Wilted and yelow leaves

Gruwee
Gruweestarted grow question 4mo ago
Hello. I'm in the fifth week of flowering. I notice that the leaves are very drooping. It seems to me that the flowers are overwatered, despite the fact that I water 1.2L every other day, my pot is 7L. I also notice yellow leaves below the 1,000w zeus. Day 27c, 60rh, 1.300ppm, an
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Leaves. Curl down
Leaves. Color - Yellow
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wolfvb
wolfvbanswered grow question 4mo ago
Salam Gruwee! 👋 Welcome to the diagnostic clinic, Habibi! 🏥 Looking at your photos of that massive canopy under the Zeus 1000W PRO and reading your numbers, you actually have the exact opposite problem of what you suspect! Let's look at this through the lens of Modern Engineering so you can see exactly why your girls are drooping. 🛠️ 1. The "Ferrari Engine in a Go-Kart" Trap (Underwatering): 🏜️ You suspect they are overwatered, but they are actually severely underwatered. You have a massive, commercial-grade 1000W LED driving extreme photosynthesis at 27°C and 60% RH. That is a huge engine! However, your plants are in tiny 7L (1.8 gallon) pots, and you are only giving them 1.2L every 48 hours. The Mechanics: A flowering plant of that size under 1000W of light will easily drink 1.5L to 2L every single day. When you wait 48 hours, the plant completely runs out of water, losing its internal hydraulic pressure (turgor pressure) . Without that water pressure, the leaves physically cannot hold themselves up, which is why the entire canopy looks so heavy, tired, and wilted. 2. The Salt Concentration Spike (Yellowing Leaves): 📉 You are feeding at a very heavy 1,300 PPM. When you let a tiny 7L pot dry out for two days, the water evaporates but those heavy mineral salts are left behind in the soil. The Mechanics: As the soil dries, that 1,300 PPM effectively doubles or triples in concentration in the remaining moisture. This creates a toxic, high-osmotic environment that chemically burns the root hairs and locks out nutrients. The plant panics and starts cannibalizing its lower leaves to survive, causing the yellowing you are seeing below the canopy. Your Engineering Rescue Protocol: 🚑 Increase Frequency: You must stop waiting 48 hours to water! Plants this large in pots this small need to be watered at least once a day (and sometimes twice a day in late flower). 🚰 The Flush & Reset: For your next watering, mix your feed at a much lower strength (around 800-900 PPM) and slowly water them until you get a heavy 20% runoff out of the bottom of the pots. You must wash out the concentrated 1300 PPM salts that have built up during those extreme dry-back periods. 🌊 Get some water flowing through those pots daily, and watch them stand back up reaching for that Zeus light! 🚀 Happy Growing! 💚
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Heisenherb
Heisenherbanswered grow question 4mo ago
Holy chit, What a nice grow brother. In my experience they always look ugly early to mid flower. Your plants are looking good. good luck =))
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Green_Claws
Green_Clawsanswered grow question 4mo ago
I would say your pots are on the small side, looks like they've had plenty of nitrogen so get that pk down them and if you go bigger pots next time I would add co2 also under all that power.. Nice uniform grow ✌️ 💚
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JUNGLE_B4RNS
JUNGLE_B4RNSanswered grow question 4mo ago
Wrong size of plants in wrong size of pots, plants are root-bound for sure…. This is why you’re getting KFC drumsticks buds size instead of 1.5L Colas bottles size buds…. No roots no fruits…. 😔 CORRECTLY WATER YOUR CANNABIS PLANTS - EVERYTHING YOU NEED TO KNOW : - https://youtu.be/XmMKDyCHA90?si=p9uYgbtSZOCpwiIt The Secret Truth to perfectly watering your cannabis plants : - https://youtu.be/BRO_dmFg8_w?si=5yI3DN3X4TrFKN0m
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Ultraviolet
Ultravioletanswered grow question 4mo ago
The natural phenomenon of barometric pumping, sometimes called "soil breathing" or wind-pumping, is a crucial mechanism for soil aeration where oxygen is driven into the soil while gases like carbon dioxide are expelled, primarily driven by fluctuations in atmospheric pressure. This process, along with diffusion, replenishes oxygen levels in the soil, which is essential for the respiration of plant roots and soil. Your grow looks so big, there is no tent, therefore you cannot replicate barometric pumping unless you have a negative pressure to simulate high & low. The physical properties of water make it a "lockout" mechanism when the medium is oversaturated, because oxygen diffuses 10,000 times slower in water than in air and 320,000 times slower in soil saturated past a point. Gotta make sure by time 🌙 night comes the medium is in a sweet spot for oxygenation and the ambient night air has adequate "space" (lowerr RH%) for more moisture to be added all night long, needs to remain controlled. Failure to do so will gradually overtime if water is not moving fast enough or is getting trapped anywhere in those pots its just a matter of time. Keeping close tabs on ambient humidity day and night during the flowering period is crucial for indoor plants. A thick, shaded canopy restricts airflow and reduces evaporation of the medium. In this phase, high relative humidity (RH) not creating an adequate wet-dry cycle can slowly start to break down the entire energetic process, which is often the problem around mid-flower. The transition of microorganisms from aerobic (oxygen-rich) to anaerobic (oxygen-deprived) conditions results in a significantly slower breakdown. Plants run on 10%-20% energetic potential, acids are released in the form of lactic acid, eventually skewing ph acidic. 40% of all carbon a cannabis plant captures is exuded into the soil to feed Micros, this slowly increases CO2 in mediumand moisture retention with it as time goes on. If you are also delivering nutrients organically, then the microorganisms will also directly compete with the plant for oxygen at a higher rate than compared to synthetic delivery. Very very common to see 4th week of flower onwards a complete breakdown of oxygen. Slowly, over time. Negative pressure is what pumps fresh oxygen in and CO2 and nitrogen out of mediums. If environmental conditions are not "moving" water fast enough from mediums to atmosphere promptly then it becomes a slow slog of breakdown, yellowing, and various symptoms for whatever process breaks down first will present. Generally recommended you know what your doing prior to running such a massive grow. Pretty hard to imagine anyone having spent that much money to setup yet have no clue when or why to water. Seems a little far fetched, plants don't look droopy, they look like how they are supposed to, tips say EC of medium is close to where it should be. Your doing something right, impressive looking plants, just gotta keep everything flowing to keep growing, very best of luck, she looks amazing.
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00110001001001111O
00110001001001111Oanswered grow question 4mo ago
No wilting seen. Some minor tip burn. Possibly some clawing starting. Keep an eye on overall lushness / clawing progression and reduce N if it gets darker / increased clawing. sounds like a soilless method? 1300ppm sounds high, but if it's a EC conversion it's not reliable for ppm. A tds pen bought in europ will show 40% higher than one bought in the US -- whimsically so. EC is relevant, but converting it to ppm is half useless. If it is soilless, calculate ppm from gauranteed analysis labels if you want to track ratio and concentration of what is provided over time. that is accurate enough. (guaranteed analysis is a minimum, but the ingredients for soilless/hydro fertilizers are consistent in this regard. An ingredient with a specific molecular formula isn't a maybe.) bit concerned about your description of watering. You shouldn't choose the volume given. you give what is needed to do the job correctly. 1) water until saturated - if soilles, get 10% runoff, religiously. 2) wait for appropriate dryback and repeat. if you trigger and irrigation at same lost of weight, it'll require a consistent volume of water. the time between will vary. Time is not the trigger. See some sticky traps -- do you have gnats? larva chewing on roots cna make leaves do that too. Get "Bti" in NA summit mosquito bits is a brand. brand doesn't really matter. it's a bactera that will kill the larva. good to use preemptively if your medium often comes with gnats. that shit often comes from the store when you buy it.
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