17/12- All watered with 650ml of water each followed by 650ml of water with the nutrients in the concentrations above.
21/12- All watered with 650ml of water each followed by 650ml of water with the nutrients in the following concentrations.
Ancient- 1ml/l
Big Fruits- 0,042ml/l
Micro- 0,2ml/l
@Olffgrow, looks like it might be overwatering, you're gonna want to let the soil dry out in the inner portion before watering again and at the start give em little ammounts of water more often like 50ml then 100, 250, 500, etc etc as she grows.
Don't have fans hitting directly the plants, just have enough air circulating to make the leaves woble a little but without having any violent shakes, just like a tree in a very light breeze, only minor leaf movement otherwise its too much wind.
Try moving the light a little bit further too so they can streetch a bit and get more light to the lower portion of the plants.
This should fix the issue, i had the exact same problems when i watered every other day, then i started to realise sometimes they take up to 8 days to drink the whole water from the pot.
Overwatering is the most trending issue among new growers and very often discarded as the issue because we belive the soil to be dry when it actually isn't, i could be wrong tho, but i would go with the overwatering if it was my plants.
Less water, less often, and move the lights a bit further, when you see leaves pointing up it means its fixed, if they point too much up like a wall you need the light closer, if the leaves stay flat like the ground then you need to move it further, but the watering cycles will after leaf position as when you water they will go down but after a while they go back up, you want to reach a point where they are always up, but when the lower leaves start wilting you know its time to water again, then move the light accordingly to their position, leaves up (they want more light) leaves flat ( they have enough light) leaves down (they have too much light); all leaves wilting (too much water) lower leaves wilting (too little water).
There are some variations but as a rule of thumb i go by this, but i often just stick my finger in the soil as when i get a dry finger on the way up i know its about time within a day or two and keep an eye out for the moment they start wilting at the bottom. (Even if these bottom leaves die from underwatering you still don't get bad results as those leaves become shadowed by the upper leaves indoors anyway, so rather lose the bottom leaves than to get damage on the whole plant from overwatering, thus the saying : its best to underwater than overwater.)
Given you just transplanted them they should start growing bigger now, just need a little time to recover and then they should get to growing up to their pot size again, they were in too small cups before wich limited their size of structure, you may want to start them up in slightly bigger cups next time, like american drinking cups, the ones with about half a liter volume, those would be indicated for seedling stage, these plastic cups look like the european 200ml cups, wich offer a space too small for the root and takes them a bigger time to achieve a big enough root given their structure is limited to a very small size wich is what will power the root, wich powers the plant overall.
Bigger the pot, bigger the plant, less transplants = less stress, altho with photoflowers you can gain more from getting this well developed root mass before setting it in a bigger pot, but you won't want to go too small with the pot size either.
Hope it helps even if just a little bit, this is some of the information i wish i had from the start.
@Weedseedsexpress, oh i can vouch for that, i'm a bit of lazy updating latelly but gg2 has been harvested and the taste and high from the sample was just amazing with a great yield to go along with it, certainly better than i expected her to get from early flower estimates. Congratz on the genetics, really good. Would gladly fill up a tent with your genetics from corner to corner if ur up 4 that too.