Hello my name is Seth I'm 23 I'm from Ca...

you'll need a room, tentn or similar that can effectively control length of night. a powerful light that can amp up or otherwise be 150% stronger over 12 hours vs 18h during vege. 2 lights is often a good idea. it can save electricity and provide a lower seed-to-harvest cost. Electricty will be your single largest variable and ongoing cost. It is often worth it to invest a bit more up front in lighting and it will save you greater amount of money in the long run. warm white base diode will be 95% of the light. lm301's run at 0.25w per diode or at least <0.40w per diode using top bin. 3000k cct. some red/far red would drop the average cct lower and probably the minimum you want, but even just pure white diodes will do fine too. Learn math of "DLI" (daily light integral)... ranges of ppfd you likely want to reach given ambient conditions, most importantly whether you add co2. you can work with this information to properly size the light you need for the area you intend to cover (i.e. indoor graden size). 800-900ish ppfd vs 1100-1200ish ppfd? allows you to compare apples to apples. you need 66% of the light over 18hours vs 12hours. it's difficult to have 1 light that does it all efficiently that doesn't skimp during most importnat phase - bloom. so, consider 2 lights for early and late. a seedling light as a cheap third option for first 2-3 weeks is also nice to have. extreme diming impacts integrity of the light's spectrum. it will deviate from the pretty curve they advertise at soem point. reference original manufacturer of driver and diode spec sheets, as it varies. get something like jack's or maxigro? 2 or 3 part system that allows some adjustments to picky plants, but doesn't require "20" additional products to supplement it. soilless is probably the easiest, no frills way to grow. mix a 700-750ppm fert, water to 10% runoff (waste) and make small adjustments relative to VPD and other factors like genetics. fertilier is cheap.. don't pay for name brand bullshit. e.g. there is no "class" of ammonium nitrate. it is always teh same molecule and always functions the same way. I spend less than /year on fertilizer. 0 == 4,667 gallons and 8lbs of cal nitrate leftover, lol. Another area worth spending a few bucks more -- inline exhaust/intake fans, if oyu use a tent or otherwise need them. an "EC" motor gives greater control over power and more efficient with electricity. Terrabloom is an excellent option. i won't say the other name cause i'd rather eat dog shit than advertise for them. (fuck ac infinity, lol) but, if their hergometer control vs temp control of terrabloom is more useful, so be it. prices are comparable.. if you run it the same 24hours, go terrabloom. they are not dirtbags that push the ramifications of their own mistakes onto customers. obviously need some ducting. if they are selling stuff with black inerior, jump on it. it's the easiest path for a light leak into tent or room. I would always go larger than you need with exhaust/intake fans. Aim to run them at 50% or less and it'll be quieter and last longer. 4"ers can't do much unles you pair 2 up for a 4x4. probably has to run fairly hard for a 3x3 as an exhaust only. the benefit of intake+exhaust is you can adjust the presser... slight positve pressure will push walls out slightly as opposed to losing space from a negative pressure.. negative pressure will be better at containing smell , if that is an issue. Carbon filters.. if they are cheap or don't list the amount of carbon used to fill the filter in grams.. you should be suspicious of quality. if no concern for smell, screw these overpriced things, lol. easy to add automation if not going gung ho from the start. Can do dutch buckets or pure hydro with the same nutes. lots of options and kinda get your feet wet in several areas to see what you like best. Maybe you don't mind your house smelling like poop? you can even go organic, bwahahah. chelated nutes and more frequent irrigations will realize greater rate of growth. circulation fans maybe, drainage pumps etc.. (6" raised platform with drainage to a condensate pump saves a lot of effort. or, simply a pump with a float switch that can also handle dirty water would be even better) maybe, irrigation pumps etc.. doesn't need to be fancy to work well, but does need to be fancy to work well on a schedule with multple independent zones. at least some sort of drip manifold to easily callibrate flow to each pot. can get fancy with a controller and pump relay switches... gives ability to irrigate remotely or automatically on a schedule. Larger the garden, the more automation recommended. drain to waste is simple, can get similar to hydro results with a frequent irrigation setup and hedges risks by having a solid substrate. great starting point and even great place to stay.

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