoโ (Top Crop)
150g โProNeemโ (Trabe)
100g โEasy Boost Organicโ (RoyalQueenSeeds)
100g Wood Ash
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UPDATES:
14/10 Seed(s) placed into "Easy Start" kit and placed inside of a humidity dome.
19/10 transplanted 4 out of the 10 and gave those that were transplanted 25ml to 35ml of plain water.
Note: They took a fairly long time compared to my regular germination method and 2 out of the 10 seem to have been stuck inside, as a result i ended up adding one more seed directly into a pot to make up for a total of 9 plants to fill up the SOG, i am not going to use a easy start kit again, seems like they are just a fast and easy way to germinate seeds if you don't already know how to do so properly without said kit.
@Olffgrow, looks like it might be overwatering, you're gonna want to let the soil dry out in the inner portion before watering again and at the start give em little ammounts of water more often like 50ml then 100, 250, 500, etc etc as she grows.
Don't have fans hitting directly the plants, just have enough air circulating to make the leaves woble a little but without having any violent shakes, just like a tree in a very light breeze, only minor leaf movement otherwise its too much wind.
Try moving the light a little bit further too so they can streetch a bit and get more light to the lower portion of the plants.
This should fix the issue, i had the exact same problems when i watered every other day, then i started to realise sometimes they take up to 8 days to drink the whole water from the pot.
Overwatering is the most trending issue among new growers and very often discarded as the issue because we belive the soil to be dry when it actually isn't, i could be wrong tho, but i would go with the overwatering if it was my plants.
Less water, less often, and move the lights a bit further, when you see leaves pointing up it means its fixed, if they point too much up like a wall you need the light closer, if the leaves stay flat like the ground then you need to move it further, but the watering cycles will after leaf position as when you water they will go down but after a while they go back up, you want to reach a point where they are always up, but when the lower leaves start wilting you know its time to water again, then move the light accordingly to their position, leaves up (they want more light) leaves flat ( they have enough light) leaves down (they have too much light); all leaves wilting (too much water) lower leaves wilting (too little water).
There are some variations but as a rule of thumb i go by this, but i often just stick my finger in the soil as when i get a dry finger on the way up i know its about time within a day or two and keep an eye out for the moment they start wilting at the bottom. (Even if these bottom leaves die from underwatering you still don't get bad results as those leaves become shadowed by the upper leaves indoors anyway, so rather lose the bottom leaves than to get damage on the whole plant from overwatering, thus the saying : its best to underwater than overwater.)
Given you just transplanted them they should start growing bigger now, just need a little time to recover and then they should get to growing up to their pot size again, they were in too small cups before wich limited their size of structure, you may want to start them up in slightly bigger cups next time, like american drinking cups, the ones with about half a liter volume, those would be indicated for seedling stage, these plastic cups look like the european 200ml cups, wich offer a space too small for the root and takes them a bigger time to achieve a big enough root given their structure is limited to a very small size wich is what will power the root, wich powers the plant overall.
Bigger the pot, bigger the plant, less transplants = less stress, altho with photoflowers you can gain more from getting this well developed root mass before setting it in a bigger pot, but you won't want to go too small with the pot size either.
Hope it helps even if just a little bit, this is some of the information i wish i had from the start.
@Weedseedsexpress, oh i can vouch for that, i'm a bit of lazy updating latelly but gg2 has been harvested and the taste and high from the sample was just amazing with a great yield to go along with it, certainly better than i expected her to get from early flower estimates. Congratz on the genetics, really good. Would gladly fill up a tent with your genetics from corner to corner if ur up 4 that too.