I've been defoliating slowly trying to keep them small due to a house inspection coming up. Once that's out the way I'll put them in bigger pots then switch to flower. They all outgrew the mutated start and are looking good.

Every plant grows differently... i think one is getting ready (No1)? I am not sure maybe couple weeks more?

Hello growmies 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾🌲🌲, 👋 The flowering is in progress This plant is still happy and healthy, Pistil are already turning orange/brown. 💧 Give water each 2/3 days. 1l Water + RQS Easy Plus 1,5l Water + RQS Bio Flo Pack + Sugar Royal PH @6 - Bio Flowering Booster Pack Thicker Flowers 1 ml/l Bigger Flowers 1 ml/l Sweeter Flower 0.5 ml/l - Easy Plus Micronutrients 1 tabs for 6l water 💡Mars Hydro - SP 3000 100% 55 cm. 🔥 Thanks community for follow, likes, comments, always a pleasure 👩‍🌾👨‍🌾💚🌲. Mars Hydro - SP 3000 💡💡 https://www.mars-hydro.com/sp-3000-samsung-lm301b-greenhouse-led-grow-light RQS - Epsilon F1🌲🌲 https://www.royalqueenseeds.com/f1-hybrid-cannabis-seeds/620-epsilon-f1.html

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Moved light closer and added a resin boost tea I’ll do it two more times looks like they like it

144v Lux in tenebris lucet. Aristotle said "It is the mark of an educated mind to be able to entertain a thought without accepting it." Those who are able to refrain from judgement long enough to genuinely research and weigh the evidence from all sides of a given subject are those most likely to arrive at the truth. Those who instantly resort to knee-jerk ridicule and continue to believe whatever they were first taught are those most easily deceived. Very high light intensity can slow vertical growth. She just doesn't want to grow vertically any longer; once the flower is initiated, that goes right out the window. Apical dominance is shattered; you now have every single stem fighting for survival against each other, with none given particular precedence over another. That is some stretch for a week, explosion. Doesn't matter if they are crowded now; there is space up ahead, and plant perception will fill every inch of available space. The divine intelligence that drives plant growth is far more efficient than any canopy I could make or spread myself. No defoliation. Sometimes you just need to give her what she needs to fill the space herself. All I do is guide the initial framework into the desired outcome, keep everything else flowing and in optimal parameters. Fast-growing leaves to have a lighter green color, sometimes appearing almost yellowish-green, because they haven't had time to produce much chlorophyll yet. New leaves are soft and pale, but they will gradually darken and become a deeper green as they mature and are exposed to light. Every morning, new lime green, with the micros supercharged, may be immobilizing nitrogen in the medium, magnesium was creeping in earlier, so I'll try to hold the line and see what progresses. The ratio of sugar leaves to buds is determined by a combination of hormonal signaling, nutrient availability, and genetics. Sugar levels act as a key signaling molecule, with high sugar availability influencing hormones like auxins and cytokinins to promote bud outgrowth, while nutrient deficiencies can limit development. Specific genes also play a critical role in leaf and bud initiation, expansion, and the overall balance of growth. Buds are like balloons! Need lots of pressure to blow up lots of balloons! Sugar balloons! Plant transpiration and turgor pressure are crucial for bud development because turgor pressure provides the cell expansion needed for growth, while transpiration creates a "pull" that draws water and nutrients up through the plant to fuel this process. High turgor pressure is essential for cells to grow and expand, allowing buds to open and young leaves to unfurl. Transpiration maintains this necessary turgor by driving a continuous flow of water from the soil up to the leaves, where it evaporates. No holding back, this is it, 4-5 weeks of all-out war! What we develop now will be all we have for the final 4-5 weeks. The carbon to nitrogen (C:N) ratio indicates how much carbon is in a substance relative to its nitrogen, affecting nitrogen availability in soil through microbial activity. A high C:N ratio (like in straw or corn residue) requires soil microbes to use a significant amount of nitrogen for decomposition, temporarily tying it up and making it unavailable to plants. A low C:N ratio results in a more rapid release of nitrogen for plant use. The carbon-to-sulfur C:S ratio in plant residue determines whether soil microbes will immobilize or mineralize sulfur (S) during decomposition. This affects the availability of sulfate SO42, the primary form of S that plants can absorb. Mineralization is the process by which microbes decompose organic matter and release excess nutrients, like sulfate, into the soil in an inorganic, plant-available form. Immobilization is the reverse process, where microbes absorb inorganic sulfate from the soil to meet their own nutritional needs, making it unavailable to plants. Glucose typically uses more oxygen than sucrose in a medium because it can be metabolized more directly, while sucrose must first be broken down into glucose and fructose, which can involve additional energy costs and a slower overall process. However, the efficiency of oxygen use can vary depending on the specific organism and conditions, as some bacteria, for instance, can use sucrose for a growth advantage under certain circumstances by producing exopolysaccharides that are more efficient at oxygen extrusion. Why glucose is generally more oxygen-efficient: •Glucose is a monosaccharide and can be used directly by many organisms in cellular respiration. •It does not require an initial enzymatic step to break it down before entering the metabolic pathway, unlike sucrose. •Due to its direct use, glucose can lead to a faster rate of oxygen consumption and carbon dioxide production in comparison to sucrose under typical aerobic conditions. Why sucrose might seem to use more oxygen in certain contexts: •When sucrose is metabolized, it is first broken down into glucose and fructose. This initial hydrolysis is an extra step that requires enzymes. •The fructose component is metabolized differently from glucose, and its specific metabolic pathway can affect the overall oxygen demand. •Some organisms may have regulatory mechanisms that lead to a higher initial oxygen demand when switching from glucose to sucrose, especially if the organisms have specific metabolic pathways that are optimized for sucrose. •While glucose may be used faster, sucrose might provide a growth advantage under certain oxygen-limited conditions due to the specific metabolic pathways and products it can generate. Seems my initial concept of sucrose was inaccurate. Really need to study up on all of this in the coming months. Take care. 9 To get the closest possible NPK ratio of 1-3-2 in 5 gallons of water: Add 2 tsp of the 7-4-5 Grow fertilizer Add 3 tsp of the 3-12-12 Bloom fertilizer Calcium can interact negatively with phosphorus and sulfur, add your Cal-Mag supplement to the water first if needed.

All good

Giving the autos their flush now hoping the trichomes will be ready by next week to harvest.

Welcome to my Green House Seed cross Diary. This strain is unreleased to public as of yet. Skipping a few weeks, I was planning to just update. But, I've been hit with hermies on 1/3rd of my plant sadly. I didn't catch a lot of them quick enough and their sacs exploded.. I removed as much growth away from her as I could. Wk 7. Steady growth. Loving her bigger pot. And she started picking up rapid growth. 40-45cm. (No signs of distress or toxs/def). Wk 8.. plant has flipped finally and has came into full on pre flower. She looked fine. I checked her, but clearly not Well enough (No toxs or defs along this week) Wk9. Found a few male pollen sacs and nanners. Isolated as much as I could and put in corner. Was away for a week or so, And came back to fully open pollen sacs, so, all lower part of plant was riddled with sacs. I really didn't want to lose her all. So, I removed the top 1st 2 nodes. And tried documentated as much as I could. All plants looks fine. Have her confined aa much as I can. I stripped everything around the sacs and everything below them is gone now. Seemed to be. Coming into wk 10. Will save that weeks update after I get her through this week. And let's see if she's still standing. Hoping I can save her. Her sister looks fine. But, this plant was so much better. Had lovely big fat colas, or what would have been. I'm gonna do everything I can to try and save as much as possibleGrrrrrrrrr. I cut everything away with a Stanley blade. (Using gloves) and h202 6% 1-5 ratio mix h202/water. And sprayed and wiped it all down. Just need to watch her now.. Thanks to my sponsors, (reps) from marshydro led lights/tents& Green House Seeds. COUPON FOR MARSHYDRO Use code 'ggs', at any official marshydro site for a discount.

Really kicking myself in the ass for not taking cuts of this. Probably some of the better outdoor/greenhouse flower i have produced.

Dropped the 3 seeds in water bath with a little HESI rooting mix, little mycorrhizae. On a heat mat, covered for complete darkness. 24 Hr soak - then seeds moved into own Seed Germinator - Karl’s Bubatz Popper 😂 24 hrs after 22 degrees and 90-95% humidity seeds developed long enough roots to hit the soil. To avoid any chance of damage the cotton pads hit the soil too.

Day 69 (March 6th) Just gave everyone their last watering. I’m going to harvest and wash everything tomorrow night on day 70. I‘m not going to do that whole 48 hours of darkness thing because I didn’t see a difference last time I did it. In fact, it made my plant under watered before drying which caused it to dry too fast. Slurricane and cheese will be washed with h2o2 and the rest will just be rinsed off in warm RO water and hung up. Before and after washing I’m going to go over each branch with a flashlight and make sure there is no dog hair or debris in or on the buds. I will be drying in my spare bathroom (that no one uses!) from hangers. Aiming to keep it around 60-62F and 50-60 RH. Hoping for that 10-12 day dry. I wanted to do a full plant hang but the tent got pretty dirty and I would feel more comfortable just cutting and rinsing everything off branch by branch. I’m going to try my best to keep the full plant intact. Got my humidifier hooked up and running RO water because with tap water it deposits calcium and lime all over the buds and walls. For air flow I’m just indirectly running a small usb fan. I’m not worried about air flow in the bathroom honestly. It stays nice and breezy down there anyway. Got the food grade peroxide and RO water to wash up the slurricane and cheese. Everything except for the cheese and garlic#1 is looking more than done. Trichomes all look pretty well done. Some of them have even burst open. Smells are all super ripe and mature too. Can’t wait to smell each individually in jars. Next week I will recap what went wrong and what I will do differently next time to keep it from happening again. (Day 70F) Just got everything chopped, washed and hanging. The vast majority of the PM was washed out but I can still see very small amounts. When they dry out I can shake the branches a bit to get the rest off. At very least it’s sterile now. There is no question I lost some potency while washing but the amount is negligible for a much cleaner product. I could see lots of dirt and other debris float to the surface of the water after being washed. And no those are not trichomes, those sink to the bottom. I could put that nasty water through a bubble bag and wouldn’t get all that much. Although it probably does remove a lot of the actual trichomes heads. I’ll have to check with the microscope. Everything is rigged up for a nice slow dry. Temp is sitting at 64 and RH is at a nice 60%.

4 weeks in and all is looking stellar! The stacking on the BHB is stunning, while the Cheese is producing some respectable clusters and the OJ is defining up top and needs a bit of a clean underneath. All the others are producing from top to bottom so as long as light penetration is adequate, I'll let them go. BHB#1 has a most interesting aroma and I'm impatient to see her develop! Blueberry Headband (1) from Humboldt Seeds, Cheese (1) and Orange Juice (1) from Dinafem Seeds. https://www.dinafem.org/en/orange-juice/ https://www.dinafem.org/en/blueberry-headband/ https://www.dinafem.org/en/cheese/ Lighting https://www.horticulturelightinggroup.ca/products/260w-qb-v2-led-kit Soil Amendments https://www.gaiagreen.com/product-page/all-purpose-4-4-4 https://www.gaiagreen.com/product-page/glacial-rock-dust https://www.gaiagreen.com/product-page/mineralized-phosphate http://www.seasoil.com/ Worm castings Sunshine Mix #4 Epsom Salts Molasses

Day 22 : Today was repotting day! I prepared my living soil demetheart system, I added terralba products and dynomyco mycorrhizae! I added molasses mixed with reverse osmosis water, elycitor and humic and fulvic acids! my tco is in preparation for 24 hours, I use the tco pack from terralba, to which I add many elements and bacteria Hollywood x white runtz is in great shape! nothing to say Day 28 : Here is the end of week 4, everything is going very well!! I will carry out the topping on day 29 and incorporate the TCO + defoliation!! this variety is very vigorous, very compact and has small internodal spaces! but I have a good feeling, it seems resistant to stress! we will see a few days after the topping

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Day 132 It's been much cooler this week, and the plants are using much less water. I'm wondering whether to harvest it on Tuesday or wait another week. A little rain is forecast, but it should be very light. I thought the buds would get bigger, but that's not happening. The buds are really loaded with big trichomes. Otherwise, I've defoliated to allow the smaller, lower buds to grow bigger.