Fully saturating a pot is not "overwatering." That's what youare supposed to do. If it's a soilless context, you also want about 10% or more of that as runoff out the bottom. Then, waiting for appropriate dryback before repeating. Hopefully vast majority is drinking not evaporation caused as that would mean the pot size appropriate for the size of the plant.
Regardless of the term.. as long as you are not watering too soon and not mindlessly running excessive gallons through it during an irrigation, you aren't overwatering.
If these basic things ever cause a problem, it's the fault of the medium. Add more perlite or similar next time to avoid those problems. Coco is best with 33% of volume being perlite and something that holds more water per volume, like sphagnum peat moss, is best around 50%. In the end, they both have a similar gas:water mix per volume, which is the key.
This was explained in earlier questions you asked. It'd be wise to adjust your watering practices. Best practices predate this hobby plant. Don't make what should be incredilby easy difficult.
Light may or may not be too much. Information given is not sufficient to make a good guess. If the nodes at the top are too tight and stacking on top of each other, then add too much light to the list of probable causes. Efficacy varies by light, so 400w doesn't say much. On top of that most grow light manufacturer's lie about various aspects on their specification sheets. Regardless, what mattersis how the plant in front of you is growing. It may take more time and trial/error to figure it out, but once you get proper node spacing, it's good. At that point a simple lux meter can help you adjust the light in future to similar levels. if you use take note of hanging distance and power per stage of life, that works too.