General Question

Most of how Frosty or sticky it gets will be determined by the genetics of the plant, its why clone only cuts are great as they perform well cut after cut. If your doing it by seed does not matter if its getting the same treatment as another frosty lady it won't perform the same and nothing you do to it is going to fix it. When plants are stressed or have pests they get extra frosty for this is not ideal as when they are stressed they also hermi. Just keep em happy and get good seeds or cuts and go from there.

Flowering time is significantly influenced by temperature, acting as a crucial environmental cue. While genetics plays a role in determining a plant's inherent flowering time, temperature fluctuations can modulate this timing, often accelerating or delaying flowering based on specific temperature signals. These temperature-dependent changes in flowering are mediated by complex molecular pathways. For example, the protein FT (FLOWERING LOCUS T) is a key regulator of flowering, and its expression is influenced by temperature. Temperature changes can affect the production and stability of FT, ultimately impacting when a plant flowers. Seasonal temperature changes, like winter cold, can trigger the vernalization response, allowing plants to flower rapidly in the spring. While genetics provides the underlying framework for flowering time, temperature acts as a powerful modulator, influencing when and how quickly plants flower.

Am Ende der Blüte plöppen die Buds nochmal richtig auf^^ 1000W ist schon ne Hausnummer :) aber desto mehr Licht desto besser (mehr Ertrag weniger fluffige Buds also kompakter) Kappe die letzten 2 Wochen alle Blätter ohne "Zucker" dann blühen die Buds nochmal schön aus 💚 Happy Growing✅💚✅💚✅

Temps don't really affect flowering duration, this is controlled by genetics..........however, very low temps can slow development in general. I see you are only use "Elan" and "Spark"...........both these products are bio-stimulants and not complete fertilizers for blooming like "Prosper". Without the necessary macro nutrients, your plant may struggle to develop properly...........seaweed and amino acids on their own are not enough for big fat frosty buds ...... your plants need a balanced diet with nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium included.

At week 10 of flower, you’re right in the window when buds should be swelling up and getting really sticky and frosty especially under a 1000W light. But if your temps are still hitting 31°C, that could be slowing things down. if you’re not seeing much bulk or frost yet, she might just need more time or she’s stressed from the heat. Keep an eye on trichome and try to cool things down if you can. Don’t rush it those last couple weeks can make a big difference in both yield and quality.

Happens when it happens. A fairly average/normal ~60 day flower will be noticeably plump or plumping noticeably by day 40 and even before. Once fully 'fattened', you still have 7-10 days beyond that. it's just a matter of observing trichomes and reacting. There is variety in how this plays out, but takes some experience to be comfortable with all that variation. Not going to write a book here but will mention things like - not all trichomes amber up... sometimes you have to use other observations to choose harvest date. So, even if you have a more normal ripening proces, pay attention to pistil coloration and density of buds... how much calyxes fatten around pistils etc... get familiar with what you can observe... Some plants will tolerate more heat than others. For photosyntheseis 25-30c is a good range to stick to, if possible. Above 30c and you'll run into plants that get damaged by it... again, 30c is not a hard line in the sand... it might be 32 or 33c where damage starts and one pheno may be more robust than the next. Higher RH can help mitigate high temperatures. don't know what kind of heat you are referenceing. whether it delays or or causes early onset flower? wouldn't know offhand. if extreme, it's definitely stress you want to avoid for other good reasons, so it's irrelevant. 1000w led is not really 1000w. watts aren't what matter but obviously are part of the temperature that results in your garden area. More efficient light production produce less heat, so high efficacy lights are the way to go if heat is a problem. If using HPS/CMH these are very poor efficacy options and generate a lot of additional heat to provide same DLI.