rusty spots (Calmag?)

Magnesium deficiency because you gave too much calcium. Next time you better add some slow releasing calcium as top dressing combined with Biotabs instead of this liquid version. This did bring unbalance in your soil. You grow you learn mate! Have a nice harvest! 💚

La genética que estas cultivando tiene un tiempo de vida de 11 semanas, estas casi llegando al final. La última semana regaria con muy poco alimento o nada. Para que la planta consuma todos sus recursos y el sabor del la hierva se potencie a la hora de la cosecha. Suerte.

Yes, it's an imbalance between calcium and magnesium or an magnesium deficiency. You need to have a relation from 3:1 or 4:1.

No, probably not, you added organic tablets 4-5 weeks into flower, can only imagine how much nitrogen you are releasing which is not needed at all. You have ceramic pots, with organic nutrient delivery, massive shortage of oxygen making it into your pot. Most likely anoxia/hypoxia, skewing ph from all the excess. Oversaturated medium destroys iron. The list of problems is long. The root of all your problems stems from a lack of oxygenation. Once that goes everything else goes.

Looks like a burn of some kind

@00110001001001111O 🙄 SF 1000 D PPFD map from official manufacturer source, 960 umol/s total output : https://www.spider-farmer.com/products/sf1000d/

I like the light answer.. calcium and/or magnesium sytmptoms shouldn't start at the top. They are 2 unique things. you can have one problem without the other. This looks more like Mg. SF1000 claims ~200 umol/s and can cover 2x2. It also claims 2.5 umol/J for 100watts which would be 250 umol/s output, so something is a lie, here. Let's assume 200 to be safe. 2x2 is being generous even for an autoflower light schedule. i'd stick to 3.5sq ft or less with an 18/6 operating schedule for autoflower. For photoperiods i'd stick to 2.5sq ft or less. From there you can use a light meter of any kind to measure proportional intensity relative to central reading... raise light to reduce hotspot and improve corners/sides without sacrificing overall average. haning distance should be about geometry of light footprint.. .the rest can be controlled by a dimmer for change of operation hours.

WOW LOOK AT DAT!!!! DAT COULD BE A PH ISSUE!!! WHEN DAT HAPPENS DAT CAN LOCKOUT NUTRIENTS LIKE CALCIUM!!!! IN SOIL CALCIUM IS BEST ABSORBED AROUND 6.2-6.9!!! IN HYDRO OR COCO DAT WOULD BE AROUND 5.8-6.4!!!!! IF I HAVE ISSUES I ALWAYS TEST MEDIUM PH AND RUNOFF FIRST DAT WORKS VERY VERY GOOD FOR ME!!!!

Cal/Mag deficiency from too intense light… from your diary your SF1000D is at 22cm , you must be somewhere around 1100 PPFD if the intensity is at 100%… when normally you should be at 12” around 30cm at minimum where the manufacturer PAR map shows 960 PPFD maximum. During flowering stage 600-900 PPFD is already plenty enough, particularly when using organic nutrients.

Yeah it Looks like calcium spots. **Disclaimer this is only my opinion **