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Co2 bei 100% lichtleistung? Ja oder nein?

w33dhawk
w33dhawkstarted grow question a year ago
Kann ich die Lampe auf 100% auf 1qm ohne Co2 boost benutzen (wird meine erste LED Erfahrung)
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Week 16
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Sciolistic_Steve
Sciolistic_Steveanswered grow question a year ago
you've got about 45watts per sq ft. If this is a high efficacy light, you only need about 32-33w per sq ft. 75% is probably all you'll be able to do... definitely observe plant and react to how it behaves. this is for a mature plant, not seedlings. But you can always use resulting internode length to guide adjustments. too lanky, needs more. too tight, needs less. This can be a good thing. you could also run with a little extra waste of watts, raise light slgihtly, if possible, and get a more even distribution across canopy. Is the yield boost going to justify teh extra watts? no idea. but, you will improve quality of buds along edges and corners. using a phone app you can adjust power so that you get that same value in center, and should have an improved value on edges than before. Sometimes a tent or grow space doesn't allow an extra 2-4" of height, so it depends on your context there. It won't take much extra distance to improve the outskirts and there's a point where it definitely becomes too wasteful or a detriment to larger central area under the light. So, as far as distance, i'd pick this based on distribution of coverage across canopy -- and assumes it causes no damage to anything, of course. even 2-3-4 weeks of exposure. small problems takea long time to progress. take notes. fine adjustments require more than "feel"
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Sciolistic_Steve
Sciolistic_Steveanswered grow question a year ago
This is for photoperiod 12/12 as baseline. If you grow autos exclusively, then you can use 66% of the values listed here and it'll be same DLI over 18 hours (1:1 directly proportional to hours of use, easy algebra, more explained later on DLI. Do read the wiki page on it, though.) it's probably a bit too much power, unless efficacy is really low. Exactly what you want depends on umol/s specification of PAR wavelengths of light... umol/s is 'enough' to remember. 1m^2 is easy. no division needed. Your umol/s produced wiill be the max PPFD you can produce. PPFD is simply umol per second per meter-squared and factored by hours per day of use. Referencing hours of use and PPFD on a DLI chart will tell you the best measurement for this exercise, DLI - Daily Light Integral. Essentially how many photons hit the plant per day per incremental area of 1 m^2. It allows apples to apples comparison of energy given to the plant per day - size of garden and hours of use are baked into it. So a light with 800-900umol/s (happens to be 800-900PPFD in your case) will easily hit 'max' DLI in 1m^2. That's up near 40 DLI. 35-40 DLI is likely the most you'll get from ambeint co2. YMMV bc co2 levels vary, temps vary, RH varies and they all impact how efficiently the plant performs photosynthesis when chlorophyl absorbs a photon. 1300ppm co2 and tightly controlled environment to match could go as high as 55-60D DLI These numbers help you get started. You always have to observe and react to plant for final adjustments. but, take notes of distance from canopy, power % and hours per day of use. IT'll be an even smaller ballpark to adjust next time - unless you tightly control temps and rh etc, it'll always be a little different - also some genetic variation is possible. But, this will get you close each time. Not much guesswork. The best distance is about geometry. What distance gives best coverage even along edges and corners? How much can yo sacrifice in the middle without actually hurting yourself? A phone app can help here. Phone apps, no matter what they say, measure klux. Some 'convert' it to PAR or PPFD, but these are not accurate conversions. They are however, precise, and precise is a useable tool. You can easily know with accuracy and precisiosn the proportional dropoff from center. If the light has any "par" maps at various distances from canopy, you can use this to understand how much actual umol/s you are applying in any one spot. 800-900 is all you need, but in reality you'll probably have a bit more than that in center and a good chunk less than that on edges and corners. i would wager nothing less than 50% in corners, raise light a bit if you need to improve corners and edges a bit. lower if the center area is sacrificing too much. qb - 20-24" ? more of a bar style may get as close as 12-16". I have a bar/led strip style frame and can burn/bleach buds at about 12-14" after 2 weeks or so... realize some damage takes a long time to present itself. keep notes. Your light looks like something between thin bars and a QB. 18-22" probably do you well. Distnace dramatically spreads light or focuses it (inverse square law, complicated by 1000s of points of light). fyi, for areas not 1m^2, you just take your umol/s divide by area -- so dividing by a smaller area would mean more PPFD and a larger area would make it smaller -- makes sense? Again, this is somewhat theoretical maximum. you will always be a bit less than the calcualtion, but we rely on the plant for the fine-tuning adjustments, anyway. Light willmiss the plant. Light will be absorbed by the wall. Light will hit spots on plant with much less chlorophyl (stems, flower whatever isn't top layers of leaves) ... So, the DLI calculated here is "at diode" but there are thousands of diodes, lol, so it's even morecomplicated than my simplifications above, but in the end works well. Again, this is based on biggest needs during 12/12 of a photoperiod plant. on an 18/6 cycle you'd need 66% of this suggested power. It would amount to same DLI. i have a good drive link in profile with useful charts, leaf symptom reference, etc... ignore the DLI tables 2nd worksheet - it's old and suggests too much for ambient co2. must download them, obviously i can't have ppl editing the sheets online. no marcros, 100% safe. if you don't want that, simply google "dli table' or daily light integral table. and you can easily find one there too.
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massivetids
massivetidsanswered grow question a year ago
Yes you can use this lamp on full power during the flowering phase. I would not use it on full power during the seedling and vegging phase. Read the manual and see what heights (distance from the plants) they recommend to prevent light burning.
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GMSgrows
GMSgrowsanswered grow question a year ago
Not recommended but is possible as long as the light is high enough away from the plants and the heat is kept under control
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