germination

While it can work just as well - at least if there is any difference it's so small it doesn't matter, the direct to soil method has less risks as long as you follow some basic practices. It requires a bit more patience and less OCD type behaviour, though. It may take 1/2 to 1 full day longer to see a sprout vs seeing tap root pop out in paper towel method. Temperature of the substrate is surprisingly important in regard to consistency of germination time frame. Try to keep substrate around 75-76F. Not sure what optimal is but that would be an easy google search to find a more concrete suggestion. I only recenlty began using a heat mat with a soil probe thermostat, but it had a profound effect on consistency. All seeds sprouted within 12 hours of each other and before it was a 1-2 day spread on average. Fill a small pot. tamp it down, lightly. Compress a spot in middle with finger about 1/2" deep to place the seed. Pressing it down vs digging creates a solid basin for the seed so it doesn't fall deeper into substratre. Crown up or down? I always forget so I put it horizontally and eliminate the concern, lol. However, Even if it pops upside down, it will sprout, but it'll take longer to breach the surface. Adjust depth you plant the seed based on how often you see a seed shell still covering the cotyledons when it sprouts. A little deeper will ensure the seed shll is pulled off consistently. If it is taking more than 2-3 days to sprout (with warm substrate, longer if not), bury it a little more shallow. So - Shell intact means deeper, and too slow means try it a bit more shallow. I'm fine with an occasional helmet head and faster sprout, but i don't want to be pulling off a seed from every single sprout.. it should be rare, in my opinion. It's a delicate procedure that isn't too difficult but will inevitably tear off a cotyledon or two, even if low-probability if you give it too many opportunities to occur. Use soem tweezers and a toothpick or similar. Secure 1/2 of open seed shell in a way that puts zero stress on the stem. Hold that steady and try to gently pry it open with the toothpick. Sometimes there is a membrane that needs to be slid off the coytledons. Gently put the tip of toothpick near start base of the cotyledons and gently push out twoard tip and that membran will slide off pretty easily.. if you try to slice it or rip it off, it will more likely damage the delicate cotyledons. Any early damage will severely set back a plant. If you want any consistency in your canopy without extreme measures, this is best avoided. Other than that, just don't let it dry out too early and by end of week you can do a typical wet-dry cycle with a more developed tap root. First irrigation may need to be slgihtyl earlier than you typical water. i.e. in soil 'they' say let the top 1" dry.. that'd by a bad choice for a recently sprouted plant if the root isn't deep enough. It doesn't takelong, but the first 24h if it sprouts and getting dry, water a bit early. AFter that, allow top layers to dry relative to substrate used for a healthy wet-dry cycle to avoid algea and worse pathogens. You don't need a heat mat or some diy version of one (on top of anything that generates mild amount of heat), but it will bring consistency and probably a slight benefit to the seeds that may be aging a bit. Age of the seed is the primary concern as well as how it was stored. Sometimes doing everythign right still results in failed germination. If you follow these practices, you'l be more confident these failures had nothing to do with what you can control. Some seeds are dead and simple as that. Germ rates after a year or two typical fall and that is less prominent if stored properly. FWIW i keep seeds on a drawer, i.e. stored poorly. While i use the seeds i care about in a timely matter, i've popped plenty of seeds that were 2-3 years old or more and rarely had too many issues. I bet the heat mat w/thermostat probe will reduce that further in addition to the consistency it provides. If you do get a heat mat, get one with a soil thermostat probe. it takes the guesswork out of it. Otherwise you rely on less-resolved power settings and no idea on resulting temperature... you find out later if it rotted or not, LOL. in genearl, pop extra seeds beyond what you need... throw out the weak. 20-25% more can help a lot.. 50% more can cover nearly anything. It helps when you if yo make your own seed so you don't throw out 10 USD per seed or more for the price-gouging breeders out there.. "10" is highway robbery already.

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