NEW LED HELP FOR NEW NEXT INDOOR SEASON

you got a nice amount of grows. email and dm the companies listed below. they will most likely sponsor a light to you.

how many sq ft? photoperiods or autoflowers? this will make up to a 150% difference in suggested light intensity relative to area covered. Shoot for 75-85 umol/s per square foot for photoperiods. This is because you need 150% more power over 12 hours vs 18. This amounts to just under 40 DLI over 12 hours of use. (83umol/s per sq ft = 900ppfd, which is 38.9DLI over 12 hours of use) I could use a dli chart and work backward for the autos like i did here, or i can simply take 66% of the 75-85umol/s suggestion. it is directly proportional 1:1 with hours of use. you only have to calculate this once for a light.. after that can just factor based on hours of use differences. using DLI Table i see "600" PPFD for 18 hours and a similar resulting DLI of "38.9" at that cross-section. 600ppfd / 10.76ft/m^2 = 55umol/s per sq foot. Or, the faster route of 85 x .667 = 57ish umol/s... rounding accounts for the difference we see here. (ballpark values, so a +/- a few is non big deal, do shoot for high side for reasons explained below) So, let's assume 3x3, given a 250w previous hid used. maybe, a 3x2? but will go with 9 sq ft. Photoperiod -- 9 sq ft X 83umol/s = 750 umol/s is a good ballpark for your LED light. Autoflowers -- 9sq ft X 55umol/s = 500umol/s Once again you can see one is 150% of the other... direclty due to 12hours vs 18 hours of use. You'll want to apply the 'autoflower' numbers to vegetative phase too.... also, if you dn't use 18/6, you can adjust relative to your standard hours of use. if fewer, you need proporitonally more umol/s and vice versa if >18hours. simple algebra. the plant can't handle more light in flower... it simply needs 150% more in 66% fewer hours per day of light. same DLI in mature vege and bloom phase will likely be used. You'll use the plant's behaviour for finer resolution on what the plant can actually handle per day... needing a bit less than 100% is a good thing, in general, but not by huge amounts. an extra 10-11% on day 1 is a good thing. it is better than being short of "maximum relative to your environment" If you tightly control environement AND you add/maintain co2 at 1300ppm, you can increase all these values 25-33%. Yield should be roughly proportional to this addition, too. so, you can do the math on whether the cost to do so is justified or not. don't add co2 if you don't also tightly control temp and RH (VPD). otherwise it's an e-peen or wasted effort. Spec sheets are not always accurate. They often lie about umol/s or ppfd, et al. cheaper products lie more often. if you buy the more expensive stuff, like FC-xxxx series from Mars (FC-3000 in this case), it's more accurate and you can use that spec sheet info. umol/s / watts = umol/J (efficacy) if you only see umol/J advertised, you can multiply "umol/J" X "watts" = umol/s ... this all depends on accurate info given or it's a waste of time to do. good for double checking their math too. if lm301b/h diode base, there are some simple tricks to check their honesty. anything advertising 2.7-2.9umol/J or higher efficacy is only truthful if the watts per diode are near 0.25watts/diode. This gets even more complicated given different 'binning' of diodes. not all lm301b/h diodes are the same efficacy. if they are 0.4 - 0.5 watts per diode, expect a 2.5umol/J or lower efficacy... and it quickly goes downhill. "Top bin" diodes can push that 2.8umol/J range at 0.4w/diode but rarely do manufacturers actually use the best 'bin.' safer to stick near 0.25w/diode if you want a high-end light. This is more useful if DIY'ing your lights. A Mars FC 3000 has >800umol/s .. the spec sheet is fairly accurate. if their given efficacy is 'off' it is off by 1/100ths at worst. This would be an example of a high end light for a 3x3 photoperiod grow. Run at 66% for mature vege and autoflowers. a viparspectra xs2000 -- mid range product with excellent heat sink and decent efficacy. They clearly don't know what umol/s means in their advertising, though. (https://www.viparspectra.shop/products/xs-series-xs2000). showing 1845umol/s is fucking stupid, sory vipar... you make good products but why lie like this? 1845 / 240w = ja nonsensical 7+ umol/J efficacy... there is no diode on earth that can do this, currently. it is more than double the max you can do given current technology. Still a good product but takes a little more to understand what it provides. based on 504 diode count.. its 0.47watts per diode. i would guesstimate 2.5umol/J... so maybe 600umol/s Still a great ight.. good build quiality. it'd be more than you need for autoflowers, but not extravegently so... it'd be almost perfect for autos in a 3x3 and you can mitigate any dimmingn over 5-7 years to maintain same intensity on canopy throughout its use. It'd still be sufficient for photoperiods too, but a lower DLI would result in a lower yield than what is possible in a 3x3 for just a few more watts of power. for 80usd more, i'd go with the fc3000, especially for photoperiods in a 3x3. it runs cooler, should last longer for that reason. you would get the full 50-60k hours of use from this light. The vipar runs hotter, and will have a slightly shorter lifespan (relative to proportional intensity produced on day 1). but both can work well for photos and autos, fwiw. You may not have as large of a a yield with xs2000 (not just due to fewer watts but watt for watt comparison), but quality won't suffer. your grams per watt will be a bit lower too (slightly more expensive per gram, but in 9sq ft, this is a small difference in cost relative to gram produced of bud) i'd probably want a bit more oomph in a 3x3 than the xs2000, but it wouldn't be detrimental to use on in a 3x3. personal preference, personal finances... all sorts of other factors are involved in such a decision... i don't want to be pompous about it. this is an outline of how to work backward from the area you want to cover and buy appropriately powered lights to power the growth in that area. swap out relevant info and it'll work for any space.. google a "DLI CHART" or make one.. they are a simple table to make.. ------------------------------------------------------ more nitty gritty as to why/how.... These are ballpark figures and not meant to be used in a super precise way. i'm prolly overshooting 5-10% to account for loss of photons to your reflective walls (7-10% each time they 'bounce') or simply miss the plant. This also mitigates any dimming over teh 5-7 years of a light. good procuts list what is called an L90, which means after X hous it will be 90% of original intensity. Having an extra 10% can mitigate that over the entire time period and maintain same intensity as first grow (assues dimed 10% or an inch or two further away to accomplish similar 'dimming' relative to canopy. vocab, if unknown PPFD is relative to 1 m^2. so i'm just converting that to a per sq ft value to more easily apply to a new space. simply multiple the suggested umol/s i converted X sq feet to get total umol/s your light "should" produce to be up near top-end, given atmospheric CO2 and a loosely controlled environment.) umol/s is photons of light per second. umol/J is efficacy measurement... basically how many photons vs heat produced from watts/s.... watts/s = joules/s... the algebra should make sense now. efficacy x watts = umol/s produced watts / umol/s = efficacy knowing these relationships help spot fraudulent spec sheets. learning samsung.com spec sheet for lm301b/h will also help sniff out bullshit. e.g. that spec sheet is for a 5000k diode run at 0.25watts ... it's efficacy is 3.10umol/J ... but wamer white light is less efficent. Reds, IR and UV all are lower efficacy than the white diodes, but only comprise about 5% of total, so wth eweighted average isn't largely impacted, but should be lower than what samsung.com says. anything advertising >3umol/J is 99.999% lying their asses off.... unless it's all 5000k diodes and rnning at 0.25w/diode/0.65ma or whatever milliamps if i have decimal in wrong spot, the digits are right. went off top of head... if samsung lists 6500k for spec sheet, ignore my mention of 5000k. the concept communicated is still true.

Ciao! Potresti provare della Mars Hydro la TS2000 che va benissimo per una grow 120x120, altrimenti le FC (la 3000) che sono buone💪 io uso la ts 1000 ma va bene solo per 90x90 quindi evitala.