This is for photoperiod 12/12 as baseline. If you grow autos exclusively, then you can use 66% of the values listed here and it'll be same DLI over 18 hours (1:1 directly proportional to hours of use, easy algebra, more explained later on DLI. Do read the wiki page on it, though.)
it's probably a bit too much power, unless efficacy is really low. Exactly what you want depends on umol/s specification of PAR wavelengths of light... umol/s is 'enough' to remember.
1m^2 is easy. no division needed. Your umol/s produced wiill be the max PPFD you can produce. PPFD is simply umol per second per meter-squared and factored by hours per day of use. Referencing hours of use and PPFD on a DLI chart will tell you the best measurement for this exercise, DLI - Daily Light Integral. Essentially how many photons hit the plant per day per incremental area of 1 m^2. It allows apples to apples comparison of energy given to the plant per day - size of garden and hours of use are baked into it.
So a light with 800-900umol/s (happens to be 800-900PPFD in your case) will easily hit 'max' DLI in 1m^2. That's up near 40 DLI. 35-40 DLI is likely the most you'll get from ambeint co2. YMMV bc co2 levels vary, temps vary, RH varies and they all impact how efficiently the plant performs photosynthesis when chlorophyl absorbs a photon.
1300ppm co2 and tightly controlled environment to match could go as high as 55-60D DLI
These numbers help you get started. You always have to observe and react to plant for final adjustments. but, take notes of distance from canopy, power % and hours per day of use. IT'll be an even smaller ballpark to adjust next time - unless you tightly control temps and rh etc, it'll always be a little different - also some genetic variation is possible. But, this will get you close each time. Not much guesswork.
The best distance is about geometry. What distance gives best coverage even along edges and corners? How much can yo sacrifice in the middle without actually hurting yourself? A phone app can help here. Phone apps, no matter what they say, measure klux. Some 'convert' it to PAR or PPFD, but these are not accurate conversions. They are however, precise, and precise is a useable tool. You can easily know with accuracy and precisiosn the proportional dropoff from center. If the light has any "par" maps at various distances from canopy, you can use this to understand how much actual umol/s you are applying in any one spot. 800-900 is all you need, but in reality you'll probably have a bit more than that in center and a good chunk less than that on edges and corners. i would wager nothing less than 50% in corners, raise light a bit if you need to improve corners and edges a bit. lower if the center area is sacrificing too much.
qb - 20-24" ? more of a bar style may get as close as 12-16". I have a bar/led strip style frame and can burn/bleach buds at about 12-14" after 2 weeks or so... realize some damage takes a long time to present itself. keep notes. Your light looks like something between thin bars and a QB. 18-22" probably do you well. Distnace dramatically spreads light or focuses it (inverse square law, complicated by 1000s of points of light).
fyi, for areas not 1m^2, you just take your umol/s divide by area -- so dividing by a smaller area would mean more PPFD and a larger area would make it smaller -- makes sense? Again, this is somewhat theoretical maximum. you will always be a bit less than the calcualtion, but we rely on the plant for the fine-tuning adjustments, anyway. Light willmiss the plant. Light will be absorbed by the wall. Light will hit spots on plant with much less chlorophyl (stems, flower whatever isn't top layers of leaves) ... So, the DLI calculated here is "at diode" but there are thousands of diodes, lol, so it's even morecomplicated than my simplifications above, but in the end works well.
Again, this is based on biggest needs during 12/12 of a photoperiod plant. on an 18/6 cycle you'd need 66% of this suggested power. It would amount to same DLI. i have a good drive link in profile with useful charts, leaf symptom reference, etc... ignore the DLI tables 2nd worksheet - it's old and suggests too much for ambient co2. must download them, obviously i can't have ppl editing the sheets online. no marcros, 100% safe. if you don't want that, simply google "dli table' or daily light integral table. and you can easily find one there too.