Are my temps too high even if the plants look good...

What @Ultraviolet said right there that's poetry that... Well said.

Las temperaturas recomendadas son entre 20⁰c y 25⁰c. Es igual a 68⁰f como mínimo y 77⁰f como máximo. Pero la maria puede soportar hasta los 82⁰f así que estas dentro de los parámetros correctos. Suerte.

Depends how much you are trying to optimize, as opposed to playing it safe. Higher temperatures come with a lot more plant cooling, which in turn means more water passing through the plant and faster evaporation of the medium overall. This needs to be considered in your wet/dry cycle, along with having a sufficiently sized pot for how often you can visit your plants. People who can regularly water their plants multiple times a day have more freedom. I enjoy large pots, which can go up to 3 days between watering. We try to accommodate what fits our schedule and intent. If you wanted to be picky, ultra optimized, you would need an ambient 92F to reach an internal leaf surface temperature of 86F @400ppm CO2 (high transpiration). 86°F is the optimal internal temp that photosynthesis occurs. Surprisingly difficult to run a tent in the 90s for long, as there is a massive increase in water usage, and comes with increased stress. When thinking about temps, you don't only have to think about photosynthesis. During ripening, the focus shifts from growth to preservation; high temperatures will do little but accelerate degradation of trichomes, quickly burning off the profile. Then it's good to know that bacterial growth multiplies 10x faster above 77F, think of that as high-risk territory, going above requires one to be cautious and just make sure everything is flowing in a timely manner. Terpenes such as myrcene will start to degrade above 67F, so it's important to really push for preservation once the plant ramps up during ripening if you want to keep strong smells, not necessarily as low as 67°F. Temperature is an accelerant to decay along with light. Whatever your tent hits full lights on is your daytime high, 80°F. For a stress-free life, keep the day/night swing to a 10F difference. If you're doing an anthocyanin grow(purple), make it a 20F drop if you can. Your temperatures are good, a nice, comfortable life, stress-free, but remember, with great stress comes great big buds, that's where it's entirely up to you, and knowing there is no right or wrong, only optimal. The Coenzyme Q (also known as ubiquinone) that regulates the metabolic rate at which oxidative phosphorylation occurs via cellular respiration...well, that works best between 80-86F (@night) transpiration will occur even without light. Best make sure she never runs out of water though..whilst also making sure water never gets trapped inside a pot for long at those temps, the rapid rate of disease vectors would be faaaaaast. Don't be afraid to find what works for you, just like in nature, she can handle hotter, cooler days, windier days, none good, none bad. Most problems arise indoors from going too hard too long, or too slow, so that water stagnates. Find balance, my environmental setup for summer is not the same as winter, summer is all cooling, winter is preventing it from going below 75 at night. Just like a fancy car, you can drive her as fast as you want, the faster you go harder she crashes. Experience allows you to drive her further and faster. It's applied knowledge that keeps the wheels on the road. Best of luck and happy growing.

less drastic changes at night are good, but the benefit may not be worth the cost unless it happens naturally. Stomata are mostly closed at night. again, avoid extremes. If yo go too cold, biological processes fail. Stick to 18c and above. avoid extreme vpd's but unlike during light hours, the negative effects are nowhere near the same. if oy have lab precision control, that's great... then it's just about what you are willing to spend and whehter you see the value in it... in the end, the plant is quite robust and you'll get 90-95% of potention just doing the basics. Those last few percent are costly.

Depends on RH, too. 80 with low rh and sky-high VPD is going to cause problems... stunted growth, taco leaves etc... A plant may tolerate it for a short time before the problems become obvious. Very low vpd is going to risk microbes and fungal growth as well as restrict transpiration which will slow down overall plant growth too. Get a vpd table (vape-pressure deficit). "Temp" on a vpd table is leaf surface temp, not atmospheric temp, so subtract 2c / 4F from atmospheric temp reading before referencing a table. If you have an infrared thermometer takes some readings off leaves. This stuff isn't well-defined as far as what is best for this species, so avoiding extremes is how you use that tool. VPD controls rate of transpiration ... intake of CO2 is a limiting factor. Rate of photosynthesis benefits from up to ~25C before diminishing returns and or damage in ambient co2 environment, and with added co2 (1200-1300ppm) you'd want to shoot for closer to 30C. As you get warmer, humidity becomes a concern after the temperatures drop... very important to avoid condensation after lights turn off or heater maintaining a lower temp etc... You still want RH to jive or it's missing half the equation. A vpd table comes with various recommendations for seedligns, vege, flower phases... you may find a range of suggestions, because as i said there is no good authority on what is best for this species given limited testing. So, be sure to avoid the extremes, target something specific if you wish, but don't be a fanatic about it, either. Through observation you may find a certain range is best for your local variables.

80 f (26 c) is just fine for a tent, I've got some great results in summer with temperature up to 85 f degrees, although that's not ideal and strain dependent. Where do you put the thermometer? Is the canopy level temp the same? If the substrate to canopy temperature don't differ dramatically, the degree you mention is okay. And your eyes don't lie, if they look good they're good :) My ideal temp most of the time is between 75-80.

I set my tent to try and keep temps to be about 24c with my Extractor going full power if temps raise above 26c, that way the day temps are around 24-25c. Night temps I aim for about 19c, not sure what them temps are in Fahrenheit.

salut en faite tout dépend de ta génétique il y a des génétique qui apprecie les températures et d'autres pas du tout. comme la plus part de violette. aprèsok tu utilises un chauffage d'appoint mais contrôle tu la températures sous tes lampes aussi? si oui personelement essaie de réduire un peux jusqu'à 25 . ppersonelement je reste entre ses fourchette de températures 23 degrés jour et entre 18 et 20 degré la nuit . pour les violette important de ressentir un changement de température pour changer de couleur j'espère que j'ai pu t'aider bonne journée

25 day temp 20 night temp