Buds should be dried in the dark, 50% humidity, at 20 degrees

The girls are coming along 😜

We are at 21 days from these girls breaking the surface and they are making progress. This little slurricane 7 had a rough start but looks like shes pulling through. I noticed at the beginning of the week that they were a little overdosed on nitrogen so I added 2 gallons of tap water to the reservoir and adjusted the ph to 6. They are still looking a little heavy on N but their growth rate is going great so I think it should balance out by the end of next week. I dont plan on doing a water change until I flower them. I left the plants alone most of the week. Tied most of them down to spread them out and defoliated a few lower leaves on day 20. The branches on most of these plants are thick and solid already. They don't budge easily. Bananasicle is looking pretty funky with uneven branch and node growth but we are just going to push forward. Still pumping nutrients and beaming light 24 hours a day. I'm thinking day 28 we will switch them to flower and see if any of these ladies can bring some❄️🔥💨

Finally the Cal Mag Xtra arrived. Couple days after the feeding, the signs of it started fading. Later in the week I placed the net on them. I minimally trimmed the bottom half of the plants. One plant had started flowering already, others where smaller and behind. I also do not have any clue if what I was doing wasn't setting them back. So I held back a bit. Let's see what happens.

2/28-3/1: One of them has fully senesced to a deep purple, and the other has begun to do so...still fattening👍 Both plants have flowers forming on the petioles of fan leaves...like hippy chicks with hairy armpits.. 3/3: Fed today..probably the purple one's last dose of N.

Hello everyone. Things are looking pretty uniform with the Amnesia Haze, as all five are identical at this stage. They are currently hiding out under the canopy of a flowering plant, avoiding the spotlight like they're auditioning for an invisibility cloak. This lack of light is causing them to stretch quite a bit. Humidity is holding steady between fifty-five and sixty-eight percent, and temperatures are perfectly in check between twenty-two and twenty-five degrees. There isn't much more to report for now, so we'll see how they look next week. Best regards, Growfather

Starting to turn milky. I'm thinking end of week and she be done.

hi i think i will wait a few more days to harvest the frichomes are not yet ripe and that's good i still have too many green leaves on the plants. a light watering to hold 3 to 4 days and harvest. ciao ciao😃😃👌

​Période du 08/04 au 14/04 ​État de la plante (J+6) : ​📣 Remerciements ​Un immense merci à toutes les personnes qui suivent ce journal ! Un merci tout particulier à @MIA_BIOTABS pour sa grande gentillesse, ses précieux conseils et son cadeau qui booste cette session. Merci à tous pour votre soutien ! La plante a bien verdi et développe ses premières feuilles dentelées. Elle est vigoureuse mais la tige est assez élancée. ​Hauteur : 7 cm ​Gain de croissance : + 6,5 cm depuis la naissance. ​Soins du 14/04 : ​Nutrition : Mise en place des Biotabs (3 tablettes enfoncées à 10 cm, disposées en triangle à mi-chemin entre le tronc et le bord du pot). ​Arrosage : 1 Litre d'eau avec 1g de Bactrex. pH ajusté à 6,3. ​Configuration technique : ​Lampe : Lumatek ATS 300W Pro (75%) à 100 cm. ​Climat : 25°C jour / 21°C nuit | HR 50%. observation le mélange startrex et silicium flash fait leur effet. la plante est vigoureuse et sont tronc est déjà gros je trouve .. merci a tous a bientôt

Ciceklenmenin 4. Haftasina girerken fosfor ve potaayum agirlikli gidilip azot gubresi artik azaltilicak. Herhangi bir sorun yok isigin tek bitkiye yetersiz kalmasi ve koku problemi disinda :)

She is growing nice, the buds are getting fat, apparently i was expecting gorilla cookies to be the winner at the size of the buds until now, apparently i was wrong, amnezia has bigger buds than gorilla at this stage :) we will see who is going to be the winner... who you think is going to win?

The girls started to pre-flower on the 6th of June. They all have a slight smell when you rub the leaves. Kosher cake, Strawberry banana and the Forbidden runtz have a sweet smell to them. The Forbidden runtz reminds me of the smell of skywalker OG which is totally LUSH..!! The blackberry has more of an deep earthy smell with a slight bit of fruitiness. Super excited for the next few weeks with these ladies. Happy toking my peeps 😁

This week did not go too well. The plants started being more and more droopy and barely grew, which you can clearly see in the time-lapse. I initially thought they were sitting in coco that was too wet, but drying it out did not help their case. I had already wanted to transplant them at this stage, but didn't have the right pot size available yet due to a late delivery. Then, at day 13 from planting the seeds, I received the pots and immediately went on to transplant them into wet buffered coco in 1 liter pots. They instantly recovered and have been doing great ever since as you can see in the last picture. Starting from the transplant, I have been feeding them with 0.5-0.7 EC water, a bit more than half of that made up of calmag, the rest coco A+B and rhizotonic. One is showing a slight calcium deficiency, weirdly enough. Especially as the coco was buffered in a 1.2 EC calmag solution for several days before use. Will keep an eye on this and might give some extra calcium as a mono nutrient. For now, next week looks promising. This update is a little late, so I can tell you that by next week's update they will look much better.

Starting to see where the buds will grow

Put the largest nothern lights in its own mini green house, both have x2 large bug nets around them instead of a plastic cover as the temps and humidity were off but are perfect now. Plus it will reduce the chances of bugs flying in while also allowing the wind to pass through, I’ve used some Biobizz leaf spray no further leafs have been eaten since using it which I’m happy about.

Wow she is getting bigger and bigger she is in the start of 11th week still have some time due to a mess up earlier on the grown I snapped the main branch lower part will post pick how the recovery took but slowed her down by two weeks or so. I really like how she is turning out 1st time using theseedconnectusa from AZ money will spent with the nice recovery and she still got bigger.

Planted directly in soil came out of the dirt in 2 days, The picture is week 1 out the dirt

Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.

Pretty steady week. Just waiting for everything to fatten up.

day 38 stopped giving PK, carbs. only humic, folvic fishsh!t in watering. lifted terps video sticky icky video day 39 just humic and folvic into water. day42 bridal party gained a lot of weight, started to lean over blackberry. I feel like I could chop today.. slight chance might meet remo :)