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@grandeG
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I put many identical photos to see the details, the next I will take them with a camera to make sure you see all the smallest details, it smells of citrus almost like smelling an orange, and the bright orange color and magnificent, it started this week to fill with trichomes, we see with the microscope and when it is ready after washing the cut and I will show you the result, too bad that the smell cannot be felt in a video
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I will make a guess at the males in this bath based of the fast growth and experience. Time will tell I love the progress thus far.
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@DreamIT
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I've already said a lot about this particular plant, but I'm sure I'll have more to say in the future. Try it !!! : 1:😉🦄
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Bueno familia ya finalizamos con el proyecto de las Blue Spider, son una cepa bestial, me sorprendieron para bien La verdad que el secado muy bien 7 días en Malla y a los botes, 50% humedad y 23 grados es la temperatura ambiental que han tenido en el secado. En resumen la cepa es muy fácil de cultivar, Por lo demás de miedo os la recomiendo. Gracias a Agrobeta y Mars hydro , sin ellos este proyecto no sería igual 🙏. Agrobeta: https://www.agrobeta.com/agrobetatiendaonline/36-abonos-canamo Mars hydro: Code discount: EL420 https://www.mars-hydro.com/ Buenos humos 💨
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@Lazuli
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This was grown during cold winter, she drooped at some point in veg and pre flower but still got a good yield.
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Week 3 of flower for Lemon Orange by Greenhouseseedco, Shes been getting daily small defoliations in prep for day 21 (today) Shes staring to put on some size. She got a feed of 7.5g of BioBloom as her last proper feed, likely to feed some extra calcium later in flower. They are all stacking quite nicely with the smaller pheno plant seems to be 3/4days ahead of everyone else.
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These buds are absolutely awesome, very frosty solid dense nugs👍 have been flushing this week as there ready to harvest . Orange pistills cloudy trichomes with some amber's & the clusters have closed up . Will give them 48 hours of darkness before harvest.
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@Roberts
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Deepforest Super auto is doing okay. She is super hungry and in need of a solution change. I will be doing that in the next few days when I have time. Everything is looking good considering the fight with rising ph. Which is the hunger. Thank you Doctor's Choice, Spider Farmer, and Athena nutrition. 🤜🏻🤛🏻🌱🌱🌱 Thank you grow diaries community for the 👇likes👇, follows, comments, and subscriptions on my YouTube channel👇. ❄️🌱🍻 Happy Growing 🌱🌱🌱 https://youtube.com/channel/UCAhN7yRzWLpcaRHhMIQ7X4g.
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Potevo ottenere molto di più sicuramente, ma questa volta ho deciso di impegnarmi poco, e si vede dai scarsi risultati rispetto alle altre volte, l'unico parametro rispettato grazie al timer sono le 12/12 ore buio luce, questa volta ho basato tutto sul basso consumo energetico, sicuramente la prossima volta avrò un miglior equilibrio. Continua a l'esperienza
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@Twizz
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She's 2weeks into flowering at this point. I decided to stop giving her the 'Power roots' nutrients and start giving her 'Green Sensation' because I calculated that she only has 6 weeks untill harvest. I want to stop giving her extra nutrients after 4weeks from now so she has 2weeks to get a propper flush. she look healty and strong. For so far i'm really happy about this Power flower seed i got! Big up to RQS and this fine communitie!
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@PoshGrow
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Welcome to Auto Alaskan Purple Grow by PoshGrow! 🍀 Week #5 2020 August 20th - 27th. General Info: When planted: 2020 July 23th. Week: 5 Days: 28 - 35 Last Update Day: 2020 August 27th. Plants: 5 Alaskan Purple Auto. Equipment: Tent: MarsHydro 1mx1mx2m or 39"x39"x72". Light: HLG 260w V2 Rspec QB Kit. Exhaust: 4" 322 CFM fan + Viper Carbon Filter. Intake: 4" 100 CFM Inline Fan. Oscillating Fan: Lower: 4" Ram Fan. Upper: 9" Voxon Box Fan. Humidifier: Taotronics TT-AH001. Dehumidifier: Pavlit MD750. Soil: NPK soil 40% Compost, 50% Peat Moss, 10% Agroperlite. Pot: 7 gallon Fabric Pot x 5pcs. Nutriens: Fox Farm Trio. PH Correcton: Chemoform pH-Minus Granulat. PH Pen: Cheap Chinese one, I callibrate it every time I use it. Water pump: Digital microscope: cheap Chinese USB X4, 1600X. Comment:
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The new week has started. Right at the beginning I topped plants 1 and 2. Apparently 3 and 4 will follow on Friday. I have now also set the fertilizer to 0.6g per liter. The repotting unfortunately has to wait a day because my mycorrhiza order has not yet arrived. Day 30: The dynomyco mycorrhiza arrived today. So i decided to repot the plants. The picture of the roots confirms my decision. Day 32: I decided to tie down a few leafs. Day 35: After topping you can see in 2 of the 4 plants that new shoots form from the interface. I am happy to see that the small plants have such a growth tendency. The awnings have already overtaken the size of my palm. The plants became 3 times this week 300ml of water with 0,6g/l Hybrid Powderfeeding by Greenhousefeeding.
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I made a new sewing solution for the Candy Bubatz. I didn't use enough CalMg. Now I mixed the water with CalMg to an EC of 0.4 and then added all the other nutrients. I'm at an EC of 1.3 just like Canna says. I added more Rhizotonic because the roots aren't that mature yet.👽
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SUNDAY 4/21: I fed them about 1/3 gallon each today. Switched to Beastie Bloomz and increased terpinator. I inspected them for nanners and found none today. Will take some photos tomorrow- MONDAY: Too busy with life to spend much time in the garden today. TUESDAY: I rearranged and took some photos today. WEDNESDAY: I took some photos and a video. I watered all but one of the C4 hybrids today. Only the best one still needs water..tomorrow- THURSDAY: I watered with about 1/3 gallon and included some terpinator, calimagic, and beastie bloomz. I did a bunch of training on them to get some separation and better light penetration into the lower flowers FRIDAY: I did some more training on them today and I made some improvements to my fresh air a/c intake in the tent that dropped the temp a couple of degrees, and the new dehumidifier is keeping the RH right where I want it..45-50%.👌 This allows the evap cooler to be more effective at cooling as well...above 50% RH and it's basically just a fan..
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Its time to prepare for war. *Blows bagpipe* FISH SH!T THE ORGANIC SOIL CONDITIONER (used twice before and always noticed instantly) Fish Shit is a living product! It provides a complex Microbial profile that includes thousands of different species of bacteria, fungi, and protozoa. This profile is closer to a natural ecosystem than anything you will find on the market. Fish Shit helps release essential oils and terpenes which contribute to the building of a myriad of flavonoids. Flavanoids play a key role in the development of the most potent aromas and tasteful flavors of a plant and its fruit. Fish Shit contains beneficial microorganisms that help plants maximize nutrient uptake. It does this by transforming nutrients into more usable forms and keeping these nutrients in the soil longer. During photosynthesis plants naturally produce exudates (chemicals that are secreted through their roots). Through these exudates, plants can attract the types of good bacteria that are beneficial to them at different points in their growing cycle. These good bacteria cover the roots and act as a barrier to the invasion of disease-causing organisms that may harm the plant. What Are Enzymes? Before we dive headfirst into how, exactly, enzymes can benefit cannabis plants, it helps to understand a little about what these microscopic proteins do. Essentially, enzymes facilitate chemical reactions. They do so by binding with a substrate and forming or breaking molecular bonds. In this context, the substrate is the molecule upon which an enzyme acts to boost the efficiency of a reaction. •substrate /sŭb′strāt″/ •noun •The material or substance on which an enzyme acts. A surface on which an organism grows or is attached. An underlying layer; a substratum. Enzymes are proteins with complex 3D shapes that feature regions called active sites. When the substrate binds to these active sites, it forms an enzyme-substrate complex that causes a chemical reaction to take place, temporarily changing the structure of the enzyme and ultimately causing molecules to either come together or break apart. As a result, molecular products are released, and the enzyme returns to its original shape. Specific enzymes are capable of binding with certain substrates, as the substrate fits into the active site more or less via a lock-and-key principle. Although, new research suggests a more accurate theory of "induced fit", in which enzymes and substrates undergo structural changes to facilitate the reaction. If you take the human body as an example, we have an abundance of enzymes in our saliva and digestive system. These molecules bind with substrates in these regions (food particles), working to break down the food we eat into usable parts before converting them to energy. Enzymes in cannabis work in a similar way to the example highlighted above. Typically, enzymes occur in soil naturally, but if your soil mix is lacking organic material, or you're growing hydroponically, then adding enzymes directly to the substrate is crucial. By using them in cannabis growing, enzymes not only help break down essential nutrients into smaller, more readily available pieces, but they also support the digestion of dead root cells, clearing a direct path for nutrients. Overall, enzymes make it easier for your cannabis plants to absorb all the elements they need to reach their full potential. For growers, a plant that reaches its full potential means a bucketload of juicy buds come harvest. This is essential if you want to reuse a pot with old systems left over like mine. Common plant enzymes include: •Cellulase •Xylanase •Beta-glucosidase •Hemicellulase •Amidase Amino acids are a crucial, yet basic unit of protein, and they contain an amino group and a carboxylic group. They play an extensive role in the gene expression process, which includes an adjustment of protein functions that facilitate messenger RNA Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are the three main pillars of nutrient solutions and fertilizers, but there are countless other nutrients that your cannabis plants need to produce the best possible harvest. Amino acids are one of them. You may have noticed that amino acids get a lot of attention from bodybuilders and other athletes. That’s because they play a key role in the synthesis of protein, which, as you probably know, is super important for sports recovery and muscle growth. Amino acids are the building blocks of protein and the foundation of both plant and animal life. But what do amino acids do for cannabis? WHY IS PROTEIN IMPORTANT FOR CANNABIS? Just like proteins are important for the human body, they are equally important for the growth and development of plants. For example, proteins help plants: •Facilitate the growth of intracellular plant structures •Promote energy generation •Stimulate metabolic processes •Facilitate the absorption and transportation of nutrients So, where do plants get these vital proteins from? Well, unlike humans, plants can’t source proteins or amino acids from other organisms. Instead, they need to create their own amino acids, and then use these to build protein. That's why gardeners, much like athletes, go wild for amino acid supplements. Amino acids help plants by… • Increasing their production of chlorophyll, which ultimately improves their ability to photosynthesize • Serving as an easily absorbable form of nitrogen • Stimulating the synthesis of key vitamins • Improving their resistance to pests and diseases • Boosting the strength of their cells Amino acids also serve as the precursors to auxins, a group of plant hormones produced in the meristems—the apex of the stems where new leaves and stems are born. Auxins play a key role in the plant, activating genes for plant growth and development by triggering a multitude of vital plant functions. In other words, they determine what its size and architecture will look like. Auxins influence the development of branches, flowers, and roots, and even help to regulate the photoperiod response of the plant. Some amino acids, like cysteine, also work together with antioxidants like glutathione to help cannabis plants deal with oxidative stress, which can be caused by high-intensity lighting, some nutrient solutions, and high levels of CO₂. Unlike humans, plants can synthesize all the amino acids they need to survive and develop properly. Unfortunately, however, amino acid synthesis is a really high-energy process, and plants may struggle to produce enough amino acids when exposed to stress. WHAT FACTORS AFFECT A PLANT’S ABILITY TO SYNTHESISE AMINO ACIDS? Any kind of stress can affect a plant’s ability to produce enough amino acids. This includes: • Drought • Temperature extremes • Poor soil health • Pests • Diseases • Poor lighting • Lack of space • Poor root health WHAT DOES ALL OF THIS MEAN FOR WEED PLANTS? If you want to push your plants to their extreme in terms of floral growth and resin production, you should look into amino acid fertilizers. By making amino acids readily available to your plants, they’ll be able to use crucial energy to grow and bloom, rather than focusing on synthesizing amino acids themselves. Game of Inches, this is another Plants can absorb amino acids via their roots and leaves. They can also benefit from amino acids during both their vegetative and flowering phases. The fastest way for plants to absorb amino acids is via their leaves. The foliar application of amino acids is believed to improve the transportation of nutrients, increase transpiration, and boost photosynthesis. Hence, I recommend feeding your plants with foliar amino acid fertilizers. When doing so, however, carefully measure the amount of fertilizer you use, as—like with any nutrient—overfeeding can damage your plants. FOLIAR FEED AND SOIL SOAK • 1 crushed queen anne carrot • Add 2 tbsp of NPK Raw powdered water-soluble cane molasses • 20ml h2o2 • 1 crushed radish • 0.25 tsp NPK Enzymes • 0.25 tsp NPK Amino Acids • 50ml coconut water ( nature's own amniotic fluid packed with amino, enzymes ) + The sound of songbirds. Onto the predators 1250 -Green Lacewings Lacewings are extremely voracious predatory insects that feed on several pests. In adulthood, it feeds on pollen and nectar. In the larval stage, it feeds on aphids, thrips, and mealybugs at all stages of growth. It can also attack spider mites in moderate quantities. It is initially an aphid predator, but very effectively controls thrips and mealybugs infestations. It is so voracious that in the absence of prey, it will feed on its congeners. Lacewings are cannibalistic if there is no food available for them. It is therefore important to introduce them into an infestation situation, and not just preventively. •congener /kŏn′jə-nər/ •noun •A member of the same kind, class, or group. •An organism belonging to the same taxonomic genus as another organism. •A thing of the same kind as. or nearly allied to, another; specifically, in botany and zoology, a plant or an animal belonging to the same genus as another or to one nearly allied. Ideal temperature 20°C – 26°C Ideal humidity 60% – 70% Predatory stage life cycle 21 days Introduction rate 4 weeks Storage Refrigerator Use Immediately Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Lacewings are available on small paper cards that you can hang to plant stems. On the cards are dozens of eggs ready to hatch. There are also sterile eggs they can feed on once they have hatched before they are ready to disperse in the foliage. It is important to use them quickly upon receipt to avoid cannibalism. If you don't use them right away, you can store the cards in the refrigerator for 24 to 48 hours to prevent the eggs from hatching too quickly. Avoid storing them for longer than this or you risk losing eggs. 1250 eggs are divided into 7.5 cards, 2500 eggs on 15 cards, and 5000 on 30 cards. The application rate is one card per square meter of growing surface. Is this predator best used for preventive or curative treatments? Lacewings are used as a curative solution. Anything else I should know? Lacewing eggs hatch approximately 24-72 hours after the cards are exposed to room temperature. When they emerge, the lacewings are just 1.5-2 mm long. They are very small so they are difficult to see. Once hatched, they will stay on the cards for a few hours and then disperse in the foliage. You quickly lose sight of them if you have not witnessed the hatching. They then live in the foliage for about 3 weeks. Often, you will see them towards the end of their larval cycle. After feeding for 3 weeks, they will triple and even quadruple in size. At that point, they are easier to see. But they remain very discreet insects, it is not abnormal not to see them. Egg carcasses left behind on the cards do not disappear after the hatching has happened. It's normal to see eggs still on the cards. Visually it is very similar before and after hatching. Also, on the boxes, there are sterile ephestia eggs which are used to feed the lacewings once hatched. Not all lacewing eggs are viable either. Only a certain percentage of lacewing eggs will hatch. Once hatched, the eggs are white. You can observe this using a magnifying glass. With, 5000 Stratiolaelaps Scimitus It is used to prevent or control thrips pupae, fungus gnats larvae, and root mealybugs in the soil. It can also be used for red mites in bird farms or hen houses. The adult is about 1 mm long and is medium brown with a beige triangle on its back. Another fun fact about them is they can survive without prey. They can eat algae and plant debris. This is why they can reproduce and stay in plants for long periods. Ideal temperature 15°C – 23°C Predatory stage life cycle 18 days Introduction rate 2 weeks Storage Room temperature Use Within one week Are there any specific instructions on how to use this predator? Sprinkle directly on the growing media. They can live in all types of substrates like potting soil, coconut fiber, rock wool, cedar mulch, etc. Stratiolaelaps establish easily so they are permanently fighting pests. One introduction is generally enough unless you have an infestation. In this case, introduce them at least twice at a 2-week interval for best results. If you grow your plants in a 100% mineral substrate, it will have to be released more often since there is less organic matter than in traditional soil. Do I need to take any specific precautions? Stratiolaelaps breed in the top layer of the soil. So it is important not to disturb them in the first days following their introduction. They don't like temperatures below 8 ° C. So be sure not to introduce them in a water-saturated or cold environment. Release them 24-48 hours after your last watering. They are very sensitive to chemical acaricides and diatomaceous earth. These methods are incompatible with their use.