light upgrade ?

.64m^2 .. from there you can calculate the umol/s PAR production to meet DLI needs. This requires accurate specifications or the math is garbage. If you grow autoflowers exclusively, you also don't need as much power, compared to photoperiod needs. (*** same power per day, just less per hour). So, i'll simply give good targets for umol/s PAR production under 12 hour and 18 hour operation. These numbers depend on a lot of local variables. They are not written in stone but will be damn close. This is targeting roughly 39 DLI... Exact target dpends on ambient co2, temperature, and RH% conditions. This is slightly variable between gardens that have basic climate controls. 18 hour target - ~600 PPFD 600 x .64 = 384 umol/s PAR ... so 375-400 umol/s PAR should be fine for autoflowers 12 hour target - ~900 PPFD 900 x .64 = 576 umol/s PAR ... So 550-600 PPFD should b fine for photoperiods when they get to 12/12 schedule ... run at 67% in vege over 18h. Should notice how things are proportional or inversely proportional to time in a 1:1 way as long as only 1 variable changes. REad up on daily light integral - the gist of it is important and makes such decisions simple and predictable. ts1000 - 343 umol/s PAR production -- this is sufficient for autoflowers or 18 hour vege phase only in a .64m^2 area. You'd only be getting 20-25 dli over 12 hours... that's weak. lumatek pro 200 - 508 umol/s PAR output. This is better for 12h, but still leaving a bit on the table as far as maximizing typical ambient CO2 conditions indoors. You may want a 240w light for this tent. May need to run it at 90-95% over 12 hours. This assumes similar 2.3-2.5 umol/J efficacy as the lights above. Efficacy impacts watts needed. Higher efficacy = better light and fewer watts needed for same performance. You'd probably be fine with the lumatek 200, but probably not maximizing yield. There's nothing wrong with that... Your personal context would be the deciding factor on that. Focusing the light on a slightly smaller canopy than wall-to-wall or just living with slightly less DLI across full .64m^2 etc... 33-34 DLI will still form nice buds. Dipping into 20s, especially low 20s, DLI should be avoided. Beyond that just make sure the shape of the light fits the tent. -- good distribution of diodes, heat sink quality.. .this stuff should be common sense. With this info you can compare any light for any sized tent and make an informed choice.

The Medic Grow Mini Sun 2 is a nice light like was said earlier but also an SE3000 is a great option.

Hey man! For an 80x80 tent, I'd definitely recommend checking out the Medic Grow Mini Sun 2. It's a massive upgrade over a TS1000 and fits that space perfectly with great coverage and efficiency.