Hello farmers around the world, I have a problem a...

well, i can't say if it was 'overwatered' before.. that's often used as a boogemany excuse... However, what you did in reaction didn't help. Lightly watering is never the right thing to do. Keep it simple: 1) fully saturate. If this is soilless, you also want 10% runoff or more, religiously. Runoff eliminates buildup potential over time. Makes diagnosing easier if you know it's a matter of a formula adjustment and nothing else required. 2) wait for approriate dryback and repeat. Same loss of weight = same volume of water needed. Use degree of dryness or familiarity with weight to trigger irrigation. Don't overthink it. Partial watering trains superficial, less optimal roots as well as potential over time for weird zones of nutrient buildup beneath the surface if water repeatedly evaporates off depositing solids that will throw off your fertilization over time. If fully saturating causes any droop, it is the fault of a poorly constituted medium. Add more perlite (or numerous equivalents) if you get droop from normal watering behaviour. Even if it does droop for a short period of time, that's not the end of the world as long as it perks up. 1:1 for a heavy medium (50% perlite) and 2:1 for coco (33% perlite) As long as symptoms are progressing slowly, i'd suggest getting your watering procedure kosher before making any diagnosis. Correct irrigation habits might fix some problems. Go easy on the fertilizer, too. As far as how long to wait between irrigations, this is a grey area. A good wet-dry cycle is the safest, though. It'll also help grow thicker roots early on. If you want to increase irrigation/fertigation do so later on to take advantage of those extra roots. Even then, there is a limit. I wouldn't irrigate with less than a 1/3rd loss of weight from saturation. Even that will be fairly moist up top. Generally you want the top 1/2 to 1" to dry up top (learn weight of saturation and whatever your trigger is). If coco coir, you do it a bit sooner because it holds less water per volume .. when that top layer starts to change color, it's a safe point to irrigate coco coir again. if the plant droops because there is limited moisture in medium, you want to water before that point in future. That's going too far, obviously.

No such thing as too much water, only a medium that retains too much for too long. Plants seem unable to perform transpiration for one reason or another. This isn't necessarily overwatering per se. Transpiration pull is through roots, roots can only uptake where they can reach. If RH%remains high moisture cannot wick from one atmosphere to another. High RH% acts as a barrier to evaporation and effective moisture transfer because the air is already "full". Incorporating a wet-dry cycle—alternating between thoroughly watering the growing medium and letting it dry out significantly before the next watering—is considered one of the most critical practices for successful indoor gardening. High rh daytime for optimal vpd. No transpiration occurs at night, vpd useless. Nighttime you make sure the tent has a negative pressure exhaust linked to RH% and keep that tent 45-55 % and no higher. Water in mornings, perfect soil composition for cellular respiration by night. Perfect the cycle. ET is the combined total of evaporation and transpiration, and its effectiveness in controlling microbes lies in its ability to dry surfaces faster than they can stay wet, thus halting bacterial proliferation and disease vectors. Having a wet,wet,wet,wet,wet cycle with no dry is your killer. Actually accordingly.