PPM and environmental levels question

Turn the light down. A 7000 series light isnt small is it? Id be running it at 50% for now, That be more than enough for now and cheaper power bills too. And while plant is recovering from an issue its usually a good idea not to blast the shit out of them with light. They have enough going on and dont need light stress on top of it all.

What levels did you add each of the flora trio at?

Lungs

It's all snake oil

I run 12-1400 ppms at home with nothing but a 4inch fan. And 4 sets of

Chances of surpassing it is low , just keep an eye for the easily identifiable symptoms of heat stress. Bleached tips and curling sattelite leaves. Trust me you will see a difference. Good luck

The curve is endless really but little point in surpassing 2000, 1000 1500 , 2000 with co2. It's a sharp curve till you hit 1500. Anything over 2000 is pointless as it more or less flatlines around there.

P.s rh is a measure of water vapor mixed in the air. Cannabis will close its tiny little air holes on back of leaves from 65rh and above to prevent "drowning", this will seriously hamper the plants ability to perspire and will result in greatly reduced photosynthesis. Rh ideally should sit around d 40 -50

@Exbeginner What happens if canopy temp is 86 but PPFD values are over 1000? I heard that's the max that they can use without CO2.

Thanks, I'll increase my light intensity til I hit 86 at the canopy...fingers crossed!

Hiya pal, just going to rhyme off some stuff that may or may not be relevant. Optimal photosynthesis happens at a leaf temperature of 86. The rh at bottom of a tent is 20-40rh lower than the top. Measurements must be kept at canopy and rootzones. It's unlikely you will be able to push growth past optimal saturation points so forget everything anyone e told you about recommended distance. The only thing to really worry about until you gain experience is keeping the top of the canopy at 86. Try for ambient 82-84 distance the light as close as you can to reach 86. Anything over 87 will degrade trichomes and illicit stress responses from plants. (Useful to know during flower) Temperatures below 67 will begin to degrade chlorophyll. To prevent growth inhibition keep it above 67 . When it comes to humidity think of it like 50% as the perfect medium. Anything over will get wetter anything under will dry out. (Obviously more complex) but It doesn't need to be. So long as you have sufficient air circulation / ventilation anything over 50% will be ok, but if there is a single dead spot within your grow that for example recieves slightly less air than others you will start to see stagnation take effect, dampness left too long within the soil will become perfect breeding ground for bacteria. You just stop feeding/watering until the medium is bone dry, the plant will visibly tell you when it's short of water. With usual symptoms of drought. Do not water until you can feel the pot is bone dry. Don't fret if what you see is leaves drooping , the ant can tell drought is approaching and will lower leaves, stems will sag. No bacteria can survive drought. Give small doses of water from then on in. Measure size of your tent in cubic feet Length , width, height. Inline duct fans are rated by cfm Cubic feet per minute. You will want to double your cfm if you use a carbon filter and add 100 cfm for every 6-12feet of ducting. You will need to vastly increase your ventilation, Increase in photosynthesis will increase perspiration. =high rh. Flowering will see massive spike in rh too as bud growth is in full swing. What problems you have now will continue and worsen as ants grow bigger, get more air blasting in the tent. Good luck.