Hello farmers around the world, I have a problem a...

I had a plant that looked very ugly and now she is amazing. growdiaries.com/diaries/293788-grow-journal-by-heisenherb Lots of people giving advices out of their S here in this site. Most of this guys no nothing, even talk bad about autos just because they are stupid. Light feed during the first month and then after the 6th week they start getting into a better shape, check my grow and you gonna know what Im talking about. lots of people told me, you overfed you overwatered, they dont know. my advice is not perfect but from what I experienced just give some plain ph correct water and let them grow. in a few weeks they gonna take a good shape. as soon as they start having the flowers in a good triangle shape give them nice bloom feed. at the age of yours is always normal to be very ugly. take care buddy.

Plants are drooping and leaves curling inwards, which means they are way underwatered. Judging by the colour they are probably overfed and from experience may be in nute lockout make sure you get runoff and check the ppm, maybe flush

1. 48% RH at 25 °C gives a VPD of ~1.65 kPa, which is a bit too high for this stage of flowering. Try to increase humidity slightly, or lower the temperature if that’s not possible. At this point, I’d aim for 1.2–1.5 kPa. 2. I think the main issue is your watering schedule and volume. You can see it clearly in both the soil and the plants. Follow these golden rules: - Lift the pots daily if possible. - If even one pot feels light, it’s time to water that pot. Apply about 1/3 to 1/5 of the pot volume in water. - Don’t water too fast. If water starts pooling on the surface, you’re going too quickly pause! let it soak in, then continue. - You can also bottom-water using a tray and let the soil wick moisture up, but you should still be able to get the full 1/3–1/5 volume into the pot in the end. - Do not water all plants just because one needs it. Each plant is a different organism with different needs. The most common watering mistake is too little, too often. In containers, it’s far better to water thoroughly and then wait, rather than applying small amounts frequently.

i would say too much fertilizers,try water it good ,to get run off, and test it,then let the soil to dry off.

Gotta find a balance. Give them 4 cups of water every other day until they start drinking that and then move to 8 cups every 3rd day until you start getting a rhythm down and a feel for when they need water

i know it says 88F but they look cold man. like, cold roots man. feel the lower leaves, feel the lower portion of the containers..are they cold to the touch? what are your nighttime temps? you don't want more than a 15-20 degree difference in day/night temps (aka the DIFF) , ie: 88F days, so like max lowest night temp would be around 68 F. For me, i like my days around 75F and my nights in the mid-60's F. Some of my peers like it a little colder or a bit warmer., which is a whole 'nother debate/discussion. the goal is have a low DIFF number. and like the other guy said, your humidity should be around 50%, with plenty of good airflow.. if your RH is too high, then upgrade your exhaust fan to a higher CFM.. if RH is too low, then put a bucket of water in your tent. a tent is such a small environment, it shouldn't take much to effort to raise/lower temps and RH. when fully zipped up, the walls of the tent should be sucked in a little bit. yur interior circulation fan should be on all the time, and the exhaust fan should be a stronger (higher CFM rate) than what's called for, for your tent size. ie: a 1m2 tent, use an exhaust fan that's like 400cfm or something like that. And don't just vent out to the room the tent is in, punch a hole into yur attic and attach your ducting to exhaust to the attic, or vent out a window. draw in fresh outside air at a low point, exhaust air out of a higher point in yur room. ie: floor and ceiling points. and when it comes to watering man, Always water to point of run-off man. then lift up a fully saturated container. feel the weight. then lift it up a few days later. feel the weight. when it's not heavy, then u water. u can also use your finger. stick yur finger all the way into yur medium,. if the dirt is damp enough to adhere to your finger, don't water. if it's dry, then water. now if your medium is super dry it will be hydrophobic at first. place the pot into a 10/20 tray, then water it, it will run right out, but leave it sit for a while and the medium will wick up the water in the tray and eventually the entire medium will be evenly wet. then place the fully saturated pot back into the tent. hope that helps man!

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Hi 🙋‍♂️, Für mich hast du hier augenscheinlich mehrere Probleme… Die hängen Blätter haben zwei Ursachen… zu wenig Wasser & einen zu hohen Anteil an Stickstoff was sich durch die extrem dunklen Blätter und die krümmung nach außen/unten zeigt (adlerkrallen). Ich würde versuchen die Ladys mal vernünftig zu gießen & das mit PH angepassten Wasser ohne Dünger zu verwenden. Um weitere Ursachen ausschließen zu können bräuchte man mal deinen EC & PH Wert im Drain. Hoffe das hilft vorerst. Viel Erfolg im weiteren Verlauf 🤞🏽👊👍

well, i can't say if it was 'overwatered' before.. that's often used as a boogemany excuse... However, what you did in reaction didn't help. Lightly watering is never the right thing to do. Keep it simple: 1) fully saturate. If this is soilless, you also want 10% runoff or more, religiously. Runoff eliminates buildup potential over time. Makes diagnosing easier if you know it's a matter of a formula adjustment and nothing else required. 2) wait for approriate dryback and repeat. Same loss of weight = same volume of water needed. Use degree of dryness or familiarity with weight to trigger irrigation. Don't overthink it. Partial watering trains superficial, less optimal roots as well as potential over time for weird zones of nutrient buildup beneath the surface if water repeatedly evaporates off depositing solids that will throw off your fertilization over time. If fully saturating causes any droop, it is the fault of a poorly constituted medium. Add more perlite (or numerous equivalents) if you get droop from normal watering behaviour. Even if it does droop for a short period of time, that's not the end of the world as long as it perks up. 1:1 for a heavy medium (50% perlite) and 2:1 for coco (33% perlite) As long as symptoms are progressing slowly, i'd suggest getting your watering procedure kosher before making any diagnosis. Correct irrigation habits might fix some problems. Go easy on the fertilizer, too. As far as how long to wait between irrigations, this is a grey area. A good wet-dry cycle is the safest, though. It'll also help grow thicker roots early on. If you want to increase irrigation/fertigation do so later on to take advantage of those extra roots. Even then, there is a limit. I wouldn't irrigate with less than a 1/3rd loss of weight from saturation. Even that will be fairly moist up top. Generally you want the top 1/2 to 1" to dry up top (learn weight of saturation and whatever your trigger is). If coco coir, you do it a bit sooner because it holds less water per volume .. when that top layer starts to change color, it's a safe point to irrigate coco coir again. if the plant droops because there is limited moisture in medium, you want to water before that point in future. That's going too far, obviously.

No such thing as too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. Plants seem unable to perform transpiration for one reason or another. This isn't necessarily overwatering per se. Transpiration pull is through roots, roots can only uptake where they can reach. If RH%remains high moisture cannot wick from one atmosphere to another. High RH% acts as a barrier to evaporation and effective moisture transfer because the air is already "full". Incorporating a wet-dry cycle—alternating between thoroughly watering the growing medium and letting it dry out significantly before the next watering—is considered one of the most critical practices for successful indoor gardening. High rh daytime for optimal vpd. No transpiration occurs at night, vpd useless. Nighttime you make sure the tent has a negative pressure exhaust linked to RH% and keep that tent 45-55 % and no higher. Water in mornings, perfect soil composition for cellular respiration by night. Perfect the cycle. ET is the combined total of evaporation and transpiration, and its effectiveness in controlling microbes lies in its ability to dry surfaces faster than they can stay wet, thus halting bacterial proliferation and disease vectors. Having a wet,wet,wet,wet,wet cycle with no dry is your killer. Actually accordingly.