Auto crop plan

for reference with different sizes than 1m^2... common sense... smaller space with same light is a higher DLI. e.g. 1/2 m^2 would only need 1/2 of waht was suggested in previous answer. OR, a 2m^2 area would need twice as much... it is proportional. umol/s divided by area in m^2 = PPFD 600 / .5 = 1200ppfd.. this would be overkill for ambient co2, for example, but about right for boosted co2 over 12 hours. (DLI chart needed and should be 50-60dli range off top of my head. would guess 55ish) -- i looked 51.8 DLI. hours of use and size of garden relative to 1m^2 -- proportionally 1:1 to resulting DLI DLI is a better metric to use for this... regardless of garden size or autos vs photos... they have the same ceiling of what tehy can handle per day based on environs like temp/rh and co2

.85 * 1.25 = 1.0625 m^2 it's roughly 1 m^2, which makes for easy math... reference a DLI table (daily light integral) hours + ppfd is needed to reference a table. hours of use is simple, obviously. ppfd depends on size of garden relative to 1m^2 and umol/s of light produced by the light. since you are 1m^2, there is no conversion here.. you can simply use the umol/s produced by the light as PPFD. Hopefully you have an accurate spec sheet... this is not always the case. watts, while more recognizeable, is a retarded way to measure this. watts = different umol/s produced based on efficacy of the equipment... some need more watts, some need less.. .what stays teh same is the umol/s needed... so this is what you should focus on. 100 watts is not enough for a 1m^2 even with most efficient equipment possible. that'd be 300ppfd and even 20 hours a day only adds up to 21.6 DLI which would be a bare minimum to grow weed within reason... lots of room above. ambient co2 = DLI 35-40 will be max. 1300ppm cow = 50-60 dli max. If you are growing autoflowers only on an 18/6 cycle, you can use a light that produces roughly 600 umol/s. This amounts to a 38-39DLI. Low efficacy LED lights: 600 / 2.2 = 273W Average efficacy: 600 / 2.5 = 240W High efficacy 600 / 2.9 = 207W You can see the efficacy (quality) of LED lights greatly impacts watts needed for 1m^2 on an 18/6 cycle. Because i know that math i can skip some steps for photoperiod requirements on a 12/12 light cycle. It needs 150% more in 12 hours to equal the above in 18 hours.. it is proportional to hours of use. But, copy/paste is easer so the math is written out again. "900 ppfd" is used because 600 * 1.5 = 900, which will provide taht same 38-39DLI Low efficacy LED lights: 900 / 2.2 = 409W Average efficacy: 900 / 2.5 = 360W High efficacy 900 / 2.9 = 310W Now, this math is a guide... not exact numbers to use... loads of variables play a role that differ in each garden. Also, using umol/s from light is an over-estimation. Some portion of those photons never hit the plant or get absorbed by walls after several refelctions (.9 x .9 x .9 .. it dwindles faster than you think after 6-7 reflections.) Which is okay, because 40dli is probably a bit on high side anyway... 800-900 PPFD is a good starting point for 12 hours of light and ambient co2. With a smaller space the efficacy plays a smaller role... less money saved per month. higher efficacy lights are the ones that can actualyl last 50,000 hours. less efficient lights proclaiming same longevity are lying... anything that deviates from samsung.com spec sheet for the lm301 diodes (best white diode on market) means reduced longevity, reduced efficacy.. this is how you verify the info on teh specification sheet. some companies do really shady shit... like divide a PPFD by watts to determine efficacy.. this is a bullshit calculation purposefully using the wrong metric.. umol/s / w/s = umol/J (** w/s = j/s, so skipping a needless step of multipling by a factor of "1/1" **) or, they absolutely lie about the umol/s ... here some tips to avoid the liars.. total watts / total diodes... anything above 0.25 watts/diode is going to reduce longevity and efficacy.. while increasing proporiton of heat produced... heat = wasted electricity. The low / mid / high efficacy tiers i listed above are roughty 0.25w/diodes - 0.4-0.5w/diode - > 0.5w/diode -- it's an increasingly worse slope the further away from 0.25. This increases electricity to create same number of photons while also reducing longevity of the diode with excess heat. (>25C at diode will reduce longevity... samsung spec sheet lists 25C as how it determined the longevity curve, as well as runing the diodes at 0.25watts/diode) efficacy numbers >3.0 ... while possible it is very unlikely... and anything >3.0 through 3.10 is an utter lie. When greater than 3.1umol/J you know they are bastardizing the math one way or another.... lying ... there is a white 5000k diode that hits 3.1umol/J, but it'd have to be the only diode used to reach 3.1 umol/J... most the red diodes are quite inefficient. there's an expensive cree red diode that is 2.9umol/J but is cost prohibitive unless oyu are DIY'ing you won't see it used. most are 1.8-2.0, but they are only 4-5% of diode count so weighted average is not impacted greatly... uv diodes are less efficient... other things added will reduced efficacy.. so 3.1 and greater is impossible. not to mention you wouldn't want a 5000K CCT light. CCT isn't extremely important, but if the choice is there, a lower cct near 3000K is prefered. my lights are 3394K... i don't see any issues compared to my diy 2900K lights. but with large enough sample size there is a statistically significant difference.. albiet small. read up on DLI, PPFD, umol/s and how all that math jives.. it'll help weed out the liars and over-promised nonsense. there is no integrity in this world, lol.. just 8 billion predators.

It’s literally just doing math. 100<150<200 Congrats AI.

Bruhhh why are you asking AI

What equipment will you be using for the grow and is it the purple leds in the grow diary's you have if so you really needs better lights to get better results and 4 plants in the small tent is a bit much do you have fans filters and controller for the fans exc the pictures are bit confusing as what you are doing and what plants are you doing as there is a few different diary's

Why ask when you have dairys on here

You can take one board or some thing of 240w-320w for your plan!

More light is always good. 100W is certainly very low - particularly for "4-6 plants" - but it is absolutely possible to grow weed with just 100W in LEDs. You asked it "what is ideal": more light is ideal, so it's not wrong. To be honest, given that you've chosen to ask the bot for this info, I'd be tempted to do exactly as it says as an experiment (throughout the grow, not just now!) and see what kind of results you get. Chat.gpt is incredible, but it's ultimately as aggregate of the info available to it on the Internet, so it'll probably give you pretty decent advice! Slightly scary thought 😂😁