hate to tell you, the stress of whatever LST you did is not going to amount to anything. Wrong time to do it and you didn't actually break apical dominance, so all you did was weaken the stem a bit. We all learn at some point, so don't feel bad.
when you do lst properly, growth 'seems' to slow, but really it's just more distributed across more growth tips sharing apical dominance, or at least should be sharing apical dominance. there may be some growth benefits (i can't say for 100% certainty), but mostly it's the same as before. The roots are taking in same building blocks and light is providing same energy.. can't make something from nothing. LST isn't really about improving yields so much as a better distribution of nugs and smaller proportions of larfy buds.
You'd want to bend it over and keep a length of stem level so that growth spreads evenly among the branches, then allow the tip go vertically to join the rest -- it'll try to catch up but timing this with an autoflwoer amounts to a guess. Keeping the bulk level with each other as they grow vertically is the key. Tallest branch grows the fastest. temporarily bending one down can allow others to catch up.
Also, autoflowers are typically small plants on a biological timer of uncontrolled variable length, so significant lst or pruning won't have much benefit. probably better off just keeping branches spread out as it grows.
It looks like you should have some 'vegetative' growth remaining (elongation of stems and leaf growth), but not more than 1-2 weeks worth.
figure 4 weeks of vege growth remains after you saw first preflowers. might help you guesstimate, but it really doesn't matter... you have no control over it at this point except to keep it healthy.
Once "vege" growth stops, there's really not much you can do to change the outcome. The foundations of buds are formed and it's just fattening up at that point.
Take notes of timing of what you did and adjust next time. obvioulsy, need to start sooner, if you want to LST an autoflower. I wouldn't train for more than 6-7 primary branches (including allowing growth tip to go vertically at the right time to remain even with rest, so probably an odd number) This involves a lot of guesswork because you have no idea when it is going into flower with autos. Easy to have a cola or two not leveled out due to that fact.
Or, just grow photoperiods. Anything an auto can do, a photoperiod can do. you can grow a photoperiod just as small as an autoflower, lol. you can put it into flower at the same exact time (if possible to know such a thing with an auto). It takes just as long to grow flowers despite the urban myth that autoflowers are somehow faster... An error caused by not comparing apples to apples. Sure an autoflower is 'faster' if you don't count the first 2 weeks of flower until you can see something with the naked eye, bwahaha.
There are few real reasons to grow an autoflower - like avoiding a wet season with an outdoor grow. personal preference is fine, but no reason to make shit up about them, which seems to be super popular to do in this hobby.
i see bad watering habits. You are partially watering. You shoudl fully saturate each irrigation. superficial moisture and dry pockets are not something to maximize. Wait for appropriate dryback/loss of weight and repeat. A good wet-dry cycle keeps the rootzone healthy. fully saturating a medium should never cause a problem, and if it does it is due to a poorly constituted medium or not waiting long enough between irrigations. if this is a soilless medium, then you also want 10% runoff waste water, religiously and fertigate every time. This avoids buildup.
I can tell by the drying pattern you are not doing this. Continuing those bad habits will eventually cause problems that are 100% avoidable.