Only 2 Pistles are showing very early flower. Plant doesn't seem to be getting any taller this is a genetic issue I think. Going to a different breeder next run. I think they are white label genetics.

Week 3 💨🔥 4 out of 5 topped 👌 Waiting on 1 to kick on abit before topping or anything, I may just let her do its own thing and train the other 4 but well see Now we wait for some more growth on the nodes and then begin some LST 👽🏆

It has been another amazing week of the plants growing. I have been watching as the Fruity Freak leaves become progressively more fern-like, and ornamental as a result! Based on my Banizzle grows, I knew I needed to understand plant nutrients in a more meaningful way if I wanted these plants to thrive. So, I decided to get a soil test (see Ref. 1 below on how to perform a test) to understand what nutrients my plants needed. The report I received advised that I needed to add 200 lbs/acre of nitrogen, 150 lbs/acre of phosphorus, and 190 lbs/acre of potassium (see picture labeled Pic.1 (FYI you can't see these images unless you login to growdiaries)). I then researched what to do with my results (Ref. 2 helped), and I figured out that my nutrient needs of 200-150-190 fall close to a 2-1-2 ratio. I then looked at different types of organic fertilizers (see Ref. 3 and Ref. 4) and considered that I already had a 3-10-5 fertilizer (Vermibloom) on hand. I discovered Dr Earth’s Alfalfa Meal is 2-1-2 and includes beneficial bacteria and mycorrhizae (to promote healthy plant growth and disease resistance). However, I knew I would be low on nitrogen if I only used those two fertilizers. Therefore, I decided to buy some blood meal (12-0-0). I also liked that blood meal is more fast acting while the other two are more moderate. I hunted around for a solid fertilizer calculator and found an amazing tool from the University of Georgia Extension (Ref. 5). I entered all three fertilizers into the calculator, and it kicked out the exact amount of each fertilizer I needed to apply to 1 square foot (see Pic. 2). As I am using 10-gallon fabric pots (that can hold 1.5 cubic feet, but I put stone on the bottom and there’s space left at the top) I decided to use the one square foot application rate as I can always add more later, but I can’t take it away. Not only did I want to understand the nutrients I needed, but I also wanted to understand the structure of the soil (as it was not included in my test results). North Dakota State University has a nice page that discusses this (Ref. 6), and I performed a soil ribbon test (see Video 1) based on this information. I determined my soil to be medium textured (which is great), but I have seen occasional water pooling on the surface, suggesting that it may be more of a medium-fine. This means adding peat moss, coco coir, or other amendments might improve drainage (and plant hydration) and allow for roots to grow more easily. In the long run, I plan to use compost to enhance the soil structure and nutrients. I filled the bottom of my 10-gallon fabric pots with a ½” of pea stone to allow for drainage (Pic. 3). I then partially filled two 5-gallon buckets with topsoil from near where I will plant (but not in an area the roots will reach). I used a digital scale to measure the amount of fertilizers recommended by the calculator (Pic. 4, 5, and 6) and added it to one of the 5-gallon buckets (see Pic. 7). I mixed the fertilizers into the soil as evenly as possible (Pic. 8 and 9). I then poured a two-inch layer of non-fertilized soil, then peat moss, and then fertilized soil (in a roughly 2:1:1 ratio) and blended them together. I repeated this until the pot was full (getting additional soil as needed), and then I repeated the process for the other three pots. I set the filled fabric pots in my garage (Pic. 10) for two days to allow any upset bugs to flee into my garage instead of my house. I then moved the pots (wrapping them in a contractor garbage bag to prevent making a mess) into the room with the grow light. I placed a board on top of the fabric pots to insulate the plants (in their smaller pots) from the cold soil (Pic. 11). Once the soil in the fabric pots reaches room temperature, I will transplant. (Ref. 1) This video shows the method I used to take a soil sample. I didn’t have a field to test, so I took four samples from the area where I will eventually plant outdoors and blended them together. I then mailed my soil sample off to the lab, and about a week later, I received an email with a PDF of my results (included with my pictures this week). https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N9AwxmFxBwg&t=8s (Ref. 2) This video from the University of Minnesota Extension (many universities have agriculture extensions that can assist you with soil testing and growing information for your area) discusses what to do with your soil testing results: https://youtu.be/HYrkcfE62Pg (Ref. 3) This is a nice article that discusses organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.grow-it-organically.com/npk-fertilizer.html (Ref. 4) This article lists the NPK values of many organic fertilizer solutions: https://www.epicgardening.com/organic-fertilizers/ (Ref. 5) Many websites tout a fertilizer calculator…but this one is hands down the best I have found. If you scroll down to the bottom, you can enter any fertilizer type you want (and the cost, if you want). It will give you the exact blend of multiple fertilizers to solve your nutrient deficiencies (I included a snapshot of the solution I used in my pictures). https://aesl.ces.uga.edu/soil/fertcalc/ (Ref. 6) This is an excellent article that discusses how to evaluate your soil: https://www.ndsu.edu/agriculture/extension/publications/evaluating-preparing-and-amending-lawn-and-garden-soil

This week was a real breeze! She's gaining a ton of weight on the bud sites and she's really growing nicely! She's starting to bud around the flowering sites and really finishing nicely. The formation of bracks and the formation of the buds is my favorite part because that's when you get to see somewhat of the final picture and the time the flower is most colorful! Now the second best part is harvesting the flower for smoking which will be occuring soon! The smell on these girls is very invigorating!! She's putting out a smell of a Apple Tart! You can smell the Apple Strudel right away when you open up the tent! I can't believe how big she's got and how beautiful they are coming along! I have to say that this is one of my favorites to grow and my favorite smelling strain! I also love the way the flowers are stacking on the colas!!! The frost on top of the cola leaves is insane! During the day I drop the humidity down to 45-50% and then at night I raise the humidity up to 60-65% which helps a ton with flower promotion during the flowering stage! Also, I raise the temperature during the day to 80° and at night I lower the temperature to 55°-60° which helps mimic the autumn temperatures that aids a ton in flower production in the flowering stage!!! I'll be stopping the two Apple Strudel Auto's from receiving any synthetic nutrients soon and flushing them once harvest is closer. It will be within the next two weeks or so! I do that because they'll stop taking nutrients in and start to self canabulize as a normal (ending) part of plant life. Then I'll give the two ladies plain pH balanced H20 for the next 2 weeks to flush any and all nutrients out of them. Then three days of darkness. Finally I'll chop them down to hang in my harvesting closet for 7-14 days with a dehumidifier on at 65% humidity. Then I'll place the flower into the trimmer and then into the grove bags for the last step in harvesting! The grove bags will keep the flower at 58-62% humidity. They also help keep the flower fresh longer, the Terpenes fresh, the Terpenes flavors, and from becoming moldy or dried out! I've used both these and the mason jars with boveda humidity packs but to me the grove bags are a must and a go to fail safe!!! All you do is hang your buds upside down at 60/60 or 65/60 for 7-10 days or until the braches snap and make that noise. Thanks and as always stay safe, stay high, and stay blessed!

One of the LCC and the RAK are little runtz, and the other LCC is growing almost twice as tall. They all look pretty healthy, and I am trying hard not to over do it with light intensity. I think in about a week or so they will go into flower.

hello everyone i make a new scrog

hello everyone i make a new scrog

Seems to be going wellm

Seems to be going well. Short and tight plant.

Plant is recovering well from defoliation. No pistles yet but looks like beginning of flowers forming. Going to call this first week of flowers. Plant doesn't seem to be getting any taller this is a genetic issue I think. Going to a different breeder next run. I think they are white label genetics which can be hit or miss.

almost ready for harvest, really fast strain, i love that !

Will update more once dry and then do smoke report!!! But this strain was amazing to grow i love beleaf they have outdone it on this 1. That coverage of teicomes to the smell and look of the buds just amazing. The size of some of these buds is massive like a soda can but 2 of them long just massive. The 2 week of flush is what way brought on the swell and the crazy color just beautiful! From a deap read/ purple to a bright yellow orange to a deep dark almost black purples!!! Love love love yall Have a great time See you soon!!

Stuff looks awesome cant wait to try it. Almost been hanging a week! Will come back for update after days and I do a trim!!

Day 36 of flower and looking great all in all. I’ve been watering her every 2-3 days and watering her about 1.5 gallons of water per watering and alternating between full feeding schedule and cal mag only watering. She’s showing some relatively minor calmag deficiencies on some of the oldest leaves but nothing too bad. I’m guessing she’s needed just a little bit more calmag than I’ve been giving her. I feed with calmag every feeding and give 5 ml per gallon. I’d say around a month or so left although the pistils, calyxes abs trichomes will show me when she’s ready. The smell is one of primarily a citrusy smell mixed with undertones of gas/diesel. Maybe 80% citrus and 20% gas/diesel.