powdery mildew?

seems like mildew............2 things that wont hurt your buds....... 1. mildew protection spray : Spray&Grow.......full BIO 2. Clean Light Hobby Unit : works with UVC light and MURDERS all mildew. good luck

if just a discoloration, it's not WPM. if it's textured and "on" the leaf" as opposed to the color of it, and it is 'powdery' then it is WPM. so if you can rub some off, probably.. assuming you can eliminate any chance of dripping somethingo n it and it just dried up and left some previoulsy dissolved bits behind. it reflects light a bit differently too.. you can see it more easily at the "right" angle under a grow light. the textured colony reflects the light almost like a street sign. milk does not work. the "cornell" formula does not work. H2O2 does not work. even commercially sold fungicide for real farms have a shitty effectiveness - 25% reduction of the problem? something horribly useless like that. there is no effective antifungal out there and anyone that says differently got lucky and their results are not repeatable. cut off any infected leaf or bud site. Spray a bunch of shit on your plants will also help it spread around more. . you'll end up with it on the stems and underneath buds on stems unseen.. it's nasty stuff. remove, gently. by the time you can see it, it's already reproducing and in the air. some things can slow down the spread, but nothing kills it off. like i said above, becareful spraying infected bits because teh runoff will infect other bits of the plant, lol. Even if you spray it and it "looks" clean, the mycelium network is still inside the plant - the part you cannot see. It will grow back, it wil make the product taste like shit and have a horrible taste -- even worse if applying a foliar spray of any sort in flower phase. UVB i beleive is showing some effectiveness in early studies. "google UV powdery mildew vineyard" and should find an article or soemthing that references the article about it. It gives details liek when it's best to apply it. this is mostly environment-caused. I was hitting dew point at night in winter and the constant condensation led to several failed grows and a mild amount of lung irritaion from smoking half-tainted weed, lol. avoid high RH and extremely low/high VPDs. stay away from dewpoint -- if temps fall drastically from lights-on to dark cycle, humidity can jump surprisingly fast. reference a dewpoint table.. E.G if runnign at 80+ F and 55% RH, your dewpoint is up near 68-70F. doesn't take much to drop to 68-70F at night. Temps drop fast.. as with an infrared heater, the moment the lights are off the temps drop faster than any perception formed from a typical furnace or space heater. A dehumidifier likely cannot keep up with it over such a short time. i had problems for 1.5-2 years... i tried milk - rot smell is all i got. i tried every anecdotal remedy out there and they are all useless nonsensical shit that will waste your time. get your environment in order... make sure air jostles the plants (wind burn is not necessary). I like my plants "twitching" every few seconds from air movement. let's me know air is flowing under and over those leaves. get a temp/rh probe... it can illuminate things that single measurements cannot... you can check at ligths out, but what happens 15mins later? 30mins? 60? you don't want to be interrupting dark cycle during flower taking not of RH/temp, either. A probe that connects wirelessly to your phone is 10-15 USD and worth it.. hang it in the middle of your canopy -- the other tidbit.. the 'environment' around the leaf is slightly cooler and slightly more humid than the rest of the room. a minus 5F offset from room temp to leaf temp is likely. cooler air means higher relative moisture (RH) than the rest of the room too. in other words, make sure you have a health 10F distance from dewpoint at all times.

I would be more worried about how extremely dark green the leaves are, you are feeding waaaay, waaay too much. Looks more like the early stages of burning/dying from nitrogen toxicity to me. White powdery mildew can be rubbed off and is more "blotchy" in appearance. WPM treatment involves a mix of anywhere between 10% to 40% milk to water. Full cream cows' milk is required, it is the enzymes in the milk fat that kills the mildew. You also need to spray the mixture when the lights are on, the light will activate those enzymes.

That doesn't look like PM to me. Looks more like rust spots and early necrosis. Possibly a micro nutrient deficiency like boron or iron or more likely a pH issue.

a little bit of soapy water in a spray bottlewill sort out mildew :) it will kill the spores stoping it reproduce :) adding abit of baking sode will speed up the process best of luck :)